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Well I went with what they had, Bosch plat plus. Oddly, whoever last changed them had 3 NGKs in the back and 3 regular Champions in the front. I expected it to run much better after I saw that.
bosch is a bad choice for asian imports. replace them with ngk platinum or iridium. some guys go with coppers - less expensive.
Hi, guys. I've got a problem my gas pedal stick to the top and I have to literally kick it to break it though. It happens whenever I idle on a red light or roll down the hill on a neutral (I have a stick shift) or when I drop the pedal after acceleration about 3500-4000Rpm. I really do not know what it could be. The only guess is the throttle cables need to be changed but I am not sure. What do you guys think? Please help me with this issue.
I know this is covered somewhere but I'm not seeing an answer specific to my issue. I have a 99 Max that developed over time a slight miss in the engine with the related blip on the tac and my mechanic told me to wait until the CEL came on. It did, and I got a code saying cyl 1 was misfiring. I picked up a new plug and coil and put them both in and problem solved. Or so I thought. Since the plug looked fairly well burnt I thought I would go ahead and change the other 5 and it ran good for about 10 minutes or so and darn if it didnt start missing again. Back to the Autozone and they tell me Cyl 5 is misfiring. So, thinking maybe I got something wrong I took it apart again checked the plug and it seemed fine and put it back together. They cleared the code so the light hasnt come back on yet, but it soon will as its missing again like it did before. By the way, it has also been throwing a KS code as well but I felt it was just a ghost over whatever the problem is going on as I understand the KS would not cause the engine to miss. Any help as to what to do next would be appreciated. I hate to keep buying coils if that is not the problem, but I feel like Im playing "musical coils" right now.
Thanks
Rando
99's are notorious for coilpack issues. Sounds like it might be time to just replace them all. The testing procedure for the coilpacks is in the stickies FWIW.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RowzsMax99
Well I went with what they had, Bosch plat plus. Oddly, whoever last changed them had 3 NGKs in the back and 3 regular Champions in the front. I expected it to run much better after I saw that.
Get those outta there. Go with NGK coppers since Autozone etc carry those.
__________________
99 Max SE 5 spd, SC'd, MEVI, Cattman Headers, LED tails, R34's with S2000 projectors, 13.1" Brembo BBK, EU.....381 HP/323 TQ
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
I have a 1997 Maxima SE and the check engine soon light came on. This is what they told me needed to be replaced:
1. Ignition switch
2. Starter motor
3. O2 sensor & pipe (they said I couldn't just replace the sensor, but had to replace the pipe too. It is a fitted exhaust tube repair kit that's going to run $667!) Contacted OxygenSensors and they said I could just replace the sensor (got to find out exactly which one it is) - This car has 187,000 miles on it and the sensors have never been replaced. Would it make sense to replace both the sensors (error codes 0114 and 0115?)
Need to know if these are things that we can do ourselves. Have some car knowledge but didn't know how complicated it was to fix the things above.
I have a 1997 Maxima SE and the check engine soon light came on. This is what they told me needed to be replaced:
1. Ignition switch
2. Starter motor
3. O2 sensor & pipe (they said I couldn't just replace the sensor, but had to replace the pipe too. It is a fitted exhaust tube repair kit that's going to run $667!) Contacted OxygenSensors and they said I could just replace the sensor (got to find out exactly which one it is) - This car has 187,000 miles on it and the sensors have never been replaced. Would it make sense to replace both the sensors (error codes 0114 and 0115?)
Need to know if these are things that we can do ourselves. Have some car knowledge but didn't know how complicated it was to fix the things above.
o2 sensors are simple and relatively cheap to replace. just have to get under the car, screw out the old ones and screw in the new ones.
why touch the ignition switch and starter motor? does the car start rough, doesn't want to start?
