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Wow I've been reading all your posts and I'm still scratching my head
You've got a complex problem haha
But the only thing that have been bothering me is that ONE Bosch spark plug, which might be the cause of the knock.
Also I agree with Pmohr I remembered reading a lot about failing coil packs causing the same problems.
This is painfully obvious but has the car been filled with 91 Octane gas, lower octane will probably not cause a knock for you to notice but its worth a shot checking.
I filled it first time with 87 and decarbonizer soon after then added 10 gallons of Shell 91 to fill it up the last time and still doing it. Who knows what that guy prior to me put in it but I wanted it clean(er).
I purchased a few coil packs from MOHF in the sale forums. Hopefully here in 2 days. Only 1 rear new coming but I can play find the faulty coil.
I've seen it posted before about disconnecting coil packs from the wiring to see if its the coil but is that good for the system and my health/safety? Since the missing was happening much more this morning it may be easier to diagnose which of the coils is dead or dying, if any are at all.
I may take off the KS just to see if it's cracked in any form. I'll scour car parts for cheap ones if I can grab it then it'll get replaced but from reading about the sensor it really doesn't matter. Retarding the timing wouldn't cause any misfire issues even if I'm running 87 unleaded, correct? The retardation (if any right now) is just a safety measure if the computer thinks that the KS is out as far as I've read. In fact, the KS retards the timing period if it is knocking at all.
Your using that AWD system from the GT-R right...thats so easy to do, it all bolts right in.
Of course, R35 AWD FTW, it's just that the overflow tube hits the headers on my LS6. Might have to swap back to the B18 to correct that, and I liked the massive amounts of torque anyway.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bushd
Seems my car shakes more now and when at lower (sub-1000) rpms.
A general question kind of related to my current issues:
When the ECU spits a knock code that doesn't mean its dead necessarily, it could be tripped from serious knocking?
If the ECU self diag spits a knock and I reset it, I fixed said issue, would the OBD ii spit the knock code too? OBD ii only read a knock code and not the other that self-diag. did. The self-diag isn't showing knock since I reset it and fixed the issue. Issue was leaving the coil pack unplugged.
The only way I'm aware of that a KS code can be thrown is for a bad circuit, or bad signal. IIRC it won't throw the code if it detects knock, but not certain on that.
So the OBD-II reader wasn't reading any code other than the KS? That's...interesting.
90% of the time, an OBD-II scan and the ECU self-diagnosis should read exactly the same. There have been a few reported incidents of them differing, though.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
pmohr you mentioned grabbing coils from junkyards but is that a luck of the draw or are you testing them on site somehow? I mean besides sticking them in your car, if that is the case.
If you clear the ECU how long does it give before a cel will light again for the same issue? I got 0201 and 0304 or 0403 (whichever is the knock) I can't remember. I plugged in the coil that in my rush to get to work I forgot to plug in, cleared the ECU and haven't had the cel turn on again. Those two tripped the cel after I left the coil pack unplugged. Autozone OBD ii showed only one code for KS. I think I checked the ECU diag. again and got nothing but I'll try it again later to see if KS shows up.
pmohr you mentioned grabbing coils from junkyards but is that a luck of the draw or are you testing them on site somehow? I mean besides sticking them in your car, if that is the case.
If you clear the ECU how long does it give before a cel will light again for the same issue? I got 0201 and 0304 or 0403 (whichever is the knock) I can't remember. I plugged in the coil that in my rush to get to work I forgot to plug in, cleared the ECU and haven't had the cel turn on again. Those two tripped the cel after I left the coil pack unplugged. Autozone OBD ii showed only one code for KS. I think I checked the ECU diag. again and got nothing but I'll try it again later to see if KS shows up.
I don't bother testing them since in most cases they're most likely fine. Most yards have a short warranty period, though.
0304 is KS, and it won't light the CEL. A so called 'ghost code'.
As far as the CEL relighting for the same issue, depends on what it is. If it's a 'hard' error, like a component completely failed or unplugged, then usually after one drive cycle. If for something else that takes a while, like an EVAP system leak, EGR flow, etc, then it could take quite a while.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
Some new things have happened. Waiting on coils to be shipped (paid for 2nd day priority from USPS) and a cel hit when I was near home. I was hoping finally it would tell me which cylinder the coil was going out on. Actually what I got back was 0302 and 0304. EGR is high or low and KS. Would a misfiring/dying coil cause the EGR to have issues since it is dumping gas? My guess is the EGR would be low if that was the case as there is less gas and more liquid entering exhaust from cylinders.
Really starting to misfire/shake now and I think the performance is starting to take a hit, noticable atleast.
It could be an egr obstruction and I was planning on cleaning the TB tonight but it seems to be getting late and if I was going that far I'd hit the EGR, maf, etc. Any idea on time for dismantling and reassembly for cleaning?
