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I have a 97 maxima w/ around 207K on it... i bought a 2006 maxima vq35de to replace my motor. im not machanically inclined enough to do the swap on my own, my uncle is helping me. he is concerned that the 2006 motor is designed to only work with a 2006 ecu. i looked all over the forums and internet but have only found this swap up to a 2004-5 motor... will the 2006 work? now if it will is it better to swap the timing components or get a standalone ECU? i know the Standalone is going to be more expensive but is it worth it? Thanks.
i have a 96 max with 133,000. i need to replace cv axle on both sides, but im not sure if i have gxe, se, or gle. ive searched to find the differences but nothing was really definitive. heres some basics...
cloth interior
auto
no spoiler
im not sure but all a32s have ABS and open diff right??
i just need info so i can buy the right halfaxles
thanks!
Last edited by GrocerySnake; 11-03-2009 at 05:34 PM.
i have a 96 max with 133,000. i need to replace cv axle on both sides, but im not sure if i have gxe, se, or gle. ive searched to find the differences but nothing was really definitive. heres some basics...
cloth interior
auto
no spoiler
secondly, all a32s have ABS and locking diff right??
The 4th gen Maxima was offered in three trim levels for the US market:
GXE "The essential Maxima"
SE "The Sportiest Maxima"
GLE "The luxurious Maxima"
All trim levels have the same engine, so performance differences between them are pretty much nil. The best way to tell which trim level you have is to decode the VIN Plate. This is due to much part swapping and trim upgrading, even transmission swaps that can be done.
TO DECODE THE VIN PLATE:
Raise your hood. Look for a shiny metal identification tag fastened to the passenger side of firewall. The top row is the Vehicle Identification Number, starting with J. The second row is model information. The first five characters are BLHUL. The sixth character is the trim level designator, defined as follows:
E = GXE
G = GLE
V = SE
But the trim level is completely irrelevant to you buying axles.
Secondly no, not all A32s had ABS, and no USDM A32 Maxima had VLSD.
Quote:
Originally Posted by maxima 21
I have a 97 maxima w/ around 207K on it... i bought a 2006 maxima vq35de to replace my motor. im not machanically inclined enough to do the swap on my own, my uncle is helping me. he is concerned that the 2006 motor is designed to only work with a 2006 ecu. i looked all over the forums and internet but have only found this swap up to a 2004-5 motor... will the 2006 work? now if it will is it better to swap the timing components or get a standalone ECU? i know the Standalone is going to be more expensive but is it worth it? Thanks.
How would it be 'designed' to only work with an A34 ECU? The engine is essentially just a bunch of metal and plastic.
Are we to assume that you're doing a hybrid swap, given the question? Are you looking to retain EGR? If so, the A34 VQ35 would be your best bet, as it has external EGR, the A33B doesn't. Of course you could rig something up or just get an A34 UIM, but I digress.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
When pulling codes via the diagnostic screw, they show up numerically. The ECU has no way to determine which is the 'most important'.
i asked b-cuz once in a blue moon a CEL blinks intermediately throws me tons of different codes radomly is it because my TCM is no good? P.s. vss code comes on and off and tranny works fine n so does OD.meter
Last edited by RellMaxima; 11-05-2009 at 08:52 AM.
i asked b-cuz once in a blue moon a CEL blinks intermediately throws me tons of different codes radomly is it because my TCM is no good? P.s. vss code comes on and off and tranny works fine n so does OD.meter
Does it 'blink intermediately' while you're checking the codes, or just when you're driving?
Also note that the diagnostic screw can be used to monitor O2 sensor output, make sure you aren't doing that by accident.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
Does it 'blink intermediately' while you're checking the codes, or just when you're driving?
