phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

This is the exhaust information thread. DO NOT POST QUESTIONS IN THIS THREAD.

You MAY post new sound clips, but I will merge them into the existing sound clip posts.

Information:

Can I put a 5th gen muffler on my 4th gen?

Yes, you can. But it yeilds no extra hp. 1 if you are lucky.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=88696
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=83239
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=67254

Should I punch out (gut) the catalytic converter?

Don't do this. It is illegal. It is bad for the environment. It will gain you little improvement.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=69102

Doesn't an engine need backpressure to make power?

Exhaust system backpressure is ALWAYS BAD! Engines do not need backpressure to make good torque. What an engine needs is a system that maintains high exhaust stream velocity at low RPM.

AWESOME info about different exhaust mods, including some installation information:
http://greghome.com/Greg's%20Garage/...nce%20Mods.htm <---Cut and paste in browser- it is well worth it!

How to install an aftermarket Y-pipe in your garage

After installing, and removing and installing aftermarket y-pipes on 6 different maximas and doing it on my car 5 times (don't ask), I feel that I've got it down to a science.

This is what you'll need to do to make it as painless as possible:

1. take your car to a local muffler shop and have them remove and replace the two bolts that attach the stock y-pipe to the cat. (These bolts are typically rusted on BAD) This will cost about 15 bucks and it will save you A LOT of hassle later.

2. Get these tools:

* 3/8in drive socket wrench (prefferably a pretty big one)
* 14mm deep socket
* 12mm deep socket
* 10mm socket
* 22mm box set wrench or O2 sensor socket
* 12 inch 3/8 drive extension
* universal 3/8 drive swivel (for hard to get at rear bank bolts)
* jack stands or ramps
* LOTS of WD-40 or PB blaster
* good work light
* something padded to lay on while under the car (you'll be under there for a while)

3. Jack the car up (or drive onto ramps) and soak all 8 bolts and O2 sensors with WD-40 or PB blaster and let them soak for about 10 minutes (make sure car is pretty cool before you do this or the stuff will just burn off)

4. remove the 2 12mm bolts that hold the y-pipe to the engine block (they come off really easy)

5. loosen the 2 14mm cat bolts

6. loosen the 6 14mm y-pipe to manifold bolts (2 of the rear ones will require the swivel extension) These will requre a lot of elbow grease...don't be afraid to use a lot of force on them....you will NOT need an impact wrench. I've pulled all 6 of them off a max with 120K miles on it no problem.

7. loosen and remove the 2 o2 sensors on y-pipe. The front one will be REALLY hard to get to. You might have to disconnect the harness for the front 02 sensor located in the engine bay in front of the front valve cover (right behind the radiator) and give yourself some slack to work with so you can lower the y-pipe a bit before loosening and removing the front 02 sensor

8. Now everything should be loosened, you can remove all the bolts and slowly lower the stock y-pipe to the floor (be careful, this thing weights 25lbs and it's very ackward to balance while laying on your back.

9. There is a heat sheld that you will probably have to remove for clearance with the new pipe. I believe it has 2-3 10mm bolts holding it in place and it's near the drive axle.

10. The aftermarket y should go in the same way the stock one came out. It will be MUCH easier to bolt in becuase it's much less bulky. Make sure to use new crush ring gaskets and a new cat gasket. You can use anti-sieze on the bolts when you install the new pipe if you choose.

11. Tighten everything up, reattach the O2 harness, lower the car...and ENJOY your added POWER

Credit: BriGuyMax

More info: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/255278/3

Changing Upstream O2 sensors:

Necessary tools:

*3/8" drive ratchet
*16mm O2 sensor removal ratchet (rent it from Autozone for free)
*OEM upstream O2 sensor(s)
*Anti-seize
*PB Blaster (or WD40)
*Scissors

1. Put the front end of the car on ramps or jackstands
2. Spray the O2 sensors with PB blaster (or other lubricant) to make removal easier; wait ten minutes.
3. Using the O2 sensor ratchet attachment, loosen the current O2 sensors that are installed in the "Y" portion of the Y-pipe
4. Trace the sensor harness up to the engine bay and unplug it. One will be close to the cabin, to the left of the spark plugs; the other will be clipped by the radiator, towards the front of the car
5. Cut the plastic things holding the harness; there will be multiple ones
6. Completely unscrew the O2 sensors
7. Plug in the new sensors to the now-empty connectors that the old sensors were attached to
8. Dangle the sensor from the engine bay to the underbody of the car, taking care to do it SLOWLY so you don't damage the sensor
9. Put a little anti-seize on the threads of the sensors (if there isn’t any already)
10. Screw 'em in and you're done.

