VQ35 swap progress !
#43
direct drop in (motor mount wise) with little fabrication
#49
a friend kept the 3.5 pan and used the 3.5 sensor and didnt have to shave anything, just some soldering.
#51
Im not sure what its like on the 3.5 but with the 3.0 a penny fits very nicely in the original screw sleeve. You really have to hammer and warp the penny, but it wont come out. We actually pushed it in further, and put some liquid gasket inside and out.
Nice swap, BTW, good luck!!!
Nice swap, BTW, good luck!!!
#52
Couple questions guys. I noticed on the vq35 this part was missing a sensor, do you reuse the one off of the vq30?.....
Also is this junk, or do you have to re use all these fuel lines ?
Also is this junk, or do you have to re use all these fuel lines ?
#53
And one more question, on the secondary timing sprockets i noticed that the intake cams had dowels that you can slide the sprockets onto, but the exhaust cams didnt have them, so how would you line up the sprocket on the cam? Or am i missing a piece?
#54
junk all those fuel line.
the egr/map etc sensors I saved and plugged back in and tied it off somewhere.
use the 3.0 coolant log (minus all those extra lines)
ninja: the intake sprocket needed the dowel pin relocated. the exhaust cam sprocket just needed the spacer.
the egr/map etc sensors I saved and plugged back in and tied it off somewhere.
use the 3.0 coolant log (minus all those extra lines)
ninja: the intake sprocket needed the dowel pin relocated. the exhaust cam sprocket just needed the spacer.
#56
update: secondary sprockets and chains are one, test fitted the timing chain now im posting pics to make sure that its correct ... One question, how does the exhaust cams move if theres no dowel pin going through the sprocket?
#60
Originally Posted by rome06
One question, how does the exhaust cams move if theres no dowel pin going through the sprocket?
#61
#62
the exhaust cam (3.5) is supposed to have a dowel pin on it. Once you put the spacer on it the dowel pin wont stick out as far as it was before but should be enough to get the sprocket on, and seated. Once its torqued down you'll be fine.
do you still see/have a dowel pin in the 3.5 exhaust cam?
do you still see/have a dowel pin in the 3.5 exhaust cam?
#66
#70
When i tighten this bolt to the inner timing chain cover, the guide moves back and forth freeley when its fully tightened. Should there be a washer or something to fill this gap?
#72
it needs to be able to move right to left AND back and forth? Also when i rotate the whole assembly by the crank bolt, the tensioner pops in and out and the chain has a little bit of slack at the very top where that guide covers it. Should there be any slack in the chain?
#73
Torque it to spec, that's all you need to do. Line everything up then make sure ALL of the slack is on the tensioner side. Since there's no oil pressure at the tensioner it will bob in and out if you turn it. Not a concern.
I would prime the tensioner before putting it back together though. Either submerge it in oil with the plunger out and then insert it while still submerged, or pour oil in the tensioner body.
I would prime the tensioner before putting it back together though. Either submerge it in oil with the plunger out and then insert it while still submerged, or pour oil in the tensioner body.
#74
After the timing chain and tensioner and everything is on, and you rotate the entire assembly by the crank bolt, will the marks on the sprockets ever match up with the marks on the chain along with the yellow link down by the crank ? I rotated it about 4 revolutions and the marks on the sprockets / crank never matched back up with the marks on the chain .
#76
The only part im worried about is how much slack the chain has as some point. Sometimes the chain is tight, and as you keep turning, the tensioner pops in and moves the entire long guide back with it and that gives the chain a lot a slack, but if you keep turning the tensioner will pop back out and push the guide back out and the chain will be nice and tight again. Thats what im worried about, is that supposed to happen? Here are some pics to better understand what im talking about...
#78
I knew what you meant. That's normal. While cranking and running there will be oil pressure at the tensioner so that shouldn't concern you. Don't bother with turning it over by hand a million times either. Just line everything up properly, make sure ALL the slack is on the tensioner side, and close it up. I've done this quite a few times and there's nothing more to it than that.
BTW, in those pictures you're missing two guides. One at the top and one between the water pump and intake sprocket. Make sure those are in before you replace the timing cover.
BTW, in those pictures you're missing two guides. One at the top and one between the water pump and intake sprocket. Make sure those are in before you replace the timing cover.
Last edited by nismology; 01-17-2008 at 10:29 PM.
#79
UPDATE ! about damn time we finally had some time this evening to drop the motor in the car. Hopefully it will be done tomorow, if not deffinetly saturday since i dont work or anything, anyways onto the pics...