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Old 05-27-2007, 09:10 AM   #1
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MAF 22680-31u00 97 Max - I am an idiot

In my attempt to see if my air intake sensor was bad, and thinking it was the sensor that goes into the MAF (before I knew it to be the MAF).. i took the 4 phillips screws from the side of the MAF where the sensor attaches and tried to get it to come out..

ok..so what came out was 3 contacts that I presume are soldered inside somewhere ..or more the point.. were soldered inside somewhere. Does anyone have advice to repair this puppy or am I really hosed?

The good news is.. i found what was causing my 0401 error.. someone, and I would suspect the place I took it to to look at my condensor A/C leak...trying to drum up more business, unplugged my air intake sensor... while their expert technician tied up a lift for an hour to tell me what I already knew.. leak in joint of condensor.. I could hang em.

I Plugged the connector for the air intake sensor back in.. reset the ecu and now no engine check light..even after buttoning back the MAF.. I doubt I have it in there so it will last..unsoldered..

I see a handful on EBAY.. couutesyparts has it for $400+ ick.. Wife won't be too happy with me for dorking with things I have no business touching.. but I just had to find that problem.

It's time to buy a manual...
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Old 05-27-2007, 09:12 AM   #2
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so solder it back in...
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Old 05-27-2007, 09:15 AM   #3
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is it that easy ? Can I get inside to see what's what to solder it ? Is there something I need to "rip" apart to get in there or if I take it out, there will be room to work in there ?

I removed the 4 screws holding it to the air filter box.. and the hose clamp on the other end.. it did not just fall apart ...that's for sure.. I must have to use some force to get it out of the down stream end ..

any advice is appreciated..

Steve
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Old 05-27-2007, 09:17 AM   #4
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I would try to solder it back in. Contacts might be too small to solder so you will prob wanna go ahead and start looking for another one. Check ebay and the 4th gen forsale forum.
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Old 05-27-2007, 10:49 AM   #5
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ouch

I would think to solder it back if not just watched the 400 walk out into the next mans pocket
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Old 05-27-2007, 11:39 AM   #6
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Once I remove the hose clamp on the one side of the MAF, (and the 4 bolts).. does it just pull out? Seems firmly attached where the hose clamp is holding it in.
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Old 05-27-2007, 11:51 AM   #7
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Yea just pull it out.
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Old 05-27-2007, 08:33 PM   #8
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If you end up needing one I have two for sale right now $60 shipped each.
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Old 05-27-2007, 08:36 PM   #9
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I also have one for sale, $45 shipped:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=513901

Sorry KRRZ
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Old 07-24-2007, 10:18 AM   #10
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Help, I think I have same issue, need this part, 22680-31U00

Wha'ts up fellow Maixima afficionados

Wondering if you can help, I have a 98 Maxima, and several months ago, getting hesitation, and check engine light, won't go off.

Bring it to my mechanic, put it on his machine, and it says this part is bad. Needs to be replaced, 1000 bucks, 400 bucks third party.

I knew this was a high priced dealer part thing, I have been driving it around, running like crap for months, hopefully it doesn't do too much harm.

I am pretty sure this is the part, goes into the air filter case, has a pink / red label on it, Unisia, Jecs Corp, 22680-31U00.

Is this my problem and where can I find this part cheap, I have seen it here, fro 45-60 bucks, but that was a few months back.
thanks so much in advance.

John
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Old 07-24-2007, 10:57 AM   #11
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Check the 4th gen forsale forums and you will see some forsale.
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Old 07-24-2007, 11:06 AM   #12
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It's possible to reconnect the contacts without soldering. Send a PM to 95blkmax for the details on how he was able to do it. Or you could just buy a used one and be done with it.
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Old 07-24-2007, 11:25 AM   #13
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MAF removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by vtkahns
Once I remove the hose clamp on the one side of the MAF, (and the 4 bolts).. does it just pull out? Seems firmly attached where the hose clamp is holding it in.
there is also a screw on the lower right side holding the air filter hoursing and the vacuum box the MAF goes into, together. make sure you take that screw out before trying to yank it, you break the case bro.

I did mine, it is very easy, when getting the MAF into the vacuum box thing, I put a little bit a vaseline around the rubber flange it goes into... slid right in perfectly - good luck.

check out this video, made it so easy, my 6 yr old could probably do it, if she can reach it... lol

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/4...6f015c3dac.htm

also this video too on the bad solder contacts
http://robfleming.net/mafrepair.html
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Old 07-24-2007, 01:24 PM   #14
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Thanks,

Should I just clean mine as is says in the video, or just get a replacement.

Also, has this solved the problem for you guys, does the engine start running properly, (re-gained power) and does the damn light finally go out on the dashboard.
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Old 07-24-2007, 01:53 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KRRZ350
If you end up needing one I have two for sale right now $60 shipped each.
I'll go down to $50 shipped at this point. Kevgoods@hotmail.com
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Old 07-24-2007, 02:17 PM   #16
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KRRZ350, sent you an email, want one for sure

KRRZ350, sent you an email, want one for sure
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Old 07-24-2007, 02:20 PM   #17
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One more thing.. Any ideas, acid / etching marks black maxima

Any ideas, acid / etching marks black maxima

1998 Maxima, Black, has acid etching marks / spots on all the flat surfaces, hood, roof, trunk.

I was told years ago that wet sanding can get this out of the clear coat, thing is I a m not doing this myself.

I need to find a qualified detailer guy that I can trust to do this here in Los Angeles, and not cost that much.

Any ideas, thanks again and perhaps I can post this is the detailing / paint forum here, maxima.org
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Old 07-24-2007, 02:50 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macguitarman
Any ideas, acid / etching marks black maxima

1998 Maxima, Black, has acid etching marks / spots on all the flat surfaces, hood, roof, trunk.

I was told years ago that wet sanding can get this out of the clear coat, thing is I a m not doing this myself.

I need to find a qualified detailer guy that I can trust to do this here in Los Angeles, and not cost that much.

Any ideas, thanks again and perhaps I can post this is the detailing / paint forum here, maxima.org
.............


Quote:
Originally Posted by KRRZ350
I'll go down to $50 shipped at this point.
www.car.part.com > *

$35 shipped, 20k miles, 3 years, no complaints.
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Old 07-24-2007, 03:43 PM   #19
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Having a hard time finding this part, for $35.00, at car.part.com

exact URL would be great,

thanks
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Old 07-24-2007, 03:46 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macguitarman
Having a hard time finding this part, for $35.00, at car.part.com

exact URL would be great,

thanks
This was 3 or 4 years ago, keep looking if not there are plenty from 45-55. Just buys KR's for 50.
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Old 08-05-2007, 12:54 AM   #21
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So you potentially tried to ruin my sale by quoting a price that you payed 3-4 years ago and clearly was a ridiculously good deal even then? Thanks buddy

Ill do it for $45 shipped, I can't go any lower than that though. Also, I didn't get your e-mail, it might have gone to junk mail or I might have missed it. I will check again, or if you want to go ahead and just paypal me Kevgoods@hotmail.com I will get it out asap, I log into my paypal at least once a day, I log into my hotmail account like once a week.
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Shep stage 3 trans, dsmlink2, lsd rear, Apexi N1 turbo back, SCM Precision 50 trim, Victory FMIC, Kosei K1's, RM sways front & back, AGX's + Eibachs all around, D&S rotors, 1g head w/new valves & ARP studs, insane custom cf hood, and more.......
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