Dexter

i'd inspect the sparkplugs b4 running out and buying them, if you do change them get NGK's (some people prefer copper some prefer platinum)

Sounbwoy

iTrader: (2)

I have a 96 so I don't really know, but I had heard that too. Or maybe it was just the California cars that had that???
If you go back to the middle of the thread, you'll see that the person that told ME about it, never removed his pipe. He used a coat hanger and it was all good for him. I only removed it because I wanted to see it for my self.
I just tightened mine real snug until they stopped. They're not big bolts so super-human strength is not required.

dnd

iTrader: (1)

I cleaned mine this morning. I had troubles removing the small coolant line that's adjacent to the gas flow/temperature sensor: there wasn't enough room to use large needle-noses, and the mini ones I have were barely able to squeeze the clip. Nothing impossible, of course, but frustrating.

The greatest difficulty was removing the bottom bolts, which are the ones blocked by the large pipe (for some reason I had thought that the difficult ones were on the top). I had a "normal" 12mm combination wrench, like you'd buy at walmart or sears's basic line, which I think is too short. I bought a craftsman "professional" wrench (~3" longer), and I was able to pull without worrying that I was going to shear something (either the gas flow/temp sensor or my knuckles).

dnd

iTrader: (1)

I have a 99 and I think the pictures are fairly accurate. Any extra junk the 99s may have is closer to the front of the car or towards the driver's side.

That being said, I think they only start to make sense after the IACV plate (whatever it's called) has been removed. You can then see the brass pipe and the top mounting point (adjacent to the IACV plate parallel to the firewall) and the lower point (below the IACV plate).

I couldn't decide whether to use the nut driver or a short wobble extension on the 1/4" rachet. I ended up using the rachet, but that could partially have been to force myself to take care of the washers/nuts to ensure that I didn't drop anything. My experience has been that anything dropped back there disappears.

drumadore

I'm so glad I found a current EGR thread.

My 99 EGR has no vacuum hoses - the EGRC solenoid is mounted directly to it. Here is a picture of it.

I managed to find a bunch of old posts about my problem. I bought the car at about 72k miles (mid '04). It soon threw an EGR code. I had "it" cleaned - Lord knows what was actually cleaned/inspected. The code came back after a couple weeks. Dec '04 I had the EGR replaced before moving out of state - which prevented me from storming back in there when the light came back a month later. The car was running fine for about a year before I noticed it chugging a bit. That's when I found this site - awesome. I had the code pulled - (1)EGR malfunction, and (2) cylinder 1 misfire... Read a million posts, was certain it was the coil pack, replaced it, the light went off by itself on the way home. The light came back in a couple weeks. NOW, I have failed emmissions, have only weeks to fix it, and have just noticed MORE misfiring.

Can anyone post about the connection between bad coil packs and EGR codes? A friend that used to run a shop said the EPROM is probably bad. Well, 99's got no replaceable EPROM, and the computer is $$$! The Snap-On diagnostic tool ($4000) he used could not communicate with my computer. What the hell is going on??

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

to the best of my knowledge, there is no connection between bad coil packs and an EGR code (aside from a bad coil causing bad exhaust which could lead to a quicker clogging of the pipe). who cleaned "it" and what did they clean? What is the exact code you are getting? (use your ECU to pull the codes and count the flashing lights). Many components to the EGR system and although a clogged pipe is usually the cause, it could be something else.

drumadore

The code is 0302. I had it cleaned at (?)Allied and replaced at Pep Boys before I moved. Lord knows I should have looked for a Pep Boys in TN. I'm confident that no one cleaned the connecting tubes or anything BUT the EGR, based on the time it took. I'm gonna pull out that short pipe you've talked about as soon as daylight permits - may have to wait until Saturday. Also, I was running on that misfire for several months... any chance the catalytic converter figures into this?

FYI, I've read through this thread a few times. Erbentraut seems to have had the same problem, and others chime in with coil pack + EGR problems. It has quite the ending...

