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JUST got alternator replaced, tested, battery tested, STILL SAME VOLTAGE!!! $*#(@)$*)

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Old 03-08-2006, 05:03 AM
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Anyone?!?!
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Old 03-08-2006, 09:29 AM
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Damn no one knows???
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Old 03-18-2006, 02:22 PM
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Just got a new Optima Red Top swapped thru warranty, same deal with voltage.
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Old 03-18-2006, 05:17 PM
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With all you have done I would say live with it and don't worry about it. The voltage does sound high, but if any battery can stand up to it, it would be the Optima.
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Old 03-18-2006, 05:19 PM
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yes, keep an eye on it, but dont worry about it.
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Old 03-18-2006, 06:31 PM
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Am I the only one who wishes he had thsi problem? I usually read about 12volts while charging.. I need a new battery.. and possibly a new alt
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Old 03-18-2006, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by whitegold
Am I the only one who wishes he had thsi problem? I usually read about 12volts while charging.. I need a new battery.. and possibly a new alt
If his situation was really a problem (I think he's fine at the voltage read out he's getting) why would you want that? too much voltage can be as bad as not enough voltage.
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Old 03-20-2006, 05:20 AM
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Well when I first start it up bone cold.

SAFC II read 14.9-15.0
Radar reads 14.9-15.0

Just driving around normally no highway...
SAFC II reads 14.3-14.5

Driving on Highway...
SAFC II reads 14.7-14.8 sometimes 14.9
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Old 03-20-2006, 10:04 AM
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i dunno but check your fuses
maybe thats why your lights are going nuts on you
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Old 11-13-2010, 07:57 PM
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I know this thread is very old but I have had the same problem. Once I replaced the ALT.S fuse under the hood the problem disappeared - no more overcharging and no more lights on the dash.
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Old 11-13-2010, 09:32 PM
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How accurate is the multimeter that you are using? I'm an electronics guy and I know first hand that multimeters vary. And I wouldn't rely on your radar detector and safc to be dead on ***** accurate either as there main purposes is not to be a volt meter . Just my 0.02
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Old 11-13-2010, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by trini_max21
How accurate is the multimeter that you are using? I'm an electronics guy and I know first hand that multimeters vary. And I wouldn't rely on your radar detector and safc to be dead on ***** accurate either as there main purposes is not to be a volt meter . Just my 0.02
DUDE............this thread is 4 years old! I'm pretty sure its fixed by now.
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Old 11-14-2010, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by HarrisH
This is garbage. I'm so mad. I just got the alternator replaced with a brand new OEM Nissan alty. The voltage from the original in my opinion was to high 14.8-15.0 when driving. I knew it had to have been the alternator since it was a reman'd. So I purchased an OEM one, put it in, and guess what? Voltage is STILL the same. So I got the battery tested, guess what? IT'S GOOD! So why can't I charge at 14.0-14.5 V???
check all the grounds
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Old 11-14-2010, 12:26 PM
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check all the grounds.. one on the alt and one on the trans
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Old 11-14-2010, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by turk1215
check all the grounds.. one on the alt and one on the trans
Check the thread date.

I'm sure he checked it 4+ years ago.
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Old 11-14-2010, 12:28 PM
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wheres the ecm?
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Old 11-14-2010, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by turk1215
wheres the ecm?
die
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Old 11-14-2010, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by nismos14
die
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Old 11-14-2010, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by beegeezy
ditto
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Old 11-14-2010, 05:30 PM
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aww lol i thought this thread was informative :/
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Old 11-15-2010, 11:13 AM
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Did anyone consider consulting the FSM four years ago? There is a good flow chart on troubleshooting alternator/charging problems. It shows that unless the voltage exceeds 15.5VDC the voltage regulator located in the alternator and the alternator are fine.

I can't believe the OP was so worried about a 0.5V difference.
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Old 04-17-2014, 12:02 PM
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ALT.S fuse

I had the exact same problem for a few months. I took the "monitor it and see approach". I first noticed that the voltage was too high when I checked it after changing the crankshaft pulley and the two serpentine belts. The voltage would usually stay between 14.8 and 15.2V, even at idle with very little load. I just came across this thread and the only person who got it right, at least in my case, was luedemann in his post on November 13th of 2010. I read how he changed the 7.5 amp ATL.S fuse in the fuse box by the battery under the hood and that fixed the problem for him. I went out and checked my 1996 Maxima and, yup, that fuse was blown. I didn't change anything but the fuse and it fixed it. Now it runs around 14.3V @1500 RPM. I think that the higher voltage DID do some damage to my battery though because even after a long drive, the battery voltage is only at 11 volts with the car shut off and it almost doesn't start if it is too cold out. Anyways... Thanks luedemann!!
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