Changing Downstream O2 sensor:

Necessary tools:

*12mm wrench
*OEM downstream O2 sensor
*Anti-seize
*PB Blaster (or WD40)
*Scissors

1. Put the rear end of the car on ramps or jackstands
2. Locate the downstream O2 sensor; it is in rear-half the catalytic converter, on the driver’s side (middle of the car is where you should be looking)
3. Spray the sensor with PB Blaster or WD40
4. Trace the harness to the underbody of the car
5. Pull on the harness until the rubber seal pops free
6. Disconnect the old sensor from the harness
7. Apply anti-seize to the new O2 sensor (if it doesn’t already have some); take care not to get the compound on the sensor head
8. Screw in the sensor
9. Connect the new sensor to the harness
10. Jam the excess wiring back into the hole and close it up with the rubber seal
11. Using one of the supplied zip ties, secure any slack wiring.

__________________________________________________

Useful picture to post up for clarification purposes, it's not as messy as the FSM picture.

http://forums.maxima.org/members/tun...exhaust-2.html

Noting the OE size for the cat, piping, res, and muffler would be useful info for anyone considering custom work.

__________________________________________

You should really clean the mating surfaces when installing any exhaust system.

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

What do I need to consider as I build my own custom exhaust setup?

If there is not a system on the market that meets your needs, you could always roll your own system. And if you do it right, it will be as good as, maybe even better than a commercially produced system. It will probably be cheaper, too.

First, we'll explain how the different parts of an exhaust work so you can choose the best pieces, then show you how you can build a high-performance system with perhaps some help from your local muffler shop or a friendly welder. No matter how small a town you live in, you should still be able to get this stuff done.

THE MUFFLER
The key part of your exhaust system is the muffler. The muffler is the can at the end of your exhaust whose main purpose in life is to make the exhaust noise quiet. To be the whisper-quiet device most car owners demand, a typical stock muffler must have an intricate, labyrinthine flow path to help slow and cool the hot, vibrating exhaust gas. It contains baffles that cause the exhaust flow to reverse direction and intermix. These are great for reducing noise but are not so great for flow. The twists and turns the exhaust must endure in a stock muffler are restrictions that cause excess backpressure. You can run in a straight line faster than you can run in a tight, fun-house maze, right? The same goes for your exhaust gas.

To produce the most power, an exhaust should have minimal restriction on the exhaust flow. Restriction hampers the burned exhaust gases from exiting your engine, causing some charge dilution with the incoming fresh fuel air mixture. If all the exhaust gas cannot escape from your cylinders, it dilutes the flammable power-producing intake mixture that is trying to come in. The diluted mixture does not burn as well as a pure mixture.

This causes a loss of power. You don't feel so energetic at a packed club with lots of cigarette smoke, sweaty bodies and hot stuffy air right? Neither does your engine.

With greater restriction, backpressure is generated, making the engine work harder to pump the exhaust out of the cylinders. That work could be used to turn the wheels instead.

BACKPRESSURE = TORQUE?
An old hot-rodder's tall tale: Engines need some backpressure to work properly and make torque. That is not true. What engines need is low backpressure, but high exhaust stream velocity. A fast-moving but free-flowing gas column in the exhaust helps create a rarefaction or a negative pressure wave behind the exhaust valve as it opens. This vacuum helps scavenge the cylinder of exhaust gas faster and more thoroughly with less pumping losses. An exhaust pipe that is too big in diameter has low backpressure but lower velocity. The low velocity reduces the effectiveness of this scavenging effect, which has the greatest impact on low-end torque.

Low backpressure and high exhaust stream velocity can be achieved by running straight-through free-flowing mufflers and small pipe diameters. The only two exceptions to this are turbocharged engines and engines optimized for large amounts of nitrous oxide. Both of these devices vastly increase the exhaust gas volume and simply need larger pipes to get rid of it all.

Some stock mufflers and exhaust systems have up to 18psi of choking, power-robbing backpressure. In direct contrast, a well-designed, high-performance street exhaust system typically has about 2 to 6 psi of backpressure. For an interesting comparison, an un-muffled straight pipe on a real racecar usually has 1 to 3 psi of backpressure.

