Peebs187

I have a P0446 code and of course it triggers the knock sensor (completely unecessary for an EVAP vent, classic none the less).

I removed the EVAP vent solenoid from the canister and hooked it to a 12V source per NTB00-060. The valve opens and closes the first time as described in the TSB. I then hooked the vent solenoid in to the harness (which the clip broke off of) to see if it would accuate. It would not. A little oxidation was present so I cleaned it off with a mild phosphoric acid solution (both the harness connection and the connection on the valve), then cleaned it with electrical cleaner. Still no accuation of the valve or solenoid. Naturally I hooked a multimeter up to the harness, and it reads 4.3V- 4.4V. I then inserted probe leads in an attempt to flip flop the +/- leads, no accuation.

Is the valve sticking enough that the lower voltage can't move it, but 12V opens and closes it with no problems? In which case I would replace it for $93.00 (nissanpartscheap.com a.ka. Mossey Nissan, CA for OEM parts)

Is the voltage reading from the harness correct?

Any help would be appreciated...

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Im havin the same problem and have posted numerous times with no answers does anyone have any insight? The parts arent cheap to just swap out, escpecially if thats not even the issue.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

EVAP...is a *****, no question about it. See if you can't let it sit in some sort of cleaning solvent for a bit, see if that clears it up any.

Is that voltage with KOEO or KOER?

Peebs187

I am not using a scantool for the voltage reading (I don't think 97's have a diagnostic mode). That is straight from the sensor itself using a digital Ampmeter. I assume it should be 5V but that's a guess. What else could trip a P0446 (Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Malfunction)?

If there is voltage present with the car on acc., logic would tell you the vent solenoid should activate and that the circuit is functioning properly. This code is specific to this part in the EVAP. The only other codes stored are the gdmf KS and back-up light switch. I replaced my gas cap because the previous owner had a Stant on, and I always use OEM caps for obvious reasons. That definitely hasn't changed anything.

Everything leads me to believe I should just replace the solenoid, but I would love to know what the voltage output should be before I do.

Please post the voltage range if it's available to you. Thanks

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Unfortunately I only have the '95 FSM available to me right now. I'd download the '97, but dialup's a ***** and it'd be ready by next Thursday or so. If I had thought, I could've run up to work before they closed at 7.

If you still need to know tomorrow, I can run down there and check out ASIST for the info.

MaximaDvr

My CEL came on today and threw the codes P0325 (knock sensor) and P1447 (EVAP control system/Flow). I've read the knock sensor wont throw the CEL so are these issues possibly related?

I know the knock sensor isn't a big deal to replace, I've read about it even before now, but i have no idea even where the evap can and all that stuff is located. Any ideas?

Peebs187

If it is not to much trouble, I don't have access to that info. It isn't life or death, but I want to get the check engine light off and my acceleration back.

I rechecked the voltage at the harness with the car running and now it reads 9.7V up from 4.9V which I find odd. Every time I check the solenoid with 12V off the battery it operates, when it has 9.7V from the harness it doesn't do anything.

What do your instincts tell you? I guess mine is to replace the $100.00 magnet with the newer design, even though the TSB says it isn't a faulty valve if it works with the 12V source.

A lot of work to figure out an almost meaningless code, which leads to a part that vents vapor from the purge canister to the atmosphere... F-ing EVAP systems, and Nissan's KS faults...talk about overkill, there isn't the slightest chance of knocking from this.

Peebs187

Your Purge canister is located behind the drivers side rear wheel underneath the filler neck for the gas tank (mine is a large black box, 95-96 is a black canister with the EVAP vent control inside the canister). Your code is more generalized and is likely tripped by a pressure reading in the EVAP pressure sensor. That could lead to a number of causes so you may need to start resourcing.

I have had my system looked at by Wayzata Nissan in MN and they are just plain retarted when it comes to things like this. They "couldn't find anything wrong"... more like the tech couldn't find all the bolts he took off, or the clip he broke off the harness. It took me two minutes to find everything wrong with his work and this problem I can't diagnose. I should probably save time and energy by fixing my own car but I lack either sometimes.

