Gregory Karl L

I have an intermittent starting issue on my daughter's maxima and I thought I'd start off by cleaning all of the grounds. Can someone post a link providing information on the ground locations in the 4th gen Max? Thanks in advance.

ayc123

So I had my intermittently starting maxima towed to a repair shop where they promised to diagnose and repair the condition. I mentioned that I'd replaced the fuel pump and problem was likely crankshaft sensor. They (impatiently) "tested" it and told me "no spark" and insisted that they must replace both CKPS's as well as the Camshaft sensor and wanted $500 to do so. I asked if they could just diagnose the faulty sensor and replace it - but they refused. I had my car towed home to do it myself. Upon opening the hood I noticed a spark plug lying on side of hood-rest. Thinking they "forgot" to reinstall a plug while "testing" I first checked that, and replaced my worn plugs while I was at it. Then I replaced the camshaft sensor (easy). Now I try to start and no juice (must've drained my battery while testing). I ran the OBD and now I get more codes which did not appear before - PO 505 (intake air valve, PO 335 (x2) and PO 325 (x2) this one I had before.

My questions are the following:

1. What might have happened in the interim to get the PO 505 code?
2. Is there something the shop (or I) may have done inadvertently while diagnosing/repairing?
3. What would be involved in properly diagnosing and fixing these conditions?
4. Is this too difficult for a novice DIY guy to tackle?
4. Car needs $2000 in bodywork - is it even worth it?

I'm open to all helpful suggestions.

Thanks

boldm28

Nissan Maxima 99

Service engine light came on . I got to go for smog in a few days , I pulled the codes , its just one P0158 01/01 . I know it is the O2 sensor , I have a obd 2 which can clear the code , but it comes back after 80 or so miles

my questions

1) Can i clear the smog test if i clear the service engine light and go for the smog test or should I have to drive like 50 odd miles before the one complete A drive cycle , this is in CA

or should i get it fixed . I got a quote for 300 $

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

Get it fixed and do it yourself.

You can not pass just by clearing the codes, they know the difference.
If you do it yourself, the o2 sensor should be $100 give or take, and the removal tool is like $10-15.
Should take less than an hour, so $300 is way too high of a price IMO.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

It appears that the repair shop was taking a "shotgun" approach by replacing all the sensors at the same time and hoping that would fix the problem.

Sometimes you can get a code because the battery is run down and a part cannot get enough electrical power. Considering that the repair shop left a spark plug out, maybe they unplugged the IACV (the P0505 code) and left it unplugged, however there was no reason to do this if they knew what they are doing. But if the IACV is plugged in (all the way), then you want to measure the ohms of the IACV stepper motor windings. See page 375 in the service manual. http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1999/EC.pdf

The P0325 code is the knock sensor. It may or may not be real. This code will show up out of sympathy for the other codes. Even if you do have a bad knock sensor, it won't cause hard starting. Take care of everything else and see if this code goes away.

P0335 code is the crankshaft sensor on the flywheel. This may be your starting problem.

Can you do the work yourself? Not knowing you, I can't say for sure, but if you can replace the spark plugs, I think you can. You'll have to read the service manual and follow the directions. You need to use section EC of the manual, the link I have posted. The index is by the trouble code that Nissan calls the a DTC code. So you want to look up DTC P0505 and DTC P0335, etc.

The crankshaft sensor is pretty easy, but you have to jack up the car and work from underneath the car. The IACV valve is a bit difficult to reach, but you are working from the top. It is attached to the throttle body and you have to remove the air filter box so you can get to it, which really isn't that hard.

Is it worth it to fix the car? Only you can make that decision. With $2K in body work, that's maybe half the value of the car. If you were to have a bad IACV (nissan part # 23781-38U10), this costs between $150 and $300, depending on which store you buy it at. The crankshaft sensor (part # 23781-38U10) is about $175 at the dealer, $135 on-line. Get this part from the dealer, do not use a parts store sensor.

Fixing the car is probably cheaper than buying a new one, though.

