Finally fixed stalling issue by grounding MAF sensor
11-29-2006, 06:39 PM
#1
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Finally fixed stalling issue by grounding MAF sensor
What a relief, after weeks of dealing with stalling max, she purrs like a kitten again. The fix took 10 min, by simply running extra grounding wire from MAF to the chassis.
All stalling when coming to stop , shaking at idle, stalling in reverse and running rich is now gone !!!
If you experience stalling issues (with no CEL) and have tried all the basic troubleshooting like: clean TB, IACV, ECTS, plugs, fliters, coils etc and nothing seemed to help, you need to check your MAF sensor ground.
Simply back probe the black wire on MAF connector with positive lead of the voltmeter and negative lead pressed to one of the ground connections on the engine block.
The voltage at idle should be less than 9mv (0.009v), if it is above the value the sensor should be regrounded.
once the sensor is regrounded , the voltage should drop significantly.
Mine was around 0.277 at idle and 0.187 with ignition on ( engine not running)
after the fix the vlotage dropped to 0.005 at idle and 0.002 with ignition ON.
I'm glad that i was able to fix without having to take the car the mechanic/dealer.
I would still like to know what has caused my MAF sensor ground go out of specs, The sensor itself has passed the output voltage test listed in Haynes manual.
Also the manual says that the MAF can develop voltage signal problems that can't be seen on the voltmeter, the PCM can see such signal faults and driveability problems will result.
in cliff notes, if you Max stalls when comig to stop, check the ground to MAF it should be less than 0.009mv
Nick.
All stalling when coming to stop , shaking at idle, stalling in reverse and running rich is now gone !!!
If you experience stalling issues (with no CEL) and have tried all the basic troubleshooting like: clean TB, IACV, ECTS, plugs, fliters, coils etc and nothing seemed to help, you need to check your MAF sensor ground.
Simply back probe the black wire on MAF connector with positive lead of the voltmeter and negative lead pressed to one of the ground connections on the engine block.
The voltage at idle should be less than 9mv (0.009v), if it is above the value the sensor should be regrounded.
once the sensor is regrounded , the voltage should drop significantly.
Mine was around 0.277 at idle and 0.187 with ignition on ( engine not running)
after the fix the vlotage dropped to 0.005 at idle and 0.002 with ignition ON.
I'm glad that i was able to fix without having to take the car the mechanic/dealer.
I would still like to know what has caused my MAF sensor ground go out of specs, The sensor itself has passed the output voltage test listed in Haynes manual.
Also the manual says that the MAF can develop voltage signal problems that can't be seen on the voltmeter, the PCM can see such signal faults and driveability problems will result.
in cliff notes, if you Max stalls when comig to stop, check the ground to MAF it should be less than 0.009mv
Nick.
11-29-2006, 08:59 PM
#3
BTW.. I saw something similar in the Haynes manual. How do you "back-probe" a connector? In this case, do you strip the insulation on the MAF ground wire, or what?
I have a multimeter and am wondering based on your instructions what the positive probe should be contacting.
I have a multimeter and am wondering based on your instructions what the positive probe should be contacting.
11-29-2006, 11:28 PM
#4
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to backprobe the connector you simply push the needle end of your positive lead through the weatherpack (jelly like substance inside the connector)
and wiggle the needle probe until you make contact with pin inside the connector.
there is no need to cut, expose or strip insulation in order to obtain readings for given circuit.
caution - repe***ive backprobing could damage the weahterpack and allow moisture to enter the connector, so be gentle with it.
the negative lead should be touching good engine ground ( there are two 10 mm screws in front of the engine, next to wire harness and front injectors)
or just use battery neg terminal
and wiggle the needle probe until you make contact with pin inside the connector.
there is no need to cut, expose or strip insulation in order to obtain readings for given circuit.
caution - repe***ive backprobing could damage the weahterpack and allow moisture to enter the connector, so be gentle with it.
the negative lead should be touching good engine ground ( there are two 10 mm screws in front of the engine, next to wire harness and front injectors)
or just use battery neg terminal
11-30-2006, 11:27 AM
#5
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Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 222
Hi,
I need more info on this. Sorry about this, but i'm french, so I dont understand all of yours explanations.
