MadMaxSE-L

iTrader: (4)

Got to poking around under my Max today, basically seeing where the rattling noise is comming from(found it to be the y-pipe flew coupler ends rusted loose), and I noticed my rear valve cover is POURING oil. It is running all the way down the back side of my engine, and onto the exhaust manifold. I can't believe that I have not smelled oil buring or saw smoke from under the hood.

Anyway, how hoar is this to do in the car. I'm not asking for a write up or anything thing like that I'm perfectly capable of doing it, I just wonder who has done it and if there are any little tricks(such as with changing the knock sensor).

thanks in advance
-Matt

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

the main task will be getting the plenum off, once thats off, you're home free.
I havent done it before (atleast not while it was in the car), but patients and working methodically will make it a smoother job.

label vac lines,
and keep track of your nuts and bolts.

matty

iTrader: (54)

Pretty straight forward. Intake manifold needs to be pulled off, then remove the rear valve cover. Order all the 10 grommets for hte bolts, the main valve cover gasket, and the 3 spark plug tube seals.

Make sure the bolts for the valve cover are trqd to In-Lb's and NOT Ft.lbs.

-matt

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

he nailed it. I didnt know we were supposed to replace the bolts, but i definently torqued mine in FOOT POUNDS and broke the head off the bolt...that kinda thing can turn a straight forward job into a frusterating job.

trialt

was pretty straight forward for me. did it in about 1 1/2 hrs. just take your time and remember where everything goes

MadMaxSE-L

iTrader: (4)

ok, that's all I needed to know guys. I figured the manifold had to come off, maybe I'll just wait until I put my clutch in. I have the whole 5th gen setup ready to go, just waiting on the g/f to get her own car so she is done frying mine...

Would taking the tranny out help anything, such as not having to remove the plenum?

-Matt

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

Lol I don't think so...that's like 2 completely different areas.

MadMaxSE-L

iTrader: (4)

^^^ Yeah, I know this but I didn't knnow if there was enough room to take the bolts out of the VC and lift it up a little and bring it out toward the drivers side of the car...

-Matt

matty

iTrader: (54)

Nah..the manifold has to come off

-matt

MadMaxSE-L

iTrader: (4)

10-4

-Matt

speed racer

iTrader: (10)

I don't think replacing all 10 grommets is necessary. I did both front and rear valve covers by just replacing the valve cover gasket. This was done 15k miles ago and no leaks at all.

MadMaxSE-L

iTrader: (4)

do the gaskets come as a set, or each cover sold individually?

-Matt

matty

iTrader: (54)

Depends. If you get it from an auto parts store, its a kit, but if you buy from Nissan its all seperate parts. Do the grommets and the spark plug tube seals. From nissan those grommets are $3 a peice but well worth it.

-matt

MadMaxSE-L

iTrader: (4)

Ok, cool. Yeah, I know what you meen. I would not want to do ther whole VC and then have one of the little grommets or whatever leak. Might as well buy from Nissan since we get 30% off .

-Matt

frumundacheese

It looks a little harder than it sounds in the Haynes Manual. Can a rookie do it?

kaneda_77

iTrader: (5)

so is this all the bolts that hold the Intake Manifold in place? (besides the peripherals, brackets etc) I was playing around on a junkyard car to see what it takes to get them off and it was a pita. I am planning on replacing the back gasket at some point. Am I missing any?

NISSANMAXIMA91

iTrader: (1)

i dont know about others' luck with this, but when i did mine, after i got it all back together, mine was leaking much worse than before. ive read other forums and heard from other mechanics that you have to put RTV at the corners, especially on the timing chain side. Hated to do the job twiced, but the RTV fixed it. Hoping to save everyone from a headache.

FishyMan

I used RTV sealant all around, but if you've noticed, at high temps it just starts to melt away. So far no problems to me. I got the kit and changed the grommets. You might as well.

Fr33way™

iTrader: (23)

It was more than likely the bolt tightening sequence you used.

As far as people asking how easy/hard it is, how comfortable are you taking the intake manifold off? Chances are if you haven't done it at least once you should allow a few hours. Once that comes off the RVC is a breeze, just don't rush it. You want it done right so you don't have to pop the manifold off again. The 1st time I took the manifold off I kept a notebook nearby and labeled/counted the hoses I removed. The electrical connectors can't really be mixed up.

