NOOBIES: "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread. Read FIRST post BEFORE posting!

[TNation]

On my 1998 Nissan Maxima SE, I have a Check Engine Soon light that went on. It indicates that my Air Intake Sensor (code 142 i believe) is too blame. How do I remove this stupid code and fix the problem? I have an ecu register which tells me what the code is and I can reset the ecu, but everytime the ecu is reset, the code reappears 3 minutes later... any help would be greatly appreciated!

[Cdg2125]

Originally Posted by TNation

On my 1998 Nissan Maxima SE, I have a Check Engine Soon light that went on. It indicates that my Air Intake Sensor (code 142 i believe) is too blame. How do I remove this stupid code and fix the problem? I have an ecu register which tells me what the code is and I can reset the ecu, but everytime the ecu is reset, the code reappears 3 minutes later... any help would be greatly appreciated!

did you look in the stickies yet? There should be an explanation. Also, fix the problem and the code won't come back every 3 minutes. I'm sure you just need a new AIS.

[KRRZ350]

Originally Posted by padudley

ok, im glad you double checked!! the car is the SE model, but im not sure what model the new ecu that i brought came out of. The guy told me at the junkyard that it would work, he said his parts interchanger confirmed it would work for my car. Nissan told me that I need the exact part number to match in order for everything to work properly. with that electronic engine mount code being thrown, would that cause the engine to not run?? i scanned the computer for any code and it came back with the crank sensor and camshaft position sensor, replaced both.

No that wouldn't cause the car not to run. Both of those sensors have two things in common though which will help make your diagnosis easier possibly......

#1, Both crankshaft sensors (there is two, ref and pos, with seperate codes) and the camshaft sensor code can all be tripped by dificult starting, problems with the starting system itself, etc.

#2, they both share the same ground. On the upper intake manifold, remove the 2 10mm bolts, pry apart all the ground straps, sand and clean all sides & the upper intake, and bolt them back up.

If you don't have any starting issues, and after cleaning the grounds you still have the codes, download the FSM on Phatg20.net and refer to the EC section for your specific code and the entire steps to trouble shoot it.

[TNation]

Originally Posted by Cdg2125

did you look in the stickies yet? There should be an explanation. Also, fix the problem and the code won't come back every 3 minutes. I'm sure you just need a new AIS.

what is an AIS? and i can't figure out what the problem is and it IS NOT in the stickies

[Cdg2125]

Originally Posted by TNation

what is an AIS? and i can't figure out what the problem is and it IS NOT in the stickies

Air Intake Sensor. You sure you have the correct code? There is no code 142

[KRRZ350]

Originally Posted by nimmy

Ok, I posted the other day about a tranny prob, I had added fluid/it was running worse. I worked on the ac too and got it working/hadnt been running it prior. So... the verdict is, the stalling I'm experiencing/rpms going up and down where caused BECAUSE I had the ac on, BECAUSE ... maybe the alternator is going out? It has a new battery. Doesn't seem to do it when I blast the radio too much but messes with me when I roll down my windows, also the belts squeeking. Anyone have any ideas?

-Atleast I think its the belt, it does it every rotation quietly/etc. But I was noticing problems with shifting a little/power steering firming up when letting off the gas and tightening when pushing down. Lights dimming as rpms lower... etc.

If anyone can narrow it down I'd be greatful.

Check your belts first, and adjust/replace if nescassary. You could have an alternator problem, however it sounds to me like a possible problem with the ficd/iacv valve. the fast-idle control device; which is built into the idle air control valve; raises the idle during a/c operation, high electrical load, and power-steering operation. You can use the search feature to research cleaning your iacv valve, I'm not going to bother going into that, also inspect the hoses going to/from it. It also might just need an idle adjustment, black plastic screw located on iacv. To adjust/check proper idle speed on an automatic drive around for 10-15 minutes, then with the car in park make sure your a/c, radio, lights, etc are all OFF, idle speeed should be 650 rpms. If it's not use the black plastic screw on the iacv valve to adjust it. Also, while idling at 650, if the ficd is working properly if you use any accessories, like turning the steering wheel for example, the idle should dip down for just a second then rise back to 650 again (+/- 50 rpms)
You'll notice I link people to phatg20.net alot, the FSM is your freind

[TNation]

the error code its P0110

[KRRZ350]

Yup, that is IAS

[Cdg2125]

Originally Posted by TNation

the error code its P0110

Ok I knew there was a different code. So yes that is in the stickies. The problem can be caused from a few things. Incorrect voltage could be the problem. The harness or connectors could be shorted and causing a problem. Or the IATS could be bad all together. So you need to test the IATS.

