Squeeky suspension... What could be the problem?
#1
Squeeky suspension... What could be the problem?
I've noticed that when I go over bumps or rough road my suspension squeeks and its getting annoying and embarassing... People say " that car looks nice and clean but it sounds old and worn" What could be the problem? Any advice?
Thanks,
Thanks,
#6
Originally Posted by BORQUA79
thanks ball joints Ill add that to the O2 sensor replacement and carpet shampoo appointment this month... Thanks again
#10
I have the same squeak on mine, the balljoints are all good and the struts and mounts are only a year old, but it sounds like it's coming from pretty high up on the suspension. I'd just take the thing to a mechanic and have them diagnose it and just do the work yourself. Most shops will tell you everything that's wrong with your car and then you can just go fix it yourself.
#11
If it's squeaks you're getting, and not creaks, then it's most likely caused by one or more bushings. As a test, get under the car and spray some silicone dry lube on all your bushings (control arm bushings, tie rod end bushings etc.) and see if that makes a difference. Also check to make sure that none of them are falling apart. Your bushings take a bigger beating with a stiffer setup. If they are, I recommend investing in some Energy Suspension bushings.
You may also want to make sure that all the bolts that hold your struts in place are tight and torqued to spec. Just don't over torque them.
You may also want to make sure that all the bolts that hold your struts in place are tight and torqued to spec. Just don't over torque them.
#12
Originally Posted by rocco5446
If it's squeaks you're getting, and not creaks, then it's most likely caused by one or more bushings. As a test, get under the car and spray some silicone dry lube on all your bushings (control arm bushings, tie rod end bushings etc.) and see if that makes a difference. Also check to make sure that none of them are falling apart. Your bushings take a bigger beating with a stiffer setup. If they are, I recommend investing in some Energy Suspension bushings.
You may also want to make sure that all the bolts that hold your struts in place are tight and torqued to spec. Just don't over torque them.
You may also want to make sure that all the bolts that hold your struts in place are tight and torqued to spec. Just don't over torque them.
Besides that I have an appointment with my mechanic... i might as well do my tune-up while Im there...
#13
Originally Posted by mzmtg
The chamfered deflector isolation shims on your johnson rods are probably worn. Call the dealer and order some new ones. They shouldn't be more than $20 each (you'll probably need 3 of them).
Whats a johnson rod or chamfered deflector isolation shims???
Im totally clueless... and very much a novice on those parts aswell as others...
Thanks
#14
Originally Posted by BORQUA79
WOW... I feel like im lost in a lecture on stem cell regenerative hydrophysics class... j/k
Whats a johnson rod or chamfered deflector isolation shims???
Im totally clueless... and very much a novice on those parts aswell as others...
Thanks
Whats a johnson rod or chamfered deflector isolation shims???
Im totally clueless... and very much a novice on those parts aswell as others...
Thanks
Anyway, just replace the strut bearing.
#15
Originally Posted by JwaxMax99
It's orgers form of entertainment...
Anyway, just replace the strut bearing.
Anyway, just replace the strut bearing.
LOL... Anyway thanks for the advice Jwax
Im gonna test the olde Johnson Rod now
#16
I had creaks and squeeks and clunks coming from my suspension too. (GC and AGX set up)
What I found:
I replaced the upper strut bearings. This fixed the clunking sounds. This sound occurs when you are turning, and the worn bearing causes the upper strut seating to not turn. Because the seating isnt turning it causes it to turn the spring and work past the torque of turning the strut, on the stuck strut bearing. Just make sure that when you lift your car that these are in the proper spots and that they will seat in right when the car is lowered back down)
For the creaking and squeeking:
The GC set up comes with eibach springs but no spring wrap. So where the spring coils are close to each other, you will have contact on these areas (metal on metal = creaking and squeeking) As a tip from a fellow orger I went to Home Depot (or Lowes) and got this wire rap. It is pastic and comes in a cut coil. Very easy to warp around the spring even when springs are still on the car. Put this at the top and bottom of the springs where the coils get close to each other. Not on the part where the spring sits tho.
This should alleviate your sounds...if it sounds like the problems i was having.