To get the least amount of backpressure, most of the good, high-performance mufflers available today have what is called a straight-through design. These mufflers quiet the exhaust by absorbing high-frequency vibrations in heat-resistant packing, usually consisting of stainless-steel mesh and heat-resistant ceramic fibers.

They typically have an inner core that is straight-through with no baffling at all, much like a straight pipe with many small holes in it. The pipe is louvered or perforated when it passes inside the muffler's shell, allowing sound energy to pass through the holes but leaving the exhaust gas flow unimpeded. You can see straight through these types of mufflers. The louvered or perforated core is usually wrapped with either fiberglass wadding (hence the old-school term, Glass Pack) or, in the better mufflers, stainless-steel mesh backed by ceramic fiber to help further absorb the sound.

On straight-through mufflers, the longer the muffler and the bigger the can, the quieter it is. The length usually has no effect on backpressure, just noise output. These absorption type mufflers work in the same manner as the silencers used on guns. If a silencer had baffles that impeded bullet travel, you would definitely have problems! The same is for a perforated core absorption muffler, straight through, no baffles, no restriction, and no backpressure.

It is best to avoid straight-through mufflers that have a louvered core. Many old-school glass packs suffer from this design. Some spiffy polished stainless and big tip mufflers on the market also have these. The louvers generate quite a bit of backpressure because they stick into the exhaust stream and create considerable turbulence. Even though these mufflers are a straight-through design, they can have more backpressure than a stock muffler.



MagnaFlow has a line of universal high performance mufflers in many different shapes, diameters and lengths. The muffler and pre-silencer we got from MagnaFlow are made from high-quality polished 304 stainless and feature a perforated core wrapped with stainless mesh and ceramic wool. Note how the perforated core is straight with no obstructions to the flow.

When buying a straight-through muffler, look for one with a perforated core if you are interested in producing more power. A good, properly sized, perforated-core straight-through muffler will add only about 1 to 2 psi of backpressure to your exhaust system. Mufflers like the Walker Ultra Flow, Thermal, A'pexi, Borla, Edelbrock or MagnaFlow are examples of good, low-backpressure mufflers with an absorption design. Many Pre-made exhausts like A'pexi, Tanabe, Greddy, Borla, MagnaFlow, Thermal or HKS also have mufflers of the free-flowing absorption design.

An old-school type performance muffler, which is still very common in speed shops, that has seen better days is the Turbo Muffler. This is a less restrictive version of a stock-like reverse flow muffler. In the old days, these were well flowing mufflers, but now the new-jack perforated core, straight through absorption types, has superseded them, Many old-school domestic shops will try to sell you one of these as a hot set-up, but they should be avoided, just like the louvered core glass-pack.



A disadvantage to the straight-through muffler is that it is often louder than a reverse-flow muffler. Usually a straight-through muffler needs a small sub muffler or resonator to keep the exhaust quiet. A resonator is usually a small, perforated core glass pack placed somewhere in-between the catalytic converter and the main muffler. Like the main muffler, the longer the resonator, the better a sub muffler will be for noise reduction. A Walker Magnum Glass-Pack is a good muffler to use as a resonator. Almost all of the pre-made performance exhausts feature resonators.

Some good performance mufflers are only available with a semi-universal 2.5-inch inner diameter. If you have a smaller engine that requires a 2-inch pipe, it is still OK to use a main muffler with a slightly bigger inside diameter. This larger step up in diameter at the very end of the exhaust system won't hurt performance and sometimes can help it slightly.

When designing your own custom exhaust, it is important to remember to make it as quiet as possible. Loud might be cool to you, but remember that a too loud exhaust is perhaps the number one harassment ticket given to performance enthusiasts by your friendly law enforcement officer. Don't ask how we know this.

TIPS ON TIPS
What about the tip? Big tips do nothing for power but can dress up the back of your car. Some like to install ridiculously large tips on tiny stock mufflers or on stock cars. Take this too far, and you may find pictures of your car featured on Web sites like riceboypage.com or beaterz.com.

If you are on a tight budget, save your money and don't get a big tip until you get the performance exhaust system (and maybe the engine) to go with it. This advice may preserve your dignity. Some big tips feature resonated cores, which quiet the exhaust's note by a few dB. You can spot these with their usually perforated or mesh inner pipes. These big tips are actually functional and the discerning eyes of the world of pipe fashion may actually forgive the use of a resonated tip. Maybe.

On an entirely practical note, remember that cops like big shiny tips too. Nothing tells a cop pull me over and bust me like a big *** tip.

