Hyperground DIY (pics galore)
05-05-2006, 05:09 PM
#1
Hyperground DIY (pics galore)
Ok so i searched for a hyperground write up for people who really have never done any kind of electrical fabrication (like me) and most of them were made with the assumption that the reader has some background with wiring and such. anyway, a lot of them lacked pics so i took some and will attempt to make a how-to. I did not take any pics of making the wiring but ill describe as best i can. if u see i messed something up please let me know!
materials i used--
>>>18+ feet of 8 gauge wire
I bought 20 feet of 8awg wire from radio shack for 24 cents per foot. It came off a large spool and it was red and said automotive wire all over it so I figured why not. I have about 3 feet left over. Each wire i needed, i just eyeballed how much i would need and cut it from the long piece, since i wasnt really trying to hide the wires but you can do what you want.
>>>a package of ring terminals
i bought this from advance auto parts, the smallest gauge they had was 10 i think so i had to strip a lot of wire down (probably reducing my 8 gauge to 10 gauge)
>>>electrical tape
>>>wire strippers
>>>razor blade
to trim anything
>>>10mm ratchet and extension
>>>battery post
advance
>>>grounding terminals
also from advance, it looks like a brass E and come in a package
This what it looks like when I finished.
1) cut wires to length
2) strip ends
3) attach either to ring terminal or to grounding connector
4) sand ground points
5) screw in
make sure the wires are in series, I personally did a daisy chain (where one wire goes to the next, not just going straight back to the battery)
Grounding points:
FACTORY INTAKE MANIFOLD GROUND (2)
FACTORY ALTERNATOR GROUND (if u dont know- between alternator and radiator...alternator is the roundish metal case on the pass side of bay, down low, with slits in it with a lot of copper wiring inside)
FACTORY PASS HEADLIGHT GROUND
NOT-FACTORY GROUND TO FIREWALL
materials i used--
>>>18+ feet of 8 gauge wire
I bought 20 feet of 8awg wire from radio shack for 24 cents per foot. It came off a large spool and it was red and said automotive wire all over it so I figured why not. I have about 3 feet left over. Each wire i needed, i just eyeballed how much i would need and cut it from the long piece, since i wasnt really trying to hide the wires but you can do what you want.
>>>a package of ring terminals
i bought this from advance auto parts, the smallest gauge they had was 10 i think so i had to strip a lot of wire down (probably reducing my 8 gauge to 10 gauge)
>>>electrical tape
>>>wire strippers
>>>razor blade
to trim anything
>>>10mm ratchet and extension
>>>battery post
advance
>>>grounding terminals
also from advance, it looks like a brass E and come in a package
This what it looks like when I finished.
1) cut wires to length
2) strip ends
3) attach either to ring terminal or to grounding connector
4) sand ground points
5) screw in
make sure the wires are in series, I personally did a daisy chain (where one wire goes to the next, not just going straight back to the battery)
Grounding points:
FACTORY INTAKE MANIFOLD GROUND (2)
FACTORY ALTERNATOR GROUND (if u dont know- between alternator and radiator...alternator is the roundish metal case on the pass side of bay, down low, with slits in it with a lot of copper wiring inside)
FACTORY PASS HEADLIGHT GROUND
NOT-FACTORY GROUND TO FIREWALL
05-05-2006, 05:13 PM
#3
old shot of when i skipped the alternator ground and grounded the engine
new configuration including alternator ground
not factory ground direct to chassis outside of chain
this was my chain order
neg battery terminal to intake manifold to alternator ground to factory pass headlight ground to firewall back to battery terminal
sorry i didnt measure any of the lengths exactly.
like i said in the other thread, my rpms are lower now and my a/c makes me idle at 900 rather than 1100 like before, among other little benefits. i would say this mod is about as important as the FSTB addition to the car, but it does look kinda good. hope this helps people
new configuration including alternator ground
not factory ground direct to chassis outside of chain
this was my chain order
neg battery terminal to intake manifold to alternator ground to factory pass headlight ground to firewall back to battery terminal
sorry i didnt measure any of the lengths exactly.
like i said in the other thread, my rpms are lower now and my a/c makes me idle at 900 rather than 1100 like before, among other little benefits. i would say this mod is about as important as the FSTB addition to the car, but it does look kinda good. hope this helps people
05-05-2006, 05:51 PM
#5
A+ for writing an DIY mod which I always like reading here on the forum.
B- for the looks of the wiring.
I would try to make it a little bit more stealth and hide the wires more but that's just me. I wanted to do this mod for awhile now but since you posted that you got your wires from Radio Shack for cheap, I guess I can give it a try when I have time this weekend.
B- for the looks of the wiring.
I would try to make it a little bit more stealth and hide the wires more but that's just me. I wanted to do this mod for awhile now but since you posted that you got your wires from Radio Shack for cheap, I guess I can give it a try when I have time this weekend.