Erics1292

i got a good deal on a 96 front end,, front bumper front grille reinforcement bar and the mubper bracket…. but my question is if the 96 front end fit on the 97,,, cus i saw there a slight diff in the bumpers..??

btw,, if your wondering why down grading parts,, i got into a front end acc a couple weeks ago.. nd found a good deal on the front parts i need but they're for a 96 i have a 97

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

https://maxima.org/showthread.php?t=35296&styleid=6
^^ guess you need to read that in reverse.
Check out the 4th gen stickies too.

Erics1292

awesome mann, lol so i actually read it in reverse.. nd for what i read I'm sure it'll fit right? .. its just that grille is ugly

ayc123

Thank you for the very thoughtful & comprehensive reply!

I believe the shop used their own plug to test for a spark, and just left it there. My originals were in when I replaced them.

2 more questions:

1. Someone suggested that the timing chain may be problematic, since the codes for both the camshaft sensor and crankshaft sensor came up in fairly rapid succession.

2. I'm having trouble locating the crankshaft sensor by the flywheel. Can you recommend any detailed diagrams or videos to help me with that?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The timing chains in the Nissan VQ engines are pretty rugged. It is rather rare for a timing chain to be bad, so i don't think this is your problem.

I don't know of any good photos or diagrams that show where the crankshaft sensor is. What you do is get under the car and remove the plastic cover from under the engine on the driver's side. Look at the engine block where the transmission bolts up to it. Think of a clock where the number 6 is the bottom. The crankshaft sensor is going to be about where the number 5 is on the radiator side of the engine.

Dasfinch

I just recently bought a 99 maxima and the doors on it have a few dents that are most likely unrepairable (atleast they would probably be expensive to fix). I've been looking at junkyards inventory to try and find a black 4th gen maxima but haven't had any luck yet. But i've seen many altimas. Does anyone know if it's possible to put a nissan altima door on a maxima? They look very similar in shape and size I just don't know if they would fit exactly.

Edit: I feel like this was a dumb question because I was just looking at some closer pictures of the two models doors and i can see some differences, but I'm also looking at infiniti i30's because i've seen them come up when searching for maxima parts and their doors also look very similar in shape and size. If anyone can give some advice it would be much appreciated.

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

I30 door, yes...altima door, no

MaxMTY

Hello All! I need some help my max presents the blinking of the O/D OFF light sometimes, it does not present any failure, and the blinking is not always just when i drive on a highway and over 60MPH, does anyone has any idea of what to check for?

Read more: http://my4thgen.org/showthread.php?p...#ixzz30xYaXMvI

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

your transmission is telling you something...listen to it! There should be some sort of "pedal dance" to get the tranny codes...get the trans codes and see what's wrong.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

First make sure that the oil in the transmission is full. Low oil can cause the light to blink.

There is a self-diagnostic built into the transmission. When you start the self-diagnostic, the O/D light will blink out a code.

The self-diagnostic is in the Nissan FSM, the AT (Automatic Transaxle) section. The link is below. The diagnostic starts on page 49.

Automatic Transaxle section

Here is a link to the complete service manual:
1999 Maxima Service Manual

mixybro4

I have been working on my friends 1999 Maxima and he recently did some brake work, new front calipers, rotors, pads. I came over to help him bleed it. I bled it with the car on in the order RR, LR, FR, FL. I bled the hell out of it, and all it would do is eventually build up pressure after pumping and if you held it in, it would all go away, but at first it goes straight to the floor, and if you let it sit for like 5 seconds. I went and rechecked all the bleeder screws to make sure nothing was leaking, I found no leaks anywhere. Bled it again and same problem. I assumed the M/C was bad, put a new one in after bench bleed, and no luck. Same problem. I then unplugged the vacuum line to the booster and plugged it, pump the pedal once and it has quite a bit of pressure, second time and its solid as a rock, if the pedal is held down the pressure stays. Tried to drive it like this but unfortunately my friend is not strong enough to brake without the booster. Plug the booster back in and immediately the pedal goes to the floor. I am skeptical over whether or not it is the booster because the pedal is not hard to push when the booster is plugged into the vacuum. Does anyone have any ideas?