Any ideas on whether the EGR could be the result of the bad coil and whether I should be ignoring this until the coils get here?
The LS6, by far. I'd go with an LS7 swap myself, but it's cost prohibitive.
Although if you like torque, the B18 is the way to go.
I thought you were supposed to be nice to the noobs in the noobie post
Though, I agree, the B18 is a torque monster.
__________________ 1996 Maxima GXE "My boy blue"
TS ECU|RSB|FSTB|Leather/Heated Seats|12"sub-Alpines-Rainbow SLCs-Audison SRx2|Spoiler|5.5 Gen 17's|Custom Red Clears|Viper 771|R34 TSX Retro|5th gen muffler|300zx Fuel filter
Quote:
Originally Posted by pmohr
Oh I'll show you a dingy. A reaaaaaaaaaaal small one.
I may take off the KS just to see if it's cracked in any form. I'll scour car parts for cheap ones if I can grab it then it'll get replaced but from reading about the sensor it really doesn't matter. Retarding the timing wouldn't cause any misfire issues even if I'm running 87 unleaded, correct? The retardation (if any right now) is just a safety measure if the computer thinks that the KS is out as far as I've read. In fact, the KS retards the timing period if it is knocking at all.
Honestly you're not likely to encounter knock even with 87. I've used all sorts of grades and qualities of fuel with the KS bypassed, never heard a bit.
Though I wouldn't trust a used one, you can get them BNIB on eBay for ~$25. The ~$60 ones are brand new OEM, FWIW.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
What do you think about the cel giving EGR code? I haven't opened it up yet and I just reset the cel to see what happens in the morning but the car sounded like normal (w/ bad coil) when I started it a minute ago.
Going to call Nissan dealership tomorrow (Autozone failed me) to get the new gaskets for the TB, EGR tube, and IACV when I clean out the lot tomorrow thanks to the stickied how-to section. This forum actually makes me want to work on the car rather then throw cash at it.
What do you think about the cel giving EGR code? I haven't opened it up yet and I just reset the cel to see what happens in the morning but the car sounded like normal (w/ bad coil) when I started it a minute ago.
Going to call Nissan dealership tomorrow (Autozone failed me) to get the new gaskets for the TB, EGR tube, and IACV when I clean out the lot tomorrow thanks to the stickied how-to section. This forum actually makes me want to work on the car rather then throw cash at it.
The EGR code is likely a completely blocked EGR guide tube.
Yea, Autozone doesn't seem to carry much for the A32.
If you plan on doing any other top end work like replacing valve cover gaskets, removing the UIM, etc, I'd wait on buying the gaskets locally and cleaning everything, and just order a head gasket set on eBay. ~$70 for the set, and it has everything you need to R&R the heads. IACV, EGR, TB, UIM-LIM, LIM-heads, valve cover gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets, etc.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
The EGR code is likely a completely blocked EGR guide tube.
Yea, Autozone doesn't seem to carry much for the A32.
If you plan on doing any other top end work like replacing valve cover gaskets, removing the UIM, etc, I'd wait on buying the gaskets locally and cleaning everything, and just order a head gasket set on eBay. ~$70 for the set, and it has everything you need to R&R the heads. IACV, EGR, TB, UIM-LIM, LIM-heads, valve cover gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets, etc.
As much as I'd like to overhaul the gaskets I just don't have the time for that kind of work, and 70 bucks is pushing the limits until next paycheck for everything I've purchased already. Unfortunately buying the car really wrenched my ability to tell work that I'm sick or I can't come in/X takes my hours. I'll try to take half a day off from univ. to fix the coil, replace gaskets and clean intake side components up to the TB.
I'm going to have to deal with the EGR cel until wednesday (thursday maximum) for the new coils to come in so I can take half the day off from univ. and deal with the lot of what I want to do.
I just bought a 98 Max GLE with 97k on original motor and tranny. Pretty clean and nice ride. However, when I accelerate the steering wheel feels loose towards the left side and the car will shoot forward. Even if Im turning left! When I let go of the accelerator the car will recatch the grip towards the left side and then I need to cut back to the right to steady her out. This only happens to the left side. When turning right this problem doesnt happen. I dont know what it can possible be. When driving straight it does slightly pull to the right side so a wheel alignment is probably needed but I cant imagine that this could be the cause of the pulling problem. Can anyone help explain this?!?
TO DECODE THE VIN PLATE:
Raise your hood. Look for a shiny metal identification tag fastened to the passenger side of firewall. The top row is the Vehicle Identification Number, starting with J. The second row is model information. The first five characters are BLHUL. The sixth character is the trim level designator, defined as follows:
E = GXE
G = GLE
V = SE
For the year...have you looked at your registration, title, or insurance? Failing that, every VIN on the car tells you what year, there's a production date in the door jamb, and a model year on the emissions label under the hood.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
For the year...have you looked at your registration, title, or insurance? Failing that, every VIN on the car tells you what year, there's a production date in the door jamb, and a model year on the emissions label under the hood.
