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09-26-2008, 10:49 PM
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#2041
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Cambridge, Mass
Posts: 505
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normal operating is about 200 iirc. im not sure what the temp is at the top of the gauge. one of the OGs has to know
__________________
Mods: WS SS Y | N1 style axle back | 5th gen muffler | Tokico HPs | Eibach ProKit Springs | 350z 18 AE rims
Current Project : R34retro | F&R Bumpers | Driver Fender | Trunk Lid (spoiler rust)
Wishlist: SC | 3.5Swap | 5Speed Swap | Optima Battery | 300ZX Calipers | Speed Bleeders | 5G Seats
Just changed the Starter, Alt (after it ate 2 batteries) battery & radiator (had an accident while changing alt)within a week. Should be good to go for the winter *all fingers crossed*
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09-27-2008, 09:49 AM
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#2042
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Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Acton,Ma.
Posts: 10
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Timing alignment
Quote:
Originally Posted by B_Eaze
I have never done any timing chain work but I found some pics in here
Timing Problem
somebody else might chime in with some info
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I know this is a dumb question but what is the FSM people keep mentioning.
I have the cover off. I set the crank to TDC and I noticed the crank gear has a small dent that lines up with a line on the block. The made me feel better. but the cam pullys don't seem to point to anything in particular. The arrow on the front one is at 4:30 and the back one is at 2:30. My timing chain has one link that is gold. Does that line up with anything ? I can't be off by that much because the car runs ok I just lost my top end power. I never took the chain off just replaced the tensioner and It must have jumped a tooth.
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09-27-2008, 10:06 AM
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#2043
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Cambridge, Mass
Posts: 505
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FSM = Factory Service Manual
I've never done any work to timing chains and have no idea how to help, sorry
__________________
Mods: WS SS Y | N1 style axle back | 5th gen muffler | Tokico HPs | Eibach ProKit Springs | 350z 18 AE rims
Current Project : R34retro | F&R Bumpers | Driver Fender | Trunk Lid (spoiler rust)
Wishlist: SC | 3.5Swap | 5Speed Swap | Optima Battery | 300ZX Calipers | Speed Bleeders | 5G Seats
Just changed the Starter, Alt (after it ate 2 batteries) battery & radiator (had an accident while changing alt)within a week. Should be good to go for the winter *all fingers crossed*
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09-27-2008, 11:43 AM
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#2044
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Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2
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Hey All,
Just bought a used Max, the guy before me put in this security system in it:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...+SEC-100S.html
The thing didn't come with a manual or anything and every single time I pop the trunk the alarm goes off. How do I reprogram this trigger? Or even better, will completely removing the alarm system be a big hassle? I'd rather buy an original remote and use the default security system anyways. There are quirks with this one that I don't like (lights don't flash after locking car, can't roll down windows...etc.)
Thanks a bunch,
-ac.
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09-27-2008, 12:14 PM
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#2045
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Cambridge, Mass
Posts: 505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hargow
Hey All,
Just bought a used Max, the guy before me put in this security system in it:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...+SEC-100S.html
The thing didn't come with a manual or anything and every single time I pop the trunk the alarm goes off. How do I reprogram this trigger? Or even better, will completely removing the alarm system be a big hassle? I'd rather buy an original remote and use the default security system anyways. There are quirks with this one that I don't like (lights don't flash after locking car, can't roll down windows...etc.)
Thanks a bunch,
-ac.
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Since you know who makes the system you should contact them (Alpine) and ask them how you can change settings on the system. Most people won't be able to help you cuz aftermarket systems vary. So unless someone has that system or one similar they prob won't know
__________________
Mods: WS SS Y | N1 style axle back | 5th gen muffler | Tokico HPs | Eibach ProKit Springs | 350z 18 AE rims
Current Project : R34retro | F&R Bumpers | Driver Fender | Trunk Lid (spoiler rust)
Wishlist: SC | 3.5Swap | 5Speed Swap | Optima Battery | 300ZX Calipers | Speed Bleeders | 5G Seats
Just changed the Starter, Alt (after it ate 2 batteries) battery & radiator (had an accident while changing alt)within a week. Should be good to go for the winter *all fingers crossed*
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09-27-2008, 01:21 PM
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#2046
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Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Acton,Ma.
