4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)Visit the 4th Generation forum to ask specific questions or find out more about the 4th Generation Maxima.
Welcome to Maxima.org!
Welcome to Maxima.org,
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access
to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations, privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join Maxima.org today!
Can I replace the ignition coil connection boots (http://www.autopartsauthority.com/pa...1&make_code=NI) or do I have to replace the entire ignition coil? I was told by a mechanic that only the boots need to be changed and not the entire coil. Any clarification greatly appreciated.
Been searchin the forum for a while now to find this answer but i needed to know...
i got into a minor car accident over a month ago, and now my front bumper is a little misaligned. the notch that was under the headlight is now out and i was wondering what where the steps to removing the bumper and putting back on correctly so that everything lines back up again? i didnt just want to start tryin to figure it out and end up lookin like a fool(dont have alot of time for trial and error at the moment and dotn want to go to a shop) so i would rather ask first.. THANKS
Been searchin the forum for a while now to find this answer but i needed to know...
i got into a minor car accident over a month ago, and now my front bumper is a little misaligned. the notch that was under the headlight is now out and i was wondering what where the steps to removing the bumper and putting back on correctly so that everything lines back up again? i didnt just want to start tryin to figure it out and end up lookin like a fool(dont have alot of time for trial and error at the moment and dotn want to go to a shop) so i would rather ask first.. THANKS
Get the Haynes manual. Goes through uninstall and install. You'll probably need a new bumper tho. Unless you don't want a new one of course.
^^ Thanks... don't want a new one right now just wanna make the one i have look good for now.. it has some marks on it from the accident but ima just do some research and wait before i start doing any modifications.. and when i do it will be engine mods first...
i know they sell them at Autozone so ima just go and pick up a copy.. i was lookin to see if anyone could take me thru it step by step for free tho lol...
When I drive the car it feels fine, but when I stop and accelerate it feels like the car is missing. Is this related to the ignition coils? I changed two coils last summer.
When I drive the car it feels fine, but when I stop and accelerate it feels like the car is missing. Is this related to the ignition coils? I changed two coils last summer.
Thanks for any help / advice!
test your coils and see if they are all working correctly.
Did the car ever have the Bose system at any point?
Dave
I don't think so. The speakers I pulled out were Panasonic, of the cheap paper cone type.
I fixed the worst of the sound problem with a bit of tuning in the head unit. Still not overly impressed with the bass response, but at least they don't sound like they are going to explode.
Still not sure if replacing the head unit would help, or if I should go full on with an amp and sub.
When I picked up my Max, it had a Pioneer basic style head unit already installed. I recently installed a set of Pioneer 4-ways in the doors and rear deck.
Here's my problem. I know that I won't ever get great bass out of the 4-ways, but when ever I adjust the sound so that I get any, the speakers sound like they are about to blow. I turn down the bass and the mids and highs sound great. When I set everything to reasonable levels, the bass still sounds like crap.
Would getting a better head unit improve things? I know that I won't get great bass without an amp and sub, but my last two cars had decent bass and clear sound without an amp or sub. I'm not looking to rattle the glass out, just enough to enjoy my music.
take out the speakers and check if u did nto cross the +/- wires, in reverse u loose base (operating bi-polar). if not then take out the pioneer head unit, inspect the wire harness and see if any +/- SPEAKER TERMINAL wires were crossed at that point...
__________________
Toronto Maxima Enthusiasts Club (TMEC)
Keepin' it all JBL
recently my clutch pedal has become very easy to depress n there is alot of slack i guess u could say before the clutch is engaged, wat would you say this is and if the clutch is still being engaged and disengaged should i be concerned
I own a '96 Max and I'm having trouble opening my trunk, the valet switch isn't turned on, the only way I can open it is if I have someone pull and hold the trunk lever on the floor on the drivers side while someone else pulls up on the trunk. Could my trunk be too heavy because of the spoiler? It's a stock spoiler.
I own a '96 Max and I'm having trouble opening my trunk, the valet switch isn't turned on, the only way I can open it is if I have someone pull and hold the trunk lever on the floor on the drivers side while someone else pulls up on the trunk. Could my trunk be too heavy because of the spoiler? It's a stock spoiler.
haha really??! its a stock spoiler. The trunk is designed to open with the spoiler on. You probably just need to replace the latch or the arms could be messed up. My guess is the latch does not open when it needs to.
i just remembered, when i had my trunk problems while trying to figure out / fix the problem i accidentally switched the safety switch inside the trunk, so i would hear the latch release, but the trunk would not open -- oh boy that took a while to figure out
was having problems with my clutch and i cheked my fluid which was empty so i filled it . I still have alot of play in my pedal tho, should there be any play nin the pedal or should the clutch grab right when the pedal is only slightly depressed????
Thanks for letting us "newbies" have a chance. My question is what have people done with the automatic shifter in there maxima? The stock one, well, is pretty boring. What have people done?
