car wont rev above 2000 rpms
09-22-2006, 06:19 PM
#1
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car wont rev above 2000 rpms
I have changed the maf already and the problem persists. I have not checked the wiring yet. I may have some time in the morning. Is there anything else which will cause this problem? No cel at all and no codes.
A little back ground. The engine was replaced about a month ago. I have only driven the car maybe 100 miles and it was fine.The hood has been off the car and it has rained. I also did some welding on the car the other day. The neg battery cable was off the battery though. I thought i reved the car after the welding and it was fine but i never drove the car.
A little back ground. The engine was replaced about a month ago. I have only driven the car maybe 100 miles and it was fine.The hood has been off the car and it has rained. I also did some welding on the car the other day. The neg battery cable was off the battery though. I thought i reved the car after the welding and it was fine but i never drove the car.
09-23-2006, 06:20 AM
#3
Yea, if it can't rev passed 2000 than that means its directly related to the maf. Does the car shut off right away if you try to rev pass it? that's also a sympton of a disconnected maf
09-23-2006, 01:40 PM
#8
Originally Posted by fanaticrockford
It came from one of my other runing cars.
u can get one from www.pinnaclenissan.com
09-23-2006, 07:11 PM
#11
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Like i said guys the plug is not loose. When the car started doing it i removed the maf and installed one from another car that i drive around everyday and the problem is still there. So the maf is good.
I really don't see how a tps could cause this problem but will check.
I really don't see how a tps could cause this problem but will check.
09-23-2006, 09:19 PM
#13
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I tried a 3rd maf and the problem is still there. When i first start the car and it idles high i can rev it to redline. As soon as the car warms up then it won't go past 2k. So we may be on to something with the tps. I did unplug it but it didn't change anything. I have had problems with other tps' when they got wet.
09-23-2006, 09:29 PM
#14
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You need to use a voltmeter and make sure that there is a good connection to the sensor ... someone had to repush the wires in or resolder ... can't remember which. Afterward, all was fixed.
09-24-2006, 05:08 PM
#16
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Ok guys i really need your help on this one.
The maf is in 100% working condition.
I have changed the plug for the maf.
There is power to the maf
There is no breaks in the wire for the ground and input signal from the maf to the ecu. There was continuity for both wires.
The tps checked out good. The resistence was within spec.
There is power to the tps
The ground is good.
Input signal has continuity from tps to ecu.
I even removed the tb with tps and replaced it with one from a running car.
I also tried a diffrent ecu.
The problem is still there after all of that.
I did get it to rev up to the redline buy pressing the gas while i was cranking the car over. After a second the rpms would drop on ther own to 2k and it wouldn't rev past that.
The maf is in 100% working condition.
I have changed the plug for the maf.
There is power to the maf
There is no breaks in the wire for the ground and input signal from the maf to the ecu. There was continuity for both wires.
The tps checked out good. The resistence was within spec.
There is power to the tps
The ground is good.
Input signal has continuity from tps to ecu.
I even removed the tb with tps and replaced it with one from a running car.
I also tried a diffrent ecu.
The problem is still there after all of that.
I did get it to rev up to the redline buy pressing the gas while i was cranking the car over. After a second the rpms would drop on ther own to 2k and it wouldn't rev past that.
09-24-2006, 05:14 PM
#17
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This may sound stupid but have you pulled your codes? Make sure you check engine light even works. This may be the odd case where your CEL is disconnected/not working and you have a code.
Check by putting your car in the on position, but do not crank.
Check by putting your car in the on position, but do not crank.
09-24-2006, 07:21 PM
#18
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Originally Posted by scrhale
This may sound stupid but have you pulled your codes? Make sure you check engine light even works. This may be the odd case where your CEL is disconnected/not working and you have a code.
Check by putting your car in the on position, but do not crank.
Check by putting your car in the on position, but do not crank.
09-25-2006, 12:53 PM
#22
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I have unplugged the tps and even changed the entire tb with a tps and the problem didn't go away. I will check voltage with the car running. There is voltage with the ignition on but the car not running
09-25-2006, 07:51 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Did a CEL finally pop up?
05-25-2010, 01:21 PM
#28
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I am having the same issue with the 2000 ropm's. I have a 1996 max 5 spd. however the fan does not go on as soon as I turn the car on. When I turn the ignition key the CEL does nopt come on either. I assume it's not working... Does this have anything to do with the car not going past 2000 rpm's I also just replaced the MAFS and still the same problem!