Blassmasta

'99 SE 5 Speed.

What sort of interchangeability is there (if any) for the Canister vent valve? I believe Nissan changed a bunch of stuff on the '99 and I think much of this carried over into 2000 and beyond.

The reason I ask - 99's are getting few and far between but there are plenty of 5th gens still around being parted out. I need the harness connector that plugs into the valve (one of my wires broke off right at the connector). Quick cut and splice but it's not such an easy part to find. Will any year other than '99 plug into my valve?

Thanks!

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

If you are talking about the valve that is bolted to the charcoal EVAP canister, then the answer is YES, the 5th gen uses the same connector as the 4th gen. The colors of the wires are even the same - blue/yellow stripe and orange/blue stripe.

However...

Nissan reversed the colors of the wires in the connection. On your 99, pin 1 is the orange/blue wire. On the 5th gen, orange/blue is pin 2. So when you solder the wires, cross the colors.

hockeyjock587

Hello, this is my first post so I'll try my best...Here goes.


I have been working on my 1995 Max with help from maxima.org for a while now. Definitely my favorite site for advice!


Anyways, when I bought my Max, it would blow the fuel pump fuse every once in a while, especially when it had sat for a day or two, and seemed worse when it was cold this winter. Recently, (2 weeks ago) it started blowing fuses more often, and now some times repeatedly blows the fuse, sometimes will drive 100 miles without. I finally bought a 15 amp circuit breaker and wired it into the fuse panel because it was costing too much in replacing fuses!
So I have been trying to find a short in the wiring for about a week now. Everything seems fine from the fuel pump to the front of the driver's side door (before the loom of wires heads up under the dash), and seems fine from the fuse panel to the relay. The only places I haven't traced the wires (with a transmitter/receiver by the way) is where the looms of wires head up under the dash and behind the firewall to the left side of the steering wheel.
At one point I ended up frying, and replacing, the fuel pump relay behind the ABS control unit. I ended up cranking on the starter again for too long and I'm sure I fried something else. Now the circuit breaker that I installed in place of the fuse does not pop out, and the relay does not click on and off when I turn the key to ACC. The relay tests ok, and there is continuity through the circuit breaker.
I have read that the ECU controls the fuel pump relay grounding, so I am wondering if I might have fried something in the ECU. Can anyone give me some information on how the ECU controls the ground, and what may be causing my problem? (is there a dropping resistor or anything else in the ECU that might have fried?)


A little more info:
-Only code that shows on a scanner is PO325 (knock sensor)
-Relay shows 12V on 3 sides (before and after coil [Blk/pink & Brn], and on Blk/Wht), but nothing on the Blk/Yellow coming out of the high current side.
-Also, this car has the connector in the trunk by the tail light for an Fuel Pump Control Module, but there isn't an FPCM or dropping resistor present.


Please help! I'm running out of ideas.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The fuel pump control module and dropping resistor were only used in cars built for California emissions.

As for the relay, 2 of the pins should have 12 volts on them when the ignition switch is on.
Pin 1, a brown wire, comes from 10 amp fuse # 17 to power the relay energizing coil.
Pin 3, a black/white stripe wire, comes from 15 amp fuse # 32 to power the fuel pump. This is the one you put the circuit breaker on.

Pin 2, a black/pink stripe wire, gets connected to ground by the ECU to energize the relay. When this wire is not grounded, you will read the 12 volts from the fuse.

Pin 5, a black/yellow stripe wire, sends the 12 volts from pin 3 to the fuel pump when the ECU grounds pin 2 and energizes the relay.

From the voltage readings you got, it is apparent that the relay is not getting energized. However the why is not so easy. Since the relay is not getting energized, the circuit breaker will never trip as the power is not getting to the fuel pump.

One thing you may not be aware of is that when the engine is not running, the ECU will not energize the fuel pump relay. However, there is one small but important exception to that statement. Without it, the fuel pump would never supply gas to allow the car to start. That exception is when you first turn the ignition key on. The ECU will ground pin 2 on the relay to energize the fuel pump relay for about 2 seconds. If the ECU does not get a signal from the crankshaft sensor at the flywheel after 2 seconds, the ECU will remove the ground from pin 2 and de-energize the relay.