To be sure: you have a connector on the MAF, the plug with 3 wires? So to ground this you have to split your balck wire and connect one on the car or the negative terminal?
Thanks
I need more info on this. Sorry about this, but i'm french, so I dont understand all of yours explanations.
To be sure: you have a connector on the MAF, the plug with 3 wires? So to ground this you have to split your balck wire and connect one on the car or the negative terminal?
Thanks
11-30-2006, 12:42 PM
#6
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yes, just strip some plastic insulation from the BLACK wire on the MAF sensor connector, than solder new wire to it and attach it to any chassis ground
I've used the 10mm bolt that secures drop resistor to the shock tower
or just attach it to neg battery terminal
make sure to wrap your connections with electrical tape
I've used the 10mm bolt that secures drop resistor to the shock tower
or just attach it to neg battery terminal
make sure to wrap your connections with electrical tape
12-27-2006, 03:34 AM
#7
Im gona try this tonight , but my car doesnt idle funny like yours, it just starts and then shuts off , i cant even save it if i give it full throttle or anything 
I guess its worth a try ause it wont cost me anything....
I guess its worth a try ause it wont cost me anything....
12-05-2008, 12:22 PM
#14
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 452
For those with stalling issues even if you give it gas, I just had an issue where my car would start but immediately die. Finally I was able to get it into gear and begin driving and it would stay running but idle very rough around 400 rpm. Turns out the IACV was bad and now the car runs much better.
03-16-2011, 07:35 PM
#15
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 5
I've had the same problem with my mother's Maxima. It randomly stalls, and I've done everything I can think of. I've replaced the Ignition Coils, Fuel Pump, changed the IAC, Idle Control, cleaned the MAF Sensor with MAF Sensor Cleaner which cost nearly $25 for the spray can from SuperCheap, in AUS. Air Filters are all clean, and beginning to think it is a computer problem.
It should have started this morning when I unplugged the MAF Sensor, so there has to be a root cause. A mechanic charged my mother around $1,000 for new ignition coils which when I checked, noticed not all were replaced so I replaced them all.
I did notice something, I checked the voltage of the Ignition Coils while the Maxima was running, and the MAF was disconnected, and the meter read about 13+volts consistently. However, when I reconnected the MAF Sensor, and ran the car, the voltage of the Ignition Coils would keep randomly jumping to a low voltage and back up to 13+volts. Sometimes the meter would read less than 1volt, and jump back up, and then randomly to 4v, then sometimes 7v etc etc.
I even resoldered the MAF Sensor pins since they seems shonky. Though that didn't seem to help. I tried driving with the MAF Sensor disconnected and the car will run, though not drive and stall a lot more. With the MAF connected since yesterday, engine wouldn't start again this morning, so I unplugged the MAF Sensor, and tried starting and it still wouldn't start... just smelled like gas. Have to wait a little, then try and start and rev it quite a bit when starting and then it eventually goes. Chugs sometimes while driving, though usually stalls at red traffic lights, or a stop sign. The stalling issue seems to be a common problem though with different causes. It is annoying because it is costing a LOT of money.
I did a voltage test on the ground cable after reading this thread, and noticed the voltage was about 0.013v which changed between 0.012v - 0.014v, though usually stuck around 0.013v consistently. Is that a sign of a bad Ground Connection to the MAF Sensor?
It should have started this morning when I unplugged the MAF Sensor, so there has to be a root cause. A mechanic charged my mother around $1,000 for new ignition coils which when I checked, noticed not all were replaced so I replaced them all.
I did notice something, I checked the voltage of the Ignition Coils while the Maxima was running, and the MAF was disconnected, and the meter read about 13+volts consistently. However, when I reconnected the MAF Sensor, and ran the car, the voltage of the Ignition Coils would keep randomly jumping to a low voltage and back up to 13+volts. Sometimes the meter would read less than 1volt, and jump back up, and then randomly to 4v, then sometimes 7v etc etc.
