Houston...We have a problem (core support rust - pt.2)
09-25-2008, 07:09 PM
#43
The part number of the lower rad support?
The actual part number is not listed on this site, but the part is, and the price is great. It's $129, and it is an OEM nissan part. It's #5 in the illustration.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...=5&catalogid=2
I'd recommend ordering from them - They got my heater core to me in like a week.
Also on topic, I actually looked under my car yesterday, and the "weld in" fix that I paid $200 for in January has broken already
. The crossmember looks like it's barely hanging on - the metal that they welded in has ripped off from the support. So, I'll probably be ordering a new support sometime in the near future and going to a different shop for installation. I've just about had it with this place that rebuilt my car! 
The actual part number is not listed on this site, but the part is, and the price is great. It's $129, and it is an OEM nissan part. It's #5 in the illustration.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...=5&catalogid=2
I'd recommend ordering from them - They got my heater core to me in like a week.
Also on topic, I actually looked under my car yesterday, and the "weld in" fix that I paid $200 for in January has broken already
. The crossmember looks like it's barely hanging on - the metal that they welded in has ripped off from the support. So, I'll probably be ordering a new support sometime in the near future and going to a different shop for installation. I've just about had it with this place that rebuilt my car!
09-25-2008, 07:17 PM
#44
my crossmember is hanging completly of the support been running like this for over 1 month(have no choice) so need to do this asap so far the only thing i notice is whenever i take a hard corner it makes a noise other than that nothing else but i'm afraid one day the engine may fell off the car(not really)
09-25-2008, 08:09 PM
#46
I had my core support replaced a year ago. I'm thinking these may be rusting from the inside out, water/salt gets into the hollow core and cannot get out. So rustproofing the outside may not help much. That would mean that the problem is a Nissan design issue and not just weather related.
03-19-2009, 10:38 AM
#48
06-13-2009, 02:14 PM
#51
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: New Haven, CT
Posts: 481
The part number of the lower rad support?
The actual part number is not listed on this site, but the part is, and the price is great. It's $129, and it is an OEM nissan part. It's #5 in the illustration.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...=5&catalogid=2
I'd recommend ordering from them - They got my heater core to me in like a week.
Also on topic, I actually looked under my car yesterday, and the "weld in" fix that I paid $200 for in January has broken already. The crossmember looks like it's barely hanging on - the metal that they welded in has ripped off from the support. So, I'll probably be ordering a new support sometime in the near future and going to a different shop for installation. I've just about had it with this place that rebuilt my car!
The actual part number is not listed on this site, but the part is, and the price is great. It's $129, and it is an OEM nissan part. It's #5 in the illustration.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...=5&catalogid=2
I'd recommend ordering from them - They got my heater core to me in like a week.
Also on topic, I actually looked under my car yesterday, and the "weld in" fix that I paid $200 for in January has broken already
. The crossmember looks like it's barely hanging on - the metal that they welded in has ripped off from the support. So, I'll probably be ordering a new support sometime in the near future and going to a different shop for installation. I've just about had it with this place that rebuilt my car!
11-01-2009, 03:36 PM
#52
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 4
I'm in the process of replacing the radiator support in a 97 Altima, and it looks very similar to this write-up. I have the piece off of the car (used Blair spot weld cutters) and will hire a welder to weld it back in. How do you guys recommend welding this, is there something I should look for to make sure it is done right? The original was spot welded, and I read somewhere that plug welds would be the best way to go, however I did not drill all the way through the backing piece (since I used the spot weld cutters) so there is no way that I can see to make a plug weld. Should I go ahead and drill through the backing metal so that the welder can make plug welds, or can the piece be welded along the sides, or some other way?
11-01-2009, 03:40 PM
#53
I'm in the process of replacing the radiator support in a 97 Altima, and it looks very similar to this write-up. I have the piece off of the car (used Blair spot weld cutters) and will hire a welder to weld it back in. How do you guys recommend welding this, is there something I should look for to make sure it is done right? The original was spot welded, and I read somewhere that plug welds would be the best way to go, however I did not drill all the way through the backing piece (since I used the spot weld cutters) so there is no way that I can see to make a plug weld. Should I go ahead and drill through the backing metal so that the welder can make plug welds, or can the piece be welded along the sides, or some other way?