Posts: 10
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Now what
Quote:
Originally Posted by gchase
Hi folks, I am going to pull the timing cover to check my timing chain alignment (this weekend). I replaced the tensioner 5 weeks ago (took the cover off because something fell inside) and since then I have had low power over 2500 RPMs. I think the chain may have jumped. Anyway I could really use help with how to check the alignment. There is enough slack in the chain (with the tensioner pushed in) to make a huge difference. Could someone give me a step by step or a picture. Do I need to make sure the chain is tight on the side opposite the tensioner ? What do the colored links line up with ? Are there marks on the cam pullys ? Is the first mark on the crank pully TDC ?
Sorry if this is a repeat but I try searching and found a lot of timing questions but I still had more.
Gary
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OK folks,
I finally figured out what was going on with my timing chain. It must have been put on at the factory off by three links. I lined up the cam sprocket arrows to the marks on the case. They both lined up perfectly and in sync. then I checked the timing mark on the crank and it was TDC. The yellow link was off by 3 teeth and so were the darker links on the cams. But everybody was where they should be. I was hoping the crank was going to be a tooth off but it was not.
So now, anybody got any ideas why after replacing the timing chain tensioner I lost significant power above 3000 RPMs ? The only thing I unhooked to get the cover off was the cam sensor. I did unhook the battery, could the ECM get confused ? Before I put it back together anything else I should look at ? It was PITA to get apart. 
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09-27-2008, 01:55 PM
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#2047
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: South Florida
Posts: 19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craigism
Hello, this is my first post and I could not start a thread so here is my question...
I can not get the headlight switch to click into the "on" position. The off and driving light works ok but the headlight on will not click or turn all the ways. It just springs back to the drivng light. Is the switch broken? Mt had light or hi-beams will not go on. The pull back will turn on the left hi-beem only. The fog lights will not turn on either. The turn signals work also.
I took out the switch and it looked good - not burnt. I want to order a new one but I need someone to confirm that their switch clicked into the on position. I'm assuming that there is no auto-off sensor.
Thanks.
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The newish one came wrong - no fog control and the connectors did not fit. The are re-sending it. I went to the u-pick junk yard and got one for $15 and it worked fine. I guess I'll try to sell the one I bought and get my $50 back. It was a Fog + Head Light and a Wiper switch.
__________________
Maxima 98 SE Stock (My First Maxima)
Working on: Exhaust, Rear O2S.
Completed: KS, Gas Hood support, Headlight Switch, Replaced KM cluster with Miles.
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09-27-2008, 03:07 PM
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#2048
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: 59715
Posts: 423
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B_Eaze
normal operating is about 200 iirc. im not sure what the temp is at the top of the gauge. one of the OGs has to know
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i doubt it's 200* since the t-stat is a 180*...but maybe i'm wrong.
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09-28-2008, 09:44 PM
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#2049
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: CONUS
Posts: 39
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Alright, another stupid parts question:
What is the 97-99 fog light cover part called? I'm referring to the plastic piece that fits over the bolts. My car has never that them, and I just realized it when I saw another 97 parked in front of the grocery store today. It'll be easier to figure out where to buy them if I know what to call them.
Thanks!
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09-28-2008, 10:49 PM
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#2050
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Carbon Fiber addict
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Temecula, CA
Posts: 4,407
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NousDefions
Alright, another stupid parts question:
What is the 97-99 fog light cover part called? I'm referring to the plastic piece that fits over the bolts. My car has never that them, and I just realized it when I saw another 97 parked in front of the grocery store today. It'll be easier to figure out where to buy them if I know what to call them.
