Wheel lug nut wont come off
#1
Wheel lug nut wont come off
I need help, i was trying to take my front wheel out,but one lug nut wont come off,it just turns and turns i guess the thread is messed up. I can i get it off?
#3
can you still drive on the wheel/tire or are you taking it off beacuse it needs to be replaced, if you can drive on it go to a locla tire shop and ask them to hit it with their air wrench, my tire shop once tightened the lugs on my old car so tight that when i went to change the brake pads i bent my lug wrench (kinda cheap), i had to bring it back, have them lossen in with the air wrench, then re tighten it by hand
#5
Originally Posted by matty
If you have a tourch, heat it up a bit and it will break easier.
-matt
-matt
Uhhh... i wouldnt do that...you will melt the paint on the wheel... just brake off the one that you already have on, then get urself another wheel stud and replace it... no point of struggling with it... (make sure u apply some grease to the stud as well....)
#8
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (54)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Northern Jersey
Posts: 10,166
Originally Posted by f550maranello2
Uhhh... i wouldnt do that...you will melt the paint on the wheel... just brake off the one that you already have on, then get urself another wheel stud and replace it... no point of struggling with it... (make sure u apply some grease to the stud as well....)
-matt
#10
Go to home depot and get yourself a 1" dia. galvanized steel pipe. At least 12 inches long. Put it over the breaker bar and you got yourself all the torque in the world to get that nut off by means of leverage. The pipe shouldn't cost more than $10.00 and its a great investment for future repair work.
#11
does the whole lug move ? if so then cut it off and put a new one in, if not and just the bolt move then yes your tread is gone put a screwdriver or other leverage device behind it push the nut forward and loosen. either way your going to have to change the lug. good luck.
#12
If the lug is not stripped and it's still turning, the teeth that hold the stud in place are probably striped.
I've fixed this before, you'll need an impact gun & a long pry bar (36"-40"). Remove all other lug nuts and use the pry bar to pull the wheel away from the hub, and put pressure on the stud. This should help keep it from spinning in place while you zip off the lug nut with the impact gun. If you try a breaker bar, it won't work, you need the impact action to break it loose with out forcing the stud to spin more.
Just don't pry against the rotor or strut. And make sure the car is very stable on jack stands. Or even better go to a shop, they will have a pry bar & will put the car on a lift. Then get a new stud.
I've fixed this before, you'll need an impact gun & a long pry bar (36"-40"). Remove all other lug nuts and use the pry bar to pull the wheel away from the hub, and put pressure on the stud. This should help keep it from spinning in place while you zip off the lug nut with the impact gun. If you try a breaker bar, it won't work, you need the impact action to break it loose with out forcing the stud to spin more.
Just don't pry against the rotor or strut. And make sure the car is very stable on jack stands. Or even better go to a shop, they will have a pry bar & will put the car on a lift. Then get a new stud.
#13
It is probably cross-threaded, break it off and buy a new wheel stud and lug nut for $8 at Autozone, if you can, put it on yourself or go to a shop and have them put it in for you. It should cost around $35 for labor, this has happened to me on 4 lugnuts.
#14
Originally Posted by 99grnmaxgxe
It is probably cross-threaded, break it off and buy a new wheel stud and lug nut for $8 at Autozone, if you can, put it on yourself or go to a shop and have them put it in for you. It should cost around $35 for labor, this has happened to me on 4 lugnuts.
#16
what you can do is start of with drilling a little hole in the middle of the lugnut and keep enlarging it without actually drilling into the stud and soon enough the lugnut will just crack open, i've done it, it worked for me, or just replace the wheel stud
#18
speaking from experience, i just took my ratchet and kept screwing it in till that bad boy twisted and cracked off then i poped out the stud and replaced it. put some muscle into it, and it should go. if not then take a air gun to it, if you dont own one go to a tire shop.
-rafal
-rafal
#19
Here's one that I had to do a few months back.
1. Take all of the other lug nuts off.
2. Slide a hacksaw blade between the back of the wheel and the face of your rotor.
3. Brace the back of blade against one of your good studs and put the teeth against the bad stud. Hold one end of the blade with some vice grips.
4. Use an impact wrench to turn the bad stud against the blade. This ends up cutting through it like it's on a lathe.
1. Take all of the other lug nuts off.
2. Slide a hacksaw blade between the back of the wheel and the face of your rotor.
3. Brace the back of blade against one of your good studs and put the teeth against the bad stud. Hold one end of the blade with some vice grips.
4. Use an impact wrench to turn the bad stud against the blade. This ends up cutting through it like it's on a lathe.
#21
old_G22
half the dipsh!ts responding to your thread don't know what the hell they are talking about with the exception of ryant35 and boone. Follow either of their advice.
To the rest of you: the lug is not frozen, the threads are stripped in the middle of the stud and it spins but will not come off since threads remain at the end of the stud and will not engage.
maxima_kid ............ how the hell is he going to tighten it when the threads are stripped? duuuuuhhhhhh
half the dipsh!ts responding to your thread don't know what the hell they are talking about with the exception of ryant35 and boone. Follow either of their advice.