Yea didn't scroll far enough, thanks. Registration, title, and insurance are all consume reported so it may not be correct. I'll def. take a look in the door jam today. Thank pmohr!
Yea didn't scroll far enough, thanks. Registration, title, and insurance are all consume reported so it may not be correct. I'll def. take a look in the door jam today. Thank pmohr!
Consumer reported? They're all based off the VIN...
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
Consumer reported? They're all based off the VIN...
Not in NC you tell the clerk what year your vehicle is for registration and when you call the insurance company, and I don't have the original title. So I don't know how that works...
my brake light on my dash came on a couple of weeks ago. i checked under my hood to see my brake fluid level and it was on the minimum line. i topped it off, and the brake light went off. since than, this happens every 3 days. could this be a leak? my front pads & rotors were changed back in september, only about ~10k on them
my brake light on my dash came on a couple of weeks ago. i checked under my hood to see my brake fluid level and it was on the minimum line. i topped it off, and the brake light went off. since than, this happens every 3 days. could this be a leak? my front pads & rotors were changed back in september, only about ~10k on them
Well it's certainly going somewhere.
Have you checked for a leak yet? It should be fairly obvious if you're losing that much in that period of time, should be a large wet spot along the lines somewhere.
If you don't see anything on the lines/hoses themselves, it's possible it's leaking back into the booster as well.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
I have been searching all day for this. I just bought a new grille for my 98' and i really really like the badge on the front of the most recent MOTM (Flava 24/7):
I have been searching all day for this. I just bought a new grille for my 98' and i really really like the badge on the front of the most recent MOTM (Flava 24/7):
Hi - I've got a 99 Maxima and retrieved a PO325 knock sensor code. The car is running rough at idle and when driving at below 2500 rpm. Could this be a result of it running in 'safe mode' or would the rough idle etc cause a PO325?
Hi - I've got a 99 Maxima and retrieved a PO325 knock sensor code. The car is running rough at idle and when driving at below 2500 rpm. Could this be a result of it running in 'safe mode' or would the rough idle etc cause a PO325?
Cheers
Are you on the original coils? If so, there's your rough idle.
Replace all of the coils, then go from there.
The KS is a common code to pop up, due to it's not lighting the CEL; it could be throwing that code forever and you wouldn't know until you pulled the codes when the CEL comes on.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
Alright yes im a noob and yes your probally going to laugh when I ask this!
Just now recently trying to keep a tight budget and save money and have never changed my own brakes lol. Was wondering if there was a site that showed step by step how to change front brakes on a 1999 nissan maxima?
It looks easy as hell.. Just need to make sure i don't mess something up..
Alright yes im a noob and yes your probally going to laugh when I ask this!
Just now recently trying to keep a tight budget and save money and have never changed my own brakes lol. Was wondering if there was a site that showed step by step how to change front brakes on a 1999 nissan maxima?
It looks easy as hell.. Just need to make sure i don't mess something up..
I tried to pull Motorvate up. But when I clicked on the Front Brakes Assembly on the page it would not pull it up. Is their site down or experiencing problems?
I tried to pull Motorvate up. But when I clicked on the Front Brakes Assembly on the page it would not pull it up. Is their site down or experiencing problems?
It would appear so.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
The problem of my potential misfiring/shaking from a bad coil pack has disappeared. It won't happen anymore and I just as of making this post got the new (minus 2 rear) set of coilpacks from another seller on here. Quite frustrating because I need it to misfire so I can figure out which of the rear, if so, is dying to replace it while I wait on the other two to come.
Any thoughts on this? A problem suddenly fixing itself is usually not really a fix. Always calm before the storm I hear.
The problem of my potential misfiring/shaking from a bad coil pack has disappeared. It won't happen anymore and I just as of making this post got the new (minus 2 rear) set of coilpacks from another seller on here. Quite frustrating because I need it to misfire so I can figure out which of the rear, if so, is dying to replace it while I wait on the other two to come.
Any thoughts on this? A problem suddenly fixing itself is usually not really a fix. Always calm before the storm I hear.
Test out all the coils with a multimeter. You're not looking for a specific value, but rather an outlier from the norm. A coil with different readings by a wide margin will most likely be your bad coil.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
Test out all the coils with a multimeter. You're not looking for a specific value, but rather an outlier from the norm. A coil with different readings by a wide margin will most likely be your bad coil.
Go figure when I get out the old fluke 77 multimeter it has some kind of short in itself.
Linear Mode
