My pass. side axle is seized. Please help.
06-04-2006, 03:06 PM
#1
My pass. side axle is seized. Please help.
It's stuck where the 3 bolts connect the axle to the car. Both brackets are rusted, and the axle won't come out. I am looking for suggestions on how to get it out of there. I have the car jacked up, and there isn't a whole lot of room under there to manuever. The driver's side came out in like 10 minutes. 11 years of Ohio winters MTMFL.
Thanks!
Thanks!
06-04-2006, 03:12 PM
#2
Are the bolts stripped? or you just cant break them free?
Soak then in WB-40 or equivalent. if your able to manufer a brake part (will be very hard) that could help you break it, or you'll need some heat.
I've used a heat gun on some bolts with WB-40 on them and its worked. . . (took long as F**k thought
)
Ninja edit: or when you get your 10mm wrench seated on it, bang the other end with your hand/rubber mallet/regular hammer to try and break the bolt free. Make sure the wrench is seated properly, dont strip the bolts.
Soak then in WB-40 or equivalent. if your able to manufer a brake part (will be very hard) that could help you break it, or you'll need some heat.
I've used a heat gun on some bolts with WB-40 on them and its worked. . . (took long as F**k thought
)Ninja edit: or when you get your 10mm wrench seated on it, bang the other end with your hand/rubber mallet/regular hammer to try and break the bolt free. Make sure the wrench is seated properly, dont strip the bolts.
06-04-2006, 03:20 PM
#4
Oh, atleast the bolts are out.
Try to wedge a screw driver (one of the big fat ones if you have one around) and try to pry it apart. Use a rubber mallet to band the end of the screw driver.
If you have your stock jack equipement, the hook with the spear like end on the other side could do the trick if you dont have a big flat head screw driver around.
All the bolts are out, are you tugging hard enough? I know when I tried to removed mine I was being moddest with it, but after I realised it wouldnt budge, I had to start to get tought with it so I could get it out.
Try to wedge a screw driver (one of the big fat ones if you have one around) and try to pry it apart. Use a rubber mallet to band the end of the screw driver.
If you have your stock jack equipement, the hook with the spear like end on the other side could do the trick if you dont have a big flat head screw driver around.
All the bolts are out, are you tugging hard enough? I know when I tried to removed mine I was being moddest with it, but after I realised it wouldnt budge, I had to start to get tought with it so I could get it out.
06-04-2006, 03:25 PM
#6
I'm tugging hard enough. I'm giving it all I've got Captain, if i give it anymore, she'll blow. I was trying to wedge a crow bar in there, but it's too close to the ground to wedge in there. I think I might have to go buy a different crow bar, or maybe a chisel to get in there with. This bish is frozen. I was hoping when I took the driver's side off I would be able to put something in the tranny and bang it out from the other side, but there is a bar in the middle. Damn it!
06-04-2006, 06:35 PM
#8
Originally Posted by fanaticrockford
which three bolts did you remove?
the ones bolting the axle to the bracket
or
the ones bolting the bracket to the block?
the ones bolting the axle to the bracket
or
the ones bolting the bracket to the block?
Missed this one. Are there more than 3? I removed the bolts that bolt the axle to the bracket that connects to the car. There were 10mm. I am hoping I just missed something rather than it being seized.
06-04-2006, 06:50 PM
#11
Originally Posted by Kevlo911
Hit it from the other side. The hole where drivers side came out.
I was hoping to, but there is a bar that goes across the middle in the tranny that blocks it.
06-04-2006, 06:51 PM
#13
Originally Posted by MDeezy
sadly you didnt there are just 3 10mm bolts. He was just making sure that you removed the correct ones.
if a crow-bar cant get the axle free, thats very discouraging.
if a crow-bar cant get the axle free, thats very discouraging.
I thought that was the case. I guess I am going o have to get some type of chisel and maybe a hand sledge to get that bracket lose. Ugh, ****** rust.
06-04-2006, 06:53 PM
#14
Originally Posted by THT
PB Blaster would be a more effective liquid wrench than WD40. I've had bolts that I couldn't break free w/ WD40 that came off with some liberal application of PB Blaster.
I am soaking it in PB Blaster as we speak. If that doesn't work maybe I will use some of my wifes KY Jelly.
06-04-2006, 06:56 PM
#16
Originally Posted by maxfanfromohio
I am soaking it in PB Blaster as we speak. If that doesn't work maybe I will use some of my wifes KY Jelly.
06-04-2006, 06:58 PM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 113
start with a small flat head screw driver and wedge it in between the axle and the bracket.... after you have the small one wedged in there, move up to a slightly bigger one... keep repeating until you can fit a tie rod seperator in there and then you can pry it apart...
i just did this 2 weeks ago and worked like a charm (after about 2 hrs anyway)
good luck
i just did this 2 weeks ago and worked like a charm (after about 2 hrs anyway)
good luck
06-04-2006, 07:04 PM
#18
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,204
I wouldn't waste your time trying to separate the two axle halves while they are still on the car. It is much easier to take the three bolts out that attach the bearing retainer to the block.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=436356
Remember that the bracket is located to the block with a tight tolerance pin. You may have to pry it away from the block after you get the three
bolts out.