Also note that the diagnostic screw can be used to monitor O2 sensor output, make sure you aren't doing that by accident.
to answer the first question when im driving and and you plz be more specific about the screw with o2 sensor b-cuz i use the screw method to check codes and the o2 sensor code came one time and went away
to answer the first question when im driving and and you plz be more specific about the screw with o2 sensor b-cuz i use the screw method to check codes and the o2 sensor code came one time and went away
If it's blinking intermittently while you're driving, then it's not flashing codes, it's warning you of a misfire.
And the O2 output monitor has nothing to do with O2 sensor codes. If you perform the same procedure as checking the codes then start the engine without turning the key off first, you'll be seeing the O2 sensor monitor flashing the CEL.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
If it's blinking intermittently while you're driving, then it's not flashing codes, it's warning you of a misfire.
And the O2 output monitor has nothing to do with O2 sensor codes. If you perform the same procedure as checking the codes then start the engine without turning the key off first, you'll be seeing the O2 sensor monitor flashing the CEL.
ooo..OK makes sense but to solve my problem the codes that i have is A/T control unit and plus...10th flash longer than others = Line pressure solenoid circuit is shorted or
disconnected .....but my trany works fine and so does the speedo does this mean i need to swap out my tcm
Last edited by RellMaxima; 11-05-2009 at 09:16 AM.
Hello, first time poster. My son has a 1997 Maxima with 123K on it and an automatic transmission. We just bought it 2 weeks ago. The car has been running excellent but just today something happened. When he tried to start it after school it would start up and instantly stall. He tried this several times with the same result. He called me and I was ready to call AAA when he got the car started. What he did was give it some throttle as he was trying to start it. He told me that the RPMS surged up to around 1500 and then settled down to the normal idle. He then drove the car home which is about 15 miles and the car ran flawless with no problems at all.
Since he is my son and a college student and knows nothing about cars I am now very nervous about him driving the car. Any suggestions on what to look for would be GREATLY appreciated.
There is no check engine light on.
After replacing my drive belts due to a broken tentionizer bolt, I am getting a code for crankshaft position sensor(p0407) and am having a long start(5-10 sec sometimes takes 2 tries before 1 sec). Could this be from too tight\ broken belt or could belts falling off could have damaged the cps?
So after an hour and a half of reading I'm pretty sure it's the rear valve cover but.....I pulled the wheel and lower shroud to look at the FMS, the pulley and belts are not damp or slick at all. On my GA16 the FMS failure threw oil everywhere. It also does not appear that there is fresh oil in that area so the half moon upper pan seal appears intact. I was hoping for the oil pressure sending unit, and that whole area is wet, but it is wet above that also. So more than likely it is that corner of the VC. I need to get the head gasket kit from eBay and read through the procedure about a dozen times. Book time is 3 hours which would put me at 5-6. Clean everything while I'm back there. Did I cover all the bases?
Hello, first time poster. My son has a 1997 Maxima with 123K on it and an automatic transmission. We just bought it 2 weeks ago. The car has been running excellent but just today something happened. When he tried to start it after school it would start up and instantly stall. He tried this several times with the same result. He called me and I was ready to call AAA when he got the car started. What he did was give it some throttle as he was trying to start it. He told me that the RPMS surged up to around 1500 and then settled down to the normal idle. He then drove the car home which is about 15 miles and the car ran flawless with no problems at all.
Since he is my son and a college student and knows nothing about cars I am now very nervous about him driving the car. Any suggestions on what to look for would be GREATLY appreciated.
There is no check engine light on.
Got home last night and took the car to Autozone for the OBD2 scan. Car started up perfectly and drove perfectly. Scan showed knock sensor. I am sure it was triggered because my son has been putting 87 octane in the tank when he should be running at least 91. Anyway... we put 10 gallons of 93 octane in it and some 104 octane booster along with a can of fuel injector cleaner. Car runs fantastic.
I think what happened is this... since he owned the car for 2 weeks he has filled it up with 87 octane at least twice. Because of the low octane it knocked and set off the knock sensor (no check engine light though). The low octane mucked up the MAF sensor and he had the start/instantly stall issue. Its either that or maybe since he had only 1/4 tank of 87 in it at the time he might have sucked up some water from the tank or... maybe the fuel filter needs replacing. I am going to clean the MAF with CRC MAF sensor spray, replace the air filter if it needs it, and the fuel filter.