Thanks!
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Just call Dave B at Southpoint Nissan in Texas and tell him what you need. Official name isn't necessary. Dave B knows his stuff, has great customer service, and has the best prices by far! His number is in the Dealer Feedback forum.
__________________

My Max:
99 Maxima 5 spd SE, SC'd, MEVI, Cattman Headers, KEVLO LED tails,R34 S2000 AP1 projector retro, Brembo GT BBK, Emanage Ultimate.....381 HP/323 TQ
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09-29-2008, 12:03 AM
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#2051
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Illinois
Posts: 166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLACK DEATH
Couple of questions.
Is there a difference in the overdrive tranny ratio in an auto vs a 5 spd?
Or is the difference in the axel gears or? Sorry dont know much about fwd cars. Reason is I have a 99 auto but found a 99 5spd and it seemed to be revving higher in overdrive in the 5 spd compared to an auto.
Also is $6800 a good price for a 99 SE limited with 60k miles. Blk/blk leather, 5spd and pretty clean? Thanks guys
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Let me ask you a few questions.
1. How deep is your Pocket Book?
2. Is this car modded in any way, or entirely stock?
3. How does the interior look, Leather Seats, Scratchs, Abrasions, Carpet, Ect.?
4. How does the Exterior look, Paint, Scratchs, Ect.?
5. Have you or someone else with some mechanical knowledge taken a look at the car while it was up in the air, and thouroughly inspected the vehicle?
6. Where are you buying this car from? Private party, Dealer, ect.?
7. What is the history of the vehicle? Accidents, Fender Benders, Oil Changes and Services done in Timely Fashion?
IMOP, 6800. For Any 4th Gen. Maxima at this point in time is CraZy. 60K miles or not. Thats alot of money for a 10 year old car. Now if that price was 1K less at the very least. yes, its worth it. But as i stated, 6800 is too much for an all stock, 10 year old car that could have potential problems. Get some more info, make some inquires. Shop Around. Remember These Cars Can Run Forever! My Own has over 230K miles on it! Yes this car may only have 60K on it but an accident or reselling it is going to make it seem like a big waste! You need to take into account how long you will drive this car and how much you do drive it. And at the same time, Gas A'int cheap! can you deal with 26 to the gallon?
__________________
Last edited by FallenOne; Tomorrow at 11:38 AM.
Shes Stock Cause Im Broke!
: Blaupunkt Laguna CD35 HU :
: Power Acoustik LT-980-2 : Power Acoustik OV2-600 :
: 2 Dual Voice Coil 1200 Watt Power Acoustik Subs in an Ported Box :
: Power Acoustik Indash 6.4" LCD Screen :
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09-29-2008, 11:02 AM
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#2052
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Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B_Eaze
Since you know who makes the system you should contact them (Alpine) and ask them how you can change settings on the system. Most people won't be able to help you cuz aftermarket systems vary. So unless someone has that system or one similar they prob won't know
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Thanks. Took me a while to find the correct model number, but after that a quick search on Alpine's site brought up the owner's manual which had programming instructions.
One question though: My remote is really worn out, and I'd like to grab a new one off eBay or something. There are other model remotes (still similar) that apparently have the same FCC ID on the back on my remote. As long as the FCCs match up, will I be able to use the different model remote?
Thanks a bunch,
-ac.
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09-30-2008, 09:24 AM
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#2053
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Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Miami
Posts: 13
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Hey, you guys know how the new Infiniti G37 sounds right? Well I was wondering what type of exhaust, muffler, etc. mods I could do to attain a similar sound for my 98 I30t.
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10-01-2008, 07:41 AM
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#2054
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allensteiner21
might be the axle job, might be a wheel bearing or a few other things. since you had it done at a shop you should have some kind of warranty on the job - go back and ask them to check it out.