Disconnect the harness from the IATS and connect a voltmeter to the terminals. With the ignition in the ON position there should be 5.0 V. If the reading is wrong you need to check the wiring between the IATS and the PCM.
The other way to do it is check the ohms on the terminals when the engine is cold. Then warm the engine to operating temp and turn it off. Then check the ohms again.
Resistance values should be ...
- at 14 degrees F, 7.0-11.4 Kohms
- at 68 degrees F, 2.1-2.9 Kohms
- at 176 degrees F, 0.27-0.38 Kohms

If things are not correct you need a new IATS.

[padudley]

if i remove the coilpack and the plug, should i be able to see the fire from the plug?? I can feel the shock, but i cant see the fire. please respond asap!!

[NmexMAX]

[

Originally Posted by padudley

if i remove the coilpack and the plug, should i be able to see the fire from the plug?? I can feel the shock, but i cant see the fire. please respond asap!!

Removing the coilpack will remove the firing mechanism. BTW, what exactly are you trying to do?

[padudley]

Originally Posted by NmexMAX

[
Removing the coilpack will remove the firing mechanism. BTW, what exactly are you trying to do?

im trying to see whether or not the car is firing. if i remove the coilpack and the plug, then turn the car over, should the fire be physically visible or should it just be able to be felt

[unclpaule]

hey guys. I just recently put new struts and shocks on. Also, new stablizer bar links and bushings. Though the handling has improved, the car still shutters over medium sized cracks in the road. Am I expecting too much or do y'all think something else is the matter? Control arm bushings? Balljoint LOOKS fine since the rubber isn't damaged in any way. The car does have 180,000 miles on it. Could it be tires? Thanks for any input.

[KRRZ350]

Originally Posted by padudley

im trying to see whether or not the car is firing. if i remove the coilpack and the plug, then turn the car over, should the fire be physically visible or should it just be able to be felt

Stick one finger in the coil-pack, and make sure to firmly hold onto the car while an assistant cranks the engine over, if you post back here screaming about how I'm such an a-hole and that 70k volts hurts than we'll know your ignition system is working You can remove the coil and insert a plug and make sure that it is always touching metal while someone else cranks to look for spark, otherwise you can do damage to the coil-pack or ecu. On a side note, checking for spark isn't the first place to start, try scanning the codes first, it's in the stickies.

[KRRZ350]

Originally Posted by unclpaule

hey guys. I just recently put new struts and shocks on. Also, new stablizer bar links and bushings. Though the handling has improved, the car still shutters over medium sized cracks in the road. Am I expecting too much or do y'all think something else is the matter? Control arm bushings? Balljoint LOOKS fine since the rubber isn't damaged in any way. The car does have 180,000 miles on it. Could it be tires? Thanks for any input.

Control arm bushings are common to go on 4th gens. inspect them, get a big arse mo fo pry bar and check for play, cracks, etc.

[andy930]

I have a 1995 Maxima SE, I just purchased it and noticed that the RPM gauge doesn't work sometimes it goes really high or sometimes it is still, also the Odometer goes up about a mile for every 20 or so miles it's driven, so it is basicly broken moving very slowly. I am wondering if the instrument cluster may be bad, or if it could be a sensor or something. This is my third maxima but have never seen this before. Any suggestions would be highly appreciated.

[KRRZ350]

Originally Posted by andy930

I have a 1995 Maxima SE, I just purchased it and noticed that the RPM gauge doesn't work sometimes it goes really high or sometimes it is still, also the Odometer goes up about a mile for every 20 or so miles it's driven, so it is basicly broken moving very slowly. I am wondering if the instrument cluster may be bad, or if it could be a sensor or something. This is my third maxima but have never seen this before. Any suggestions would be highly appreciated.

