idler pulley, belt tensioner assembly
11-30-2010, 08:20 AM
#45
When I first wrote this post years ago, it ended up being part 11927 that was squealing. I bought 11927 (most members would rather buy the whole 11925M bracket) and just left it in my back seat waiting for a day to install it. Well, 11927 blew up on me while I was on the road, not fun. 11927 was a cheap part at Kragen (now O'reilly?) for I think $5, doesn't hurt to try there first if you suspect it's the tensioner.
Dr J
Dr J
11-30-2010, 01:45 PM
#46
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: SLC
Posts: 24
Thanks for the help and the Picture.
It didn't help that I had both belts and the water pump replaced six months ago. Come to find out they broke off my old tensioner...
No more of that shop.
Now the %^&$ing squeal is gone.
time to tackle the suspension
06-02-2011, 11:02 PM
#47
06-03-2011, 01:08 AM
#49
08-07-2011, 08:27 AM
#50
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 291
Is it me or is that Courtesy diagram have the washer on the wrong side of the bracket? I put mine back together according to the diagram and still have a washer left over (about the size of a quarter). Wonder if that's why it was rattling...
08-07-2011, 11:53 AM
#51
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 371
i think u r correct. fighting with mine now.
on edit: Yes, the diagram is wrong. the first spacer (the smaller one) goes between the bracket and the adjuster arm, then the larger spacer.
on edit: Yes, the diagram is wrong. the first spacer (the smaller one) goes between the bracket and the adjuster arm, then the larger spacer.
Last edited by sparky1562; 08-07-2011 at 01:25 PM.
09-10-2011, 03:47 PM
#53
18-23 ft lbs per the FSM, but 'tight' is all that's needed; the torque on those bolts isn't of critical importance, just use your own judgement. Tight enough that they don't fall out, but not so tight that you pull the threads out of the timing cover.
Last edited by pmohr; 09-10-2011 at 03:51 PM.
10-09-2011, 09:21 PM
#59
If you do pull it apart, or for when you replace the pulley, just be sure to note the position and orientation of the washers/spacers.
The factory bearing is an NSK 6301DULX, cross references with SKF 6301-2RS1. $2.49 the first place I came across - http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/6301-2RS-Bearing
Last edited by pmohr; 10-09-2011 at 09:30 PM.
10-10-2011, 04:39 PM
#60
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 291
No need to go to dealer. New Dayco pulley is only $22 and has a sealed bearing (no need to put the dust shield back on) Amazon
They have decent prices on belts too if you need to go over $25 to get free shipping (would be a good time to replace alternator belt).
They have decent prices on belts too if you need to go over $25 to get free shipping (would be a good time to replace alternator belt).
05-17-2012, 09:57 AM
#62
05-17-2012, 10:29 AM
#63
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 366
the only important parts are the washers and the spacer washer in the rear. The slightly curved dust cover only keeps the bearing free of grit and dirt longer. like the above poster said, its not needed to function. Good idea maybe, to pick up one from a junk yard as one of those "oh by the way I needed that" pieces. You should be fine with what you recovered though.
By the way I always find it easier to raise that side and shimmy under the tire and work from beneath. More room to work the wrench
By the way I always find it easier to raise that side and shimmy under the tire and work from beneath. More room to work the wrench
05-17-2012, 11:20 AM
#64
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 26
I might add, however, that if the pulley blew off, it is most likely due to the bearing going out, since the direction of rotation is counter-clockwise, it actually causes torque to unscrew the bolt when the bearings start to seize up. This shouldn't happen with a good bearing unless the bolt was not tightened. Unless you replaced it recently, I would recommend checking the pulley to make sure it spins freely and smoothly and replacing it if necessary. Otherwise it's likely to blow off again. I'd check with the dealer for a new pulley; the part is superior quality and I believe it came with all the dust covers and other things, and I don't remember it being that much more expensive than the NAPA part. Although I had to do my other Maxima recently and I remember the non-dealer part actually being metal this time instead of plastic, so that may have changed.
05-17-2012, 11:35 AM
#65
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 366
^^^ good points. When I had a squeal issue I knew it was the belts not having any tension on them. I snapped the adjustor rod in half because it has seized.
In the process of research, O'Reilly's had an OEM pulley that was cast metal with a nice smooth quiet bearing. I did check the bearing on mine to make sure the pulley was good. (I used to be an avid skateboarder so I know all about the results of bad or broken bearings, lol) All I needed to get was a new adjustor rod, junkyard for the win. There were some good pulleys in there too.
