Vibration at highway speeds
#1
Vibration at highway speeds
I have a really bad vibration whenever I drive at highway speeds. Driving around town i don't feel it. It's nice and smooth. When I get at about 60 to 75 mph I get the vibes. I recently replaced the cv axles, shocks and springs. I also installed a set of G35 17's. I had the tires mounted and balanced at a Walmart. I was thinking it might not be balanced. I can literally see the steering wheel shaking. I also get it in the gas pedal, but it isn't that bad.
Anyone got any suggestions?
Anyone got any suggestions?
#3
I have the same problem. Smooth as silk around town, but as soon as I hit the highway at around 70ish steering wheel starts to vibrate quite a lot. I always assumed it was because the struts/suspension are stock and could stand to be replaced. I don't think it has anything to do with tire balance because my suspension feels kinda hard too if im going over rail road tracks or hit a pot hole.
#4
yeah...i'm experiencing the same thing. Seems fine (although a little "loose") around town, but get some bad vibration going past 63mi/h. I though i just needed an allignment, but it turns out that my sway bar endlinks are shot, as well as the control arm bushings. SO, the guys @ my shop told me that it would just be easier to just get new control arms (they come with bushings and and ball joints) as well as new swaybar endlinks. I bought those already (about $250worth of parts) I was gona go and get those done on Satruday, but we had that ice/snow storm, so now i gotta wait another week!
SO, i'll let you guys know how that goes.
SO, i'll let you guys know how that goes.
#5
Originally Posted by mikey chalupa
Also, haven't gotten an alignment yet and the vibration seems to be coming from the passenger side.
#11
i used to have this puzzling problem until i figured it out by accident.
When winter came around i rotated my tires and the ones i put on the back were the bad ones, the vibration became a lot less (about 2/3 of what it used to be). my two tires that were on the front were not perfectly round and that caused the vibration
here is how u can test your tires: lift the car will all 4 wheels in the air, go to each wheel and spin it, if u see the wheel wobbling (like an egg thats spun) then u have crappy tires that are not perfectly round, look at the tire from the side and from the front/rear of the vehicle, you should not see any deviation while the wheel is spinning.
Do this to each wheel to determine which one is causing it. my mechanic said the cause COULD BE (not 100%) is that someone may have had an emergency situation at high speed and locked the breaks thus causing the tire rubber to get "eaten" on one spot causing the tire to become unballanced. this doesnt make sense for my car because i have ABS and the tires still spin while breaking tho.
but there is no harm in trying. (PS dont forget to wait a few minuted before u spin each tire because once u take the load of the tires by lifting the car the tire needs some time to recover from the pressure)
When winter came around i rotated my tires and the ones i put on the back were the bad ones, the vibration became a lot less (about 2/3 of what it used to be). my two tires that were on the front were not perfectly round and that caused the vibration
here is how u can test your tires: lift the car will all 4 wheels in the air, go to each wheel and spin it, if u see the wheel wobbling (like an egg thats spun) then u have crappy tires that are not perfectly round, look at the tire from the side and from the front/rear of the vehicle, you should not see any deviation while the wheel is spinning.
Do this to each wheel to determine which one is causing it. my mechanic said the cause COULD BE (not 100%) is that someone may have had an emergency situation at high speed and locked the breaks thus causing the tire rubber to get "eaten" on one spot causing the tire to become unballanced. this doesnt make sense for my car because i have ABS and the tires still spin while breaking tho.
but there is no harm in trying. (PS dont forget to wait a few minuted before u spin each tire because once u take the load of the tires by lifting the car the tire needs some time to recover from the pressure)
#13
it's not a tire balance issue or a tire quality/roundness issue. I have this problem too and I know for a fact my tires are in perfect condition and the balance is correct. Also, since many other ppl seem to have the same problem, it's more likely this is a more complex issue than everyone's tires being unbalanced and ovular tire shape. I'm sure that's the issue for some people but there is some other facter at hand here like suspension or something.
#17
Originally Posted by mikey chalupa
I know my tires aren't eaten on one side. They are brand new. My wheels are brand new also. I'm going int today to see if one's not balanced.