11-01-2009, 04:08 PM
#54
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 4
Great! Thanks for the reply, I'll do that. In retrospect, I probably should have used a heavier touch with the spot weld cutter.
matrix1229: Not sure it's still needed, but courtesyparts.com has the crossmember bolts listed under Engine Mechanical->112 Engine & Transmission Mounting
matrix1229: Not sure it's still needed, but courtesyparts.com has the crossmember bolts listed under Engine Mechanical->112 Engine & Transmission Mounting
11-01-2009, 07:51 PM
#55
Great! Thanks for the reply, I'll do that. In retrospect, I probably should have used a heavier touch with the spot weld cutter.
matrix1229: Not sure it's still needed, but courtesyparts.com has the crossmember bolts listed under Engine Mechanical->112 Engine & Transmission Mounting
matrix1229: Not sure it's still needed, but courtesyparts.com has the crossmember bolts listed under Engine Mechanical->112 Engine & Transmission Mounting
spot weld cutters suck. next time(if there is)grind off the panel you want to replace(with a cut off wheel), so you dont damage the panel underneath. if you cant reach it that way i use a drill bit that i ground down to have less taper, this way the damage to the base panel is minimal. at work we weld replacement panels with a resistance spot welder, doing it that way makes most repairs undetectible.
11-01-2009, 08:10 PM
#56
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 4
Thanks shavedmax, wish I had known that earlier today. I am thinking of drilling all the way through the underlying panel where the spot welds were (like the pictures earlier in this thread) and then plug welding through from the underlying panel to the new replacement support in front. I'm not sure there is enough room to get in there to weld. The underlying panel is already chewed up a bit from the spot weld cutter, so I thought this might be better structurally. What do you think is best at this point?
Also, is the paint that is on the factory replacement support (Nissan OEM) weldable, or do I need to strip the paint off the areas needing to be welded? If so, should I spray some weld thru on the inside sections of the panel that will be welded so that they won't rust from the inside out?
Also, is the paint that is on the factory replacement support (Nissan OEM) weldable, or do I need to strip the paint off the areas needing to be welded? If so, should I spray some weld thru on the inside sections of the panel that will be welded so that they won't rust from the inside out?
11-02-2009, 05:00 PM
#57
Thanks shavedmax, wish I had known that earlier today. I am thinking of drilling all the way through the underlying panel where the spot welds were (like the pictures earlier in this thread) and then plug welding through from the underlying panel to the new replacement support in front. I'm not sure there is enough room to get in there to weld. The underlying panel is already chewed up a bit from the spot weld cutter, so I thought this might be better structurally. What do you think is best at this point?
Also, is the paint that is on the factory replacement support (Nissan OEM) weldable, or do I need to strip the paint off the areas needing to be welded? If so, should I spray some weld thru on the inside sections of the panel that will be welded so that they won't rust from the inside out?
Also, is the paint that is on the factory replacement support (Nissan OEM) weldable, or do I need to strip the paint off the areas needing to be welded? If so, should I spray some weld thru on the inside sections of the panel that will be welded so that they won't rust from the inside out?
you have to grind off the oem epoxy coat where it'll be welded, dont take it off everywhere. weld through primers have always inhibited a good weld for me. i just try to coat the seams once i'm done to prevent it from rusting.
good luck
11-02-2009, 05:52 PM
#58
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 4
Thanks once again. It will save the welder's time (and some of my $'s) if the car is ready to weld prior to him arriving.
You're right about the frame rails being inaccessible from the base metal, that didn't really register until I looked at it again tonight. I'll move the welds in this area like you mention. It might be easier to have all the welds from the front because it looks to be a PITA to weld through the base metal while underneath the car. I'll try to get the welder to look at it first to see what he thinks is best.
You're right about the frame rails being inaccessible from the base metal, that didn't really register until I looked at it again tonight. I'll move the welds in this area like you mention. It might be easier to have all the welds from the front because it looks to be a PITA to weld through the base metal while underneath the car. I'll try to get the welder to look at it first to see what he thinks is best.
11-03-2009, 05:04 PM
#59
Thanks once again. It will save the welder's time (and some of my $'s) if the car is ready to weld prior to him arriving.
You're right about the frame rails being inaccessible from the base metal, that didn't really register until I looked at it again tonight. I'll move the welds in this area like you mention. It might be easier to have all the welds from the front because it looks to be a PITA to weld through the base metal while underneath the car. I'll try to get the welder to look at it first to see what he thinks is best.