So to see if the ECU is working, you have to monitor pin 2 of the relay, the black/pink stripe wire, and see if that stay at ground for about 2 seconds when you turn the ignition key on.

The fact that you don't hear the relay click could be one of several things. One of them is expecting it to energize (click) when you turn the key to the ACC position. The relay will only energize when the key is in the ON or START positions. Otherwise, you could have a bad relay in spite of what you think, you could have a bad ECU, you could have an open in the wire between the relay pin 2 and the ECU or you could have a relay that doesn't make noise. You could swap the fuel pump relay with any other relay that is the same color. I would borrow one of the horn relays as they are not critical to the car running.

A note about circuit breakers. A circuit breaker can only be tripped so many times. There is no definite number of times, but each time it trips, it gets a little weaker. The next time it trips, it happens with a little less amperage than it is rated for. If it happens enough times, eventually it will start popping with very little current flow.

Personally, I think your original problem is a bad fuel pump, not a wiring problem. You can try removing the fuel pump relay and putting a jumper in pins 3 an 5 of the socket, the black/white stripe and the black/yellow stripe wire. This should allow you to start the car.

Cranking the engine for long periods won't damage anything except the starter or battery. And that would only be if they were in bad shape.

hockeyjock587

Thanks for the great info DennisMik! I guess I was wrong in explaining that I had the key in ACC, when I actually was turning it to ON. When the fuel pump does it's initial charge when I turn the key to the ON position is when the fuel pump fuse usually blows. Sometimes if I can reset the breaker a few times then start it, it would keep running without tripping the breaker, but not any more.


Also, I have had the fuse blow with the fuel pump disconnected (before I put the circuit breaker in), but lately, it will not trip the breaker with the fuel pump disconnected...haha stupid electrical problems!


But thank you so much for the explanations! You have confirmed some of my theories and given me more info that I need!


I think tomorrow I will mess with that black/pink wire some more (I gator-clipped that straight to ground and it at least pops the breaker every time). I am going to try that again, but with the fuel pump disconnected again and see what I get. Also, I will try to monitor it for the 2 initial seconds with the fuel pump connected, but lately it pops the circuit breaker every time before the 2 seconds is up.


After that I am going to call the auto parts store and see when I can get a fuel pump. Cheap enough fix and I may need a new one soon anyways. Honestly I hope that is the problem.


Then, I am going to take the entire dash off so I can trace the black/pink wire to the ECU (because it follows the whole loom of wires above the fuse box, then back down to the CPU [I think]). If I take the dash off I will also be able to trace the White/black wire and Brown wire easier and make sure neither of them are open. It might also be easier to get the ECU unbolted from its position and get information off of it, or troubleshoot the ECU.


Anyways, Thanks again for the info! I feel I have a leg to stand on now and the info you provided makes me feel better about what to do next. Please if reading this gives you any more clues, post whatever you're thinking!!! Here's to a long day tomorrow! Glad I just played my first softball games of the season tonight and I will be hardly able to move while working on this!


Cheers!

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Whenever an electrical device is initially given power, it draws much more current then when it is finally on/running. This is called start up surge. Motors are probably the worst for start up surge. They are almost like a short circuit. But the amount of time is very short and fuses are designed to not blow for that small amount of time. Circuit breakers will take even longer than a fuse before it trips. But if something is bad and draws too much current, then the fuse should blow.


If the fuse blows with the fuel pump disconnected, it would seem that the fuel pump is not the problem. Or not the ONLY problem. Most of the time, wiring shorts are constant, but not always. I can't recall off the top of my head how the wires are routed back to the fuel tank. I was always concerned that the rear seat bottom cushion might sit on the wire harness.


This is a good point to unplug the fuel pump motor at the gas tank to see if the circuit breaker still trips.


One thing you might want to check if you haven't already would be to look on the bottom of the fuel pump relay socket and make sure nothing got up in the wires that could cause a short.