Wheels are not hard to bend, and tires can be bad when brand new. Don't be silly and assume they are good.
Dave
#19
That's fine - then I would take it all back to the shop that just mounted/balanced and have them re-check the balance. It's entirely possible that a balancing weight fell off, for example.
Also, there is absolutely such a thing as a bad tire - it's important to at least make a visual inspection for delamination or bulging.
And finally, the wheel could have been bent either during installation or on the road. The shop checking balance should have no problem mounting a dial indicator and checking the rim runout.
Dave
Also, there is absolutely such a thing as a bad tire - it's important to at least make a visual inspection for delamination or bulging.
And finally, the wheel could have been bent either during installation or on the road. The shop checking balance should have no problem mounting a dial indicator and checking the rim runout.
Dave
#20
I got the same problem. It's got some vibrations around 70, and it'd be gone when I hit 75 and above. More serverely when I make a slight turn.
Took it to a garage today. They said I need to do some balance. Well $20 not too bad. Now it's smooth when above 70 even up to 85.
BUT....... It's killing me when driving around town. Between 20-30, feels like front tires got something on them, (probably passenger side), NO vibration but I do feel a lot of almost like a pull-back or like the tire is not perfectly round. A periodically noise feeling from the wheel, WTF?!
Took it to a garage today. They said I need to do some balance. Well $20 not too bad. Now it's smooth when above 70 even up to 85.
BUT....... It's killing me when driving around town. Between 20-30, feels like front tires got something on them, (probably passenger side), NO vibration but I do feel a lot of almost like a pull-back or like the tire is not perfectly round. A periodically noise feeling from the wheel, WTF?!
#21
Took the car to a shop with a road force balancer. They said they use a scale to determine if a tire is balanced. They said that it has to be 26 and under. Apparently, my front tires were at a 35 and 40. I had them balanced to a 14 and 19. It cost me 13.00 for the balance.
I drove tha car afterwards and it was a hell of a lot better. I haven't gotten it up to 70 yet. I'll do it in the mornign on the way to work. I did however get a small vibration but it's nothing like it was before. I only got the front tires balanced andI plan on doing the rear this weekend. Also, I don't have an alignment so that is probably why I have a slight vibration now.
I drove tha car afterwards and it was a hell of a lot better. I haven't gotten it up to 70 yet. I'll do it in the mornign on the way to work. I did however get a small vibration but it's nothing like it was before. I only got the front tires balanced andI plan on doing the rear this weekend. Also, I don't have an alignment so that is probably why I have a slight vibration now.
#23
Originally Posted by heynow
I finally went in to replace my LCAs, bushings/balljoints, sway bar endlinks and bushings. WOW car feels so tight and responsive (dare i say: "Like new")
Now i need an allignment.
Now i need an allignment.
#24
wel, let's seeeeee. The LCAs i got from ebay for $160 (ball joints & bushings included) the're the "good ones" not the ones that some people on this board bought a while back. It was like another $30 for the TRW swaybar endlinks, and $15 for the energy suspension swaybar bushings.
As for the labor, i think i got a pretty good deal @ $250 (I also had the thermostat changed)
I also got new Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS Pole Position tires (those cost more than labor for the suspesion work ) But talk about handling/cornering! I can't wait to have my baby alligned and hit the highway!
linkage:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...9130851&rd=1,1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...0963276&rd=1,1
OR get the full package (minus the swaybar bushings)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ball-...5250QQtcZphoto
As for the labor, i think i got a pretty good deal @ $250 (I also had the thermostat changed)
I also got new Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS Pole Position tires (those cost more than labor for the suspesion work ) But talk about handling/cornering! I can't wait to have my baby alligned and hit the highway!
linkage:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...9130851&rd=1,1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...0963276&rd=1,1
OR get the full package (minus the swaybar bushings)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ball-...5250QQtcZphoto
#25
I had some vibration at the same speeds, turns out I just need new tires since when I put my stock full size spare after it went flat, there was no more viebration. Some rims require hub centric rings, the g35 rims probably don't but you never know.
#28
Originally Posted by jltibbs
mike, come see me if you decide to get those parts. also i found some energy suspension bushings that could help as well.