05-25-2010, 05:13 PM
#30
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ECU gone bad? How do they go bad? I am new and inxperienced.
1996 max 5 spd - won't go past 2000 rpm's in any gear - even idle
No CEL when I turn the key half way when all the dummy lights go on. My CEL went on and off for years - had the car 12 years - 242k on it!
I replaced the MAFS and that did not good unless I had a bad one and the new 1 was bad too...
The dealer said they would have to hook it up to the diag for $115 and see what the problem is but from what I am gathering that may not detect the problem. I aske dif they could just clear and reset the ECU cause I heard that may do the trick.
You are saying the ECU (electric control unit) may have gone bad? I heard (from this forum) that if I reset the ECU that may solve the issue.
I just don't know what to do here and any help would be appreciated!
1996 max 5 spd - won't go past 2000 rpm's in any gear - even idle
No CEL when I turn the key half way when all the dummy lights go on. My CEL went on and off for years - had the car 12 years - 242k on it!
I replaced the MAFS and that did not good unless I had a bad one and the new 1 was bad too...
The dealer said they would have to hook it up to the diag for $115 and see what the problem is but from what I am gathering that may not detect the problem. I aske dif they could just clear and reset the ECU cause I heard that may do the trick.
You are saying the ECU (electric control unit) may have gone bad? I heard (from this forum) that if I reset the ECU that may solve the issue.
I just don't know what to do here and any help would be appreciated!
05-25-2010, 05:22 PM
#31
ECU gone bad? How do they go bad? I am new and inxperienced.
1996 max 5 spd - won't go past 2000 rpm's in any gear - even idle
No CEL when I turn the key half way when all the dummy lights go on. My CEL went on and off for years - had the car 12 years - 242k on it!
I replaced the MAFS and that did not good unless I had a bad one and the new 1 was bad too...
The dealer said they would have to hook it up to the diag for $115 and see what the problem is but from what I am gathering that may not detect the problem. I aske dif they could just clear and reset the ECU cause I heard that may do the trick.
You are saying the ECU (electric control unit) may have gone bad? I heard (from this forum) that if I reset the ECU that may solve the issue.
I just don't know what to do here and any help would be appreciated!
1996 max 5 spd - won't go past 2000 rpm's in any gear - even idle
No CEL when I turn the key half way when all the dummy lights go on. My CEL went on and off for years - had the car 12 years - 242k on it!
I replaced the MAFS and that did not good unless I had a bad one and the new 1 was bad too...
The dealer said they would have to hook it up to the diag for $115 and see what the problem is but from what I am gathering that may not detect the problem. I aske dif they could just clear and reset the ECU cause I heard that may do the trick.
You are saying the ECU (electric control unit) may have gone bad? I heard (from this forum) that if I reset the ECU that may solve the issue.
I just don't know what to do here and any help would be appreciated!
Better yet, you can buy your own scanner for the price the dealer wants to charge you. It allows you to scan the ecu for the problem and reset it for a temporary fix. I had a clogged EGR which caused 2 codes. 1 would return a few miles after being reset and the other would appear about twice a month which would cause my rpms to be limited (limp mode). You plug the scanner to that little plug right under you the driver-side dash, scan and reset so you can drive to get it repaired.
Last edited by EsQueue; 05-25-2010 at 05:28 PM.
05-25-2010, 05:31 PM
#32
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Auto zone said they can only check for codes (run a scan) if the Check Engine Light is on. They said otherwise it won't work. Are you saying that the CEL is just not lighting up and they can still run for the codes? I am getting a little lost here...
05-25-2010, 05:43 PM
#33
some codes ghost and wont illuminate a CEL or SES, but in this case i wouldnt assume so.. MAF's are usually pretty straight forward.. Where did you get the MAF you replaced your old one with from? Test MAF, Test Wiring, Test ECU; in that order.
resetting the ECU will just make the ECU rerun the diagnostics.. However that may be a good idea temporarally... Attempt to reset it and than try to rev her up past 2K, might help you figure out whats the culprit..
Also if you have a multimeter you can Ohm out the MAF, youll need to find the correct ratings in the FSM. Theres a Link in my Sig.
If all else fails bring that MAF back to the Dealer or whoever and get your money back; also i have one for sale for cheap if you come into the market for one.
resetting the ECU will just make the ECU rerun the diagnostics.. However that may be a good idea temporarally... Attempt to reset it and than try to rev her up past 2K, might help you figure out whats the culprit..
