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Finally fixed stalling issue by grounding MAF sensor
What a relief, after weeks of dealing with stalling max, she purrs like a kitten again. The fix took 10 min, by simply running extra grounding wire from MAF to the chassis.
All stalling when coming to stop , shaking at idle, stalling in reverse and running rich is now gone !!!
If you experience stalling issues (with no CEL) and have tried all the basic troubleshooting like: clean TB, IACV, ECTS, plugs, fliters, coils etc and nothing seemed to help, you need to check your MAF sensor ground.
Simply back probe the black wire on MAF connector with positive lead of the voltmeter and negative lead pressed to one of the ground connections on the engine block.
The voltage at idle should be less than 9mv (0.009v), if it is above the value the sensor should be regrounded.
once the sensor is regrounded , the voltage should drop significantly.
Mine was around 0.277 at idle and 0.187 with ignition on ( engine not running)
after the fix the vlotage dropped to 0.005 at idle and 0.002 with ignition ON.
I'm glad that i was able to fix without having to take the car the mechanic/dealer.
I would still like to know what has caused my MAF sensor ground go out of specs, The sensor itself has passed the output voltage test listed in Haynes manual.
Also the manual says that the MAF can develop voltage signal problems that can't be seen on the voltmeter, the PCM can see such signal faults and driveability problems will result.
in cliff notes, if you Max stalls when comig to stop, check the ground to MAF it should be less than 0.009mv
BTW.. I saw something similar in the Haynes manual. How do you "back-probe" a connector? In this case, do you strip the insulation on the MAF ground wire, or what?
I have a multimeter and am wondering based on your instructions what the positive probe should be contacting.
to backprobe the connector you simply push the needle end of your positive lead through the weatherpack (jelly like substance inside the connector)
and wiggle the needle probe until you make contact with pin inside the connector.
there is no need to cut, expose or strip insulation in order to obtain readings for given circuit.
caution - repe***ive backprobing could damage the weahterpack and allow moisture to enter the connector, so be gentle with it.
the negative lead should be touching good engine ground ( there are two 10 mm screws in front of the engine, next to wire harness and front injectors)
or just use battery neg terminal
I need more info on this. Sorry about this, but i'm french, so I dont understand all of yours explanations.
To be sure: you have a connector on the MAF, the plug with 3 wires? So to ground this you have to split your balck wire and connect one on the car or the negative terminal?
yes, just strip some plastic insulation from the BLACK wire on the MAF sensor connector, than solder new wire to it and attach it to any chassis ground
I've used the 10mm bolt that secures drop resistor to the shock tower
or just attach it to neg battery terminal
make sure to wrap your connections with electrical tape
Im gona try this tonight , but my car doesnt idle funny like yours, it just starts and then shuts off , i cant even save it if i give it full throttle or anything
I guess its worth a try ause it wont cost me anything....
-94 toyota pickup 4cyl 4x4 daily work truck
-97 camaro z28 [ sold]
-06 -g35 sedan 6MT [sold]
-02 merlot red 6mt full bolt ons [sold]
-97 - maxima 5MT [ hit bambi at 75mph]
For those with stalling issues even if you give it gas, I just had an issue where my car would start but immediately die. Finally I was able to get it into gear and begin driving and it would stay running but idle very rough around 400 rpm. Turns out the IACV was bad and now the car runs much better.
Linear Mode