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

well, 0302 is very common.it is the flow code. I highly doubt pepboys cleaned anything aside from maybe cleaning the actual ERG which is almost never where the blockage occurs. and if they claimed to have replaced something then i am fairly sure they didnt touch the right part. you need to clean/have the small EGR tube cleaned thoroughly. I could be wrong but the onlyshop i could imagine doing this properly would be a dealership or yourself unless the shop deals significantly with maximas. I am sure if you gave the mechanic detailed instructions it could be done, but why pay someone $300+ when you can clean if yourself for the cost of a small ratchet set and 2 bottles of TB Cleaner. not to mention that you will end up cleaning the TB and IAC Valve in the process.

depechek

Sounbwoy,
Could you bring these pics back to life? Pls. I am attempting to fix this EGR problem. Thanks in adv.

Sounbwoy

iTrader: (2)

Should be back up now...

drumadore

That pipe... it looks like it's tightened against gaskets.... Looks like they're the same size as the EGR gaskets. Should I pick up a couple extra?

Sounbwoy

iTrader: (2)

It wouldn't hurt. I reused mine....

depechek

Thanks man!! I will try this when I get back from my trip.

gassian

So can I get to the bottom bolts of the metal EGR tueb from the top of the car?? or I have to get under the car?

Sounbwoy

iTrader: (2)

You can do everything from the top..
Just take a look at it before you start and work slowly and methodically. If you're really tall, then have a masseuse (sp) handy when you're done. If you have access to a lift, that would probably help somewhat...

jimmy9252

with 156K miles on our 96 maxima se, just got the P0400 error code. Went to autozone and the guy checked it for free. also failed state inspection for emmisions. glad that everyone on this thread were nice enough to leave detailed info: i'll get cranking on it this weekend and follow Sounbwoy procedure and clean out the 3 pipes.
I did some checking under the hood today and with the possibility of sounding like a d****s, ask for forgiveness in advance if any of the questions are too retarded:
- I revved the throttle to see if the EGR valve stem was moving. Well, looking from top down, it didnt seem anything was moving ??? am I supposed to reach under and touch the bottom of the EGR ?? is that where the moving stem is; obviously, from the top, only way to know is if I pt my hand on it.
- Why does the IACV have to be removed ? is it only to make space to get to one of the tubes in question ? I couldnt see where the IACV hooked up to any of these tubes in all the attached schematics.
- in order to get to the EGR, all the air filter and throttle body assembly have to be removed ???

Thanks guys. from all responses on the board, sounds like this would solve the issue. I'll hold off on buying parts until I do the clean first and drive 100 miles to see if the engine light comes on again. By the ways, our maxima is running fine, no pinging or anything, no drop in power. Just the failed emmisions.

Adios
Jimmy

Sounbwoy

iTrader: (2)

I revved the throttle to see if the EGR valve stem was moving. I never even took the time to do this. I just replaced it, even after I found out the old one was just as good.

Why does the IACV have to be removed ? is it only to make space to get to one of the tubes in question
Yes. The IACV stuff does not link with the EGR system. If you're going to clean that tube, removing the IACV is the best way, unless you remove the IM which is what some people have done. Even then , it has to come off.

in order to get to the EGR, all the air filter and throttle body assembly have to be removed
It gives you more access...

our maxima is running fine, no pinging or anything, no drop in power.
I drove mine for almost a year with no issues.

magic_max

I'm having problems getting to the bottom nuts of the EGR guide tube that connects to the collector and engine block. The big pipe from the EGR valve gets in the way and i'm having problems removing that pipe too. Exactly what tools should i use and what parts do i have to remove in order to get to the bottom nuts of the EGR guide tube?

Sounbwoy

iTrader: (2)

Magic, I'm not looking at the car right now so my memory's a bit foggy...I DO remember a small adjustable wrench came in handy at some point. It's not going to be a cakewalk to do it, so it really comes down to just looking at it and figuring out what works. The adjustable is the only other tool I had to buy. Crazy as it sounds, my breaker bar and a tapered 10mm socket also came in handy somewhere. I just don't remember specifically where!! Sorry...

gpmax

iTrader: (2)

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