I am also thinking it could be a week or dying fuel pump but the car has given no indication of any issues at all except for this one time starting issue which seems to have cleared itself up.
Any suggestions??
BTW... I find this forum unusual in not letting me post normally or search threads. It seems that nobody reads this thread so I don't know how to get my post count up to 15. I am a new Maxima owner and at this time I have more questions than answers for the current or new members.
Got home last night and took the car to Autozone for the OBD2 scan. Car started up perfectly and drove perfectly. Scan showed knock sensor. I am sure it was triggered because my son has been putting 87 octane in the tank when he should be running at least 91. Anyway... we put 10 gallons of 93 octane in it and some 104 octane booster along with a can of fuel injector cleaner. Car runs fantastic.
I think what happened is this... since he owned the car for 2 weeks he has filled it up with 87 octane at least twice. Because of the low octane it knocked and set off the knock sensor (no check engine light though). The low octane mucked up the MAF sensor and he had the start/instantly stall issue. Its either that or maybe since he had only 1/4 tank of 87 in it at the time he might have sucked up some water from the tank or... maybe the fuel filter needs replacing. I am going to clean the MAF with CRC MAF sensor spray, replace the air filter if it needs it, and the fuel filter.
I am also thinking it could be a week or dying fuel pump but the car has given no indication of any issues at all except for this one time starting issue which seems to have cleared itself up.
Any suggestions??
BTW... I find this forum unusual in not letting me post normally or search threads. It seems that nobody reads this thread so I don't know how to get my post count up to 15. I am a new Maxima owner and at this time I have more questions than answers for the current or new members.
87 octane didn't "muck up your MAF sensor". No way.
KS doesn't trigger a CEL, no mystery there.
Check the connections at the MAF for what it's worth. My suggestion is to do a full tune up: sparkplugs (NGK's only), fuel filter, PVC valve, clean the IACV, TB, flush and fill the coolant. Hopefully the problem won't come back.
You need 15 posts to start your own thread. This rule keeps spammers away. Your post count is climbing in this thread.
Search is free to all, not sure why you are having issues searching.
__________________
99 Max SE 5 spd, SC'd, MEVI, Cattman Headers, LED tails, R34's with S2000 projectors, 13.1" Brembo BBK, EU.....381 HP/323 TQ
87 octane didn't "muck up your MAF sensor". No way.
KS doesn't trigger a CEL, no mystery there.
Check the connections at the MAF for what it's worth. My suggestion is to do a full tune up: sparkplugs (NGK's only), fuel filter, PVC valve, clean the IACV, TB, flush and fill the coolant. Hopefully the problem won't come back.
You need 15 posts to start your own thread. This rule keeps spammers away. Your post count is climbing in this thread.
Search is free to all, not sure why you are having issues searching.
Thanks for the quick response. I appreciate it. I didn't see the search button... my fault! I plan on doing a complete tune up on it tomorrow. Its a great car. We went from a Supra to this Maxima and my 20 year old son LOVES the car already. I'll check all the connections.
Do you think the KS was triggered by the 87 octane fuel? I cleared it with the scanner. The motor on this car looks new! Its extremely clean.
I am also going to do the drive belts tomorrow because the car gets a belt squeal for a second when it first starts. I tried belt dressing but it only lasts a few days. I would bet the drive belts have never been changed on this car. I searched for a tutorial with no luck. I found an instruction sheet in the how to section and hopefully thats enough instructions.
I am also going to do the oil and plugs. Looks like the oil filter is accessed through the wheel well. Thats a first for me! The plugs don't look too difficult to change out. I didn't know the car had a PCV valve so thanks for that info too!
