axle nut removal
06-18-2006, 12:53 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 142
axle nut removal
damn this thing is hard. i need to remove it in order to get my control arms (i do right??)
problem is i dont have an impact gun. how would i get the axle not to turn so that i can get torque on the 36mm axle nut?
problem is i dont have an impact gun. how would i get the axle not to turn so that i can get torque on the 36mm axle nut?
06-18-2006, 04:57 PM
#6
I took a sturdy bar, and put it across the wheel studs, and put the end of the bar on the top of a jackstand. That kept the wheel from rotating.
Then I took a 20" breaker bar and used my full jack handle as a cheater. Then you set it on the nut so the bar is about parallet to the floor and lift. Some heat and PB blaster in advance can help, but you simply need to get a lot of leverage to overcome the torque.
Dave
Then I took a 20" breaker bar and used my full jack handle as a cheater. Then you set it on the nut so the bar is about parallet to the floor and lift. Some heat and PB blaster in advance can help, but you simply need to get a lot of leverage to overcome the torque.
Dave
06-18-2006, 05:44 PM
#7
Use a breaker bar that used a 1in drive, and of course use a socket to fit that one inch drive. You can get one at sears part number # 4443 in the tool section. Go to your local hardware store purchase a lead pipe that fits over the breaker bar, get one that is appox. about 2 to 3 fit long. This will help for you leverage. Use these two items and hopefully you can take off the locking nut. Its gonna take a lot of strength, but it will be a lot easier to take off than just using a little dinky 1/2in drive breaker bar.
06-18-2006, 06:23 PM
#11
Originally Posted by RockfordMax
Oh. I dont like to read. Control arm disconnects at the ball joint from the knuckle. Axle can stay in the knuckle.
I used my air gun to take mine off, not that matters to him.
06-18-2006, 06:36 PM
#15
I decided not to clean off the half pound of axle grease from my blown CV boot before I did the work. I then decided to do the 2nd day of work in my new nike's. I got grease on my new nike's, but I DIDNT CLEAN THEM BECAUSE IM NOT GHEEEEEY!
Not that it matters to him.
Not that it matters to him.
06-18-2006, 06:47 PM
#16
Originally Posted by RockfordMax
I decided not to clean off the half pound of axle grease from my blown CV boot before I did the work. I then decided to do the 2nd day of work in my new nike's. I got grease on my new nike's, but I DIDNT CLEAN THEM BECAUSE IM NOT GHEEEEEY!
Not that it matters to him.
Not that it matters to him.
Get ure azz over here and get my passenger's side axle off this fukking bracket!!! Not that that would matter to him of course.
06-18-2006, 07:09 PM
#18
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 142
Originally Posted by maxfanfromohio
I scratched my nuts with my greasy hands while I was trying to get my axle out and it left grease on my shorts, not that it matters to him.
lots of good advice too..
06-19-2006, 05:54 AM
#22
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
I took a sturdy bar, and put it across the wheel studs, and put the end of the bar on the top of a jackstand. That kept the wheel from rotating.
Then I took a 20" breaker bar and used my full jack handle as a cheater. Then you set it on the nut so the bar is about parallet to the floor and lift. Some heat and PB blaster in advance can help, but you simply need to get a lot of leverage to overcome the torque.
Dave
Then I took a 20" breaker bar and used my full jack handle as a cheater. Then you set it on the nut so the bar is about parallet to the floor and lift. Some heat and PB blaster in advance can help, but you simply need to get a lot of leverage to overcome the torque.
Dave
06-19-2006, 07:32 AM
#23
Originally Posted by vvslavavv
I thought you had to take the steering knuckle off to get to the balljoint and remove it? How did you guys do it w/o removing it?
As well, depending on what tool you have for releasing the balljoint from the knuckle, you may need the axle out of the way. If the balljoint has never been removed from the knuckle it can be quite difficult.
As usual, the people from the salt-free states think he's doing it 'wrong'. When you live in a salt-belt state things often work out a little differently.
Dave
06-19-2006, 07:47 AM
#24
Originally Posted by RockfordMax
I'll snap a pic of the rig i used. It worked on the first pull.