I have a 1997 Maxima SE and the check engine soon light came on. This is what they told me needed to be replaced:
1. Ignition switch
2. Starter motor
3. O2 sensor & pipe (they said I couldn't just replace the sensor, but had to replace the pipe too. It is a fitted exhaust tube repair kit that's going to run $667!) Contacted OxygenSensors and they said I could just replace the sensor (got to find out exactly which one it is) - This car has 187,000 miles on it and the sensors have never been replaced. Would it make sense to replace both the sensors (error codes 0114 and 0115?)
Need to know if these are things that we can do ourselves. Have some car knowledge but didn't know how complicated it was to fix the things above.
i would just replace the o2 sensors to start. there might be 3 of them depending on if your max is ca or fed spec. when i did mine i used denso sensors. went directly to their site they were about $50 a piece. http://www.densoproducts.com
i would just replace the o2 sensors to start. there might be 3 of them depending on if your max is ca or fed spec. when i did mine i used denso sensors. went directly to their site they were about $50 a piece. http://www.densoproducts.com
I would get an ODB-II scanner, and get a better idea what might need to replace.
i would just replace the o2 sensors to start. there might be 3 of them depending on if your max is ca or fed spec. when i did mine i used denso sensors. went directly to their site they were about $50 a piece. http://www.dunsoproducts.com
that is not DENSO's website it is nothing more than another reseller of denso products.
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
I have a 1997 Maxima SE and the check engine soon light came on. This is what they told me needed to be replaced:
1. Ignition switch
2. Starter motor
3. O2 sensor & pipe (they said I couldn't just replace the sensor, but had to replace the pipe too. It is a fitted exhaust tube repair kit that's going to run $667!) Contacted OxygenSensors and they said I could just replace the sensor (got to find out exactly which one it is) - This car has 187,000 miles on it and the sensors have never been replaced. Would it make sense to replace both the sensors (error codes 0114 and 0115?)
Need to know if these are things that we can do ourselves. Have some car knowledge but didn't know how complicated it was to fix the things above.
if you are handy enough, pull the codes yourself and look at the CEL posts in the 4th gen forum. the computer is pretty good at diagnosis. The o2 sensors are not hard to replace, and you should not need to replace any part of your exhaust unless its rotted (wouldnt pass inspection), so thats probly bs. unless your ignition switch isnt working, dont muck with it. although it could be done by novice, good luck getting everyting to look stock again . and if your started aint broken, dont fix it. pull the codes, i would laugh if none of that stuff is the problem... some places replace o2 sensors like they are flux capacitors
right thats a reseller, authorised reseller. try finding them cheaper someplace. and try buying from densos website. neither are happening and its densoproducts.com not dunso
man, just a word of advice - you're too fresh here to stand up to .org old timers. they've been around the block a few times and if they want to school you...deal with it or you might not get answers to your future questions.
and why denso? i got 2 ntks for less than $50 shipped.
right thats a reseller, authorised reseller. try finding them cheaper someplace. and try buying from densos website. neither are happening and its densoproducts.com not dunso
that change to your link was quite intentional.
I am well aware of denso. I sell their products.
I can EASILY get them cheaper than that site, and no you can't.
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
that change to your link was quite intentional.
I am well aware of denso. I sell their products.
I can EASILY get them cheaper than that site, and no you can't.
thats what happens when u get on here first thing after waking up. u get dumb, then u get schooled.
How exactly do I adjust the belt tensioner (I'm having similar trouble, but only on start-up)? I'm not totally sure which way I should turn it.
loosen the nut that's in the middle of the pulley a bit (14mm) and adjust the tension by turning the nut on top (12mm). clockwise tightens. make sure you check belt tension while adjusting not to overtighten.
Alright i'm a noob and I have a question- after a while of searching the forums, i've realized there isn't much talk about 95- 96 grills. Although i've found a few on ebay which may not be great, I was still wondering if there is any advice for me as to which and where to get one. I want to compliment the rest of my car by gettin rid of that ugly stock grill ASAP. thanks
Alright i'm a noob and I have a question- after a while of searching the forums, i've realized there isn't much talk about 95- 96 grills. Although i've found a few on ebay which may not be great, I was still wondering if there is any advice for me as to which and where to get one. I want to compliment the rest of my car by gettin rid of that ugly stock grill ASAP. thanks
i like my stocker with $2 of gutter guard. a lot nicer than ebay bmw/pontiac looking one.