Do you have aftermarket white face gauges?

[andy930]

Originally Posted by KRRZ350

Do you have aftermarket white face gauges?

I have the stock white guages, I am pretty sure they are stock on the 95 SE.

[KRRZ350]

Yes but I just wanted to double check since the aftermarket ones can stick, rather safe than sorry. Anyways, the speedometer and tachometer don't share a sensor in common, however the do share the same ground & power supply circuits. The first step I would take is to remove the gauge cluster and double check that the two screws on the back haven't loosened up, you will see the ones I'm talking about, it's common for them to loosen up as well so I've heard. If they are ok and you have a digital multimeter I can help you further.

[andy930]

Originally Posted by KRRZ350

Yes but I just wanted to double check since the aftermarket ones can stick, rather safe than sorry. Anyways, the speedometer and tachometer don't share a sensor in common, however the do share the same ground & power supply circuits. The first step I would take is to remove the gauge cluster and double check that the two screws on the back haven't loosened up, you will see the ones I'm talking about, it's common for them to loosen up as well so I've heard. If they are ok and you have a digital multimeter I can help you further.

Thank you much for the info, I hope to be able to check this soon.

[Aeiou]

Hey Guys-

I've got a 1995 Max SE

I didn't get a key fob with it, but from what I've read about the packages, it sounds like it came with it from the factory (has security system, lighted mirrors, power trunk release). My sister has a 95 infiniti J30 and I got the impression that they used the same fob, so I tried programing her extra remote for my car using the instructions in the stickies. It didn't work. I got it into the mode to enter the code with the fob (hazards blinked twice) but it would not accept the code (hazards didn't blink again). Any thoughts? If this isn't the right remote, how can I make sure I get one that will work? I looks like the same fob I've seen on ebay for maximas....

FYI, I've been searching around, but couldn't find anything that really helped, so please don't jump on me about searching

Thanks

[KRRZ350]

If it looks exactly like the maxima ones it should work, is the battery dead? If the battery is good then just get one from a max/I30

[Red Lion]

got another n00bish question, though I'm not sure if it belongs here or elsewhere:

how long (tall) are 4th gen exhaust manifolds compared to 6th gen manifolds? taller? shorter? same size?

I'm trying to mount a VQ in another car and it looks like the manifolds sit lower than the oil pan, and in fact lower than the crossmember. Don't want my downpipe bottoming out!

[KRRZ350]

The manifolds on a 4th gen are very very short, I don't know how they compare to the 6th gen, but on a 4th gen the flanges are about even with the top of the upper oil-pan, if not a little higher.

[padudley]

alright guys...95 max se, wont start. the codes that the ecu shows are 0903, 0807, 0402, and 0803. none of which should cause the engine not to start. i've changed the plugs twice because they had been fouled out. the first time i got new plugs it was because the gas was bad. the car had been sitting for almost two years and the gas had lost its octane rating. so i got the gas out and changed the plugs. All six cylinders and coilpacks are firing, but when i remove the plugs after trying to start the engine, the plugs are still wet. when i try to start the engine, it sounds like its really trying to start, but it "catches" like every 3 seconds. It does it so "military-like" as if its following some kind of cadence. I dont know if I still have bad gas in the tank, or is the "cadence" a timing issue, or is something else wrong. the car only throws those codes, which i thought had nothing to do with the engine running properly, please help me immediately, my jeep had an electrical fire today and this is my only other option!! thanks any help would be greatly appreciated. oh, might i add, two years ago when we parked the car, it was because the computer (ecu) had gone bad. that has sinced been replaced, but not with the exact same part number. My ecu number is: A18-B42-EL1 from a 1995 Nissan Maxima SE, the ecu that was put in this car is: A18-C85-EY1 and I think that comes out of a 1996 Maxima. Would that make any difference??

[KRRZ350]

0402 could very well be the culprit, if the malfunction with the egrc-bpt is applying vacuum to the egr valve, therefore opening it, at idle or during starting the car will stall/not start.

The other codes are just related to the evap system because you have a fed-spec '95 se that doesn't have alot of the evap stuff that the ecu from the '96 thinks should be there.