THE EXHAUST PIPE
To save costs, your typical stock exhaust uses small diameter, crush bent pipe. Crush bends are easy to make in mass production. However, crush bends can reduce the flow of a pipe by up to 50 percent. Your typical exhaust system made by the local neighborhood muffler shop is also crush bent. The best exhaust systems, like most Japanese pre-made exhaust systems, come with mandrel bends.

Mandrel bending is done by a special machine that uses a non-crushable insert, or mandrel, that goes into the pipe while bending to prevent it from being crushed. If you are making your own exhaust, you can buy pre-made mandrel bends from MagnaFlow, Burns Stainless, Kinsler or Bassini. The huge speed parts mail order emporium Summit Racing stocks both the right kinds of mufflers and mandrel bends.

It is better to use a smaller diameter mandrel bent pipe than a larger crush bent pipe. Remember that maintaining velocity is just as important as reducing backpressure.

PIPE DIAMETER GUIDELINES
Some basic exhaust pipe diameter guidelines for non-turbo cars are as follows:
1,500cc-2,000cc engines : 2-inch
2,100cc-2,500cc engines : 2.25-inch
2,600cc-3,000cc engines : 2.5-inch
Add half an inch to the pipe diameter to optimize for nitrous oxide use because of the increased exhaust gas volume. Remember this may be too big for optimal operation when you aren't on the bottle. For turbocharged engines, 2.5-inch is the minimum size pipe that you would want to run, even for the smaller engines. For 2,000cc and bigger engines, 3-inch works well, and for bigger engines the biggest (usually 3.5-inch) you can find is appropriate. It is almost impossible to have too big of an exhaust on a turbo car.

BUILDING IT
First you must buy mandrel bends from any of the aforementioned suppliers. The mandrel bends and tubing are made in mild steel, or if you want to get fancy, many companies also make them out of 304 or 409 stainless. Of these choices, 304 is more desirable as it is more corrosion resistant and can be polished to a mirror finish. It is also more expensive. 409 stainless is more rust resistant than aluminized mild steel but it cannot polish and turns brownish purple with age. If you use stainless, be sure you have your muffler shop use a proper stainless welding rod.

Next, select your muffler and pre-silencer. It is usually best on a streetcar to get the longest mufflers that will fit under your car for the quietest exhaust note. If you stick with perforated core stuff, it will not cause any increase in back pressure and no loss in performance. A perforated core tip will also help your exhaust be quieter.

Next, find a local welder, fabricator or muffler shop that is willing to work with these mandrel bends instead of crush bent tubing. Look under the car and figure out how to lay out the exhaust system using cut sections of the mandrel bends. Cut sections of the bends and piece them together, tack welding them first until the position is finalized, then once the final configuration is made, seam weld the joints using a MIG, or preferably TIG welder using the proper welding rod. If you can help it, do not use a gas or unshielded arc electric welder.


MagnaFlow makes pre mandrel bent sections of tubing out of 304 stainless that can be cut up to make your exhaust system.


To make a real sano all-stainless system, MagnaFlow also sells stainless exhaust hangers.

Once you have the basic shape laid out, you will need to attach hangers and flanges. Most good muffler shops stock these. If at all possible, use the stock exhaust hanger locations; this will minimize the vibration transmitted into the car.

Next, you will want to degrease the new exhaust and paint with heat-resistant paint, like VHT or Thermo-Tec if the system is aluminized or bare steel. 304 stainless can be left bare or taken to a local plating shop and polished. 409 stainless can be left bare, but can't be polished.

If you want to get fancy, you can box your system out and send it out to be ceramic or thermal barrier coated by Swain Technologies, Jet Hot or many other companies. Most large urban centers have coating shops that can do this. These extra steps are worth it when it comes to having a sano and long-lasting finished product.

Finally, relax and enjoy the power. With careful fabrication, you can built a system as good as, if not better than what you can buy pre-made. This sort of system can be built using the resources available in just about any town.

TO CAT OR NOT TO CAT
Whatever you do, do not remove or gut out the catalytic converter on your street machine. The monolithic, straight-through design of modern three-way catalytic converters is usually quite free flowing on most modern imports, producing at the most, only a pound or two of extra backpressure. A gutted cat can actually hurt power as the empty box can cause flow stagnation, which effectively shortens the length of the moving gas column in the exhaust pipe. The empty box can also reduce important flow velocity. This can be felt as loss in bottom-end power.

