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this is why I'm on this board, my starting problem. I'll explain EXCACTLY what are my steps before this and what I've done to repair it.
Things I do before the problem(all in one shoot);
1. Removing my 5 speed tranny, I dont touch anything but the screws on the tranny And the tranny support. I also unplug 3 sensors + Clutch hose.
- I put the rebuilt tranny in the same way (by the way, it was repainted)
2. Removing Y-Pipe. I only put a stain less steal Budget one.
3. The cat is empty now
4. Replace my clutch without removing the flywheel. Only change the pressure plate and the clutch. (I did not ajust anything, just place to place)
5. Unmount my stater and regrease it everywhere.
Thing Ive done to remedy
1. I put about 25 feets of 8 gauge wiring on the tranny and the engine. (both screw of the starter, big screw near the crankshaf position sensor, couple of small screws under the tranny)
2. Try a new cranck shaft position sensor
3. Spark plugs
4. Ground on the MAF
5. Cleaning the throttle body
6. Gas treatement + injectors cleaner
So possibly causes
1. No cat
2. I turn the flywheel with my hands during the tranny remouval
3. The new clutch replacement
4. Vaccum hose broken/blocked?
5. The starter rebuilt?
6. EGR blocked by carbon
7. I miss one screw on the pressure plate
What the engine does
))) When the engine is turn off for a while, put the key on start. First, the starter TURN WELL and the engine seems to start, NO I heard like a big chunck's blocking the starter, after this sound the strater still running, second atemp teh engine seems starting NO the bucking again, the starter still runnig, and the engine finnaly start with over gas and BIG black smoke. On the first second, when the engine finnaly started, its sound like a old mustang. (like this vid http://youtube.com/watch?v=OIpAaHfsuxU)
if you turned your flywheer to the right when working on the car, that can cause some timing issues because that turns the crank counter clockwise. if you had a bad cps that is y it didnt start. if grounds were bad that is why it didnt start. shoulda fixed one at a time to see what it was
Hmmm... Maybe try going with one grounding location instead of 4. Put 2 wires together on one connector and run it from the starter directly to the negitive terminal.
Hmmm... Maybe try going with one grounding location instead of 4. Put 2 wires together on one connector and run it from the starter directly to the negitive terminal.
I have already a ground (2X8 awg) from both screw of the starter Directly connected to the negative terminal.
The thing is, when I grounded the tranny, my starting was better. But since the fall its wrost, I mean around 10 degres celcius (50F). This mornig the temperature was around 17 celcuis (63F) and the engine stats great!
My guess is I have 2 problem in the same time, kind of grounding problem, timming and temperature. BUT HOW this is possible only by a tranny removal?
Check fuse for starter signal and Fuel Pump as well..
does the car have a better chance of starting when pumping the gas?
Black smoke = burning rich( unless Im wrong)?
No, no needs to press the pedal while starting. If I pumping the gas, its worst, so I have already to much fuel, yes its running rich, but I still do my 500km on a tank.
Like I asked you on npclub before the down, where is that starter signal? I never heard about this before. And how comes you change your fuel pump fuse change something?
I'll try to grab a pic for your this weekend on the location of the starter signal fuse.. if you pop off your fuse panel lid, ( under steering wheel), the starter signal fuse should be the first or 2nd one on the middle row..
as for the fuel pump fuse... boh, I guess the previous owner put in a different amperage fuse...
if you don't need to press on the gas and if you are burning rich, check if you have a leaky injector or faulty spark plug..
Other then that, the only thing I can think of is a faulty ECTS ( Engine Coolant Temperatur Sensor)...
I'll try to grab a pic for your this weekend on the location of the starter signal fuse.. if you pop off your fuse panel lid, ( under steering wheel), the starter signal fuse should be the first or 2nd one on the middle row..
as for the fuel pump fuse... boh, I guess the previous owner put in a different amperage fuse...
if you don't need to press on the gas and if you are burning rich, check if you have a leaky injector or faulty spark plug..
Other then that, the only thing I can think of is a faulty ECTS ( Engine Coolant Temperatur Sensor)...
KL
But is it write on the panel "Starter signal". Because I look and there's nothing like this. Maybe on the 1997 and later..? What do you have? I got a 96.
This morning, -10 celcius, the car takes a good 1 minute to start. But when the engine's hot, it start normally. So I guess is a temp sensor or something like that.
What it could be??
)) One more thing checked : I make a ground on the MAF. No changes...
Your starter sounds fine to me..