Also if you have a multimeter you can Ohm out the MAF, youll need to find the correct ratings in the FSM. Theres a Link in my Sig.
If all else fails bring that MAF back to the Dealer or whoever and get your money back; also i have one for sale for cheap if you come into the market for one.
05-25-2010, 05:51 PM
#34
Tell them that your light is blown. If your light is blown like your situation then I can't light. The fact that when you turn your key and all the dummy lights illuminate besides the CEL tells you that the light is blown. Before wasting your money on anything else, find a way for them to scan it. Ask them if you can rent the scanner. They have a great rental program where they return 100% of the money you pay when you return the item. I don't know if scanners are rented though.
Last edited by EsQueue; 05-25-2010 at 05:54 PM.
05-25-2010, 06:05 PM
#35
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Tell them that your light is blown. If your light is blown like your situation then I can't light. The fact that when you turn your key and all the dummy lights illuminate besides the CEL tells you that the light is blown. Before wasting your money on anything else, find a way for them to scan it. Ask them if you can rent the scanner. They have a great rental program where they return 100% of the money you pay when you return the item. I don't know if scanners are rented though.
I think Autozone will do the scan based on that. I can do that. OK when they do that then what? I am getting 2 different answers here. First said check MAFS and the wires etc... The 2nd said to get car scanned and pull the codes and then what do I do from there? If they reset the ECU will that do the trick? Could I have a bad ECU?
GRRRR I am getting confused now.
I think Autozone will do the scan based on that. I can do that. OK when they do that then what? I am getting 2 different answers here. First said check MAFS and the wires etc... The 2nd said to get car scanned and pull the codes and then what do I do from there? If they reset the ECU will that do the trick? Could I have a bad ECU?
GRRRR I am getting confused now.
05-25-2010, 06:13 PM
#36
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Posts: 113
I should have gotten my original MAFS tested first but I read so much on the fact that the MAFS is the culprit when it comes to the car not going past 2000 rpms in any gear. Guys please tak to me like I am 10. I am having a hard time understanding the lingo and the abbreviations and the wording in general. It's all new to me. I just know that if I take it to the dealer like I did today (after I took it to Pep Boys last week to have them replace the MAFS) then they want $115 to hook it up to the diagnostic. I do not know if that is a good or bad idea. I do not know what ghost codes are etc... I am actually a little lost and confused.... Please if you respond please explain like I am a child - laments terms please!
05-25-2010, 06:41 PM
#38
Tell them that your light is blown. If your light is blown like your situation then I can't light. The fact that when you turn your key and all the dummy lights illuminate besides the CEL tells you that the light is blown. Before wasting your money on anything else, find a way for them to scan it. Ask them if you can rent the scanner. They have a great rental program where they return 100% of the money you pay when you return the item. I don't know if scanners are rented though.
I think Autozone will do the scan based on that. I can do that. OK when they do that then what? I am getting 2 different answers here. First said check MAFS and the wires etc... The 2nd said to get car scanned and pull the codes and then what do I do from there? If they reset the ECU will that do the trick? Could I have a bad ECU?
GRRRR I am getting confused now.
I think Autozone will do the scan based on that. I can do that. OK when they do that then what? I am getting 2 different answers here. First said check MAFS and the wires etc... The 2nd said to get car scanned and pull the codes and then what do I do from there? If they reset the ECU will that do the trick? Could I have a bad ECU?
GRRRR I am getting confused now.
Ok, your car has a computer (ecu) that pretty much controls the car. If the car detects any problem with it will will light up the check engine light to tell you that there is a problem. Your problem is that your light is blown or has a short circuit so it can't light but the problem is still there and it will show up in a scan. Some of the problems that the car detects will cause it to go into a protection mode called limp mode which will limit the RPMs in an attemp to keep the engine safe. Autozone have a scanner that will tell you exactly what sensor that has a problem in your computer and their scanner can also reset your ECU so that it should drive ok until it finds the problem again.
So, don't waste anymore money and get it scanned which will tell you what is wrong. You can either repair the problem and then bring the car back to autozone for them to reset the ECU or just reset it but the problem will come back after the ECU detects it again.
05-25-2010, 06:47 PM
#39
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05-25-2010, 07:59 PM
#40
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OK I got all of that. Thanks you for breaking it all down. Now I did have the MAFS replaced last week at Pep Boys and the problem was still present after I picked the car up. Could it be that the problem was the MAFS and the fact that the ECU was not reset be the fix? Does the ECU have to be reset after a fix like that is done? I will do this 1st thing in the morning...