4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)Visit the 4th Generation forum to ask specific questions or find out more about the 4th Generation Maxima.
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the stickies say how to find out what the trouble codes are. but i didn't see anything about clearing them. is there a special way the codes need to be cleared, maybe by the dealer only?
i've been having some trouble with my car. i had the transmission rebuilt. after driving it for a day the engine light came back on with the same transmission code. i called the shop & they said it could be that they weren't able to 'fully clear the code'. i will be taking the car in on monday to get looked at. i'm just wondering if the problem wasn't fixed or if their equipment is really not able to clear out the code. thanks
nicki
The only way to clear it is with a code reader that you've got to buy. If the idiot light returns, the problem hasn't been fixed.
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
Hello, this is my first post and I could not start a thread so here is my question...
I can not get the headlight switch to click into the "on" position. The off and driving light works ok but the headlight on will not click or turn all the ways. It just springs back to the drivng light. Is the switch broken? Mt had light or hi-beams will not go on. The pull back will turn on the left hi-beem only. The fog lights will not turn on either. The turn signals work also.
I took out the switch and it looked good - not burnt. I want to order a new one but I need someone to confirm that their switch clicked into the on position. I'm assuming that there is no auto-off sensor.
Additional Question about Kiliometers to miles conversion....
My first Question:
Quote:
Originally Posted by craigism
Hello, this is my first post and I could not start a thread so here is my question...
I can not get the headlight switch to click into the "on" position. The off and driving light works ok but the headlight on will not click or turn all the ways. It just springs back to the drivng light. Is the switch broken? Mt had light or hi-beams will not go on. The pull back will turn on the left hi-beem only. The fog lights will not turn on either. The turn signals work also.
I took out the switch and it looked good - not burnt. I want to order a new one but I need someone to confirm that their switch clicked into the on position. I'm assuming that there is no auto-off sensor.
Thanks.
New post (sorry I can not start a tread for 12 more posts):
If I get a miles gauge and replace the kilo. gauge will it work?
Hello, this is my first post and I could not start a thread so here is my question...
I can not get the headlight switch to click into the "on" position. The off and driving light works ok but the headlight on will not click or turn all the ways. It just springs back to the drivng light. Is the switch broken? Mt had light or hi-beams will not go on. The pull back will turn on the left hi-beem only. The fog lights will not turn on either. The turn signals work also.
I took out the switch and it looked good - not burnt. I want to order a new one but I need someone to confirm that their switch clicked into the on position. I'm assuming that there is no auto-off sensor.
Thanks.
Sounds like your stalk needs replacing, but I'm just guessing. Relax bro, when someone knows the answer, they'll post up. How do you know your foglight bulbs are still good? As for the rt side high beam not working, to bulb could be bad since it's a dual filament bulb.
Quote:
Originally Posted by craigism
My first Question:
New post (sorry I can not start a tread for 12 more posts):
If I get a miles gauge and replace the kilo. gauge will it work?
Thanks.
Huh? Did you import a Maxima from a different country or something?
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99 Max SE 5 spd, SC'd, MEVI, Cattman Headers, LED tails, R34's with S2000 projectors, 13.1" Brembo BBK, EU.....381 HP/323 TQ
has anyone ever heard of someone using 88-94 240sx struts and springs to lower their maxima? i was looking at my buddies new suspension and it looks exactly like the max's.
__________________
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Thanks.
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1997 GXE 5sp with Black leather, all power, lowered, 18's, intake, clear/black corners ~WORK IN PROGRESS~
Huh? Did you import a Maxima from a different country or something?
No I bought it in South FL, but many Canadians and other Snow Birds sell their cars here.
From reading many of the posts it does look like the the US and Canada gauges are interchangeable. I'm just trying to get confirmation before I buy the parts.
How do you know your foglight bulbs are still good? As for the rt side high beam not working, to bulb could be bad since it's a dual filament bulb.
I do not know. I will know more after I replace the switch (by this weekend).
I will look at the fog bulbs to night and follow up. I ordered my switch with fog on ebay for $46 inc. shipping.
15 posts! Well I see the light and the wisdome now...