I have had that axle out three times in the last year and I have never had a reason to separate the two halves. After 8 very salty Ontario winters, you cannot even tell that they are two separate parts.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=436356
Remember that the bracket is located to the block with a tight tolerance pin. You may have to pry it away from the block after you get the three
bolts out.
I have had that axle out three times in the last year and I have never had a reason to separate the two halves. After 8 very salty Ontario winters, you cannot even tell that they are two separate parts.
06-04-2006, 07:20 PM
#19
Originally Posted by eng92
I wouldn't waste your time trying to separate the two axle halves while they are still on the car. It is much easier to take the three bolts out that attach the bearing retainer to the block.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=436356
Remember that the bracket is located to the block with a tight tolerance pin. You may have to pry it away from the block after you get the three
bolts out.
I have had that axle out three times in the last year and I have never had a reason to separate the two halves. After 8 very salty Ontario winters, you cannot even tell that they are two separate parts.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=436356
Remember that the bracket is located to the block with a tight tolerance pin. You may have to pry it away from the block after you get the three
bolts out.
I have had that axle out three times in the last year and I have never had a reason to separate the two halves. After 8 very salty Ontario winters, you cannot even tell that they are two separate parts.
That's an interesting idea. I never thought of that angle. How hard is the bracket to remove? Are the bolts difficult to get to? Will I be better off to buy a new bracket or should my old one just be reused after beating the other piece off of it? Thanks for the help everyone.
06-04-2006, 07:42 PM
#20
This is why i asked which three you removed. I would remove the three 14 mm bolts the bolt the bracket to the engine block. You can get to all three from the wheel well. After the three bolts are out just hit the bracket and it should come free from the block. The axlea and bracket will come out together. Then you need to remove the three 10mm bolts you already removed.Set the side of the axle you removed from the trans on the cement and hit the bracket with a hammer a few times and it will seperate from the axle.
06-05-2006, 06:53 PM
#21
Originally Posted by fanaticrockford
This is why i asked which three you removed. I would remove the three 14 mm bolts the bolt the bracket to the engine block. You can get to all three from the wheel well. After the three bolts are out just hit the bracket and it should come free from the block. The axlea and bracket will come out together. Then you need to remove the three 10mm bolts you already removed.Set the side of the axle you removed from the trans on the cement and hit the bracket with a hammer a few times and it will seperate from the axle.
About the only thing I could do with the bolts that bolt the bracket to the frame is get a socket on them. I have no idea how you guys were able to turn them once the socket was on there. It is blocked by everything. I was able to get a socket with an extension on the one bolt that gave me enough room to get my air wrench on there, but the bolt was so rusted the wrench wouldnt turn. I'm kinda fukked here. I am hoping that a torch will get the bracket loose, because at this point, I don't see any other way to get that bish out of there.
06-05-2006, 06:59 PM
#22
You probably need a longer ratchet to get some leverage. Just get a socket and extension that is long enough to clear the axle. It shouldn't be this hard. The drivers side is the worst side.
06-05-2006, 07:10 PM
#23
Originally Posted by fanaticrockford
You probably need a longer ratchet to get some leverage. Just get a socket and extension that is long enough to clear the axle. It shouldn't be this hard. The drivers side is the worst side.
I have just about every ratchet extension that I can think of. The bottom bolt won't turn because it is blocked by the axle and the heat shield that is there. I'm not trying to be a pain in the azz noob, it's just turning out that way.
I appreciate your help though.The driver's side I had off in about 10 minutes from start to finish.
06-05-2006, 07:20 PM
#24
Originally Posted by maxfanfromohio
I have just about every ratchet extension that I can think of. The bottom bolt won't turn because it is blocked by the axle and the heat shield that is there. I'm not trying to be a pain in the azz noob, it's just turning out that way. I appreciate your help though.
The driver's side I had off in about 10 minutes from start to finish.
I appreciate your help though.The driver's side I had off in about 10 minutes from start to finish.
06-05-2006, 07:40 PM
#26
I have had to take the bracket off that joins the axle in the center. Once you get those three bolts out you have to beat the hell out of it with a hammer. I had to put it back on this way too because the bracket would not slide out because the bottom/side of my oil pan is tapped for an oil return line. Assuming I am reading the thread right you have take the three bolts out that bolt the bracket to the block. If that is the case then just knock that bish loose, I would not pry too hard since the block is aluminium, just hit the bracket with a hammer.
06-05-2006, 07:48 PM
#27
Originally Posted by cardana24
I have had to take the bracket off that joins the axle in the center. Once you get those three bolts out you have to beat the hell out of it with a hammer. I had to put it back on this way too because the bracket would not slide out because the bottom/side of my oil pan is tapped for an oil return line. Assuming I am reading the thread right you have take the three bolts out that bolt the bracket to the block. If that is the case then just knock that bish loose, I would not pry too hard since the block is aluminium, just hit the bracket with a hammer.
