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I have a 99 SE and recently had CEL pop up. So I had it checked and two codes came up p0325 which is the knock sensor and p1320 which is the ignition signal. My question is will changing the knock sensor correct both problems or is there something else I need to do for the ignition signal?
As far as I know, knock sensor malfunction by itself will not even trigger the CEL to come on. I guess Nissan thinks it is not severe enough to cause any issues. So, I think you definately have to look at the other issue. The good news however is that you can get knock sensors cheap on ebay (I got original Nissan sensor for $46 shipped last week).
good luck,
Max
Quote:
Originally Posted by blue21
I have a 99 SE and recently had CEL pop up. So I had it checked and two codes came up p0325 which is the knock sensor and p1320 which is the ignition signal. My question is will changing the knock sensor correct both problems or is there something else I need to do for the ignition signal?
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2009 Maxima SV premium + tech + spoiler
2500 miles and counting.
1995 Maxima SE 5spd (Leather/ABS/Bose/Sunroof)
185307 miles. Stopped counting when hit a deer. RIP
i have a bad knock sensor after i replace it is there anyway i can reset the check engine light myself so i dont have to pay 70 bucks for a shop to do it for me?
I've had a hard starting issue for about 2 months or so which seems to be getting progressively worse. When I go to start the car, one of three things will happen: it will crank and crank and crank and not fire unless I stop then try cranking again, then it starts; it will crank a few times then make a kind of a "crunch" noise which causes me to stop turning the key immediately by reflex, then it will start the next try after that; or, it turns over normally.
This past March I had a service done which included new plugs, filters, throttle body cleaning and replacement of the evap canster valve (SES code had been tripped for awhile for that). Just earlier this week the SES light came on and I checked it today; it was the crankshaft positon sensor (front) code. I checked it with a meter per the Haynes manual and it was indeed bad, so I replaced it this afternoon. I thouht that might have had something to do with the starting problem, but after installing the sensor and clearing the codes it's still doing the same thing. This leads me to think that it might be the starter, especially since it occassionally makes that crunch noise when cranking. I replaced the starter about 5 years ago, so I don't know if Maxima starters are known to have issues. I also replaced the battery and alternator last year if that's relevant to the situation.
So, other than the starter, any other opinions as to what this could be? Coils? MAF sensor? Fuel pump? For the record, my Max is a '97, has ~155,000 miles and other than starting it runs fine - no loss of power, hesitation, idles normal....I suppose I could pull the starter and bring it down to Advance Auto to get tested, but I'd rather not unless I really have to. Thanks in advance for any help guys.
I have a 2003 GLE with the Bose stereo and i'm having some issues. The first noticeable problem is that the sound fluctuates randomly by itself! I'll be listening to a song and have to turn the volume up usually two notches to bring it back to the sound it was b4 it changed it by itself. 2) The sub woofer randomly doesn't work, it doesn't matter if I'm using the tape deck or the cd changer or the radio, sometimes it'll work and others it won't! I'm thinkin it's either the head unit or the amplifier......what is the problem?!??!
Which coil pack is cylinder 4? Front or engine/car - passenger or /middle or /drivers side or the side closer to the rear of the car passenger or /middle/ or drivers side?
Thanks (I have the P0304 code cylinder 4 misfire)
Also does it matter what kind of plugs?
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
I've had a hard starting issue for about 2 months or so which seems to be getting progressively worse. When I go to start the car, one of three things will happen: it will crank and crank and crank and not fire unless I stop then try cranking again, then it starts; it will crank a few times then make a kind of a "crunch" noise which causes me to stop turning the key immediately by reflex, then it will start the next try after that; or, it turns over normally.
This past March I had a service done which included new plugs, filters, throttle body cleaning and replacement of the evap canster valve (SES code had been tripped for awhile for that). Just earlier this week the SES light came on and I checked it today; it was the crankshaft positon sensor (front) code. I checked it with a meter per the Haynes manual and it was indeed bad, so I replaced it this afternoon. I thouht that might have had something to do with the starting problem, but after installing the sensor and clearing the codes it's still doing the same thing. This leads me to think that it might be the starter, especially since it occassionally makes that crunch noise when cranking. I replaced the starter about 5 years ago, so I don't know if Maxima starters are known to have issues. I also replaced the battery and alternator last year if that's relevant to the situation.