I even resoldered the MAF Sensor pins since they seems shonky. Though that didn't seem to help. I tried driving with the MAF Sensor disconnected and the car will run, though not drive and stall a lot more. With the MAF connected since yesterday, engine wouldn't start again this morning, so I unplugged the MAF Sensor, and tried starting and it still wouldn't start... just smelled like gas. Have to wait a little, then try and start and rev it quite a bit when starting and then it eventually goes. Chugs sometimes while driving, though usually stalls at red traffic lights, or a stop sign. The stalling issue seems to be a common problem though with different causes. It is annoying because it is costing a LOT of money.
I did a voltage test on the ground cable after reading this thread, and noticed the voltage was about 0.013v which changed between 0.012v - 0.014v, though usually stuck around 0.013v consistently. Is that a sign of a bad Ground Connection to the MAF Sensor?
03-17-2011, 12:24 AM
#16
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Try regrounding your black MAF sensor wire and see what it does, reground it and check the voltage again. My car did not stalled once since 2006.
yes, just strip some plastic insulation from the BLACK wire on the MAF sensor connector, than solder new wire to it and attach it to any chassis ground
I've used the 10mm bolt that secures drop resistor to the shock tower
or just attach it to neg battery terminal
make sure to wrap your connections with electrical tape
I've used the 10mm bolt that secures drop resistor to the shock tower
or just attach it to neg battery terminal
make sure to wrap your connections with electrical tape
Last edited by nick; 03-17-2011 at 12:27 AM.
03-18-2011, 06:39 PM
#17
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 5
I regrounded the black wire, though directly from the MAF Sensor. I took pictures to document the process. Before I did this my meter was reading the ground wire at around 13mv (0.013v). After regrounding the ground wire, the ohm/multimeter voltage reading went right down as it was supposed it, since it originally was above 9mv. After the regrounding the voltage dropped to 0.006 at idle and 0.000 with the ignition on.
However, for my case the car started to chug and stall a lot more. Recently because of the problems, I had checked inside the Sensor and found a pin had a loose connection, when I tapped the connection, the car would chug or stall, so it has to be the MAF. I resoldered the pin to correct this. The problem just stayed when the car would stall randomly. So the loose connection, may have damaged the circuit board over time. Just assuming, since this particular problem may have been there for awhile since the problem of stalling has been around for many months now.
My conclusion or thoughts are that the MAF Sensor is faulty and needs replacing. I have ordered a new one and just waiting for it arrive anytime next week hopefully.
Here is the process incase anyone else wants to try this before buying another one, it may just work for them.
Here I cut the seal, and pried the top lid off to expose the pins and circuit board. It is the pins that I am working on.
I soldered a black cable to the ground pin.
I put a Ring Terminal connector to the other end of the ground wire. Also cut a groove in the top lid edge to allow the wire to go through without pressure on the wire.
Here I connected the Ring Terminal for the ground wire to the chassis.
Completed work with the ground wire tucked around the air filter. It looks like it is going through the filter, though it isn't. Just around it.
However, for my case the car started to chug and stall a lot more. Recently because of the problems, I had checked inside the Sensor and found a pin had a loose connection, when I tapped the connection, the car would chug or stall, so it has to be the MAF. I resoldered the pin to correct this. The problem just stayed when the car would stall randomly. So the loose connection, may have damaged the circuit board over time. Just assuming, since this particular problem may have been there for awhile since the problem of stalling has been around for many months now.
My conclusion or thoughts are that the MAF Sensor is faulty and needs replacing. I have ordered a new one and just waiting for it arrive anytime next week hopefully.
Here is the process incase anyone else wants to try this before buying another one, it may just work for them.
Here I cut the seal, and pried the top lid off to expose the pins and circuit board. It is the pins that I am working on.
I soldered a black cable to the ground pin.
I put a Ring Terminal connector to the other end of the ground wire. Also cut a groove in the top lid edge to allow the wire to go through without pressure on the wire.
Here I connected the Ring Terminal for the ground wire to the chassis.
Completed work with the ground wire tucked around the air filter. It looks like it is going through the filter, though it isn't. Just around it.
Last edited by mechanicalhobby; 03-18-2011 at 06:44 PM.