P1335 - 0407 Need help locating Crankshaft Position Sensor (Ref)
Hello,
I've searched the forums and I just can't seem to get enough help for this issue. I recently acquired a 97 and I can't get it to pass smog because the MIL is on. The code pulled from the car is P1335 and I think this is 0407. The CEL comes on but presently it is resetted and it is only a matter of time before it comes back on. I don't have a problem with starting the car (well once in a while in cold mornings, it needs a little bit of fuel to start). Thus after reading the TSB, I read that it could be this connector that may have wires which are faulty grounded. The TSB said to check the connector and separate the sensor wires from the injection wires and check for faulty grounds. Can anyone direct me to a diagram or picture as to where I can find this connector? I got these info from the service bulletin NTB95-038. If anyone else has other suggestions as to approach the issue, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks so much.
-Can't wait to take it for a road trip once it can be properly registered.
ive been looking around the site for a couple days now, without posting anything until today to make sure i wasnt asking stupid questions. or so i hope. anyways, i just a 95 SE and it has woodgrain trim, this woodgrain has some plasticy stuff peelin up off it and just looks beat. i am wondering if i can paint this stuff just a solid black? i have seen all the threads on painting your interior but none specifically answering if you can paint the woodgrain or not. would i need to take the rest of this plastic type covering off then do it? or because that stuff is coming off does that mean i cant period? any help would be appreciated
and second question... so im not whoring! lol.. keep it to one post, but i have cloth heated seats, i guess thats not to normal? but anyways i have yet to pick up the car i pick it up on tuesday, but when i test drove it i turned on the heated seats and waited a little while (5-7 min?) but there was no noticable difference in heat in the seat... is that just not enough time, or is there anyway to test that its still working?
ill say thanks now for any answers, and also that this site has been pretty bad asssss! im pumped to go put to use alot of the how-tos...
ive been looking around the site for a couple days now, without posting anything until today to make sure i wasnt asking stupid questions. or so i hope. anyways, i just a 95 SE and it has woodgrain trim, this woodgrain has some plasticy stuff peelin up off it and just looks beat. i am wondering if i can paint this stuff just a solid black? i have seen all the threads on painting your interior but none specifically answering if you can paint the woodgrain or not. would i need to take the rest of this plastic type covering off then do it? or because that stuff is coming off does that mean i cant period? any help would be appreciated
and second question... so im not whoring! lol.. keep it to one post, but i have cloth heated seats, i guess thats not to normal? but anyways i have yet to pick up the car i pick it up on tuesday, but when i test drove it i turned on the heated seats and waited a little while (5-7 min?) but there was no noticable difference in heat in the seat... is that just not enough time, or is there anyway to test that its still working?
ill say thanks now for any answers, and also that this site has been pretty bad asssss! im pumped to go put to use alot of the how-tos...
1. Welcome to the org!
2. Since the clearcoat is peeling off, I wouldn't bother painting it. The end product won't turn out too good IMO. But, you can paint it if you like no problem. Use 1000 grit or higher sandpaper to rough it up a little, then paint at will. Or, just remove the woodgrain all together.....but be extremely careful as to not damage the original black plastic pieces underneath. Use a blowdryer on it's warmest setting and/or leave your car in the hot sun for a few hours before peeling it off.
3. 5-7 minutes is more than enough time. Did the light on the switch light up? The heating elements in the seats could be toast, or other problems. And, AFAIK, cloth heated seats are not OEM.