Thanks for letting us "newbies" have a chance. My question is what have people done with the automatic shifter in there maxima? The stock one, well, is pretty boring. What have people done?
Different shift knob or lower it. I changed mine but guys give crap cause they think I want to look like a manual. I do not want to look like a 5spd, just that the stock auto shifter is boring. Here's what i did with it:
Heres a new question, I've decided to do a vq35 swap and have been combing through the threads to get all the general info. I can. One question still stands out that I can not find an answer to. If you are planning this swap, wanting to t/c or s/c it and put forged heads and rods in should you also replace the crank with a forged one? Also with this setup would it be benefical to stick with the vq30 ecu or the vq35 for tuning purposes? Thanks in advance for your help
Different shift knob or lower it. I changed mine but guys give crap cause they think I want to look like a manual. I do not want to look like a 5spd, just that the stock auto shifter is boring. Here's what i did with it:
Looks VERY nice! What did you do with the overdrive button? and the shifter interlock button?
I'm new here so I can't post this in its own thread, but...
I'm looking at a used 1995 Maxima (GXE, I believe) with 95K miles on it for $2999. It has an automatic transmission. What are some things that I should look for when inspecting the car? Are there any common trouble areas or problems that I should look for?
I'm new here so I can't post this in its own thread, but...
I'm looking at a used 1995 Maxima (GXE, I believe) with 95K miles on it for $2999. What are some things that I should look for when inspecting the car? Are there any common trouble areas or problems that I should look for?
rear brake noises are very common for all the 4th gen's, I personally have replaced the rear calipers, rotors, pads, all the e-brake cables to get rid rear brake noise. The e-brake cables on these years have a tendency to lock up and cause caliper problems like sticking and rusting. Also check to see is the check engine light is on, sometimes the knock sensors go bad and set it off. Neither of these problems are that expensive or hard to fix.
rear brake noises are very common for all the 4th gen's, I personally have replaced the rear calipers, rotors, pads, all the e-brake cables to get rid rear brake noise. The e-brake cables on these years have a tendency to lock up and cause caliper problems like sticking and rusting. Also check to see is the check engine light is on, sometimes the knock sensors go bad and set it off. Neither of these problems are that expensive or hard to fix.
How much do you think any of those repairs would cost? Thankfully, this lot gives a 30 day/1000 mile warranty. So if anything is bad, they'll fix it, I reckon.
Also, would it be advisable to have the car inspected by a mechanic prior to purchase (assuming it test drives fine without any apparent problems)?
How much do you think any of those repairs would cost? Thankfully, this lot gives a 30 day/1000 mile warranty. So if anything is bad, they'll fix it, I reckon.
Also, would it be advisable to have the car inspected by a mechanic prior to purchase (assuming it test drives fine without any apparent problems)?
I personally did all the repairs to my car they price as follows: calipers $125.00 ea, rotors $50.00 (premium) $35.00 (standard), pads $60.00 rear set, all three e-brake cables will run around $300.00 total. And it is a very good idea to get a mechanic that you trust to give it an inspection before any vehical purchase. The other thought of the warranty, while they should fix the problem they will probably try to do the cheap fix till your warranty is up. But test drive it first and make sure everything is on the up and up, who knows there might be nothing wrong with it, but run the kelley blue book on it and find out where it stands, a 95 with only 90,000+ miles on it sounds like it should go for more than 3 grand from a dealer. So make sure you give it a good inspection and you really know what you're getting into. Oh and the as far as the knock sensor goes that will cost you about $170.00 for the sensor alone, and you have to take of the IM to get at it.
rear brake noises are very common for all the 4th gen's, I personally have replaced the rear calipers, rotors, pads, all the e-brake cables to get rid rear brake noise. The e-brake cables on these years have a tendency to lock up and cause caliper problems like sticking and rusting. Also check to see is the check engine light is on, sometimes the knock sensors go bad and set it off. Neither of these problems are that expensive or hard to fix.
I've never had problems with rear calipers, yea they can stick but I've never dealt with it. I've never had noises back there nor have I ever heard a lot of people saying that they create problems. Don't think that buying a 4th gen means you need to fix the rear brakes when you buy it that's crazy. You should inspect all that stuff if you can tho.
No you do not need to take of the IM to replace the knock sensor. That's bull. Dealers and mechanics go by that because the book says so. Waste of time. Everybody on here who has done it has had the IM on. You just need to get in there.
Having a mechanic would be nice but I'm not sure if you want to pay the mechanic each time you want a car inspected. Inspect the car yourself, make sure it feels good and the engine feels good. If it's a rough ride then be careful.
Those reviews are on all maxima 4th gen's and they all say the same thing about brake noise, just because your's doesn't doesn't mean that its not a common problem. The question was asked if there were common problems with the car and that is one, I never said he had to replace the rear brakes, I said to look for that problem. Also I HAVE replaced my knock sensor and I had to take the IM off, just because you found a way around it doesn't mean it's bull. The repair manuals, haynes and the fsm both tell you to take it off. Check out the site and the reviews before you go all jumping down my neck about rear brakes, he asked for common problems and I gave it to him, no need to be hostile.