-Steve
What I found:
I replaced the upper strut bearings. This fixed the clunking sounds. This sound occurs when you are turning, and the worn bearing causes the upper strut seating to not turn. Because the seating isnt turning it causes it to turn the spring and work past the torque of turning the strut, on the stuck strut bearing. Just make sure that when you lift your car that these are in the proper spots and that they will seat in right when the car is lowered back down)
For the creaking and squeeking:
The GC set up comes with eibach springs but no spring wrap. So where the spring coils are close to each other, you will have contact on these areas (metal on metal = creaking and squeeking) As a tip from a fellow orger I went to Home Depot (or Lowes) and got this wire rap. It is pastic and comes in a cut coil. Very easy to warp around the spring even when springs are still on the car. Put this at the top and bottom of the springs where the coils get close to each other. Not on the part where the spring sits tho.
This should alleviate your sounds...if it sounds like the problems i was having.
-Steve
#17
S Cranaw speaks the truth. It's the spring isolators, aka the spring wrap. Most new strusts/springs have enough paint that they don't squeak right away. Give them about 6months to a year and they will wear off enuff powder coat to hit raw metal against each other. It will sound pretty bad.
If you look where the spring meets the strut you will see exactly what I mean. There is probably paint being/been worn off the strut--and it's squeak like hell.
If you look where the spring meets the strut you will see exactly what I mean. There is probably paint being/been worn off the strut--and it's squeak like hell.
#18
Originally Posted by S Cranaw
I had creaks and squeeks and clunks coming from my suspension too. (GC and AGX set up)
What I found:
I replaced the upper strut bearings. This fixed the clunking sounds. This sound occurs when you are turning, and the worn bearing causes the upper strut seating to not turn. Because the seating isnt turning it causes it to turn the spring and work past the torque of turning the strut, on the stuck strut bearing. Just make sure that when you lift your car that these are in the proper spots and that they will seat in right when the car is lowered back down)
For the creaking and squeeking:
The GC set up comes with eibach springs but no spring wrap. So where the spring coils are close to each other, you will have contact on these areas (metal on metal = creaking and squeeking) As a tip from a fellow orger I went to Home Depot (or Lowes) and got this wire rap. It is pastic and comes in a cut coil. Very easy to warp around the spring even when springs are still on the car. Put this at the top and bottom of the springs where the coils get close to each other. Not on the part where the spring sits tho.
This should alleviate your sounds...if it sounds like the problems i was having.
-Steve
What I found:
I replaced the upper strut bearings. This fixed the clunking sounds. This sound occurs when you are turning, and the worn bearing causes the upper strut seating to not turn. Because the seating isnt turning it causes it to turn the spring and work past the torque of turning the strut, on the stuck strut bearing. Just make sure that when you lift your car that these are in the proper spots and that they will seat in right when the car is lowered back down)
For the creaking and squeeking:
The GC set up comes with eibach springs but no spring wrap. So where the spring coils are close to each other, you will have contact on these areas (metal on metal = creaking and squeeking) As a tip from a fellow orger I went to Home Depot (or Lowes) and got this wire rap. It is pastic and comes in a cut coil. Very easy to warp around the spring even when springs are still on the car. Put this at the top and bottom of the springs where the coils get close to each other. Not on the part where the spring sits tho.
This should alleviate your sounds...if it sounds like the problems i was having.
-Steve
I also had some popping sounds when turning and a loose feeling steering wheel, turns out I needed a new ball joint on one side, and a new inner tie rod on the other. I went ahead and replaced both lower control arms (including ball joints) and I replaced both inner and both outer tie rods. It feels so much better now...
But that damn squeaking and clunking is getting embarassing, especially where I live where every street in my zip code needs to be resurfaced.... I'm going to get the mounts replaced which will hopefully eliminate the clunking sounds like you said. Will I need to have the wheels aligned after I do this?
And also, about the spring wrap... I want to buy some and put it on, but I'm not exactly sure what I should be looking for or asking for at Home Depot, is there a more specific name for it??
I appreciate any help I can get...
Thanks
#21
I have a similar problem...when I back down my driveway, at the end over the curb, the left side makes a loud noise, like a spring type of noise... err - eee. I had the strut bearning replaced a few months ago and that fixed the banging noise while turning as explained above. Any ideas on this? It kind of sounds like a similar problem that was mentioned originally. Everything is stock and original ('95, 205k miles).
#22
im getting that same high pitch eee eee noise over bumps, put in new isolators (old ones missing) and it didnt do a thing. i just happen to order new coilovers, just gonna replace evrything
and how can u tell if ball joints are good by looking at them?
and how can u tell if ball joints are good by looking at them?
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