Good luck getting the ECU out. I wanted to take mine out and wasn't able to, even after taking the dash out. If you haven't taken the dash out before, here is a how-to I made when I took my 97 dash out.

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...dashboard.html

hockeyjock587

Thanks Dennis! Kind of ironic, I had stumbled on your article before, and that article was the inspiration I had for taking my dash panel off. Without reading that, I don't know if I would have been willing to tackle the job.


Well, I slept in a little, got breakfast, still sore from ball, but here I go!

hockeyjock587

Well, I didn't end up taking the whole dash off and instead tried to cheat. I put a toggle switch between the black/pink wire and a chassis ground. It worked to start the car, but when I would drive in reverse and try to back it out of the garage, when I hit a small incline, the car would die.
This lead me to believe that the fuel pump was not able to keep up when under a little bit of a load, so this morning I put a new fuel pump in. Not the problem. It acted the same way under a little load, so I took the toggle switch out to see if the computer ground/new fuel pump combo would work. Nope. It is back to not energizing the fuel pump with the key in the ON position, and will not start.
I am back to thinking that it is either the CPU or the black/pink wire between the ECM and relay, or a wire from ECM to ground.
Do you know where the CPU goes to ground?


I found a new ECM on eBay for $90 and ordered it. It had the same number (A18-E11-ER1) as mine and said it would work with an Automatic GLE/SE/GXE. Hope I don't have to get it reprogrammed and it works.


I took mine out, took the covers off front and back and couldn't find anything obviously burned, although it could be inside an IC or other component.


By the way, when taking the ECM out, take the small Phillips screws out of front and back of the ECM that connect the ECM to the mounting bracket. Don't try to un-bolt the ECM bracket from the floor. After the screws are out, you'll need to un-bolt the wire harness from the ECM before the ECM will come out.


Anyways, I'm hoping the new (used) ECM will work, but incase it doesn't, does anybody have any information where the ECM runs wires to ground? Also, the route that the black/pink wire takes to the ECM?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

You can check continuity of a wire without knowing (or really caring) how the wire is routed. In the case of the black/pink wire for the fuel pump relay, you connect one lead from your ohmmeter to the wire at the relay end and the other ohmmeter lead to the wire at the ECU end, which is pin 11. You should unplug the wire harness connectors at both ends when you do a continuity test.

See page 88 in section EC of the Nissan service manual for the pinouts of the ECU connector.
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1995/EC.pdf
The view shown on page 88 is looking at the connector of the ECU or the wire harness connector while plugged into the ECU.

I don't have a schematic of the ECU itself, Nissan works hard to make sure the common person doesn't get it. But the ECU applies ground to the black/pink wire internally within the ECU itself. It most likely uses a transistor to accomplish this.

While you have connected a switch to jumper the black/pink wire to ground, I advise against that. If Nissan is using a transistor in one of the STA509A IC's to do this, grounding the black/pink wire through an external switch is probably OK. But if they are doing it another way, you could be damaging something in the ECU.

In an earlier post I said to remove the fuel pump relay and put a jumper in the relay socket between pins 3 & 5. This jumper would be bypassing the relay and sending 12 volts to the fuel pump. This would be safer than grounding the black/pink wire. You could get by without using a switch as long as you don't leave the car sitting there and not running with the ignition key turned on.

I have to admit that I don't know what is wrong. From what you have done, it seems safe to rule out the fuel pump. The ECU is a very low failure rate item, but it is possible. Your experience backing up the car and having the engine die could be the MAF or the ECTS or the FPR, maybe even a plugged fuel filter. But needing to use the jumper on the black/pink wire in order to get the engine to start is, as far as I know, unrelated to any of those other parts being bad.

hockeyjock587

Hey thanks again, Dennis! I've got a couple hours, so I am going to go do a continuity test on that black/pink right now. Thanks for that Engine Control Service Manual link. I have not yet found that, and every pinout diagram that I could find for this car seemed to be the wrong year or something else different about it. At least I'll be able to check if it's good from one end to the other before tearing everything apart.
I'll also try that jumper again and see how that goes. I believe that worked before, and depending on how it works, I could do that again to drive it around and troubleshoot that fuse blowing again.