So, other than the starter, any other opinions as to what this could be? Coils? MAF sensor? Fuel pump? For the record, my Max is a '97, has ~155,000 miles and other than starting it runs fine - no loss of power, hesitation, idles normal....I suppose I could pull the starter and bring it down to Advance Auto to get tested, but I'd rather not unless I really have to. Thanks in advance for any help guys.
Nevermind....the starter was bad after all. Installed a new one, problem solved.
Im trying to remove my drain plug for my oil but its being a pain and wont come off. does it matter if I use wd40?
no wd40 wont hurt it and ur only spraying it outsite ... it has broken on alota people so make sure not to use insane force on it.. just play with it by loosing and tightening till its free.
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95 SE (VQ35DE EATER) - 96 GXE (Weekend Fun) - 98 GXE (Daily Driver/Grocery Getter) = sold
Quote:
Originally Posted by irish44j
khantalha, in case you didn't see my other post - your signature is not appropriate for this forum and needs to be deleted. Please take care of it...
Lots of NEW/USED 4th Gen Parts , Click here, if dont see what ur looking for then PM me...
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
Yooo I replaced the bumper lights yesterday, (smoked lens and amber bulbs). I had the ignition on one click and the CD player playing. I noticed my CD stopped playing during the process. Now, my cd's don't play at all! Do you think I fried something by having the ignition switch on while changing the bulbs or might this be just a mere coincidence? (keep in mind radio and tape work) just no CD's!! Help!
where is the maf/baro sw solenoid/valve located???? I found the MAF on the tube between the airbox and (resonator is it?) .....but where is that maf/baro sw solenoid valve? I have the code 1302 and need it gone by thursday for inspection.
I'm trying to install a K&N cone filter, i took out my old one but the new filter looks way to big to fit, the filter measures out to 4 1/4 wide, how do i mount it on the stock pipe. (sorry for sounding like teh n00b)
edit i put it in OVER the stock piping, im not sure how bad this may be for my engine, but please help and tell me what im doing wrong http://i33.tinypic.com/2db5jjc.jpg
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Last edited by z00york145; 07-21-2008 at 01:28 PM.
I'm trying to install a K&N cone filter, i took out my old one but the new filter looks way to big to fit, the filter measures out to 4 1/4 wide, how do i mount it on the stock pipe. (sorry for sounding like teh n00b)
ok...so i'm an auto and when i turn my car on 1st the idle is very rough then when i put it in anything but park or idle it the engine shuts off ive hear alot of things that could be causing it but i want to be sure before i spend my money
Hello Maxima.org users. This is my first post and I would like to make it as informative as possible. Briefly, my name is Chris, 21 years old and I live in Texas. I am the owner of a 1996 Nissan Maxima GLE, which has a few problems right now and a history of two bad wrecks consisting of front end damage.
Current status of car:
Minor oil leak.
Misaligned Steering wheel.
Minor body flaws.
Engine misfire.
"MAP" sensor errors.
Help needed / Questions.
1. First I would like to start off with the oil leak. Recently I paid my uncle to fix a faulty water pump. In doing so he offered to tune up and clean some of my engine, I agreed and allowed him to. While taking apart some of the engine, he had to remove the timing chain housing and chain. The housing was previously removed by a car repair shop that had to take down part of the engine to "look" for my coolant leak, and was not placed back tightly enough. After my uncle finished cleaning and tuning up the engine, he hooked everything back up and was done.