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I saw on eBay a ready-to-install drive side axle (with boots and everything) for $50+shipping. I am think that I maybe get one of those and replace my original axle first, then I can take my time to disassembly mine to figure out what is wrong. Anyone has any experience of how reliable of these on eBay. My main concern is the safety - don't want the wheel falls off when I am in 60m/h speed...
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10-01-2008, 02:41 PM
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#2055
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Cambridge, Mass
Posts: 505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wxm
I saw on eBay a ready-to-install drive side axle (with boots and everything) for $50+shipping. I am think that I maybe get one of those and replace my original axle first, then I can take my time to disassembly mine to figure out what is wrong. Anyone has any experience of how reliable of these on eBay. My main concern is the safety - don't want the wheel falls off when I am in 60m/h speed...
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Do not use ebay when you can get a Advanced Auto Parts, Autozone axle with lifetime warranty for $50-$80. not worth it.
And, you dont need to fix your old axle unless you REALLY want to. Its a pretty messy job
__________________
Mods: WS SS Y | N1 style axle back | 5th gen muffler | Tokico HPs | Eibach ProKit Springs | 350z 18 AE rims
Current Project : R34retro | F&R Bumpers | Driver Fender | Trunk Lid (spoiler rust)
Wishlist: SC | 3.5Swap | 5Speed Swap | Optima Battery | 300ZX Calipers | Speed Bleeders | 5G Seats
Just changed the Starter, Alt (after it ate 2 batteries) battery & radiator (had an accident while changing alt)within a week. Should be good to go for the winter *all fingers crossed*
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10-02-2008, 11:44 AM
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#2056
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Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 1
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Ok heres my newbie question:
I'm attempting to resurrect a 99 maxima GXE auto. and whoever had it before I guess "lost" the electrical plug for one of the fuel injectors(the one closest to the passenger headlight to be more exact). I tried replacing the plug with one from a 98 maxima as well as a 96 and both plugs are different than the ones on the 99. The 98 and 96 plug seems "shallower" than the other ones so I dont think its making contact.
I know its not working since i can unplug it and plug it in all day with no change in the way it idles while unplugging the other plugs makes a big difference. I can also smell it running rich and it has a "roughness" to it at idle as well as at higher rpms but a bit smoother. I assume that this is because since the engine is turning faster the other 5 cylinders compensate more for the dead cylinder. I've also got a MAF engine code but could the dead cylinder be giving a "false" reading for that also?
Anyway my question is are my assumptions correct? Do I need the "deeper" plug from a 99 or is something else causing this cylinder to die? I checked the spark plugs but maybe it could be the spark plug wires? I have no idea how to tell if they are bad or not..they "look" good but as I said maybe I'm totally wrong? Any help would be appreciated in solving this mystery!
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10-02-2008, 07:27 PM
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#2057
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Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 4
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Hey guys..I joined this forum and am a newbie..But anyhow here's the story. I bought a 1998 Maxima GLE. Lo and behold it has an oil leak so I asked the dealer what the problem is and he said it was the valve cover gasket..So I got it replaced. Incidentally both front and rear gaskets were bad. But that didn't fix the leak it just made it leak less. When I went back he said the leak was coming from the seal inside the timing chain cover. I had that replaced also. But the leak still remains..I notice that the car leaks after its driven..Do you guys have any ideas where this leak could be coming from? Regardless I am going to take the car back to the dealer and tell the mechanic to fix this dam thing once and for all because its getting frustrating now..I just need some ideas that I can bounce off the mechanic when I see him next week..Thanks alot.
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10-02-2008, 07:57 PM
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#2058
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: The Burgh, IN
Posts: 106
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Wow. I hope you didnt have to pay for all of that. I've never seen that a timing chain cover seals go bad. But have him check the power steering pump.
__________________
1991 SE Auto - caught fire at 180K. fixed. sold at 217K
1994 Camry - totalled
1996 SE Auto - DD
1997 SE 5SP - Turbo project when time and $ comes
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10-02-2008, 08:26 PM
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#2059
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Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 4
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I paid 250 for all that work..this was done at a neighborhood mechanic..should I just go to the dealer and ask them to tell me whats wrong?