03-26-2011, 06:51 PM
#18
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: West Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 26
I regrounded the black wire, though directly from the MAF Sensor. I took pictures to document the process. Before I did this my meter was reading the ground wire at around 13mv (0.013v). After regrounding the ground wire, the ohm/multimeter voltage reading went right down as it was supposed it, since it originally was above 9mv. After the regrounding the voltage dropped to 0.006 at idle and 0.000 with the ignition on.
However, for my case the car started to chug and stall a lot more. Recently because of the problems, I had checked inside the Sensor and found a pin had a loose connection, when I tapped the connection, the car would chug or stall, so it has to be the MAF. I resoldered the pin to correct this. The problem just stayed when the car would stall randomly. So the loose connection, may have damaged the circuit board over time. Just assuming, since this particular problem may have been there for awhile since the problem of stalling has been around for many months now.
My conclusion or thoughts are that the MAF Sensor is faulty and needs replacing. I have ordered a new one and just waiting for it arrive anytime next week hopefully.
Here is the process incase anyone else wants to try this before buying another one, it may just work for them.
Here I cut the seal, and pried the top lid off to expose the pins and circuit board. It is the pins that I am working on.
I soldered a black cable to the ground pin.
I put a Ring Terminal connector to the other end of the ground wire. Also cut a groove in the top lid edge to allow the wire to go through without pressure on the wire.
Here I connected the Ring Terminal for the ground wire to the chassis.
Completed work with the ground wire tucked around the air filter. It looks like it is going through the filter, though it isn't. Just around it.
However, for my case the car started to chug and stall a lot more. Recently because of the problems, I had checked inside the Sensor and found a pin had a loose connection, when I tapped the connection, the car would chug or stall, so it has to be the MAF. I resoldered the pin to correct this. The problem just stayed when the car would stall randomly. So the loose connection, may have damaged the circuit board over time. Just assuming, since this particular problem may have been there for awhile since the problem of stalling has been around for many months now.
My conclusion or thoughts are that the MAF Sensor is faulty and needs replacing. I have ordered a new one and just waiting for it arrive anytime next week hopefully.
Here is the process incase anyone else wants to try this before buying another one, it may just work for them.
Here I cut the seal, and pried the top lid off to expose the pins and circuit board. It is the pins that I am working on.
I soldered a black cable to the ground pin.
I put a Ring Terminal connector to the other end of the ground wire. Also cut a groove in the top lid edge to allow the wire to go through without pressure on the wire.
Here I connected the Ring Terminal for the ground wire to the chassis.
Completed work with the ground wire tucked around the air filter. It looks like it is going through the filter, though it isn't. Just around it.
So did this work for sure, ima give dis a try.
03-30-2011, 11:18 AM
#20
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 23
mechanicalhobby did the new sensor correct your problem? Anybody else have luck with grounding it out? Typically a "tap" test to the maf and it stalls out will indicate a internal short to the maf sensor. My wife drives the max and said it stalled on her today when backing up. no check eng light on. She then said it started and drove fine. So looks like I am going to have to start doing some checking on her car. Anyone know what the ect sensor should read when cold/hot? Im assuming you just measure it in ohms correct?
04-20-2011, 10:09 PM
#21
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 5
No, for me it did not fix the problem. I even replaced the MAF Sensor with a New one which cost a fair bit, however still have the problem. There is a root cause. If the engine light doesn't come on, I'm assuming it is mechanical. I spent about 25 mins after work yesterday trying to start it up after it stalled straight away after stating. Same problem today, though about 10 mins trying to start up. I'm going to pull apart the entire engine and and see what I can find.
mechanicalhobby did the new sensor correct your problem? Anybody else have luck with grounding it out? Typically a "tap" test to the maf and it stalls out will indicate a internal short to the maf sensor. My wife drives the max and said it stalled on her today when backing up. no check eng light on. She then said it started and drove fine. So looks like I am going to have to start doing some checking on her car. Anyone know what the ect sensor should read when cold/hot? Im assuming you just measure it in ohms correct?
04-21-2011, 06:16 AM
#23
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 5
Well, I cam across a neat discovery! I found that I can pull the codes from the ECU easily by going under the dash and turning the screw to show up the codes on the check engine light by flashing the codes to me, which I sat there reading and writing down. The result:
0102: MAF Sensor
0103: Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
0304: Knock Sensor
The MAF Sensor I ended up replacing completely and that is okay, just the old code still showing after playing with it and regrounding it.