Thanks again!

Skyline109

Hey guys my name is Mike and I'm from New Jersey. I've been obsessed with cars since I was 4 and have been working on cars by myself since I was 15. I'm inheriting my dad's old 1998 Nissan Maxima. It has 180k miles on it and is (sadly) an automatic. He did all maintenance that was required Including transmission fluid changes but he had been running a 100-wet shot for a while. Can anyone give me a rough estimate of how much life is left in it? It's in beautiful condition physically I just want assurance it'll last. I've heard some bad things about these transmissions.

nestorlugo

iTrader: (11)

Your guess is as good as the gurus on here i would guess! But 180k on a vq well or fairly mantained is the equivalent of a 30 yr old man on a 60 yr life expectancy if i put it in perspective....:1/2waythere: smilie

-BoneZ-

Hello, everyone. Getting ready to buy my first Maxima:

http://fortwayne.craigslist.org/cto/4485248824.html


Car has 203,000 miles, but he said he put a BRAND NEW motor in it at 120,000, so the motor currently has about 83,000 on it according to him. He says it runs and drives great, shifts great. Check engine light is on due to an oxygen sensor (will verify with my OBD-II scanner).

Very little rust, black leather, sunroof, everything (except spoiler which I can put on later). Hopefully it has fog lights as well.

I did a VIN check (not Carfax), and looks like the high miles are due to highway driving. Whoever owned the car first put 77,500 miles on it just in the first 3 years, and another 21,000 just one year later.

Anyway, I guess the only thing I'm worried about is the longevity of the transmission with those high of miles. I'll make sure the fluid is good, and if not, do a fluid replacement (not flush) as soon as possible.

Is there anything that I need to look for or be aware of when going to look at this car? I've been doing a lot of reading around these forums for the past couple days, and have my heart set on a Maxima in this range of years due to their reliability and dependability.

Oh, and is the OBD-II port located under the steering wheel like most other vehicles?

Thanks for reading and responding.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Looking at your first post, and especially seeing that your problem is/was intermittent, I would suggest cleaning all your ground points. Any wire in the engine bay you see attaching to the body or engine is a ground point.

While you can use the FSM to find all the ground points, here are some of them off the top of my head;

On the passenger fender, around the windshield washer coolant filler neck, you should find 2 wires (not quite next to each other) screwed into the fender. That's them.

On the engine timing cover, above the belts, halfway to the top there should be another one.

On or around the front valve cover (the pretty thing labelled NISSAN 3000) there should be 2 right next to each other. Maybe you have to take the valve cover off to see them. These 2 ground the fuel injection wiring.

That's all I can remember. While you're at it, you may want to add a grounding kit. You can buy one or make your own, like I did. I just bought a bunch of battery cables and added connections all over the engine bay; engine to passenger fender, engine to firewall, tranny to drivers side fender etc.

Of course it goes without saying that you should do all this work with the battery dis-connected I got lazy once and didnt bother while doing electrical work and blew my bose system out. An hours investigation found that the Bose system protected itself and blew the fuse in the engine compartment. Thank god. Electrical issues are a nightmare to find and fix.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Right next to lake michigan, so rust rust rust is the enemy. I know you've checked before, but check again, especially the radiator support;

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...nt-photos.html

No worries on the tranny, especially since its done alot of highway driving. The flowing air kept the radiator cooling properly which in turn kept the tranny fluid cool. Go ahead and do the fluid replacement and it will keep going and going. The manual states that you can use Nissan D-matic or Dexron III. Dexron III is specified for the power steering too. I would change that as well.

Yes. Standard OBD-II port.

-BoneZ-

Thanks for your response. I have a couple more questions:

Is it possible to see the radiator support without taking off the cover under the bumper/engine? Also, is there a way to tell if the engine has actually been replaced if he doesn't produce the documentation?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The GLE model had fog lights as standard equipment.

The OBD port is to the left of the steering column, just to the right of the fuse panel.