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10-02-2008, 09:36 PM
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#2060
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Carbon Fiber addict
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Temecula, CA
Posts: 4,407
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoodibaba
I paid 250 for all that work..this was done at a neighborhood mechanic..should I just go to the dealer and ask them to tell me whats wrong?
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Give whoever did the work one more chance to make things right. Hopefully you paid with a credit card. Dispute it if the mechanic is unwilling to get down to the bottom of your problem and actually solve it. Hopefully you saw that I replied to your same question in the other thread with ideas of where the oil is coming from.
Did you buy the Max from a Nissan dealer? Where you bought it and who did the work is hard to follow.....
__________________

My Max:
99 Maxima 5 spd SE, SC'd, MEVI, Cattman Headers, KEVLO LED tails,R34 S2000 AP1 projector retro, Brembo GT BBK, Emanage Ultimate.....381 HP/323 TQ
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10-03-2008, 07:29 AM
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#2061
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoodibaba
I paid 250 for all that work..this was done at a neighborhood mechanic..should I just go to the dealer and ask them to tell me whats wrong?
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Based on my experience, the dealers will NOT do any better. They usually replace parts one after another, you could be paying 10 times as much...
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10-03-2008, 09:50 AM
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#2062
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoodibaba
Hey guys..I joined this forum and am a newbie..But anyhow here's the story. I bought a 1998 Maxima GLE. Lo and behold it has an oil leak so I asked the dealer what the problem is and he said it was the valve cover gasket..So I got it replaced. Incidentally both front and rear gaskets were bad. But that didn't fix the leak it just made it leak less. When I went back he said the leak was coming from the seal inside the timing chain cover. I had that replaced also. But the leak still remains..I notice that the car leaks after its driven..Do you guys have any ideas where this leak could be coming from? Regardless I am going to take the car back to the dealer and tell the mechanic to fix this dam thing once and for all because its getting frustrating now..I just need some ideas that I can bounce off the mechanic when I see him next week..Thanks alot.
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I know that the oil pressure sensor is prone to leaking on Maxima's. I have replaced mine. It is located in the rear of the oil pan.
good luck,
Max
__________________
2009 Maxima SV premium + tech + spoiler
940 miles and counting.
1995 Maxima SE 5spd (Leather/ABS/Bose/Sunroof)
185307 miles. Stopped counting when hit a deer. RIP
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10-05-2008, 07:02 AM
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#2063
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 25
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Problem after engine swap
I swapped an infinity 300 motor after having a timing chain break in my old motor. Got everything running except it appears that two cylinders are not working. From the front of the car, the front-left and back-middle cylinders do not seem to be firing. I've swapped plugs and the devices that sit on top of the plugs and the symptoms persist in the same cylinder. Are there any common threads between these two cylinders that I'm missing? Any other common reasons I should look at? I think this motor was sitting at the junk yard for 4 - 6 years, juding from the looks of it, maybe fuel injectors? I'm just looking for opinions.
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10-05-2008, 09:48 AM
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#2064
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: 59715
Posts: 423
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eshelon
I swapped an infinity 300 motor after having a timing chain break in my old motor. Got everything running except it appears that two cylinders are not working. From the front of the car, the front-left and back-middle cylinders do not seem to be firing. I've swapped plugs and the devices that sit on top of the plugs and the symptoms persist in the same cylinder. Are there any common threads between these two cylinders that I'm missing? Any other common reasons I should look at? I think this motor was sitting at the junk yard for 4 - 6 years, juding from the looks of it, maybe fuel injectors? I'm just looking for opinions.
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might be just the lack of spark o fuel but...since it's sat in a junkyard for years how do you know it's not a bad motor? have you torn it down to check??? a motor sitting for so long would need a teardown and at least new gaskets and parts cleaning.
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