I am also going to do the drive belts tomorrow because the car gets a belt squeal for a second when it first starts. I tried belt dressing but it only lasts a few days. I would bet the drive belts have never been changed on this car. I searched for a tutorial with no luck.
87 octane didn't "muck up your MAF sensor". No way.
KS doesn't trigger a CEL, no mystery there.
Check the connections at the MAF for what it's worth. My suggestion is to do a full tune up: sparkplugs (NGK's only), fuel filter, PVC valve, clean the IACV, TB, flush and fill the coolant. Hopefully the problem won't come back.
You need 15 posts to start your own thread. This rule keeps spammers away. Your post count is climbing in this thread.
Search is free to all, not sure why you are having issues searching.
One other thing.. if you don't mind.. based on what I posted, does it sound like it could possibly be a fuel pump issue? It has only happened once but it took him 7 tries before it started. It would start and instantly stall. He then stepped on the gas pedal while cranking it and it started and revved to around 1500rpms and stayed there. He put it in gear and started home and at the first stop the motor settled down to its normal 650rpms and ran flawlessly all the way home (15 miles). When I got home from work 4 hours later we took it to get gas and then to Autozone to get scanned. It started and ran flawless every time. My buddy thinks that since it had less than a 1/4 tank in it he might have sucked up a little water from the tank. I am just trying to rule things out. I don't want him to get stuck.
Thanks for the quick response. I appreciate it. I didn't see the search button... my fault! I plan on doing a complete tune up on it tomorrow. Its a great car. We went from a Supra to this Maxima and my 20 year old son LOVES the car already. I'll check all the connections.
Do you think the KS was triggered by the 87 octane fuel? I cleared it with the scanner. The motor on this car looks new! Its extremely clean.
I am also going to do the drive belts tomorrow because the car gets a belt squeal for a second when it first starts. I tried belt dressing but it only lasts a few days. I would bet the drive belts have never been changed on this car. I searched for a tutorial with no luck. I found an instruction sheet in the how to section and hopefully thats enough instructions.
I am also going to do the oil and plugs. Looks like the oil filter is accessed through the wheel well. Thats a first for me! The plugs don't look too difficult to change out. I didn't know the car had a PCV valve so thanks for that info too!
No problem.
Yes, more than likely the 87 octane triggered the KS code.
Main belt is really easy, the PS belt is a little more involved.
Seems like you found this, but here is a good link in case you didn't.
Tip: When you search, use the Advanced search feature, and choose "relevancy" under "Sort results by"
Sounds like you came from a MKIII. Very unreliable car for sure. The Max will treat you well as long as maintenance is peformed per the Owner's manual.
Oh, and don't forget to change the fuel filter too. Fairly easy to do too. Good luck.
__________________
99 Max SE 5 spd, SC'd, MEVI, Cattman Headers, LED tails, R34's with S2000 projectors, 13.1" Brembo BBK, EU.....381 HP/323 TQ
One other thing.. if you don't mind.. based on what I posted, does it sound like it could possibly be a fuel pump issue? It has only happened once but it took him 7 tries before it started. It would start and instantly stall. He then stepped on the gas pedal while cranking it and it started and revved to around 1500rpms and stayed there. He put it in gear and started home and at the first stop the motor settled down to its normal 650rpms and ran flawlessly all the way home (15 miles). When I got home from work 4 hours later we took it to get gas and then to Autozone to get scanned. It started and ran flawless every time. My buddy thinks that since it had less than a 1/4 tank in it he might have sucked up a little water from the tank. I am just trying to rule things out. I don't want him to get stuck.
Could be, but not too likely in my opinion. Have your son take note, that if the problem happens again and he's below 1/4 tank, then it could be the fuel pump strainer that sucks up the gas. It could be higher than the gas level and not sucking up enough gas. Unlikely, but a small possibility, especially if the previous owner tinkered/replaced the fuel pump.
__________________
99 Max SE 5 spd, SC'd, MEVI, Cattman Headers, LED tails, R34's with S2000 projectors, 13.1" Brembo BBK, EU.....381 HP/323 TQ
Update.... tuned the car up today.
