Car stalling / Rough Idle
#1
Car stalling / Rough Idle
Hi guys, my 95 SE recently showed the CEL 53 (Front R Bank O2 Sensor). I replaced it, cleaned the TB, MAF, and Air Temp sensor. Cleared the codes and the car now stalls and dies while in motion. The RPMs fluctuate, and I now receive code 0102 (Mass Air Flow Sensor Failure) and 1104 (Improper Shifting to Second Gear Automatic Transmission). Are these codes related and what can you suggest to fix them? I am looking to replace the MAF sensor, but i have never seen a transmission code before this. Please help! Thanks so much!
#2
tranny code is probably not related. ide suggest having it checked out by a shop before anything gets worse. mass air flow sensor code could have been caused by you when you were cleaning it. if youre not careful when cleaning it you can damage the hot wire. even spraying the cleaner too close can damage it.
#6
People who dont know what they are doing. I have cleaned about 5-6 peoples from this forum alone. Only one had a high idle problem and that was because I didnt change the IAC Valve gasket. once done it purred like all the rest.
Those same folks prob used Seafoam too.
Those same folks prob used Seafoam too.
#7
ok the walk through on this site to clean the IACV is not thorough enough, it has like one pic and its from a bad angle, since u have done this many times im sure its not a big deal for u to describe this to us...
do u mind coming up with a walk through with steps and directions and maybe a few pics and parts that need to be replaced ?
the reason im asking is not because i have a surging idle, but because my idle is at 575 RPM in D, and 700 RPM (spec) in P both at op. temp obviously so i dotn want to just adjuct my IACV, i want to make sure its not obstructed
do u mind coming up with a walk through with steps and directions and maybe a few pics and parts that need to be replaced ?
the reason im asking is not because i have a surging idle, but because my idle is at 575 RPM in D, and 700 RPM (spec) in P both at op. temp obviously so i dotn want to just adjuct my IACV, i want to make sure its not obstructed
#8
How to clean TB and IAC Valve
No pics but here is a very detailed writeup that shouldn't require pictures:
Tool required:
ratchet
10m socket
12mm socket
flathead or 8mm socket
pliers or vise grips
1 can of Throttle Body cleaner
1 can of Carb cleaner (I find Berrymans B12 to work fastest)
new throttle body gasket
new IAC Valve Gasket (dealer only)
1) disconnect battery. unclip airbox, unplug MAF Sensor, use pliers to slide clamps holding hoses to airbox down and slide off hoses, use flathead or 8mm socket to loosen clamp holding air tube to throttle Body, remove 10mm socket on side of airbox holding it down and remove air intake assembly.
2) move throttle to fully open position, lift throttle cables one at a time forward and wiggle out of the TB (towards the left of the TB). Unplug 2 Throttle Position Sensor Plugs.
3) remove the 4 12mm bolts holding the TB to the plenum
4) on the bottom of the TB there will either be 2 or 3 hoses attatched. use pliers to slide clamps down and remove hoses. make sure your radiator cap is still on or engine coolant will start to flow out. If hoses have seized on, use flathead to pry the top and break the seal.
5) Remove throttle body. scrape old gasket from both surfaces. clean entire buttefly plate (both faces) and cylinder. there should be no black when done. use only tb cleaner as carb cleaner will remove teflon coating which can later lead to faster corrosion and/or deposit formation
6) locate IAC Valve (triangular unit bolted to drivers side of the plenum right in front of the firewall with a large hose that was connected to the air intake assembly) unplug all 4 plugs.
7) remove 10mm bolt holding EGR Temp Sensor plug to the IAC Valve. (hard to see so you may have to feel around the firewall side for it) It is the only plug of the 4 not directly attatched to the IAC Valve body
8) remove 3 12mm bolts holding IAC Valve to the plenum and remove IAC Valve. Remove old gasket (no need for scraping as it is a metal gasket).
9) spray/wipe the entire inside of the triangular face clean. Spray the inside of the brass housing clean of all deposits. spray base of Idle screw clean to ensure no carbon deposits remain. Be liberal with the spray.
10) replace gaskets and reassemble in reverse order. make sure when attatching the air tube to the TB you tighten the clamp. a loose clamp = a small vacuum leak that probably cant be heard but will be felt (high idle).
before reassmebling, some like to spray remaining tb cleaner/carb cleaner into the plenum to clean it up. This is usually a waste of time since oil coming from the PCV will quickly muck it up again but pooled cleaner may help clean downstream intake when you start it back up. not enough to make a bg difference but hey. If you do this, dont be alarmed by the blue smoke at startup (oil and sludge being burned off). Start the car, take it for a short run to blow any remaining cleaner out and you are done.