Those reviews are on all maxima 4th gen's and they all say the same thing about brake noise, just because your's doesn't doesn't mean that its not a common problem. The question was asked if there were common problems with the car and that is one, I never said he had to replace the rear brakes, I said to look for that problem. Also I HAVE replaced my knock sensor and I had to take the IM off, just because you found a way around it doesn't mean it's bull. The repair manuals, haynes and the fsm both tell you to take it off. Check out the site and the reviews before you go all jumping down my neck about rear brakes, he asked for common problems and I gave it to him, no need to be hostile.
easy now. I was just stating so he didn't think he had to screw with the brakes if he buys a 4th gen. I never read that review but it's a good reference. Point was that I havn't had any problems in my car and it's not just my car. I've been in other max's and never a problem and have yet to see a thread about rear brake noise. Maybe frozen caliper or something but not noise. It was just a comment. And if you read what I wrote about the KS, yea the books say to take off the IM, ask anyone on here if they took of the IM. It's not just me, it's a fact that you do not need to take it off to access the ks on almost all years. I believe there is one exception.
Cool, I agree that he doesn't need to screw with them just check them out. And I wish I would have known how to take out the KS without having to take the IM off, that was a big pain. anyway I hope it works out for him. ***sidenote*** any tips on post #140???
Heres a new question, I've decided to do a vq35 swap and have been combing through the threads to get all the general info. I can. One question still stands out that I can not find an answer to. If you are planning this swap, wanting to t/c or s/c it and put forged heads and rods in should you also replace the crank with a forged one? Also with this setup would it be benefical to stick with the vq30 ecu or the vq35 for tuning purposes? Thanks in advance for your help
I've never heard of forged heads. The VQ30/VQ35 already have forged connecting rods
The end question is what are your ultimate HP goals?
__________________ 03 SE 4AT 242whp/238wtq
95 SE 4AT 235k Miles
I've never heard of forged heads. The VQ30/VQ35 already have forged connecting rods
The end question is what are your ultimate HP goals?
I know arias has a set of forged pistons for them along with JE, and believe it or not there is a 4.3 strocker kit (that'll cost about $8,000) all made for vq35. I did not know those stock motors came with forged rods that's awesome. My ultimate HP goals are 400+ w/o nitrious. I plan to put a t/c in that can handle up to 15 psi, I don't want to go over that because I don't want to chew through head gaskets. The forged bottom end will allow for this, I just don't know what ECU I want to put in, the old vq30 for ease of installation or the vq35 for tunability. I want to go with the vq35 ecu but i've heard horror stories with the 5th gens and not many people have done a 6th gen into a
4th so there is my dilemma. I want the vq35 but i know it won't clip up .... any suggestions. Oh and the stock crank should be ok for that amount of power right???
this might be a dumb question, but, is there any way to use the bose amps with aftermarket speakers (and an aftermarket hu)? it seems like you could save money and time by using them instead of buying an aftermarket amp and rewiring everything. if there is another thread on this please let me know.
this might be a dumb question, but, is there any way to use the bose amps with aftermarket speakers (and an aftermarket hu)? it seems like you could save money and time by using them instead of buying an aftermarket amp and rewiring everything. if there is another thread on this please let me know.
yes you need to rewire them I believe. Go to the audio forum and see if there's something in there. I know there's something else somewhere.
this might be a dumb question, but, is there any way to use the bose amps with aftermarket speakers (and an aftermarket hu)? it seems like you could save money and time by using them instead of buying an aftermarket amp and rewiring everything. if there is another thread on this please let me know.
You can use the Bose amps wth aftermarket speakers, but they will sound like crap.
It is much better to replace the speakers and the HU with aftermarket and to bypass the Bose amps altoghether.
I know arias has a set of forged pistons for them along with JE, and believe it or not there is a 4.3 strocker kit (that'll cost about $8,000) all made for vq35. I did not know those stock motors came with forged rods that's awesome. My ultimate HP goals are 400+ w/o nitrious. I plan to put a t/c in that can handle up to 15 psi, I don't want to go over that because I don't want to chew through head gaskets. The forged bottom end will allow for this, I just don't know what ECU I want to put in, the old vq30 for ease of installation or the vq35 for tunability. I want to go with the vq35 ecu but i've heard horror stories with the 5th gens and not many people have done a 6th gen into a
4th so there is my dilemma. I want the vq35 but i know it won't clip up .... any suggestions. Oh and the stock crank should be ok for that amount of power right???
I also live in Etters.
I wish I could help but I'd like to see it when you get into it.
I wish I could help but I'd like to see it when you get into it.
Dave
sweet i'm looking at getting the motor in about a month or so... Know any local yards that have a vq35 laying around.. hahaha.... I'm trying not to buy it off ebay to aviod the shipping but it doesn't look promising. Any suggestions on the ecu???
Linear Mode