1st I did the air filter, PCV valve (it was completely clogged up), plugs, oil and filter and when we went to start it, it did the same exact thing. It would start for a second and stall instantly. I stepped on the gas while it was starting and I was able to get it to run. We then tackled the fuel filter. Got it off and blew inside of it when it was out. It was pretty hard to blow air threw it. When I did gas sprayed out of the other end like it was very restricted. I checked the new fuel filter and I could blow through it with little to no restriction. I installed it and the car started instantly. I tried it several times. Starts evertime. I took the old filter apart and it is extremely mucked up inside. Very very dirty. I can't believe gas even flowed through it. I then did both drive belts and the car seems to be perfect. Hopefully, the clogged fuel filter was the problem.
Update.... tuned the car up today.
1st I did the air filter, PCV valve (it was completely clogged up), plugs, oil and filter and when we went to start it, it did the same exact thing. It would start for a second and stall instantly. I stepped on the gas while it was starting and I was able to get it to run. We then tackled the fuel filter. Got it off and blew inside of it when it was out. It was pretty hard to blow air threw it. When I did gas sprayed out of the other end like it was very restricted. I checked the new fuel filter and I could blow through it with little to no restriction. I installed it and the car started instantly. I tried it several times. Starts evertime. I took the old filter apart and it is extremely mucked up inside. Very very dirty. I can't believe gas even flowed through it. I then did both drive belts and the car seems to be perfect. Hopefully, the clogged fuel filter was the problem.
Great to hear. More than likely your problem was associated with the clogged Fuel filter.
You got a lot done today! Good job. Enjoy.
__________________
99 Max SE 5 spd, SC'd, MEVI, Cattman Headers, LED tails, R34's with S2000 projectors, 13.1" Brembo BBK, EU.....381 HP/323 TQ
Great to hear. More than likely your problem was associated with the clogged Fuel filter.
You got a lot done today! Good job. Enjoy.
Thanks alot. The trick for the power steering belt was the tip that saved the day for me. There was no way no how I was getting that bolt loose behind the power steering pump. I just cut the old belt off and walked the new belt on by turning the crank pully with a large socket wrench.
I was happy to see a restricted fuel filter. At least I identified the problem.
I guess the fuel filter had enough flow to keep the car running but not enough to start it every time. I pulled the #32 fuse and depressurizzed the system before removing the fuel filter and even though it was filled up with gas it was barely coming out of it. I am very hopeful that it was the problem.
I was pulling out the Air box/MAF sensor assembly, and noticed the piece the MAF sensor tubing hooks into has a rubber gasket like that was cracked almost all the way around. Went to both Strauss and Autozone, neither could tell me the exact name but neither carried it (these are inner-city philly locations so not the best people).
I've attached pics, can you tell me the part name and who might carry (chains) it besides the dealer. Philly's transit system is on strike so getting to the dealer out in the burbs or deep south philly is a nightmare right now.
I notice a noise coming from the drive belt. It's a sort of knocking sound that appears when I turn on the heater and goes away with it off. It also looks as if the belt wobbles (near the air conditioner compressor) more with the heater on than off. Also, though my fan kicks on the air the blows through is not hot. Any ideas? Thanks
New member. I have read other posts concerning my problem and tried various fixes with no improvement.
'96 Max SE 5-speed
new computer, cam & crank sensors, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, starter, injectors, spark plugs, ignition switch (not tumbler), you mention it I probably bought a new one.
I did put a new clutch in but had the long crank times before the clutch change.