Since then I have had a minor oil leak, which my father and I thought was coming from the oil pan. This past week we replaced the oil plan with a brand new one, new bolts and sealer. The oil leak is even more minor, but one still consists, not from the oil pan. While under the car, I can reach up to the approximate area and feel where fresh oil has leaked. The oil leak comes from directly above the oil pan and I am not sure what could be wrong. Does the timing chain housing continue further back and lower into the engine bay? Is there anyway to fix / replace what is wrong with the engine without tearing down part of the engine?
I will try to get a picture of the approximate location of the oil leak to help.
2. The engine misfire also arose as a problem after my uncle tore down part of the engine, cleaned it and put it back together. After doing so he replaced the spark plugs that were already bad / damaged, with new ones. He is an experienced mechanic and followed the car's timing variables from a manual specifically made for my car. I have no clue what could be causing this nor how to fix it. Please help!
3. Using our diagnostic computer, we searched for error codes pertaining to why the check engine light was on. Like the two problems above, this "MAP" sensor error started after my uncle worked on my car engine. I looked in the manual he used and found little to nothing about the "MAP" sensor, however I found a Boost sensor in the location is specified. The boost sensor shows no where in the manual, so I am confused about this too. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
4. Another problem, although very minute is my steering wheel. In order to drive straight, I have to keep the steering wheel turned slightly to the left, which I personally do not like. I have had three shops tell me nothing is wrong with my car's alignment. The steering wheel has not been replaced due to it's prior accidents several years ago, atleast that I know of. Again, not sure why I have to hold the steering wheel to the left and I would like to get that fixed too. Any help would be appreciated.
5. Finally I would like some help relating to small body work flaws, specifically the hood. As I stated before, my car has been in two major wrecks, both dealing with front end damage. Currently the hood has a noticeable defect, either in it's placement.
As you see in the image above, part of the hood comes further down past the fender, almost onto the side lamp.
Compared to the image below, there is a noticeable difference in where the hood ends. A very minor problem at the most, I find it annoying. Any help regarding the problem would also be greatly appreciated.
Hi all. I have found a lot of information on this site and think it's great. However I would like to ask how many quarts of oil should be used at the time of an oil change? The work order from my oil change says they used 4.25 quarts which seems high, but I could be wrong.
Also, my check engine light comes on when i'm driving on the highway sometimes when i'm above 2500 rpm but when i let off the gas pedal it goes off and doesn't come back on for a while even above 2500 rpm... any idea what that could be all about? It may or may not have something to do with going up hill but after i crested the hill it stayed on today but then whet off after I eased up on the accelerator. I also tried turning off the O/D which had no effect, the light stayed on until i let off the gas pedal then too. It has been happening three days in a row now.
At first I thought it was low coolant so i topped that off and it happened again anyway. The car seems to be running fine otherwise.
Also, is the light is sort of blinking/flickering when it is on, it isn't steady.
Hi all. I have found a lot of information on this site and think it's great. However I would like to ask how many quarts of oil should be used at the time of an oil change? The work order from my oil change says they used 4.25 quarts which seems high, but I could be wrong.
Also, my check engine light comes on when i'm driving on the highway sometimes when i'm above 2500 rpm but when i let off the gas pedal it goes off and doesn't come back on for a while even above 2500 rpm... any idea what that could be all about? It may or may not have something to do with going up hill but after i crested the hill it stayed on today but then whet off after I eased up on the accelerator. I also tried turning off the O/D which had no effect, the light stayed on until i let off the gas pedal then too. It has been happening three days in a row now.
At first I thought it was low coolant so i topped that off and it happened again anyway. The car seems to be running fine otherwise.
Also, is the light is sort of blinking/flickering when it is on, it isn't steady.
Check your codes, and that is a fine amount of oil, (4 - 4.5qts) don't worry.
__________________ 03 SE 4AT 242whp/238wtq
95 SE 4AT 235k Miles
Ok, so that is a valid thought, I'm not discrediting it...BUT, if your fans aren't working w/ the AC on, that is a CLEAR indicator. Also, try the ECT plug as stated above, but again, AC = no fans on = fans FTL.
Couple that with the fact that t-stats typically fail the other way, (too cold).