You're right about the frame rails being inaccessible from the base metal, that didn't really register until I looked at it again tonight. I'll move the welds in this area like you mention. It might be easier to have all the welds from the front because it looks to be a PITA to weld through the base metal while underneath the car. I'll try to get the welder to look at it first to see what he thinks is best.
sounds good. should be back to new soon enough
11-21-2009, 08:39 PM
#60
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Poughkeepsie, NY
Posts: 1,424
I always wondered why these things had to be welded back on; couldn't you bolt it up once you get the original out of there? Is the part too thin at the ends to take to bolting?
From my understanding, it's not a very critical part as far as the structural stability of the car, and being able to bolt it up would eliminate the need for a welder. Most people don't have welders and would be daunted when facing this task because they lack welding equipment and experience. /shrug
From my understanding, it's not a very critical part as far as the structural stability of the car, and being able to bolt it up would eliminate the need for a welder. Most people don't have welders and would be daunted when facing this task because they lack welding equipment and experience. /shrug
11-22-2009, 09:20 AM
#61
I always wondered why these things had to be welded back on; couldn't you bolt it up once you get the original out of there? Is the part too thin at the ends to take to bolting?
From my understanding, it's not a very critical part as far as the structural stability of the car, and being able to bolt it up would eliminate the need for a welder. Most people don't have welders and would be daunted when facing this task because they lack welding equipment and experience. /shrug
From my understanding, it's not a very critical part as far as the structural stability of the car, and being able to bolt it up would eliminate the need for a welder. Most people don't have welders and would be daunted when facing this task because they lack welding equipment and experience. /shrug
1st off this repair isnt a beginner repair, even if you are mechanically inclined it isnt a simple job. can it be rigged up without much knowledge/experience, yes. but to make it as safe as it was before takes more than that.
2nd, how is it not a structural part of the car? the engine crossmember bolts to and supports the weight of the engine and transmission, not to mention the movement it makes through shifting. it ties the frame rails together, this way in the event of an accident the energy of the collision could be transfered from one side to the other.
the metal is 20 gauge on the crossmember side and maybe 16 ga on the frame side. not nearly thick enough to drill into with a screw and hope it would hold and you dont have access to the back side to bolt it together properly. it's not that expensive of a repair that i would jepordize my safety not to do it right.
11-23-2009, 12:02 PM
#62
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Poughkeepsie, NY
Posts: 1,424
2nd, how is it not a structural part of the car? the engine crossmember bolts to and supports the weight of the engine and transmission, not to mention the movement it makes through shifting. it ties the frame rails together, this way in the event of an accident the energy of the collision could be transfered from one side to the other.
The second impression that it was non-structural was from...you:
Originally Posted by shavedmax Quotes
the reason they changed the support to plastic is because it's not an integral part of the strength of the car
...
and i havent seen any that was in an accident that was negatively affected by that being rusted(i work in the collision industry so i see plenty of wrecked cars) the bumper reinforcement keeps the frame rails together and transfers energy better than a piece of sheetmetal ever would.
...
and i havent seen any that was in an accident that was negatively affected by that being rusted(i work in the collision industry so i see plenty of wrecked cars) the bumper reinforcement keeps the frame rails together and transfers energy better than a piece of sheetmetal ever would.
he has a great running car that has some rust on it in a non structural part of the car and he's crying a river. go drive a pinto. if the support ever rots out from the bottom the crossmember sits on the upper part of the lower support, nothing falls out unless you jack the car up, and even then, like 2damizzax said, it had side mounts that hold it in place. i see alot of wrecked cars at work. i'v fixed alot of maximas, none of which i felt that some rust on the lower support compromised the integrity of the car. does it need to be fixed so that the front crossmember has a place to bolt up to, yes. but does everyone have to do it this weekend, no.
the metal is 20 gauge on the crossmember side and maybe 16 ga on the frame side. not nearly thick enough to drill into with a screw and hope it would hold and you dont have access to the back side to bolt it together properly. it's not that expensive of a repair that i would jepordize my safety not to do it right.
11-23-2009, 03:40 PM
#63
if i came across too agressive i apologize. oviously you did your research as those quotes of mine came from other threads.
although i appreciate you listening to me on other threads, you cant take statements i made to certain people out of context. the structural quotes were directed at people's need to feel they should sue nissan for the lower crossmember rotting out. 10 year old car with rust happens, especially when the metal there is as thin as it is. the guy i said the pinto statement to was getting rid of the car because he felt that his frame was falling out. does it suck, yes,but 4th gens are good cars, they just happen to have this weak spot. 3rd gens rust out at the rear wheelwells. mine was destroyed, i never fixed it well, just covered it up, the car never fell appart.