As the engine cranks it sounds like it is searching for proper timing (the cranking slows then speeds up). It ALWAYS eventually starts, usually blows some black smoke (not heavy). Warm or cold seems to make no difference. Rarely, it starts right up. Any ideas?
ok i have a 97 maxima and it has a factory alarm already installed in it. my question is can i use the alarm without the keyfob? i bought it used and it didnt come with a keyfob and i just dont have the money at this time to buy a keyfob.so if someone can answer me this i would appreciate it.thanks.or if someone possibly has a keyfob that they wouldnt mind giving me(long shot i know) i would get it programmed myself.my crazy x hubby is stalking me and he keeps messing with my car and i would like to know when hes messing with it.so please any info is appreciated!!!!
hey i have a 96 maxima my center muffler broke i wanted to know if i can replace it with a straight pipe... will that effect my nyc inspection? thanx for ur time
So after an hour and a half of reading I'm pretty sure it's the rear valve cover but.....I pulled the wheel and lower shroud to look at the FMS, the pulley and belts are not damp or slick at all. On my GA16 the FMS failure threw oil everywhere. It also does not appear that there is fresh oil in that area so the half moon upper pan seal appears intact. I was hoping for the oil pressure sending unit, and that whole area is wet, but it is wet above that also. So more than likely it is that corner of the VC. I need to get the head gasket kit from eBay and read through the procedure about a dozen times. Book time is 3 hours which would put me at 5-6. Clean everything while I'm back there. Did I cover all the bases?
Could I get someone to give a quick "yeah that's probably it"? As I believe I have stated the four main leaking areas would it be safe to assume rear VC? Are there any other leaks that could be coming from that high on the block?
My sister has s 1999 Maxima, automatic 3.0 that until recently was running perfect for her. She drove it to school and then it wouldn't start when she went to come home.
She's lives down in Norman OK and I live in Tulsa so it took me a while to get there and check it out for her. Anyway the car cranks like a champ and I pulled a coil pack to confirm I was getting spark. Then pulled the fuel line coming from the top of the fuel filter and sprayed some fuel all over the place to check that. So I had fuel and fire but nothing not even a stutter. Just sits there and cranks. My next thought was to change the ECU so I pulled that out of the center dash cradle and brought it back to Tulsa with me. Well after searching and reading on this forum I do remember the "Security" light coming on when I was cranking the car and think maybe I have this dreaded VATS problem.
My question is how does the VATS disable the car? Also when I get it towed to the dealership just I let them know that I believe this is the problem? The one I called in Tulsa didn't seem to know what I was talking about. Thanks in advance.
My sister has s 1999 Maxima, automatic 3.0 that until recently was running perfect for her. She drove it to school and then it wouldn't start when she went to come home.
She's lives down in Norman OK and I live in Tulsa so it took me a while to get there and check it out for her. Anyway the car cranks like a champ and I pulled a coil pack to confirm I was getting spark. Then pulled the fuel line coming from the top of the fuel filter and sprayed some fuel all over the place to check that. So I had fuel and fire but nothing not even a stutter. Just sits there and cranks. My next thought was to change the ECU so I pulled that out of the center dash cradle and brought it back to Tulsa with me. Well after searching and reading on this forum I do remember the "Security" light coming on when I was cranking the car and think maybe I have this dreaded VATS problem.
My question is how does the VATS disable the car? Also when I get it towed to the dealership just I let them know that I believe this is the problem? The one I called in Tulsa didn't seem to know what I was talking about. Thanks in advance.
They probably didn't know what you were talking about because it's NATS, not 'VATS'. Most just call it the immobilizer. It kills the injectors to keep the car from starting.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sfhellwig
Could I get someone to give a quick "yeah that's probably it"? As I believe I have stated the four main leaking areas would it be safe to assume rear VC? Are there any other leaks that could be coming from that high on the block?
Yes, it's most likely the valve cover gasket.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1nemesis
hey i have a 96 maxima my center muffler broke i wanted to know if i can replace it with a straight pipe... will that effect my nyc inspection? thanx for ur time
Shouldn't, but you should call up a NYS inspector to find out for sure.