Tool required:
ratchet
10m socket
12mm socket
flathead or 8mm socket
pliers or vise grips
1 can of Throttle Body cleaner
1 can of Carb cleaner (I find Berrymans B12 to work fastest)
new throttle body gasket
new IAC Valve Gasket (dealer only)
1) disconnect battery. unclip airbox, unplug MAF Sensor, use pliers to slide clamps holding hoses to airbox down and slide off hoses, use flathead or 8mm socket to loosen clamp holding air tube to throttle Body, remove 10mm socket on side of airbox holding it down and remove air intake assembly.
2) move throttle to fully open position, lift throttle cables one at a time forward and wiggle out of the TB (towards the left of the TB). Unplug 2 Throttle Position Sensor Plugs.
3) remove the 4 12mm bolts holding the TB to the plenum
4) on the bottom of the TB there will either be 2 or 3 hoses attatched. use pliers to slide clamps down and remove hoses. make sure your radiator cap is still on or engine coolant will start to flow out. If hoses have seized on, use flathead to pry the top and break the seal.
5) Remove throttle body. scrape old gasket from both surfaces. clean entire buttefly plate (both faces) and cylinder. there should be no black when done. use only tb cleaner as carb cleaner will remove teflon coating which can later lead to faster corrosion and/or deposit formation
6) locate IAC Valve (triangular unit bolted to drivers side of the plenum right in front of the firewall with a large hose that was connected to the air intake assembly) unplug all 4 plugs.
7) remove 10mm bolt holding EGR Temp Sensor plug to the IAC Valve. (hard to see so you may have to feel around the firewall side for it) It is the only plug of the 4 not directly attatched to the IAC Valve body
8) remove 3 12mm bolts holding IAC Valve to the plenum and remove IAC Valve. Remove old gasket (no need for scraping as it is a metal gasket).
9) spray/wipe the entire inside of the triangular face clean. Spray the inside of the brass housing clean of all deposits. spray base of Idle screw clean to ensure no carbon deposits remain. Be liberal with the spray.
10) replace gaskets and reassemble in reverse order. make sure when attatching the air tube to the TB you tighten the clamp. a loose clamp = a small vacuum leak that probably cant be heard but will be felt (high idle).
before reassmebling, some like to spray remaining tb cleaner/carb cleaner into the plenum to clean it up. This is usually a waste of time since oil coming from the PCV will quickly muck it up again but pooled cleaner may help clean downstream intake when you start it back up. not enough to make a bg difference but hey. If you do this, dont be alarmed by the blue smoke at startup (oil and sludge being burned off). Start the car, take it for a short run to blow any remaining cleaner out and you are done.
#9
Well 2da mizzax u've out done urself once again, im going to copy paste this and save it for later reference when i get the gaskets and get this baby all cleaned up. Thank u.
so would u suggest NOT adjusting my idle at the moment and clean the TB and IACV first ?
so would u suggest NOT adjusting my idle at the moment and clean the TB and IACV first ?
#11
I used CRC brand TB & Air Intake Cleaner on the TB and the IACV and CRC brand MAF cleaner on the MAF. I forgot to mention I cleaned the IACV and replaced the PCV as well. I think it's a bad MAF so I am going to test it w/an MAF from my friend's 98 SE, reset the codes and see what happens.
On the transmission side, I have 192K on the original w/an oil cooler I installed when I bought the car w/54K on it. If the transmission goes, it has served me well all of these years, so all in all, I cannot complain.
I will keep you all posted and thanks for the help, I really appreciate it!
On the transmission side, I have 192K on the original w/an oil cooler I installed when I bought the car w/54K on it. If the transmission goes, it has served me well all of these years, so all in all, I cannot complain.
I will keep you all posted and thanks for the help, I really appreciate it!
#12
2da mizzax I wish I did live in the NYC area. I've seen so many Maxima owners swindled and spending thousands. I can't wait to clean up my throttle body and IAC. I've got a rough idle on my 2000 Maxima -- dies when I turn on the AC and cuts off after going down the highway and then stopping. It threw the famous 01 and 02 Ox Sensor codes but I cleared these. You have probably saved me at least $300 and kept me from possibly spending thousands on useless repairs. You're the man. I'll post back after I clean. You and DAVEB ought to be given the Maxima studs of the year award.
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