06-19-2006, 07:49 AM
#25
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
An open-ended wrench can remove the nut with the axle in place, but since it's not a small nut it's not always easy.
As well, depending on what tool you have for releasing the balljoint from the knuckle, you may need the axle out of the way. If the balljoint has never been removed from the knuckle it can be quite difficult.
As usual, the people from the salt-free states think he's doing it 'wrong'. When you live in a salt-belt state things often work out a little differently.
Dave
As well, depending on what tool you have for releasing the balljoint from the knuckle, you may need the axle out of the way. If the balljoint has never been removed from the knuckle it can be quite difficult.
As usual, the people from the salt-free states think he's doing it 'wrong'. When you live in a salt-belt state things often work out a little differently.
Dave
Lot's of salt around here, but I didn't take the axle nut off to replace the control arm.
on the balljoint being a b!tch to get out of there.
06-19-2006, 10:39 AM
#28
Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: South of Boston, MA
Posts: 68
my axle nut was actually the reason (excuse) I went out and bought a compressor and heavy duty impact wrench... after breaking 2 1/2" ratchets and 1 1/2" breaker bar and one socket.
even though we have established that you don't need to take the axle out to get the control arm off, cant you either pop the center cap off from the stock 16" 5 spoke or use the spare tire? I don't remember which I used but I remember the tire was on the car and the car was on the ground which gave me plenty of grip. you might need a 1-2" extension though... it has been a while (thankfully) since I have had to take the axles off.
even though we have established that you don't need to take the axle out to get the control arm off, cant you either pop the center cap off from the stock 16" 5 spoke or use the spare tire? I don't remember which I used but I remember the tire was on the car and the car was on the ground which gave me plenty of grip. you might need a 1-2" extension though... it has been a while (thankfully) since I have had to take the axles off.
06-19-2006, 01:59 PM
#29
Originally Posted by maxfanfromohio
Lot's of salt around here, but I didn't take the axle nut off to replace the control arm. on the balljoint being a b!tch to get out of there.
on the balljoint being a b!tch to get out of there.
06-19-2006, 02:44 PM
#30
Originally Posted by vettefever5
my axle nut was actually the reason (excuse) I went out and bought a compressor and heavy duty impact wrench... after breaking 2 1/2" ratchets and 1 1/2" breaker bar and one socket.
even though we have established that you don't need to take the axle out to get the control arm off, cant you either pop the center cap off from the stock 16" 5 spoke or use the spare tire? I don't remember which I used but I remember the tire was on the car and the car was on the ground which gave me plenty of grip. you might need a 1-2" extension though... it has been a while (thankfully) since I have had to take the axles off.
even though we have established that you don't need to take the axle out to get the control arm off, cant you either pop the center cap off from the stock 16" 5 spoke or use the spare tire? I don't remember which I used but I remember the tire was on the car and the car was on the ground which gave me plenty of grip. you might need a 1-2" extension though... it has been a while (thankfully) since I have had to take the axles off.
06-19-2006, 04:15 PM
#31
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 142
this was the only reason why i assumed you needed to remove the axle nut:
http://maxima.cardomain.com/ride/348507/15
it looked like u didnt need to take apart the axle nut if u had a crescent wrench. so much for me trying to follow others ppl's directions.
not that it matters to u guys ...lol
http://maxima.cardomain.com/ride/348507/15
it looked like u didnt need to take apart the axle nut if u had a crescent wrench. so much for me trying to follow others ppl's directions.
not that it matters to u guys ...lol
06-19-2006, 04:20 PM
#32
hehe we started a mini-catchphrase.
You should always be trying to do the LEAST amount of work..... Sure you could disassemble the knuckle, remove the strut, take off the LCA, remove the sway bar, take out tie rod, and sand/media blast and powdercoat it all, but when all you are trying to do is replace your brake pads, its a little bit overkill
You should always be trying to do the LEAST amount of work..... Sure you could disassemble the knuckle, remove the strut, take off the LCA, remove the sway bar, take out tie rod, and sand/media blast and powdercoat it all, but when all you are trying to do is replace your brake pads, its a little bit overkill
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