Quote:
Originally Posted by okiemaxowner
ok i have a 97 maxima and it has a factory alarm already installed in it. my question is can i use the alarm without the keyfob? i bought it used and it didnt come with a keyfob and i just dont have the money at this time to buy a keyfob.so if someone can answer me this i would appreciate it.thanks.or if someone possibly has a keyfob that they wouldnt mind giving me(long shot i know) i would get it programmed myself.my crazy x hubby is stalking me and he keeps messing with my car and i would like to know when hes messing with it.so please any info is appreciated!!!!
Yes, the security system will function just fine without using the keyless entry remote, assuming you lock the doors every time you leave the car.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
They probably didn't know what you were talking about because it's NATS, not 'VATS'. Most just call it the immobilizer. It kills the injectors to keep the car from starting.
Cool, so the car would still crank like a champ then right? Just didn't make since to me at first. I figured if it was the immobilizer it would just keep the car from doing anything at all.
Cool, so the car would still crank like a champ then right? Just didn't make since to me at first. I figured if it was the immobilizer it would just keep the car from doing anything at all.
Correct, it'll crank for as long as you let it, but the injectors won't pulse. The stock security system, on the other hand, does have a starter kill if the alarm is tripped.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
So this is probably the weirdest problem I have ever had with any car, and hopefully someone can shed some light for me on this one. I have a 97 se 150xxx miles, automatic. So I let my girl take the car to go to class today(Not the best of ideas), started fine, ran fine, no problems. She gets out and goes to leave, and the car wont start. The starter doesnt click, doesnt even attempt to turn over. So I go up there to see whats up hoping she didnt ruin my car. So for 2 hours in the rain, I cant get the damn thing to start. Finaly I get this brilliant idea to put it in nuetral and roll it back a few inches, put it in park. It turns over with ease. I had this problem once before and ended up getting it towed, thought it was the starter and replaced it. But come to find out its not. Im pretty lost on this so if anyone has any info, it'd be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
So this is probably the weirdest problem I have ever had with any car, and hopefully someone can shed some light for me on this one. I have a 97 se 150xxx miles, automatic. So I let my girl take the car to go to class today(Not the best of ideas), started fine, ran fine, no problems. She gets out and goes to leave, and the car wont start. The starter doesnt click, doesnt even attempt to turn over. So I go up there to see whats up hoping she didnt ruin my car. So for 2 hours in the rain, I cant get the damn thing to start. Finaly I get this brilliant idea to put it in nuetral and roll it back a few inches, put it in park. It turns over with ease. I had this problem once before and ended up getting it towed, thought it was the starter and replaced it. But come to find out its not. Im pretty lost on this so if anyone has any info, it'd be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Is it a repeatable problem, or did it just happen once?
Did you try moving the shifter around in park? Try starting in neutral?
If it only happens extremely rarely, then diagnosis will be hard; chances are the shifter wasn't all the way in park.
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Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
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Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
Is it a repeatable problem, or did it just happen once?
Did you try moving the shifter around in park? Try starting in neutral?
If it only happens extremely rarely, then diagnosis will be hard; chances are the shifter wasn't all the way in park.
I think it may be the shifter assembly or whatever its called(just a hunch). Because it is a little loose, It wiggles a little bit. But this is the second time in a month I've had this problem. But if i take it out of park, move the car, put it back in park, then try to start it. It starts without a problem. I dont know for sure whether moving the car makes the difference or not, most likely just taking it out of park, then putting it back is what is solving it. but im not sure.
plus...10th flash longer than others = Line pressure solenoid circuit is shorted or 
), started fine, ran fine, no problems. She gets out and goes to leave, and the car wont start. The starter doesnt click, doesnt even attempt to turn over. So I go up there to see whats up hoping she didnt ruin my car. So for 2 hours in the rain, I cant get the damn thing to start. Finaly I get this brilliant idea to put it in nuetral and roll it back a few inches, put it in park. It turns over with ease. I had this problem once before and ended up getting it towed, thought it was the starter and replaced it. But come to find out its not. Im pretty lost on this so if anyone has any info, it'd be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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