Because of these factors, it is not unusual for cars to actually gain power with the addition of a cat. If every last bit of power must be extracted, as in real, off-the-street sanctioned racing, then the cat can be removed and replaced with a length of pipe the same diameter of the rest of the exhaust system, not simply gutted to a power robbing shell. A full race turbo or nitrous oxide system can benefit from removing the cat when racing levels of boost or nitrous are being run. Boost or nitrous flow levels you would run on the street on pump gas are not enough to warrant cat removal for performance gain.

If you need to change your factory cat for a larger, high-flowing one, Random Technology and MagnaFlow make replacement cats with 3-inch or even larger inlets and outlets.



All done! Our new system is nicer than just about any on the market and flows well enough for our 400-hp turbo engine. It is also reasonably quiet and is low profile enough not to scream "give me a ticket please." Note the big hole of the tip extends through the whole exhaust system; no rice-boy stuff, all business and all performance. When we paint the car, we will send the system to the local polisher to shine it up.

Note: This was adapted from a Magnaflow article, but can obviously be adapted to any custom setup that you choose!

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

Please post relevant information, comments, or more links to other vids/clips if you have them. Thanks.

Btw, just a viewing tip for the clips hosted on www.putfile.com and other streaming sites, they will usually be choppy the first time you view it, but let it finish streaming, hit "Play" again, and it should be fine the 2nd time round.

VQ30, Custom Cold Air Intake, WS Y-pipe, Magnaflow Highflow cat and Greddy Sp2

Link 1: http://media.putfile.com/Sp2Exhaust (clip from outside the car)
Link 2: http://media.putfile.com/IntSp2Exhaust (clip from inside)

Bomz Short Ram Intake, Stone Racing Y-Pipe, OTTO Racing muffler
http://media.putfile.com/Q45t-and-Max


VQ30, Stillen Y-Pipe, Budget HighFlow Cat, GReddy SP2 CatBack

http://media.putfile.com/MAXIMATAKEOFF

Megan Racing Exhaust. (no other info available)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKwZdM8H88o

Budget y-pipe/b-pipe/Highflow cat/Flowmaster 40/CAI

http://media.putfile.com/Maxima38

Frankencar Midpipe, K&N Filter, Cattman Headers, Stock Cat, Cattman Catback

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PmiPQ-Iwy1Y

Mods:Short Ram Intake, Warpspeed Y-pipe, Magnaflow Hi-Flo Cat, Greddy SP2 Catback

http://media.putfile.com/video21a
http://media.putfile.com/greddysp265

CE Y-pipe, High flow cat, SP2 cat-back
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4xwJ71Gi8U

Custom Cool-Air Intake, Warpspeed Y, Magnaflow Hi/Flow Cat, custom B-pipe w/ resonator, and Magnaflow Street Series.

Sound from inside the car (windows down):
http://media.putfile.com/Exhaust-Sound-from-Inside-New
Sound from outside the car (camera on the ground):
http://media.putfile.com/Exhaust-Sound-from-Outside-New
Sound going from 1st to 4th gear (on street):
http://media.putfile.com/Exhaust-Sou...th-gears---New
Dynapack Dyno - 3rd Run (WHP/WTQ):
http://media.putfile.com/Dyno-3rd-Run

Old Set-up: Custom Cool-Air Intake, Warpspeed Y, Magnaflow Hi/Flow Cat, custom B-pipe w/ resonator, and Flowmaster 40 Series.

Sound from inside the car (windows down):
http://media.putfile.com/Exhaust-Sound-from-Inside
Sound from outside the car (camera on the ground):
http://media.putfile.com/Exhaust-Sound-from-Outside
Sound going from 1st to 5th gear (on freeway):
http://media.putfile.com/Exhaust-Sound-1-5th-gears

VQ30, Warpspeed Y pipe, HKS Sport Exhaust, and other stuff

http://www.youtube.com/?v=ftnMe2T5kWk

VQ30, CE y-pipe, CE hi-flo cat, magnaflow can, stock b-pipe

http://vqpower.com/tmp/magnaflow.avi
http://vqpower.com/tmp/magnaflowcruise.avi
http://vqpower.com/tmp/magnaflowrun.avi

VQ30, Cattman Headers, JWT Cams, Variable Intake, test pipe, apex ws resonator, dynomax muffler, underdrive pulley, hybrid intake

Links:
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...=getit&lid=124
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...=getit&lid=125