In short... Good Luck!!!

I can e-mail the EVAP diagram for my 1997 if you plan on looking in to it yourself.

MaximaDvr

Thanks for you're response. Yeah i definitely plan on looking into this myself since like you said it seems it could be any number of problems, which isn't going to make this easy. It'd be great if you could send me the diagram for your 97 so i can start digging into this. I'll send you a PM with my e-mail.

Peebs187

I would give you all ten pages of my Chilton Manual CD, but it doesn't alow me to copy the text, It has an *** load of information. I'll get that diagram for the EVAP tomorrow for you. Gotta work early why I'm not sure...

JSMax

iTrader: (13)

if you want the factory service manual, send me a pm with your e-mail and I can send it off in numerous e-mails. The file is was too friggen large to e-mail in one shot.

MaximaDvr

I "think" i might have found the problem. I was looking at the little canister that sits right above the throttle body (I read it's part of the EVAP system) and the plastic nozzle in which a hose connects to on the top right portion of the black plastic top on the canister is partially severed. I remember looking at this part not too long ago and all was fine, so I'm thinking this is the problem.

However, I can't for the life of me find what this part is called to try and get a price range for a new one. I guess I'll have to go to the dealer and see if i can get a part number.

I thought about trying to seal the crack up with some kind of epoxy for now just to see what happens in the mean time. So, I'll see how that goes.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

like I said i have the same problem, Im gonna go out and check the 'canister' you mentioned around the TB, but in answer to your voltage Q, I am pretty sure its a direct 12V, but you probably wouldnt have more than 11V back there (likely much less). I'd check the wiring, I had a broken wire when I replaced the VCVBV back there, its pretty exposed to the elements I need to jack the car up and inspect all the wiring again, I wouldnt be surprised to find something again.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Okay, just got back from work and a fun time with the FSM's.

On the 97 UIM, there's the purge voluma control valve mounted right above and behind the TB on two studs (I've got the pre-tapped holes in my '95, but it's back by the trunk I believe). That part number is 14930-9E011, sells at my dealer for $184.08 retail. According to 'nissanpartscheap.com', though, it appears to have been superceded by P/N 14930-9E010 (lists for A33B). My parts guy didn't mention this, so I don't know how true it is.

There's also a purge control valve, mounted on a bracket right behind the throttle body, covering up the PCV valve, that part number is 14931-40401, retails at my dealer for $75.06.

Now for diagnostics. Between terminals 26/27 (Yellow/green, respectively) for the EVAP CPVCV, with engine at idle is 0-.4VDC. Between terminals 110/118 (Green/Black and Blue/Red, respectively), with engine at idle is supposed to be battery voltage.

Unfortunately, I forgot to print out the specifics on P0446, but I do have the P1445/10 08 (MIL) diag data if anyone needs it.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

^^^ good info thanks for the help man much appreciated.

Bufflomike

I read that Nissan is replacing all the 96 and earlier 4th gen canisters drivers side rear tire free of charge since they had an updated version after that. My 96 is sold so you may want to ask a dealer about this.

MaximaDvr

No problem, did you find the same issue?

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

unfourtunately, no, cant see any issue with any hoses/etc. wiring appears good. I'm gonna grab my multimeter from work and check the voltages. Is there any way to test the PVCV and PCV? Also can i just bring the car to any shop to get it vaccuum tested or is it an easy DIY? Ive never done it I want to test that before I tear it all apart.

MaximaDvr

i found this in my searches. Maybe it will be of some use to you. http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

man this is exactly what I need to know good info thanks very much I'm perform these tests/diagnostics this weekend hopefully I can get this issue solved.

MaximaDvr

yep, no problem.

good luck.

nismo-max500

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=0309

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ghlight=recall

a similar topic mentioning that this control valve is a recall? is this true? or only in a very slight case? how can you prove what is a recall and whats not?

thanks

MaximaDvr

^ that sounds interesting

Peebs187

The more I research this problem, the more it leads me to think that I have an issue with a hack mechanic and shoddy workmanship . I am going to run new leads to a new harness connector and see if that will resolve the problem. I will update this thread once I accomplish something.