05-05-2006, 06:44 PM
#9
He does it ghetto style when ur hood struts call it quits. I use a peice of pvc pipe to hold my hood up 
Ya the coolant cap needs to be replaced bc you dont want random crap going into your system.
Ya the coolant cap needs to be replaced bc you dont want random crap going into your system.
05-05-2006, 08:55 PM
#16
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 23
if you are looking for parts, you can get every thing from http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=100-178
05-05-2006, 09:01 PM
#17
Originally Posted by jackwu
if you are looking for parts, you can get every thing from http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=100-178
05-05-2006, 09:24 PM
#19
There's one in the driver's side inner fender, two by the windshield fluid resevoir, one on the alternator bracket, two by the front fuel injectors, one on the bottom left corner of the valve cover (on a bracket), and of course the one that connects to the negative terminal of the battery.
05-05-2006, 11:12 PM
#20
couple things-
i did this same mod using a "nismo" kit off ebay and some radioshack wire and terminals. i did all the same grounds as you plus some more. mine looks WAY better and less random. my wires are routed around the engine nicely.
you should add a transmission ground and a started ground. i did, and that made the biggest difference in the world. sure my car idled better due to the grounding kit, but the biggest thing i noticed was how much better my AUTOTRAGIC shifted. the started ground wasnt necessary with me because my car starts fine anyway, but i just did it, what the hellll. anyway, just my .02 cents.
i did this same mod using a "nismo" kit off ebay and some radioshack wire and terminals. i did all the same grounds as you plus some more. mine looks WAY better and less random. my wires are routed around the engine nicely.
you should add a transmission ground and a started ground. i did, and that made the biggest difference in the world. sure my car idled better due to the grounding kit, but the biggest thing i noticed was how much better my AUTOTRAGIC shifted. the started ground wasnt necessary with me because my car starts fine anyway, but i just did it, what the hellll. anyway, just my .02 cents.
05-05-2006, 11:36 PM
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 633
grounding kit made my lights brighter. I have one wire for alternator, one for transmission, one for intake manifold stuff and one from chassis to neg on battery.
I can't say it improved my shifts but the only result I was was that my headlights are brighter.
I can't say it improved my shifts but the only result I was was that my headlights are brighter.
05-06-2006, 05:20 AM
#22
ill just respond to everyone
personally i dont like red and yellow all over the place either. i bought the smaller black wire loom yesterday evening
thanks it was my first actually. im pretty new when it comes to DIY. yea i think it will look better with the smaller wire loom.
see above. and by routed right you mean not across things, or in a different order?
they are retarded if they dont. i saw it in a 12" cube white box with a hole in the front with red "automotive" wire coming out that had a slash through the $.99/ft. and was advertised as $.24/ft. it was pretty nice wire. if i get a chance (and some $$ )might be able to just ship u some. 
that would be one of my ice scrapers...my driveway is very slanted and the hood shocks cant handle the angle. my coolant resevoir cap is somewhere in a garage i got my car fixed when the thermostat was broken and 5 minutes of driving caused the temp to shoot right up to H. i considered taking that wire loom off but it is too big it is 3/4 inch diameter i think.
haha yea i know its ghetto but id rather do stuff at my house than drive to the parking lot at the pool. if u saw my driveway ud understand 10 year old shocks are no match. its w/e as long as i can get to it. the garage people say they didnt lose the cap either.
well the butt dyno didnt really feel much. everyone talks about how the car is "smoother" driving wise, but i didnt notice anything smoother about my shifts, maybe its smooth on auto trans. pressing the gas, i suppose is a little less hesitant, but its likely a placebo effect. i wouldnt say this is a serious performance mod. its more like having a start engine button on the interior: its functionality is overmastered by its looks and inherent satisfaction you feel "doing something" to your car.
see above
none taken i had already figured maxima.org and its mostly perfectionist tastes wouldnt like it but i probably should mention that before i put too much time into it (like with a lot more wires and buying more stuff) i wanted to see if these actually did anything beneficial, much like testing stereo equipment on your floor before it is drilled and routed through your drywall to look nice
see above
see above
ill say this the drivers side inner fender is quite difficult to get to without removing some parts like the corner light. i actually cant take mine out because the body shop bent the fender down onto it, so i had to skip that point.
im sure it does look better, but if you dont mind please be more specific, in that i could not find a diagram of the grounding points for those devices. i assume u mean find a screw attached to it, test it with a multimeter, then attach.
i suppose mine are brighter too, i actually was testing a headlight compared to my old ones so i only noticed the brightness difference there
Originally Posted by Torgus
no offence but that is ugly....
Originally Posted by aznprid972
A+ for writing an DIY mod which I always like reading here on the forum.
B- for the looks of the wiring.
I would try to make it a little bit more stealth and hide the wires more but that's just me. I wanted to do this mod for awhile now but since you posted that you got your wires from Radio Shack for cheap, I guess I can give it a try when I have time this weekend.
B- for the looks of the wiring.
