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Suggestion for bose headunit replacement

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Old 10-27-2006, 08:45 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by lordnikon9
I was referring to which wire the HU's remote wire is supposed to be hooked up to. I'm not understanding the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual well.
Basic Stereo Wiring is FAIRLY universal. Using the Haynes is a waste of time IMO. Try this:
White: LF+
White/Black: LF-
Gray: RF+
Green: LR+
Green/Black: LR-
Violet: RR+
Violet/Black: RR-
Red: 12V Ignition/Switched
Yellow: 12V Battery/Constant
Blue (OR Blue/White): Power Antenna/Amp Remote Turn-on
Black: Chassis Ground (12V-)
Orange: Illumination/Dimmer
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Old 10-28-2006, 11:44 PM
  #42  
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My unit has those exactly on the thing itself. It's just the odd things on the car's wiring that throw me off. Such things as Pink being ground and Blue being power and stuff. I'll try it again later this week, hopefully.
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Old 10-29-2006, 06:07 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by lordnikon9
My unit has those exactly on the thing itself. It's just the odd things on the car's wiring that throw me off. Such things as Pink being ground and Blue being power and stuff. I'll try it again later this week, hopefully.
You don't use the pink at all. There should be 2 blue's one is the one that turns your bose amps on.
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Old 10-29-2006, 08:12 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Sounbwoy
Most of the posts on here suggest and say that the adapter is required if using the factory speakers with an aftermarket HU. I know someone who switched SPEAKERS and kept the Bose HU and they worked but it didn't sound as good. I switched HU and bough the Scosche. It made the install simpler and my Bose speakers sound better than they did with the Bose HU. To me it's about compatibility. We know that the Boses run a different resistance rating. Since the adapter makes everything talk to each other, why not?
I'd rather spend the $40 and not have to worry about it. To each his own.
I'm going to second what he said. The PAC OEM NISS-2 adapter made it REALLY easy to connect the HU to the stock amp/speakers. I also found that the new HU sounds as good or better than the stock HU did. You probably could do it without the adapter, but the adapter makes the whole setup plug-n-play (no splicing into factory wires), which seems worth the money to me.

I installed my Alpine without any mounting kit. I just bought the dash pocket form the dealer (a rip-off at the MSRP price, but if you show your astonishment that a piece of plastic costs $40, they will knock the price down). The factory pocket is a little bigger than the one in the picture earlier in this thread and looks good IMO. The trick is getting the snap-on bezel to fit right around the HU. Most of the 1 DIN installs you see on here just skip putting the bezel on which looks half-done to me.

The antenna works the same as the factory radio (goes up only when the radio is on, goes down for other functions) with the Alpine. I can't comment on how it works with other brands.
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Old 10-29-2006, 08:35 PM
  #45  
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ground the radio right the the front screws of the radio. you can tell if it is a good ground or not by: before you completely intsall the radio, plug in the harness and the antenna. turn the radio on, then unplug the antenna if the radio shuts off the ground isnt good enough. the antenna provides enough ground for the radio on, but once you turn the volume up it will shut off.
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Old 10-29-2006, 08:38 PM
  #46  
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also make sure you hook up the power antenna wire, it is blue, not blue-white that is the remote turn on. other wise the reception will be crap. if it has a brown or pink wire, you dont need to hook those up. and i would recommend hooking in the dimmer, it can lok like crap and some HU flash and do wierd things like that, otherwise just matching the colors is what you do.
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