__________________
99 Max SE 5 spd, SC'd, MEVI, Cattman Headers, LED tails, R34's with S2000 projectors, 13.1" Brembo BBK, EU.....381 HP/323 TQ
thank you wizard! just to further show how much of a noobie i am though haha, as far as paiting the interior... i didnt even know i could take off the woodgrain, and it seems like with that as a possibility ill DEF do that! sounds like the same process as debadging a car.. and then if the plastic is already black i obviously wouldnt need to paint it, since thats the look i wanted anyway. Would the plastic have the same sticky residue? and if so could i use bug n tar remover to get it off? or would the mess up the plastic.. sorry if this is repetitive or dumb..
for the seats--- the light switches did light up, but with no noticable heat coming from the seats... there is a sticky in the 4th gen maxima section that i looked at about heated seats, and it has a diagram of the wiring which i think i will take a look at, but that was my fear that it might need new heating parts if its not just something being unplugged or out of place... would this be expensive? worth it? and though it is wierd, i checked it out and you could get cloth seats, with the cold wheather package which included heated seats... i wouldnt expect that to be OEM either though...
again thank you for the help! glad somebody with knowledge is checkin this out cuz it sucks not bein able to post threads haha and i dont wanna whore to get there u kno? but thanks again...
ok i just went back and looked at those heated seats things and realized that was you! lol so i read a couple other post about it, which you actually wrote alot on and got a way better understanding of how it works even though im still a little confused... regardless im getting my car tomorrow and ill be able to go out and actually look at it... and when i have details as to if everything is connected and all that i will let you know! if it is i hope its not outrageous to replace the heating elements... and since the seat thing is obviously something you have talked a whole lot about before sorry for being repetitive!
thank you wizard! just to further show how much of a noobie i am though haha, as far as paiting the interior... i didnt even know i could take off the woodgrain, and it seems like with that as a possibility ill DEF do that! sounds like the same process as debadging a car.. and then if the plastic is already black i obviously wouldnt need to paint it, since thats the look i wanted anyway. Would the plastic have the same sticky residue? and if so could i use bug n tar remover to get it off? or would the mess up the plastic.. sorry if this is repetitive or dumb..
Yes, goo gone and a little elbow grease can remove the sticky residue that's left behind once the wood grain is removed no problem. Bug and tar remover may be a little harsh and change the appearance of the plastic.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rrookie5
for the seats--- the light switches did light up, but with no noticable heat coming from the seats... there is a sticky in the 4th gen maxima section that i looked at about heated seats, and it has a diagram of the wiring which i think i will take a look at, but that was my fear that it might need new heating parts if its not just something being unplugged or out of place... would this be expensive? worth it? and though it is wierd, i checked it out and you could get cloth seats, with the cold wheather package which included heated seats... i wouldnt expect that to be OEM either though...
again thank you for the help! glad somebody with knowledge is checkin this out cuz it sucks not bein able to post threads haha and i dont wanna whore to get there u kno? but thanks again...
Besides the obvious and checking the plug connections under the seat, then next thing is to trace and check the wiring coming from the switch to the seat and make sure everything is good (very easy to do). After that, it's probably safe to assume the heating elements in the seats are dead. Not too terribly hard to do from what I've read here on the org, but somewhat time consuming. A pair of new heating elements can be had for around $100. Worth it? That's up to you.
You're welcome.
__________________
99 Max SE 5 spd, SC'd, MEVI, Cattman Headers, LED tails, R34's with S2000 projectors, 13.1" Brembo BBK, EU.....381 HP/323 TQ
ok i just went back and looked at those heated seats things and realized that was you! lol so i read a couple other post about it, which you actually wrote alot on and got a way better understanding of how it works even though im still a little confused... regardless im getting my car tomorrow and ill be able to go out and actually look at it... and when i have details as to if everything is connected and all that i will let you know! if it is i hope its not outrageous to replace the heating elements... and since the seat thing is obviously something you have talked a whole lot about before sorry for being repetitive!
