brakes sticking
#1
brakes sticking
ok heres the deal...
replaced front pads, rotors and calipers. I still have sticking issues w/ my brakes. They are rubbing up front and I dont know what else to check. Just to clarify, I know it is the front brakes that are rubbing. any thoughts?
Thanks
replaced front pads, rotors and calipers. I still have sticking issues w/ my brakes. They are rubbing up front and I dont know what else to check. Just to clarify, I know it is the front brakes that are rubbing. any thoughts?
Thanks
#6
1) Verify the caliper slider pins move freely. The grease in these often gets dried out and causes excess pad drag.
2) Brake pads ALWAYS rub on the rotors. There should be no pressure between them, but they will always appear to be in contact, and when you spin the wheel you can feel it. This is normal.
2) Brake pads ALWAYS rub on the rotors. There should be no pressure between them, but they will always appear to be in contact, and when you spin the wheel you can feel it. This is normal.
#7
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
1) Verify the caliper slider pins move freely. The grease in these often gets dried out and causes excess pad drag.
2) Brake pads ALWAYS rub on the rotors. There should be no pressure between them, but they will always appear to be in contact, and when you spin the wheel you can feel it. This is normal.
2) Brake pads ALWAYS rub on the rotors. There should be no pressure between them, but they will always appear to be in contact, and when you spin the wheel you can feel it. This is normal.
My bad yes you are right, but I thought those two pins were there to prevent that. So isn't it bad that the pads are always rubbing the rotor's ? wouldn't the pads die quicker like this ?
i understand thats how nissan designed them but i am not understanding this design.
Also i noticed that before i replaced my front pads the break fluid was a bit down, approximately 1/4 away from FULL level, I assume this is because the caliper is pushing the pads against the rotor and as the pads wear out the caliper pushes just a little more and the fluid goes down. THANK god i never topped it up because when i replaced the pads the fluid was at the exact MAX line. So it is a useful tool to measure when to change your brake pads by looking at the brake fluid level ?
#8
The fluid level is set like that from the dealer. Unfortunately, a bunhc of people keep telling folks to "top up" their brake fluid like it is motor oil. The pads are not rubbing against the rotors all of the time, they are just very close. There may be some minimal contact but not enough to create significant wear. Those springs you were referring to help to minimize that contact when the brakes arent applied but cant be used with certain aftermarket pads.
As for why it is designed that way, braking needs to be immediate, especially when you are dealing with a hydraulic system. If there is a wide gap between the pads and the rotors, then braking response would be drastically reduced (think about how you had to pump your pedal when you changed your pads).
Did you flush yoru fluid? It is often neglected and most people dont realize it is supposed to be clear and not brownish (or god forbid greenish).
As for why it is designed that way, braking needs to be immediate, especially when you are dealing with a hydraulic system. If there is a wide gap between the pads and the rotors, then braking response would be drastically reduced (think about how you had to pump your pedal when you changed your pads).
Did you flush yoru fluid? It is often neglected and most people dont realize it is supposed to be clear and not brownish (or god forbid greenish).
#9
No, i did not flush the fluid, i am afraid to even open the bottle because i dont want to contaminate it.
It is on my to do list though, along with a coolant flush. the thing is that i dont want to flush the coolant because if my thermostat fails i will need to flush the coolant again, so since i just did the brakes i think i rather flush the brake fluid first and then do the coolant.
My coolant looks like crap in the resevoir bottle with weird dirt in it and possibly some other gremlins. The brake fluid through the see through bottle does seem kinda dark its definitely NOT transparent as far as the colour its hard to tell.
What is more important?
It is on my to do list though, along with a coolant flush. the thing is that i dont want to flush the coolant because if my thermostat fails i will need to flush the coolant again, so since i just did the brakes i think i rather flush the brake fluid first and then do the coolant.
My coolant looks like crap in the resevoir bottle with weird dirt in it and possibly some other gremlins. The brake fluid through the see through bottle does seem kinda dark its definitely NOT transparent as far as the colour its hard to tell.
What is more important?
#10
its not a matter of importance. Coolant needs to be changed ASAP if it looks "crappy". If you flush it (or get it flushed) and the thermostat fails, you wont have to flush it again. you simply drain some out, change the thermo and pour the stuff you drained back in.
Brake fluid flush is cheap if you are doing it yourself. all of $5. You will need a helper or you will need to buy a set of speed bleeders.
Brake fluid flush is cheap if you are doing it yourself. all of $5. You will need a helper or you will need to buy a set of speed bleeders.
#11
Alright, im going to get both done next week then after the long weekend, screw this i want my car to be like new.
Just that i have to keep reminding myself that its a 10 year old sedan and things will tend to break down more often then not and that rust is starting to get to it underneath the car not the body yet. So thats what makes me hesitanat to spend more money on this car
Just that i have to keep reminding myself that its a 10 year old sedan and things will tend to break down more often then not and that rust is starting to get to it underneath the car not the body yet. So thats what makes me hesitanat to spend more money on this car
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by 2da mizzax
Did you flush yoru fluid? It is often neglected and most people dont realize it is supposed to be clear and not brownish (or god forbid greenish).
what causes this? I'm assuming contamination, but contaminated with what?
#13
well the whole break burning thing is more than likely its a sticky caliper, because ive had that problem with about 3 of my cars including my max, basically the caliper is pushing out but not pulling back the piston is getting stuck, so yea i would check which wheel has the least pad left on it and thats your bad caliper, replace it, problem solved
#14
Originally Posted by sky jumper
so what is the deal with puke green brake fluid? I've seen this on other cars. a friend's 2k blazer had nasty greenish fluid, so I helped him flush it, and 4 months later it was puke green again.
what causes this? I'm assuming contamination, but contaminated with what?
what causes this? I'm assuming contamination, but contaminated with what?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BPuff57
Advanced Suspension, Chassis, and Braking
33
04-16-2020 05:15 AM
My Coffee
New Member Introductions
15
06-06-2017 02:01 PM
HerpDerp1919
3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994)
2
09-29-2015 02:02 PM