This is my 14th post. I have learned much and I think saved a buck or two. Thanks Maxima.org. I got to know the ropes with the while 15 post thing. I wanted to donate but then found that its $30 or nothing. Why not $5 or $10 options. If I use this forum more and it helps me I will pay the $30 and be happy about it but still I think there should be other options for donating or supporting.
This is my 14th post. I have learned much and I think saved a buck or two. Thanks Maxima.org. I got to know the ropes with the while 15 post thing. I wanted to donate but then found that its $30 or nothing. Why not $5 or $10 options. If I use this forum more and it helps me I will pay the $30 and be happy about it but still I think there should be other options for donating or supporting.
Ok, so my foglight flew out while driving down the road, and the lens got a big hole in it. Apparently one of the bolts wasnt in. So I bought a new foglight and it came with the bracket that goes around it. The thing is, I cant put in my new light cause the bolt that was in the original bracket (or whatever you call that metal thing you attach the light to) broke off. So now I either have to some how get the remaining bolt out, or replace the bracket. But how do I get the bracket out of the bumper? Do I have to take off the damn bumper? God, any simple task I try to do turns into some ****ed up ****.
Couple of questions.
Is there a difference in the overdrive tranny ratio in an auto vs a 5 spd?
Or is the difference in the axel gears or? Sorry dont know much about fwd cars. Reason is I have a 99 auto but found a 99 5spd and it seemed to be revving higher in overdrive in the 5 spd compared to an auto.
Also is $6800 a good price for a 99 SE limited with 60k miles. Blk/blk leather, 5spd and pretty clean? Thanks guys
Also is $6800 a good price for a 99 SE limited with 60k miles. Blk/blk leather, 5spd and pretty clean? Thanks guys
I can answer your second question.
Assuming it has a clean carfax, and checks out mechanically, that's a fair price. I'd snag it in a heartbeat. Double check the mileage though, sounds a little fishy.
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99 Max SE 5 spd, SC'd, MEVI, Cattman Headers, LED tails, R34's with S2000 projectors, 13.1" Brembo BBK, EU.....381 HP/323 TQ
yea, a lot of people have been whoring this thread so they can get 15 post and make a thread thats gonna get locked. ASK QUESTIONS HERE or search. thats what this thread is for
__________________ Mods: WS SS Y | N1 style axle back | 5th gen muffler | Tokico HPs | Eibach ProKit Springs | 350z 18 AE rims
Please don't whore this thread with useless crap (this applies to all n00bs). Go contribute something useful to the forums.....Thank you.
(lol the post preceding this one asks for the opposite)
That is really impossible for us noobs. For the most part we have never owned a Maxima, that is why we are new. The 15 post rule is to prevent spam bots. A noob can not add new useful info so that is why we have this thread, so not to clutter the main areas with the 15 junk posts. I for one, have made a effort to be helpful in most of my first 15 posts in the main forums and go slammed by dumb people that were more concerned that I might be trying to get to 15 rather than offering valuable information or asking real questions. To each his own but this forum is here to try to help others and that is what I plan to do.
This thread is not for you to get 15 posts, its for u to get answers. Noobs come and open threads which have been discussed several times. The thing your not getting is that you do not need to open a thread to get answers. Search and I guarantee 99% of the questions asked can be answered by search... even unregistered people can search. Search is your friend. If you dont want to search you can ask questions here. not tryna be rude but this place has enough repeated threads already. READ the first post please
__________________ Mods: WS SS Y | N1 style axle back | 5th gen muffler | Tokico HPs | Eibach ProKit Springs | 350z 18 AE rims
It has been a couple of months that my 95 Max GLE makes noise from the front driver side. The noise sounds like a dryer in a hall way (by that I mean with a rotation noise with a bit echo) is more noticeable in higher speed (>50 miles). I first thought was the wheel, but the noise is not going away after a balance/rotation. I can't directly relate but couldn't help thinking whether it has anything to do with the left side axle seal replacement job at my local mechanic in the beginning this year. (I have to admit the guys there usually are really good). Anyway, what could be the cause of the noise?
I've search on here and elsewhere and can't seem to make any headway, so I figure I'll just ask:
Question #1:
Where is the best place to find a replacement for the undercarriage shroud located behind the bumper? Mine is ripped to shreds and currently held up by a spiderweb of Zip-ties.