#29
It depends.....I had my LCAs changed because there are 3 different bushings on 'em, and one of those is a ***** to replace, so might as well get new LCA (which is what a good majority of orgers seem to end up doing).
I'm REALLY enjoying the newfound stability. I used to have terrible "wheel hop" . Now, it's almost non existant (unless you totally floor it!)
I'm REALLY enjoying the newfound stability. I used to have terrible "wheel hop" . Now, it's almost non existant (unless you totally floor it!)
#30
Originally Posted by heynow
wel, let's seeeeee. The LCAs i got from ebay for $160 (ball joints & bushings included) the're the "good ones" not the ones that some people on this board bought a while back. It was like another $30 for the TRW swaybar endlinks, and $15 for the energy suspension swaybar bushings.
As for the labor, i think i got a pretty good deal @ $250 (I also had the thermostat changed)
I also got new Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS Pole Position tires (those cost more than labor for the suspesion work ) But talk about handling/cornering! I can't wait to have my baby alligned and hit the highway!
linkage:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...9130851&rd=1,1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...0963276&rd=1,1
OR get the full package (minus the swaybar bushings)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ball-...5250QQtcZphoto
As for the labor, i think i got a pretty good deal @ $250 (I also had the thermostat changed)
I also got new Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS Pole Position tires (those cost more than labor for the suspesion work ) But talk about handling/cornering! I can't wait to have my baby alligned and hit the highway!
linkage:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...9130851&rd=1,1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...0963276&rd=1,1
OR get the full package (minus the swaybar bushings)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ball-...5250QQtcZphoto
What do people think about the quality of these parts? That package seems like a good deal, but too good to be true?
#32
yea i got the same problem
the car starts vibrating at speeds above 65 and the steering wheel starts to shake
i showed it to a family friend who is also a mechanic
he told me that I should get the control arms checked and if necessary, replaced. I will have it checked and then see what happens.
the car starts vibrating at speeds above 65 and the steering wheel starts to shake
i showed it to a family friend who is also a mechanic
he told me that I should get the control arms checked and if necessary, replaced. I will have it checked and then see what happens.
#33
I have this problem as well. I temporarily live in Europe and regularly drive on the German Autobahns where there is no speed limit and this annoys me beyond belief. I have had my tires changed twice, Michelin and Continental, the two top European brands, the car has been aligned, I have had the alloys replaced for 'perfect' ones and still at speeds between 60 and 85 miles the steering wheel vibrates. I have pushed on beyond that and then it steadily reduces, but never goes away. It gets worse in slight bends in the highway where you do not necessarily reduce speed. The best solution I have found is having the tires balanced on the car, with High Speed balancing.
I must say that I am reluctant to spend more money on new control arms and sway-bar end links, but given the money and effort I have spent so far, maybe I should. I would however like to ask if anyone has found a different solution or other cause?
I must say that I am reluctant to spend more money on new control arms and sway-bar end links, but given the money and effort I have spent so far, maybe I should. I would however like to ask if anyone has found a different solution or other cause?
#35
You won't regret it Mikey, it's worth it. I love my max too. Which is why i don't reget spending money to make sure it's perfect. I'm getting an allignment done today.we'll see if there are any further inprovements
#40
I got vibration when I hit 70. The shop did a balance and rotate for me, and the vibration is gone when I hit above 70, even up to 95. But when driving 25-30, I got another problem. I oculd hear this periodical "hum" noise and vibration on the front tires through the body and steering wheel.
I went back to the tire shop and told them the problem they didn't know about after they balanced and rotated my tires.
The passenger side, originally on the left-rear, has so-called "cuppy", uneven wear on the edge of the tire. According to them, that's what causes it. It wasn't so easy to notice since that was on the rear. It's been 700 miles, and nothing got better. Maybe it'd take me a bit longer.
I went back to the tire shop and told them the problem they didn't know about after they balanced and rotated my tires.
The passenger side, originally on the left-rear, has so-called "cuppy", uneven wear on the edge of the tire. According to them, that's what causes it. It wasn't so easy to notice since that was on the rear. It's been 700 miles, and nothing got better. Maybe it'd take me a bit longer.