I would try to make it a little bit more stealth and hide the wires more but that's just me. I wanted to do this mod for awhile now but since you posted that you got your wires from Radio Shack for cheap, I guess I can give it a try when I have time this weekend.
Originally Posted by Maxima-4DSC
if the wires were routed right it would be a nice setup. get some black wire loom and hide the wires.
Originally Posted by 99grnmaxgxe
Damn that's gay, just called my local Radioshack and they said they don't sell the wire by the foot. 
Nice write-up, I would try to organize the wire so it looks better. (Cleaner)
Nice write-up, I would try to organize the wire so it looks better. (Cleaner)
Originally Posted by 99grnmaxgxe
What's that holding up your hood?
Why is your coolant resevoir cap missing?
Why don't you take that wire loom off the AC lines and cover the ground wires?
Why is your coolant resevoir cap missing?
Why don't you take that wire loom off the AC lines and cover the ground wires?
Originally Posted by nishfish871
He does it ghetto style when ur hood struts call it quits. I use a peice of pvc pipe to hold my hood up Ya the coolant cap needs to be replaced bc you dont want random crap going into your system.
Ya the coolant cap needs to be replaced bc you dont want random crap going into your system.
Originally Posted by JSMax
Most importantly... did it make any difference in the butt dyno?
Looks can be changed later... preformance is now!
Looks can be changed later... preformance is now!
Originally Posted by MDeezy
this isnt a performance mod.
Originally Posted by Tim96I30t
No offense but that looks horrible because of the wires going all over the engine bay.
Originally Posted by Phycaf
points for effort but i would be ambarassed to show that off. like i said, you got the good idea and write up but i think myself and many other would want a cleaner setup......my $.02
Originally Posted by DR-Max
The wires need to be more incognito, especially the ones that are right over the valve cover fascia. Wires generally have to be tied down to safely secure them and prevent from entanglement.
Originally Posted by 99grnmaxgxe
There's one in the driver's side inner fender, two by the windshield fluid resevoir, one on the alternator bracket, two by the front fuel injectors, one on the bottom left corner of the valve cover (on a bracket), and of course the one that connects to the negative terminal of the battery.
Originally Posted by K-Town Max98
couple things-
i did this same mod using a "nismo" kit off ebay and some radioshack wire and terminals. i did all the same grounds as you plus some more. mine looks WAY better and less random. my wires are routed around the engine nicely.
you should add a transmission ground and a started ground. i did, and that made the biggest difference in the world. sure my car idled better due to the grounding kit, but the biggest thing i noticed was how much better my AUTOTRAGIC shifted. the started ground wasnt necessary with me because my car starts fine anyway, but i just did it, what the hellll. anyway, just my .02 cents.
i did this same mod using a "nismo" kit off ebay and some radioshack wire and terminals. i did all the same grounds as you plus some more. mine looks WAY better and less random. my wires are routed around the engine nicely.
you should add a transmission ground and a started ground. i did, and that made the biggest difference in the world. sure my car idled better due to the grounding kit, but the biggest thing i noticed was how much better my AUTOTRAGIC shifted. the started ground wasnt necessary with me because my car starts fine anyway, but i just did it, what the hellll. anyway, just my .02 cents.
Originally Posted by Brushedpewter
grounding kit made my lights brighter. I have one wire for alternator, one for transmission, one for intake manifold stuff and one from chassis to neg on battery.
I can't say it improved my shifts but the only result I was was that my headlights are brighter.
I can't say it improved my shifts but the only result I was was that my headlights are brighter.
05-06-2006, 08:41 AM
#25
Originally Posted by JSutter
so you didnt gound the block huh? or the drivers fender ground?
Originally Posted by incognito903
ill say this the drivers side inner fender is quite difficult to get to without removing some parts like the corner light. i actually cant take mine out because the body shop bent the fender down onto it, so i had to skip that point.
Originally Posted by RedfoxXx
thos wires are goan melt all over youre vq30
05-07-2006, 09:03 AM
#29
I will tell you right now this ground kit isn't as effective as it should be.
1) Everything grounds back to the battery, than to the actual grounding tab on the engine block.
2) The ground wires are too long.
Here is my ground kit:
Note that everything grounds direct to the block, and the main ground is an overkill 0 guage size.
1) Everything grounds back to the battery, than to the actual grounding tab on the engine block.
2) The ground wires are too long.
Here is my ground kit:
Note that everything grounds direct to the block, and the main ground is an overkill 0 guage size.
05-07-2006, 03:45 PM
#38
because people don't udnerstand what they're doing and simply think that sticking a bunch of wires on the engine is going to help the performance, without actually stopping to think about WHY they're doing it.
A properly designed kit, even with 12 or 18 awg wire will see improvements over the stock wiring. 8 awg is plenty and 4 awg is useless overkill. It's like sticking a 4" exhaust on a honda.
A properly designed kit, even with 12 or 18 awg wire will see improvements over the stock wiring. 8 awg is plenty and 4 awg is useless overkill. It's like sticking a 4" exhaust on a honda.
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