Thanks for all the info guys. Just as an update, it was the fans and the thermostat and I had a leak in the cooling system. Took it to **** Smith Nissan here in Columbia where I purchased the car from and got it all taken care of. Put quite a hit on the wallet though, nearly $1200 in all.
Before I get the lecture on clearing fault codes ... My 1996 Infiniti G20 would log a fault code every time I changes oil. Eventually it would clear itself & clear the engine check light. So if a 2 liter Nissan can record false fault codes, I susppect a 3 liter Maxima can also record false fault codes.
So I was at the car wash today and a guy working there pointed out my muffler was wobbling. I looked under and found a rusted exhaust pipe busted in half. I really liked the look/ performance of what is on there now (until it broke). I bought it from my brother's friend who put a cold air intake and other stuff into it. I want to know where to buy a quality single output performance exhaust that isn't over $300. I plan on having a skilled mechanic friend install it. I found a great thread with instructions on here for installation, but I don't know who to buy from for the best deal? I also saw there are a bunch of parts that make up the exhaust, since the pipe broke in front of the cadillac converter (when standing behind the car), what parts should I get. The entire pipe going to the front looks pretty rusty. I know this is such as noob question. I drive a '96 Maxima SE. Also where can I get replacements for the exterior plastic door guard strips that have fallen off? I went to the local dealer, they wanted $75 per door without installation.
Thanks for all the help. I had 0201 ,0605 and 0304 codes pop up changed the 4th cylinder ignition coil and Bam car stopped running rough(very easy) now I need to try and get to the knock sensor. I have a big compressor lookin thing in the way and I can't see the ks sensor at all(99 se).
Thank you for the great site, I've been reading for like two weeks now, and it has helped me through a few problems and questions.
-edit-
NM, I think I found a thread that helps me. It's all what words you use to search.
Still, I think there should be a sticky with a list of stock rims and tires that fit 4th gen maximas. Might help a newbie when purchasing rims.
Before I get the lecture on clearing fault codes ... My 1996 Infiniti G20 would log a fault code every time I changes oil. Eventually it would clear itself & clear the engine check light. So if a 2 liter Nissan can record false fault codes, I susppect a 3 liter Maxima can also record false fault codes.
The Maxima does not log oil changes, etc. It logs what the ECU sees. Check the Fault Light Indicator thread, it tells you how to get the code, how to fix the code, and how to clear the code.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DTrem08
What size is the stock exhaust piping? 2.25? 2.5?
2"
But why?
__________________ 03 SE 4AT 242whp/238wtq
95 SE 4AT 235k Miles
quick question. (old time reader new poster) I was trying to find out the person I helped change their auto to manual it was a 4th gen, he is a moderator here I beleive. It was done In tallahassee Fl. at R and R truck and auto. His set up was nice and he knew everything about everything on maximas. He had z32 break setup. and (modded his original Auto tranny with the 12 volt mod) Just trying to throw a shout out.
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Whered that VQ go??
1. 2003 titanium edit blacked out,Hks Exhaust, Jim wolf Pop Charger, 17Deg advance, Nex Coilovers, staggered 20" (yaya i know)
2. 2000 pearl white 5 spd all basic bolt ons g35 whls, it was good while it lasted.
3 87 stang Project 306ci built motor full susp. (in garage) its sloow .....
I've got a 99 GXE with 165k miles that is giving me some problems. It stalls for a second when I take off from stop lights.. it doesnt completely die out it just jerks and then goes back to normal. This doesnt happen every time but it has been happening more and more lately. Having trouble with cold starts as well, takes way too long for the engine to turn over but this isnt an issue when the engine is already warm.
I've replaced the fuel filter, spark plugs and the EGR was cleaned about a year ago. The CEL isnt on.. Any suggestions as to what I should try next?
I am new here also. I just got a 97 Maxima GLE in beige. I want to do the red/clear taillgiht mod that I have seen alot of people with. Did most of you guys buy them like that on ebay or did you make them yourself using the directions from the Exterior FAQ thread that I saw?
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