Yeah I have the 3 bolts out. I was slapping it with a hammer tonight, but I just couldn't get any azz on my swings because the car is so low with the jack. I know if it was on a lift I wouldn't be having such a hard time. I think I am going to heat it with a torch then bang it off of there. Hopefully tomorrow.
06-05-2006, 09:40 PM
#28
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 18
ok. when i did this i had the same problem. what i did is use a fat flathead screwdriver and a hammer. there are little humps where the three screws go in. what i did was hit one of the little humps on the part of the bearing that stays with the axle. as you hit it, it should start to turn therefore loosening the grip that the bracket has on the bearing. your left wheel will rotate a little at a time. i tryed to go easy on hitting since the axle is going into the tranny. as you turn this bearing your screwdriver wont seat on the same hump so go on to the next one. eventually you will have a gap between the bracket and the bearing that you can pry. have a friend pull at the axle while you pry. hope this helps.
06-06-2006, 07:20 AM
#31
Originally Posted by maxfanfromohio
Are you guys saying that a torch isn't a good idea?
I went through the same trouble when I tried to remove a passenger-side axle. In my case I gave up after two days of banging with a hammer/chisel and went to a shop. When I got back my car I went under the car to inspect it immediately after I got home. The support bearing (I think that is what Nissan calls the bracket thingy) was really hot, and I kinda figured that they must have used a torch to separate the axle from the support bearing.
06-06-2006, 08:15 AM
#33
Originally Posted by Mishmosh
chisel/hammer worked for me. Once I got a sliver open, then a flat-head screwdriver/hammer opened it up even more. Eventually, the pry bar... yadda yadda...out after 3 hours...
Fun times. I have a sliver open, but my scredriver isn't getting the job done. I don't think it is sharp enough. I am going to buy/borrow a chisel today. I have a friend coming over with a torch, so one way or another that bish is coming out.
06-06-2006, 01:30 PM
#34
i had the same problem, took it to a local shop where they took an air chizzel and they still couldnt get it off. they called another shop located down the street from them and they came over with an even more powerful one and they were able to bust it right off. they said there was no way i was gettin it off by hand.
06-08-2006, 09:05 PM
#35
Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 36
I had this same problem on my '97 I30 last fall. I unbolted the bracket from the block and then took it out. Once out of the car I beat the hell out the bracket to get it off. Weird thing was, once it came off there really wasn't much rust or anything holding it in. Before I put the new axle back in I made sure to thoroughly coat the inner edge of the bracket with some anti-sieze lubricant to ensure that if I ever have to remove that axle again, I won't have to fight the bracket.
06-13-2006, 05:38 PM
#37
Originally Posted by fanaticrockford
So what was the outcome?
That is yet to be determined. My car is still sitting on the jack/jackstand in my garage right now. I bought a 4 piece prybar set from Advanced Auto Parts, and I was trying to use that tonight. I worked a very small slither in there with the smallest prybar, but swinging the hammer with no clearance was kickin my azz. I gave up (again) and decided to drink beer instead. I'm much better at that. I thought about putting a chain on the axle and putting the other side of the chain on my wife's Pathfinder and pulling that ****** out of there, but I was afraid I would pull the car off the jack/jackstand. The bolts are seized, the bracket is seized, but the beer is cold, so I got that going for me. Which is nice. I have been driving my wife's former Maxima back and forth to work, but the driver's side balljoint is shot in that car and it makes driving it an experiance. The car will jump back and forth on the highway out of nowhere. I purchased a new control arm, so that is my next project when my Max is finally done. Good times. Thanks for asking though.
06-13-2006, 06:32 PM
#38
You can always try a slide hammer puller.. You may be able to borrow one from an Autozone or Checker as they're a bit pricey, but this is what I used when my axle was stuck. Something like this: http://www.autobarn.net/all648620.html
06-13-2006, 06:39 PM
#39
Originally Posted by Y2KSESteve
You can always try a slide hammer puller.. You may be able to borrow one from an Autozone or Checker as they're a bit pricey, but this is what I used when my axle was stuck. Something like this: http://www.autobarn.net/all648620.html
I'll try anything at this point, so I will certainly try this. Thank you.
06-15-2006, 07:12 PM
#40
Well, the hits just keep on coming. I rented the slide hammer puller that Steve suggested, and I really thought it was going to work. You slide a piece over the threads, and you thread the axle bolt back on to lock it in place, then you attach the other end to the puller which is a 5lb weight that slides up and down on a bar and stops when it hits the stopper. I gave it a couple of shots, but I wasn't getting any results, the axle was still seized. I took a sledge and hit the weight hoping to get better results. Nothing. So I went back to slamming the weight against the stopper, just giving it hell. The axle didn't budge, but I did rip the boot the rest of the way, and broke the cv joint. Ugh. Now I can't even use the fukking slide hammer puller anymore because there is nothing for it to attach to.
Back to the drawing board. Good times, good times.
Back to the drawing board. Good times, good times.