No problem. Once you get your car, and if you still have questions, jump into this thread and I'll help both of you guys out at the same time.
ive been looking around the site for a couple days now, without posting anything until today to make sure i wasnt asking stupid questions. or so i hope. anyways, i just a 95 SE and it has woodgrain trim, this woodgrain has some plasticy stuff peelin up off it and just looks beat. i am wondering if i can paint this stuff just a solid black? i have seen all the threads on painting your interior but none specifically answering if you can paint the woodgrain or not. would i need to take the rest of this plastic type covering off then do it? or because that stuff is coming off does that mean i cant period? any help would be appreciated
I had this problem on my '95 SE as well, and I tried everything. Peeling off the clear stuff, sanding, and clear coat (looked cheesy). Painting the wood trim itself as you suggested (looked REALLY cheesy). Regluing the original clear (looked TERRIBLE).
In the end, you have two options: one is to buy a new wood trim dash kit (they run around $250 if you get the good stuff), or just remove the dash kit altogether and hit the glue residue hard with Goo Gone. Once the clearcoat goes, I'm afraid the dash kit is kaput.
*I guess The Wizard already said most of the stuff. My bad!
ok last post of the night for me! then i get my car tomorrow and can give full details of my issues haha cause im sure ill have some... but! i think from what you guys are telling me, my best bet is to take the dash out and get that ugly wood trim off there and then work that residue off with *goo gone* not bug n tar! lol.. i just dont wanna warp my plastic u kno? that was kind of a mental note... anyways.. so im about 95% sure thats what im gonna do ill reinspect the woodgrain tomorrow... and then check out those seats... if i have problems wit the seats ill go to that thread (again thanks) and and also thanks nous!
one thing nous, when you say "once the clearcoat goes" you mean the the plastic clear coat on the woodgrain right? or are you talking bout if i mess up the plastic? cause my whole purpose in this is to avoid dropping that $250 on new interior pieces.. oh and also what did u end up doing? new dask? or just takin the woodgrain off and cleanin it up? cuz if you chose the second, would there be anyway possible u could put up a pic or a link to a pic of your dash? i would just really like to see those interior pieces after the woodgrain is off... i guess if i were to leave some ugly discoloring i could just then proceed to paint over that?
one thing nous, when you say "once the clearcoat goes" you mean the the plastic clear coat on the woodgrain right? or are you talking bout if i mess up the plastic? cause my whole purpose in this is to avoid dropping that $250 on new interior pieces.. oh and also what did u end up doing? new dask? or just takin the woodgrain off and cleanin it up? cuz if you chose the second, would there be anyway possible u could put up a pic or a link to a pic of your dash? i would just really like to see those interior pieces after the woodgrain is off... i guess if i were to leave some ugly discoloring i could just then proceed to paint over that?
well ill update you guys and thanks
Yes, I'm referring to the plastic clear coat on the wood trim pieces.
On that car (which is now in my girlfriend's possession), I just removed the wood trim. It looks fine.
On my current Maxima, the trim that came with the car when I got it was starting to go, so I pulled it out and replaced it with burled Walnut. I like it.
Can someone please tell me if ECM is the same as ECU and if it is located on the passenger side floor? Thanks in advance!
Yep, same thing. You access from the passenger side floor, but it's really underneath the stereo etc and on the 'hump'. Pop off the plastic trim piece there and you'll see it.
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99 Max SE 5 spd, SC'd, MEVI, Cattman Headers, LED tails, R34's with S2000 projectors, 13.1" Brembo BBK, EU.....381 HP/323 TQ
ok so i got the car today! good stuff, and i found out that the heated seats were just unplugged... problem solved there... and then i started to take the woodgrain off as well... im gonna make a cardomain for the max as well, with pics of everything that i do... got some wit terrible lighting as i workin on the car at night... so ill put better ones up tomorrow too... i need to be able to post threads! lol... a very small piece of my side body molding is coming off just a tiny bit... crazy glue?? or what can i do to fix that...
thank you! sounds pretty solid, now do i get that online or would a regular like lowes or home depot have that or an auto place or nething?
I see it at AutoZone and the like all the time. They call in "industrial mounting tape" or "moulding tape". I mounted all my HID ballasts with that stuff, and they are rock solid.
yep !!
Where did NTK come from? I said nothing of O2 sensors.
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