The Knock Sensor I thought it could have been that, though the job is huge and I peaked down through the Engine Valley and it appeared okayish. A number of weeks ago I thought about changing it, but the cost was accumulating for everything, however... now that I know, I'm looking online where I can get a Knock Sensor replacement.
As for the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor, the last week I was suspecting that as well as an option, since I noticed that the fans would fire up randomly, even when I would sometimes start the car on an early cold morning with the engine completely cold. Regularly, I noticed the engine would stall within moments of the fans starting if the engine was cold. This part I'm also looking online for.
Does anyone know where I can get a fairly inexpensive Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor & a Knock Sensor from that would ship to Australia?
0102: MAF Sensor
0103: Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
0304: Knock Sensor
The MAF Sensor I ended up replacing completely and that is okay, just the old code still showing after playing with it and regrounding it.
The Knock Sensor I thought it could have been that, though the job is huge and I peaked down through the Engine Valley and it appeared okayish. A number of weeks ago I thought about changing it, but the cost was accumulating for everything, however... now that I know, I'm looking online where I can get a Knock Sensor replacement.
As for the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor, the last week I was suspecting that as well as an option, since I noticed that the fans would fire up randomly, even when I would sometimes start the car on an early cold morning with the engine completely cold. Regularly, I noticed the engine would stall within moments of the fans starting if the engine was cold. This part I'm also looking online for.
Does anyone know where I can get a fairly inexpensive Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor & a Knock Sensor from that would ship to Australia?
04-21-2011, 06:23 AM
#24
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 4,011
Well, I cam across a neat discovery! I found that I can pull the codes from the ECU easily by going under the dash and turning the screw to show up the codes on the check engine light by flashing the codes to me, which I sat there reading and writing down. The result:
0102: MAF Sensor
0103: Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
0304: Knock Sensor
The MAF Sensor I ended up replacing completely and that is okay, just the old code still showing after playing with it and regrounding it.
The Knock Sensor I thought it could have been that, though the job is huge and I peaked down through the Engine Valley and it appeared okayish. A number of weeks ago I thought about changing it, but the cost was accumulating for everything, however... now that I know, I'm looking online where I can get a Knock Sensor replacement.
As for the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor, the last week I was suspecting that as well as an option, since I noticed that the fans would fire up randomly, even when I would sometimes start the car on an early cold morning with the engine completely cold. Regularly, I noticed the engine would stall within moments of the fans starting if the engine was cold. This part I'm also looking online for.
Does anyone know where I can get a fairly inexpensive Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor & a Knock Sensor from that would ship to Australia?
0102: MAF Sensor
0103: Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
0304: Knock Sensor
The MAF Sensor I ended up replacing completely and that is okay, just the old code still showing after playing with it and regrounding it.
The Knock Sensor I thought it could have been that, though the job is huge and I peaked down through the Engine Valley and it appeared okayish. A number of weeks ago I thought about changing it, but the cost was accumulating for everything, however... now that I know, I'm looking online where I can get a Knock Sensor replacement.
As for the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor, the last week I was suspecting that as well as an option, since I noticed that the fans would fire up randomly, even when I would sometimes start the car on an early cold morning with the engine completely cold. Regularly, I noticed the engine would stall within moments of the fans starting if the engine was cold. This part I'm also looking online for.
Does anyone know where I can get a fairly inexpensive Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor & a Knock Sensor from that would ship to Australia?
04-21-2011, 06:35 AM
#25
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 5
Thanks, I found a KS on ebay, about 4 times the price in Australia compared to the US, though again it was just one listing. There were some from Hong Kong, but almost guaranteed a low quality KS, must prefered to buy from the US.
