Mike Cline

My 95 GLE has a lot or rear road noise above 50mph. Is there any way to make it quieter. There use to be spray insulation in a can you could spray under the wheel wells to deaden the sound. Does it still exist, if so where can I get it? Thanks!

thanjp

The only thing I can think of are Dynamats which you can cut to fit whatever shape and then apply. You are probably talking about NoiseBlocker. It comes in a 1 liter can and you attach it to a spray gun and it is a convenient way to cut down on road and engine noise. Both of these products are found in the Crutchfield magazine, and most likely on their website.

maxrules

My 95 GLE has the same problem. Check and see if yours has the same fix for it as mine does. On the dash, there's a little plate that says "BOSE" and somewhere to the left of it there's a little round ****. Turn that **** to the right and see if that fixes it. If not, check to see that the little pushbutton adjuster marked "bass" is also turned fully clockwise. Worked for me!

-kev

PS - If that method doesn't work all the time, try the dynamat mentioned below. Method 1 has never failed me, though!

ny96max

go to Pep Boys and buy dynamat or super dynamat by the roll. Its like $20 for one roll, i used up two rolls on the floor of my trunk. I got rid of all the annoying road noise that you hear, like the humming of the road. Helps me especially cause i got a sub in the back and it resonates everthing....

chris j vurnis

The rear road noise can be attributed to the alignment angles of the rear tires... The fixed solid axle sets up the rear camber at about -1.2 degrees negative camber and the toe-in angles can be several thousands... The non-adjustable and high toe-in angle is what makes the lower pitched humming sounds and the camber angle helps create the higher pitched howling... Throw in more rigid Z rated tires and the problems are compounded..

You can try one of three things:

1. Remachine the solid axle to attain angles outside the OEM specs that will produce quieter operation... this could be rather expensive and I don't know any shops that could do this work...

2. Try sound deadening materials... The human ear is logarithmic in response (something most "sound insulation" adverstisements don't tell you)... So acoustical energy must typically be reduced by a factor of 10X (10dB) to be perceived by the ear as 1/2 volume. Dynamat will give you maybe at best a 3dB reduction in sound transmission for one layer of standard grade dynamat... To get appreciable sound transmission reductions, you will need 4 to 6 layers of the higher grades of dynamat all along the floor and trunk of the car and perhaps from the floor of the car up to the top of the rear deck... With the cost of dynamat and professional labor, this may cost you well over $1,000 dollars... maybe a couple thousand.

Dynamat is primarily used for vibration reduction (for rattles, squeaks, etc..) it is not that efficient at sound transmission reduction.

3. Buy a car with independent rear suspension with adjustable camber and toe angles...


"NY96MAXSE" posts that he got rid of much of the road noise with 2 layers just in the trunk... I have about 2 layers in my trunk but all I have reduced is large acoustical resonance from my subwoofer... the road noise is still there... The bottom of the trunk is not that solid... You can give it a good thud with your fist and hear it resonate low frequecies for several seconds... Could be that the thin and non-rigid trunk floor is how the sound is permeating into the car...

cjv

cjv

VQ Quick

option#2 - the tire and alignment gizmo will work.

option#3 - the Bose Idea was classic. works on all types of cars too.

option#4 -If the Camry (or likeable alt) is a stretch then just go trade it in on whatever awsome car you used to drive that didn't make noise.

Option#5 - Was to quite reading this post a long time ago. It is obvious I have nothing of value to contribute.

Kevin Wong

Hi,
My 97 SE had a mishap in Las Vegas during summer break. I had to replace a the transmission rod after hitting a big concrete block in the driveway of a Mcdonald's. In the end, I left the car at a Nissan Specialist for a week. He spent 11 hours taking out and replacing the transmission components. In the end, he did a lot of other work for free. He changed my front wheel bearings, lubed up the suspension and stuff, and now my car is just as quiet as it was when i first test drove it.

By the way, my car is not lowered, I think it's rather high, but the concrete block still won.

kingpin

Yo man, you might wanna check your rear wheel bearings...that was the problem with my max...

mikee72

iTrader: (2)

Bringing this back from the dead, hoping someone has new info, or before/after dB measurements from sound deadening projects. Oddly, it seems like the greatest source of noise in my mom's '96 GXE (bone stock) is wind noise from the tops of the doors. Is this normal? I haven't done any dB meter testing, but this car *seems* to be noisier than her 180,000 mile '93 NT DSM at 60 MPH. (And that car is a POS)