-BoneZ-

I did end up buying the car and will pick it up later once my ride gets off of work. The interior is pretty clean, everything seems to work. Very little body rust.

The radiator support is rusty and starting to flake/rot around the motor support bolts, but it's not too bad right now. Gotta find someone to give me a quote on and to do the labor. Thank goodness the radiator support itself is only $140.

Other than that, the engine seemed to run fine and transmission shifted smoothly. The transmission fluid was a maroon-red-ish, slightly light-brown-ish (I'm color blind, so meh).

Now, just gotta get the car cleaned up, get some nicer wheels, and throw a paint job on the thing.



This may not be a GLE then (didn't even bother to look), but it had no fog lights. It's got the standard bumper cover that gets put on when the car does not have fog lights installed. No biggie. I was going to rewire them anyway, so I'll just put my own on.


Yep, found it. It had 2 codes: "knock sensor" and "oxygen sensor" (didn't get the code number cuz I just glanced at them). He said he's been running regular (87) fuel in it, but when I go pick it up, I'm putting 91 in it. Hopefully the knock sensor code will go away? (doubtful )

I'll post some pics as soon as I pick it up so I can have "before" pics before I do the wheels and paint job.

-BoneZ-

Too bad I missed this before I bought the car. Looks like I'm leaking around the rear main seal. Seeping around the two bolts, behind the thin plate (whatever that could be), and right where the engine and tranny come together.

In the first 3 images, I took pictures of where it looked like it was leaking. Then for the last two pictures, I wiped the area down, started the car and let it run for about 5-10 while I was under it so I could see the seepage for myself.

Since this is going to be an expensive fix, and I don't have the money to fix it, my only other option is to re-sell the car that I just bought.

Unless someone has got some other advice. I'd like to keep the car, but the purpose of buying it is to drive it. I'm not sure if I should be driving around with it leaking that bad. I checked the engine and tranny fluids right after taking these pics, and they both were fine.

-BoneZ-

After posting the above I was doing some searching around the forum, and it appears that my oil leak is from the upper oil pan instead. Does everyone concur?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Good luck with the car.

boldm28

After my mechanic cleared codes , I drove around 150 miles and it stll shows that my 02 sensor and my CAT sensor is not in the ready position, how do i get it to show ready

http://www.lyberty.com/car/drive-cycle_maxima.html

i searched on the web and here is what i found for CAT

what I do to complete it is this. Start the engine. Hold the rpms at 2500 rpms for 3 mins. Then let off the gas completely for 5 seconds, then rev back up to 2500 and hold it again for 5 mins this time. That normally completes Catt Converter.

for O2

with 02 sensor, you will just need to drive it at a steady speed around 55 mph for like 10 to 20 mins and it normally completes.

will this do the trick ?

ShaunDon

I am real new to the forums so don't be too rude but here's the issue
I have 2 problems for one my maxima's speedometer has a habit of going crazy while I am driving. Most of the time when its hot it won't come on at all. Its really annoying more than anything but eventually it will come back to life.
Second problem is I believe there is a leak in my radiator but I'm not sure. My car overheats sometimes and when it does I just simply stop mycar to avoid any real damage to the car. It smokes behind the engine sometimes too. I want to know how to identify if there is a leak in my radiator and what else I can do to ensure my car stays up and running good.
Also any advice on what to stay updated on as far as maintenance to get better performance out of my car.

Ipbc69

I have a 99 Maxima that blew the head gaskets, actually my son's driving did, and the repair bill from the shop was out of this world. I bought a used engine from a 95 and did the swap. My 99 has a 5 speed and was running before the head gaskets blew. The 95 engine was running before it came out of the other car. With all parts and pieces in place after the swap, the final step was to connect the ground lead. Noticed tiny arching as I attached neg. lead but thought it normal for a little spark as the circuit completed.

Inserted key and turned ignition. Nothing... No lights, action or camera. By nothing, I mean nothing, all was dark and no cranking.

Disconnected neg. lead from battery and tested for short circuit. I have continuity from the negative lead to the positive lead.

I hate electrical but am good at following directions...Could this be a bad ignition switch?

Thank you for any information.