the crossmember sits on the front part of the support. if it's not there, it will put additional strain on the other 3 motor mounts, wearing them out prematurely. will your motor fall out of the car, like someone thought, no. should you let it go forever, no. it is not made of high strength steel, it being rotted out wont make your car break into two pieces in fender bender. if it was there before, and with welds, it should be replaced with welds.
when they engineered the 6th gens they factored in that the support would be plastic. it sandwiches in between the rail and the bumper support. the plastic(or composite) radiator supports dont have anything bolting to the bottom of it. it holds the radiator and condenser. that's it. theres a full engine craddle that holds the engine to the frame rails.it holds the lower control arms and ties both frame rails together.
will you replacing it with bolts be better than not having anything there, yes. will it last, no. the flex of the motor will rip the bolts out eventually. find an .orger in your area with a welder and throw hom a couple of bucks to weld yours back in.
i hope that explination helps.
although i appreciate you listening to me on other threads, you cant take statements i made to certain people out of context. the structural quotes were directed at people's need to feel they should sue nissan for the lower crossmember rotting out. 10 year old car with rust happens, especially when the metal there is as thin as it is. the guy i said the pinto statement to was getting rid of the car because he felt that his frame was falling out. does it suck, yes,but 4th gens are good cars, they just happen to have this weak spot. 3rd gens rust out at the rear wheelwells. mine was destroyed, i never fixed it well, just covered it up, the car never fell appart.
the crossmember sits on the front part of the support. if it's not there, it will put additional strain on the other 3 motor mounts, wearing them out prematurely. will your motor fall out of the car, like someone thought, no. should you let it go forever, no. it is not made of high strength steel, it being rotted out wont make your car break into two pieces in fender bender. if it was there before, and with welds, it should be replaced with welds.
when they engineered the 6th gens they factored in that the support would be plastic. it sandwiches in between the rail and the bumper support. the plastic(or composite) radiator supports dont have anything bolting to the bottom of it. it holds the radiator and condenser. that's it. theres a full engine craddle that holds the engine to the frame rails.it holds the lower control arms and ties both frame rails together.
will you replacing it with bolts be better than not having anything there, yes. will it last, no. the flex of the motor will rip the bolts out eventually. find an .orger in your area with a welder and throw hom a couple of bucks to weld yours back in.
i hope that explination helps.
11-23-2009, 08:30 PM
#64
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Poughkeepsie, NY
Posts: 1,424
After hearing how thick it is on the ends, I have to agree that welding is the way to go. I have a stick welder, but never tried doing a plug weld with it, let alone an overhead/vertical plug weld 
Maybe I'll have one of my dad's friends stop by with their MIG.
Thanks for the explanation!
Maybe I'll have one of my dad's friends stop by with their MIG.
Thanks for the explanation!
Last edited by sryth; 11-23-2009 at 08:46 PM. Reason: Fixed typo
05-05-2013, 05:26 PM
#66
06-06-2013, 04:13 PM
#67
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 16
The part number of the lower radiator support
I just saw that my 96 Maxima 3.0L V6 is also a victim.
Part # NI1225127 is for 1995-1999
Part # NI1225136 is for 2000
Part # NI1225148 is for 2001-2003
All are currently around $52 on Rock Auto.
There's a discount coupon link for Rock Auto here:
http://www.mikeskeys.com/auto.htm
Part # NI1225127 is for 1995-1999
Part # NI1225136 is for 2000
Part # NI1225148 is for 2001-2003
All are currently around $52 on Rock Auto.
There's a discount coupon link for Rock Auto here:
http://www.mikeskeys.com/auto.htm
06-06-2013, 07:08 PM
#68
i just saw that my 96 maxima 3.0l v6 is also a victim.
Part # ni1225127 is for 1995-1999
part # ni1225136 is for 2000
part # ni1225148 is for 2001-2003
all are currently around $52 on rock auto.
There's a discount coupon link for rock auto here:
http://www.mikeskeys.com/auto.htm
Part # ni1225127 is for 1995-1999
part # ni1225136 is for 2000
part # ni1225148 is for 2001-2003
all are currently around $52 on rock auto.
There's a discount coupon link for rock auto here:
http://www.mikeskeys.com/auto.htm
noooooooooooooooooooooo
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
t6378tp
4th Generation Classifieds (1995-1999)
11
09-29-2018 04:27 PM
RWCreative
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
9
09-21-2015 11:01 AM
Hdnseek
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
3
09-09-2015 05:55 AM
sdotcarter
6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008)
2
09-02-2015 09:53 PM