To the rest of you: the lug is not frozen, the threads are stripped in the middle of the stud and it spins but will not come off since threads remain at the end of the stud and will not engage.
maxima_kid ............ how the hell is he going to tighten it when the threads are stripped? duuuuuhhhhhh
#22
Originally Posted by sonicrunch
old_G22
half the dipsh!ts responding to your thread don't know what the hell they are talking about with the exception of ryant35 and boone. Follow either of their advice.
To the rest of you: the lug is not frozen, the threads are stripped in the middle of the stud and it spins but will not come off since threads remain at the end of the stud and will not engage.
maxima_kid ............ how the hell is he going to tighten it when the threads are stripped? duuuuuhhhhhh
half the dipsh!ts responding to your thread don't know what the hell they are talking about with the exception of ryant35 and boone. Follow either of their advice.
To the rest of you: the lug is not frozen, the threads are stripped in the middle of the stud and it spins but will not come off since threads remain at the end of the stud and will not engage.
maxima_kid ............ how the hell is he going to tighten it when the threads are stripped? duuuuuhhhhhh
#23
ryant35 is on the right track IMO, I've had this happen to me except I didn't have an impact gun I pryed the wheel as far forward as possible and used a hacksaw on the bolt from behind the wheel major PTA! What seemed like hours later and a bucket of sweat it came off and I replaced the stud, good luck.
Originally Posted by ryant35
If the lug is not stripped and it's still turning, the teeth that hold the stud in place are probably striped.
I've fixed this before, you'll need an impact gun & a long pry bar (36"-40"). Remove all other lug nuts and use the pry bar to pull the wheel away from the hub, and put pressure on the stud. This should help keep it from spinning in place while you zip off the lug nut with the impact gun. If you try a breaker bar, it won't work, you need the impact action to break it loose with out forcing the stud to spin more.
Just don't pry against the rotor or strut. And make sure the car is very stable on jack stands. Or even better go to a shop, they will have a pry bar & will put the car on a lift. Then get a new stud.
I've fixed this before, you'll need an impact gun & a long pry bar (36"-40"). Remove all other lug nuts and use the pry bar to pull the wheel away from the hub, and put pressure on the stud. This should help keep it from spinning in place while you zip off the lug nut with the impact gun. If you try a breaker bar, it won't work, you need the impact action to break it loose with out forcing the stud to spin more.
Just don't pry against the rotor or strut. And make sure the car is very stable on jack stands. Or even better go to a shop, they will have a pry bar & will put the car on a lift. Then get a new stud.
#24
Thanks for all your responses, i am sorry, i had to go out of town the day i posted it. I just got back a few hrs ago.I dont wanna torch it,i mite damage my wheels. The stud is not moving, the thread is messed up making the lug nut spin in the same area.I am gonna try to do what boone said,,I hope i have enough space to slide in a hack saw..I will keep yall posted, Thank you very much..
#25
Originally Posted by sonicrunch
maxima_kid ............ how the hell is he going to tighten it when the threads are stripped? duuuuuhhhhhh
#26
What kind of wheels do you have? Are the lug nuts open on one end? or are they closed.
The best thing for you to do in my opinion is to get some drill bits and start drilling into the stud from the outside. Get progressively larger until you drill out the entire stud.
If you have enough clearance you can get a nut extractor. These work with an impact wrench. You put the extractor (it looks like a socket) over the nut, put the impact wrench in reverse, and it grips the nut. Then you can pull back on the nut with the extractor over it and it will probably catch the remaining thread and come right out.
I think I got an extractor for 39.99. It's worth the money in your case. You're looking at a major pain in the butt on your hands.
The best thing for you to do in my opinion is to get some drill bits and start drilling into the stud from the outside. Get progressively larger until you drill out the entire stud.
If you have enough clearance you can get a nut extractor. These work with an impact wrench. You put the extractor (it looks like a socket) over the nut, put the impact wrench in reverse, and it grips the nut. Then you can pull back on the nut with the extractor over it and it will probably catch the remaining thread and come right out.
I think I got an extractor for 39.99. It's worth the money in your case. You're looking at a major pain in the butt on your hands.
#27
its raining today. .. I have 17 konig appeals, my lugs are closed ends. thats a good idea, thanks paredline. maxima kid,that should work if i can get it to tighten again,i cant tighten or loosen it
#29
Another thing you can do is get a pair of needle nose Vice grips. Try to grip the nut and twist it backwards while pulling trying to get it back on the threads. Hopefully you can re-lodge the threads (even if its cross threaded) enough to get the thing off. If it keeps stripping then just keep pulling back. eventually you'll strip the entire stud.
When you replace the stud get Motormite studs. They are a little longer than stock. I just replaced all my rear studs from Advance Auto Parts for 98 cents a piece.
When you replace the stud get Motormite studs. They are a little longer than stock. I just replaced all my rear studs from Advance Auto Parts for 98 cents a piece.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
lowpost99
1st & 2nd Generation Maxima (1981-1984 and 1985-1988)
7
05-16-2021 11:18 AM