It's cranking normal( althought I would ask for another opinion to be sure)
It simply sounds as if there isn't enough fuel build up for the "spark"...
next time, put the key in ignition, but only turn it until the dash lights come on ( don't crank)...
wait for a good minute or 2 before starting.. also, while waiting, pay attention how much the gas needle actually goes up..
does the car start if you give it some gas?
ok i had the same problem with my old car... i did the same exact thing... go and check out ur fuel pressure regulator... that was teh problem with mine and i took it in to get it checked out and the morons couldnt even figure it out... check the fpr.... good luck...
ok i had the same problem with my old car... i did the same exact thing... go and check out ur fuel pressure regulator... that was teh problem with mine and i took it in to get it checked out and the morons couldnt even figure it out... check the fpr.... good luck...
Ill check it soon! Thanks
But I think thats maybe a miss fire on a cylinder. Runs Rich and hard to start...but when the engines running its fine. Could be my bocsh platinum4+ sparkplugs???
I think he has already done some of that. Maybe the wire isn't thick enough. A ton of electricity gets pumped into the starter and if it has nowhere to go it will cause problems. Notice how your lights dim when the pause happens.
I would also replace the coolant sensor as well, it's easy enough and cheap.
I think he has already done some of that. Maybe the wire isn't thick enough. A ton of electricity gets pumped into the starter and if it has nowhere to go it will cause problems. Notice how your lights dim when the pause happens.
I would also replace the coolant sensor as well, it's easy enough and cheap.
Nah, i do a real ground, with tressed wire 8 awg, for amplifiers. The connections are gold placked and weld like a pro.
This weekend, im planning to try a new starter and new sparkplugs, ill try coolant sensor too, thanks!
Mine does the EXACT same thing as well. One other problem though, it just started this one today, when it finally catches, if I don't keep it revved up, it dies. Only when it's cold too.
Mine does the EXACT same thing as well. One other problem though, it just started this one today, when it finally catches, if I don't keep it revved up, it dies. Only when it's cold too.
I dont need to get the rev up, but its hard to start.
Your problem seems bad, reving the engine while its cold...
You should try to get rid of it fast... If not use syntech oil.
And other problem. I decided to change my spark plugs, remove BOSCh for NGK. My bosch was ok, great color, seems to have a good combustion. Then, a put my OEM NGK for a week, and decided to make a checkup, conclusion : BAD
Carbon deposit. What Hayness says : Symtoms : Dry sooty deposits indicate a rich mixture or weak ignition. Causes misfiring, hard starting and hesitation.
Exactly my problem.
But, I had the same starting problem with my bosch and they are ok
Now im running on NGK iridium. For, now my starting seems almost normal(still have hesitation), but its 10 celcuis (50F) outside, for a 18 of december should be more like a -20 celcius(-4).
Wow, -8 celcius today, still running on my NGK Iridium, no changes. Takes time to start AND SOMETHING NEW!. When engine finaly start, the rpm drop and engine stall!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
AHHHHHHHHH I'm starting to hate this car, having to much troubles. But I dont give up, I'm pretty sure thats a stupid thing.
I dont need to get the rev up, but its hard to start.
Your problem seems bad, reving the engine while its cold...
You should try to get rid of it fast... If not use syntech oil.
I do use Mobil 1 Synthetic oil..
When I said revved up, I just meant hold it just a little over 1k. That problem is gone now.
I only have the hard start sometimes. It does the exact same thing as in the 'UPDATE' video. Anyone figure anything else out about this? I am thinking about changing my starter and fuel pump.
The starter needs to be changed anyway, but I am kind-of thinking the fuel pump may help the starting. I also have a small hesitation after shifting gears sometimes.
1. I done my own complete starter rebuilt. (changing brushes, cleaning everything with toothbrush and wd40, remake the internal wires). Now it turns very FASTER! But that wasnt perfect...
2. Changing my gas filter for a 300zxtt one. ( the previous one probably got 120 000 miles on it....)
1. I done my own complete starter rebuilt. (changing brushes, cleaning everything with toothbrush and wd40, remake the internal wires). Now it turns very FASTER! But that wasnt perfect...
2. Changing my gas filter for a 300zxtt one. ( the previous one probably got 120 000 miles on it....)
Now start perfectly! even - 20 degrees celcius!
Thanks for everyones help!
I did that too.. That's actually the first thing I did to try to fix it (rebuild the starter) but I figured someone had tried it to no avail.. Which is what took me so long to do it.
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