For the ECTS, are these universal? Do you think the chances are high that I will be able to walk out with an ECTS the same day I walk in? We have some good Auto shops here in Australia, though not sure if the ECTS is model specific? Thanks
For the ECTS, are these universal? Do you think the chances are high that I will be able to walk out with an ECTS the same day I walk in? We have some good Auto shops here in Australia, though not sure if the ECTS is model specific? Thanks
02-03-2024, 02:17 PM
#26
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Join Date: Feb 2024
Posts: 5
When I got the car the connector to the MAF sensor was cut off so I've been trying to figure out the order of the color wires since....I can get it started there's no codes but when I start it it revs by its self to 3.5 4 grand and will stay there till I hit the gas pedal witch then will bring it down to normal levels or kill it. Needless to say I haven't been able to actually drive this car in months. And I refuse to take it to a shop. Plus I don't have the money for that. Anyway.....any clues that could help me bring the rpm down so I could actually drive the thing. And does anyone know the order of the colored wires 5 pin on the MAF sensor???
02-03-2024, 06:11 PM
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,979
To Mad Butcher.
Welcome to the Maxima Forum.
However you are in the one for maxima from
1995 to 1999. You will find better help in the form for your year.
Now on to your problem.
I would visit a junkyard with basic tools.
I would find a maxima from your year or maxima forum.
1. Take a photo of the wiring which attaches to the sensor.
2. Cut off the portion of the wiring harness you need.
Welcome to the Maxima Forum.
However you are in the one for maxima from
1995 to 1999. You will find better help in the form for your year.
Now on to your problem.
I would visit a junkyard with basic tools.
I would find a maxima from your year or maxima forum.
1. Take a photo of the wiring which attaches to the sensor.
2. Cut off the portion of the wiring harness you need.
02-06-2024, 11:42 PM
#28
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2024
Posts: 5
What a relief, after weeks of dealing with stalling max, she purrs like a kitten again. The fix took 10 min, by simply running extra grounding wire from MAF to the chassis.
All stalling when coming to stop , shaking at idle, stalling in reverse and running rich is now gone !!!
If you experience stalling issues (with no CEL) and have tried all the basic troubleshooting like: clean TB, IACV, ECTS, plugs, fliters, coils etc and nothing seemed to help, you need to check your MAF sensor ground.
Simply back probe the black wire on MAF connector with positive lead of the voltmeter and negative lead pressed to one of the ground connections on the engine block.
The voltage at idle should be less than 9mv (0.009v), if it is above the value the sensor should be regrounded.
once the sensor is regrounded , the voltage should drop significantly.
Mine was around 0.277 at idle and 0.187 with ignition on ( engine not running)
after the fix the vlotage dropped to 0.005 at idle and 0.002 with ignition ON.
I'm glad that i was able to fix without having to take the car the mechanic/dealer.
I would still like to know what has caused my MAF sensor ground go out of specs, The sensor itself has passed the output voltage test listed in Haynes manual.
Also the manual says that the MAF can develop voltage signal problems that can't be seen on the voltmeter, the PCM can see such signal faults and driveability problems will result.
in cliff notes, if you Max stalls when comig to stop, check the ground to MAF it should be less than 0.009mv
Nick.
All stalling when coming to stop , shaking at idle, stalling in reverse and running rich is now gone !!!
If you experience stalling issues (with no CEL) and have tried all the basic troubleshooting like: clean TB, IACV, ECTS, plugs, fliters, coils etc and nothing seemed to help, you need to check your MAF sensor ground.
Simply back probe the black wire on MAF connector with positive lead of the voltmeter and negative lead pressed to one of the ground connections on the engine block.
The voltage at idle should be less than 9mv (0.009v), if it is above the value the sensor should be regrounded.
once the sensor is regrounded , the voltage should drop significantly.
Mine was around 0.277 at idle and 0.187 with ignition on ( engine not running)
after the fix the vlotage dropped to 0.005 at idle and 0.002 with ignition ON.
I'm glad that i was able to fix without having to take the car the mechanic/dealer.
I would still like to know what has caused my MAF sensor ground go out of specs, The sensor itself has passed the output voltage test listed in Haynes manual.
Also the manual says that the MAF can develop voltage signal problems that can't be seen on the voltmeter, the PCM can see such signal faults and driveability problems will result.
in cliff notes, if you Max stalls when comig to stop, check the ground to MAF it should be less than 0.009mv
Nick.
02-07-2024, 12:22 PM
#29
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,913
It was a 97 4th gen, but now my son drives 2003 I35, I'll take a picture of MAF wires on his car and post it here. Might want to ask in the 6th Gen section as well.
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