Question #2: Is it even worth replacing, or should I just take it off? Would it be better just to fabricate a replacement?
I've search on here and elsewhere and can't seem to make any headway, so I figure I'll just ask:
Question #1:
Where is the best place to find a replacement for the undercarriage shroud located behind the bumper? Mine is ripped to shreds and currently held up by a spiderweb of Zip-ties.
Question #2: Is it even worth replacing, or should I just take it off? Would it be better just to fabricate a replacement?
Thanks!
talking about the front splash shields? cheapest would be from a junkyard. i've read somewhere on here iirc that a guy had one made out of a thin sheet of aluminum and said it gave his front some extra down force while driving.
you can also try courtesy parts for a new one, or ebay.
talking about the front splash shields? cheapest would be from a junkyard. i've read somewhere on here iirc that a guy had one made out of a thin sheet of aluminum and said it gave his front some extra down force while driving.
you can also try courtesy parts for a new one, or ebay.
Yes, probably the splash shields. I suppose searching works better if you actually know what you are searching for.
Aluminum is an interesting idea, although the "extra downforce" bit is fishy at best.
It has been a couple of months that my 95 Max GLE makes noise from the front driver side. The noise sounds like a dryer in a hall way (by that I mean with a rotation noise with a bit echo) is more noticeable in higher speed (>50 miles). I first thought was the wheel, but the noise is not going away after a balance/rotation. I can't directly relate but couldn't help thinking whether it has anything to do with the left side axle seal replacement job at my local mechanic in the beginning this year. (I have to admit the guys there usually are really good). Anyway, what could be the cause of the noise?
might be the axle job, might be a wheel bearing or a few other things. since you had it done at a shop you should have some kind of warranty on the job - go back and ask them to check it out.
Yes, probably the splash shields. I suppose searching works better if you actually know what you are searching for.
Aluminum is an interesting idea, although the "extra downforce" bit is fishy at best.
actually, if it really works, would be beneficial as it would give you more traction at high speeds. might come off and damage the underside of the car though...
I noticed water dripping from a spout of the firewall, passenger side just above the axle. i wasnt running the a/c and it continued dripping after i shut the car off.
Hi folks, I am going to pull the timing cover to check my timing chain alignment (this weekend). I replaced the tensioner 5 weeks ago (took the cover off because something fell inside) and since then I have had low power over 2500 RPMs. I think the chain may have jumped. Anyway I could really use help with how to check the alignment. There is enough slack in the chain (with the tensioner pushed in) to make a huge difference. Could someone give me a step by step or a picture. Do I need to make sure the chain is tight on the side opposite the tensioner ? What do the colored links line up with ? Are there marks on the cam pullys ? Is the first mark on the crank pully TDC ?
Sorry if this is a repeat but I try searching and found a lot of timing questions but I still had more.
I noticed water dripping from a spout of the firewall, passenger side just above the axle. i wasnt running the a/c and it continued dripping after i shut the car off.
How much coolant is currently in your reservoir?
I'm not sure what was hooked up to that, try checking it when the engine is running. If coolant is pouring out then chances are your missing a hose. If nothing is coming out, turn the heat on ALL THE WAY and check if coolant is pouring out.
Make sure you pay attention to your engine temp while doing this, if it starts getting highter than normal (above midway) turn it off
__________________ Mods: WS SS Y | N1 style axle back | 5th gen muffler | Tokico HPs | Eibach ProKit Springs | 350z 18 AE rims
Hi folks, I am going to pull the timing cover to check my timing chain alignment (this weekend). I replaced the tensioner 5 weeks ago (took the cover off because something fell inside) and since then I have had low power over 2500 RPMs. I think the chain may have jumped. Anyway I could really use help with how to check the alignment. There is enough slack in the chain (with the tensioner pushed in) to make a huge difference. Could someone give me a step by step or a picture. Do I need to make sure the chain is tight on the side opposite the tensioner ? What do the colored links line up with ? Are there marks on the cam pullys ? Is the first mark on the crank pully TDC ?
Sorry if this is a repeat but I try searching and found a lot of timing questions but I still had more.
Gary
I have never done any timing chain work but I found some pics in here
How do you know your foglight bulbs are still good? As for the rt side high beam not working, to bulb could be bad since it's a dual filament bulb. 
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