In the process of research, O'Reilly's had an OEM pulley that was cast metal with a nice smooth quiet bearing. I did check the bearing on mine to make sure the pulley was good. (I used to be an avid skateboarder so I know all about the results of bad or broken bearings, lol) All I needed to get was a new adjustor rod, junkyard for the win. There were some good pulleys in there too.
05-17-2012, 04:23 PM
#66
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 76
OK guys, I went to the junkyard and pulled apart the pully. The guy was so nice not to charge me for the parts I needed. I was able to put the everything back together without raising the car at all. Just slid underneath the passenger side of the car and half hour later bam. It only took that long because the pulley wouldn't stop spinning. If anyone is close to Millerstown Pa. I would suggest going there, I will be going back to get the dreadful bose speaker and amp. Had about 10-12 Nissan Maximas there.
Last edited by Jaidon05; 05-17-2012 at 05:54 PM.
05-18-2012, 07:25 AM
#67
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 366
yeah about half hour is right if you replaced it all. And it kinda sounds like it was your first time messing with that piece. Easy fix right? but so essential to getting your bidness in working order. Glad to hear you got it all running again. Good Job!
05-18-2012, 06:12 PM
#68
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 76
Yes, it was my first time tinkering with it.
06-04-2012, 07:43 AM
#70
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 366
You have some options. If you are daring and have a second vehicle to take you to a junkyard or shop, you can try a breaker bar and a deep socket 14mm on the adjustor to try and knock it loose. BE WARNED I TORQUED MY ADJUSTOR ROD IN HALF THIS WAY, thus the junkyard trip.
Easiest fix is just run with the squeal to the junkyard in the first place and get the whole assembly for less than 10 bucks and replace it safely and comfortably at your home. This way you can be sure that your bolt moves and trully tightens and loosens.
!!!ALSO CHECK YOUR PULLEY BEARINGS WHILE YOU GOT EVERYTHING OFF IN ORDER TO RULE OUT THAT AS A SOURCE OF THE SOUND!!!
06-04-2012, 09:12 AM
#71
06-04-2012, 09:30 AM
#72
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 366
The most important part! 
01-12-2013, 07:27 AM
#74
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 3,883
Alright, great news... I was able to recover all the pieces. Tuesday I heard a metallic friction noise, so Wed I placed an order @ Kragens. Picked it up Fri night just before my 250mi road trip. Well, just past midnight, I pull off at my exit, downshift to 4th, and heard a clunk followed by massive metallic noise... I knew the pulley bearing was shot. Plus, Battery and brake lights came on, telling me alternator wasn't running.
Luckily I pull into a Bar/restaurant parkinglot and as I roll past Security, the rest of my pulley falls out. I casually park in the back, assess the damage, and notice I'm missing the nut. Luckily, security picked up my pulley, washer, and nut. This morn I head back and swap in the new pulley and belts and I'm golden. Woop!
209k miles... slowly, seems like everything will eventually fail.
Jae
Luckily I pull into a Bar/restaurant parkinglot and as I roll past Security, the rest of my pulley falls out. I casually park in the back, assess the damage, and notice I'm missing the nut. Luckily, security picked up my pulley, washer, and nut. This morn I head back and swap in the new pulley and belts and I'm golden. Woop!
209k miles... slowly, seems like everything will eventually fail.
Jae
09-11-2014, 01:16 PM
#76
Both the idler pulley nut and the tensioner rod nut are turned counter-clockwise for loosening. Loosen the idler pulley nut first.
09-11-2014, 01:27 PM
#77
OK so I had already loosened the pully adjuster nut before I loosened the nut on the pully itself . for some reason the nut would not loosen and is now rounded and stripped pretty badly any suggestion on what I should do?
09-11-2014, 01:55 PM
#78
You stripped the tensioner rod nut because the idle pulley nut wasn't loosened first. Try vice grips on the tensioner rod nut. If it still won't loosen then replace it. The PNs are listed in this thread that you'll have to read yourself.
09-11-2014, 02:11 PM
#79
No I stripped the nut on the front of the pully itself . the tensioner rod nut is actually in good condition considering the miles on the car. Should I have the tensioner nut tight or loose to try and go at the pully nut or does it not matter
09-11-2014, 04:38 PM
#80
I would reverse what you've done, meaning, tighten the belt using the brass tensioner nut up top to try to get it back to where it was before you started this whole procedure. Then go for the pulley nut down below. Maybe blast it first with some MAP gas if possible. Be sure you use a 6 pt wrench vs a 12 pt. If you get it loose, you're home free. Loosen the belt again from up top.