Fr33way™

iTrader: (23)

There are two bolts on the back of the manifold that hold it to a bracket. There are indentations on the manifold that you can slide your finger down to find them. You want to do these first (specifically the drivers side). The rest are cake.

ROCKART

iTrader: (23)

ok the cabin side of my rear gasket is leaking. by leaking i mean seaping, but im still gonna do it, cuz its dripping onto my LCA bushings and getting all kinds of crap stuck in there.


so items needed are



1) front valve cover gasket
2) rear valve cover gasket
3) spark plug seals (do i really need these? 6 of them or just 3 [only the rear])
4) spark plug grommets? what do these do?
5) tube of RTV silicone sealent


anything else?

what about replacing the EGR gasket or IACV gasket? any other gaskets i should do while there?

Fr33way™

iTrader: (23)

I would check the spark plug tubes for oil before swapping the seals personally. Is your front valve cover leaking? You really only need to do the gaskets on the IACV and TB if you crack them but they are good insurance/piece of mind.

kaneda_77

iTrader: (5)

Thanks dude, that's what I was looking to hear.

NISSANMAXIMA91

iTrader: (1)

i went by the pattern in the FSM. starting on middle left bottom and so on on the front set. torqed in in. lbs. dunno man. fixed now tho.

mactaite

does anyone know an estimate of how much it cost to just let the shop do it?

pahaf

iTrader: (4)

they will say its like a 2 hour job so im guessing they will charge you around $120-$150

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Front VC gasket shows .7 hours, rear 3...which are you going to get done?

Both shows 3.3 hours, so just call up the shop you're looking at and see what their hourly rate is. Honestly it's an extremely easy job to do yourself, I wouldn't pay a shop to do it.

RJS09

I too need to replace valve cover gaskets on my 1995 maxima with 171k mls.
I cant afford a new car or the $100.00 per hr theive rates they get here in upstate NY.

I am wondering if this is something I can successfully do myself.?
My experience fixing this maxima has been:

- 2 break jobs. pads and rotors.
- Fuel filter
- Plugs
- Ign coil
- 2 front Injectors

To you guys that have replaced rear valve cover gasket, is this a job I would be able to realistically do myself ( in your own opinion knowing my repair exp history).?

As for tools i have

- Complete set of metric\std 6 and 12 point deep and normal sockets

- No torque wrench
- No taps

Please, i really cannot afford the $100@hr labor rates here and ANY

1 - Opinions on above exp vs this undertaking.
2 - Step-by-step instructions to remove\replace.
3 - Additional tools, emergency tools needed.

Thank you so very much.!

FallenOne

iTrader: (17)

You need to Search; there is an entire thread on replacing valve cover gaskets.

x X CLoud X x

iTrader: (2)

Curious how do u get 30% off ?

Winbob

Normally I would not reply to a Post this old, but I'd like to add up to date info. I just got an estimate on this job for my '97 Max with 130k on it. My rear VC gasket leaks just enough to create a smell as it drips on hot exhaust parts. (Good news is no spots reach the ground) The front bank seeps a little...but nothing to speak of. The issue is that if the fresh air cabin intake is open you smell the burnt oil when the car is not moving. Plus when you park and get out it stinks.

My total oil loss has only been .5 qt in 5000 miles. But it stinks.

Anyway, I got an oil change today at "Driver's Edge". They have a mechanic there that seems in the know...I quizzed the crap out of him. They quoted me 4 hours labor for front/back, and $85 for parts. More than just the VC gaskets is involved since the Plenum is being removed. If you gamble and reuse all but the VC gaskets you save a few bucks...but it is not worth it in my opinion. With a "price break" they quoted me $396. I'll look for other quotes, AND for one of their Coupon Flyers that usually give 20% off on 'major' repairs.

It looks like a doable job, but my back would never forgive me for trying it! Some things in life are worth paying to have done. Also, as was mentioned above...if you screw up you may wind up doing it twice! This way it is THEIR problem.

Winbob

bullet187

Will a leaky gasket that barely seaps oil cause the engine to be hotter or cause any other problems?

bullet187

I replaced my front valve cover yesterday. Was a pain to get the spark plug gaskets off, but got it done. How much would it cost to get the rear valve covers done? It looks like a lot of work.