VQ30, Budget Y, stock cat, Budget B and Dynomax SuperTurbo muffler

Link: http://www.supload.com/vid/Budget+B+.../35894226/avi/
Apexi Catback with stock Y and cat


Budget Y, B, OEM Bosal Muffler, It doesn't sound as hollow as it does here, and the rattle is my exhaust, so ignore that


VQ30, exhaust stuff

Links:
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...=getit&lid=137
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...=getit&lid=138

VQ30, Six Sigma axelback

Link: http://www.putfile.com/nissan6

Short Ram-Unresonated Intake, Greddy SP2, Stock headers/y-pipe/cat:

1.http://media.putfile.com/Outside-Rev-Before
2.http://media.putfile.com/In-Car-Stroll-Before
3.http://media.putfile.com/In-Car-Pull-Before

Short Ram-Unresonated Intake, Greddy SP2, SS AutoChrome Headers/y-pipe, stock cat

1.http://media.putfile.com/Outside-Rev-After
2.http://media.putfile.com/In-Car-Stroll-After
3.http://media.putfile.com/In-Car-Pull-After

VQ30, Warpspeed Y-pipe, Pacesetter cat-back

Link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dKEut-2bP6A

VQ30, Custom 2.5 pipe, Weapon-R intake, Hi Performance Straight pipe

Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xVGsuS9sbhc

VQ30, Short Ram Intake, Warpspeed Y-pipe, Magnaflow Hi-Flo Cat, Greddy SP2 Catback

Links:
http://media.putfile.com/video21a
http://media.putfile.com/greddysp265

I'm trying to find clips that give a clear representation of how the exhaust set-up sounds, 1/4 mile or high speed fly-by clips may or may not be good for that purpose, but just post em anyways and we'll let everyone else decide if they help or not.

And please do not post street racing vids....



For hosting, try these sites:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....82#post4344182

96 Auto GXE with Frankencar hybrid intake, Cattman Y pipe, stock cat, Magnaflow resonator, Budget B-Pipe and Dynomax Superturbo 17733 2½" muffler.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aoMAEt8CPMA

Warpspeed 2.5 Y Pipe, Stock Cat and B-Pipe, 2.5in Flowmaster DeltaFlow 40 Series with Pilot Motorsports Resonated 3.5in Tip
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l27hLXOSiPg

VQ30, Stone Racing Y-Pipe, Stock Cat, Greddy SP2
http://media.putfile.com/Greddy-SP2-...Maxima-4th-gen

Warpspeed Y-Pipe and 5th Gen custom fit muffler. I also have a Cone filter with MAF Addapter.
http://www.infowire.org/iwmax.avi (~33MB)

WarpSpeed Y GReedy sp1 cat-back
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ptu6M057-yc

Greddy sp1 + warpspeed y
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVlLM7_O2Nk

Budget Y-pipe, 2.5" custom from cat-back w/ resonator, Dynomax Thrust Turbo Muffler.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3vZrv3sDGO8

Budget Y.. Stock B and rear section.
http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y91...t=BudgetY2.flv

Budget Y and Cattman rear section.
http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y91...andBudgetY.flv

LSS Y-pipe, Highflow cat, Resonated B-pipe and Stock Muffler, K&N Filter.
A few revs sitting in my parking space in the car.
Vid 1
A few at the muffler.
Vid 2
0-55mhp in car.
Vid 3

Warpspeed y-pipe, stock cat, cattman cat-back.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RbqRBoDMEKY

V2 supercharger, greddy bov, Custom CAI, stock headers, 3" warpspeed y pipe, cat, b pipe and muffler
http://media.putfile.com/MVI-2514

injen cold air intake, cattman y pipe, racing pipe and a greddy sp2
http://s132.photobucket.com/albums/q...t=MOV00277.flv

Bomz Intake, WS Y-Pipe, and Megan Catback.
Rev to about 2800 RPM's
http://s159.photobucket.com/albums/t...2007_15491.flv
Idle out side of the car.
http://s159.photobucket.com/albums/t...2007_15121.flv

2.5" Magnaflow catback. Forgive the lack of visual... it was pitch dark
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...06073364&hl=en

VQ30 CE ypipe, CE hi-flo cat, Magnaflow Muffler 14827, no bpipe
Link: http://vqpower.com/tmp/magnaflow.avi
Link: http://vqpower.com/tmp/magnaflowcruise.avi
Link: http://vqpower.com/tmp/magnaflowrun.avi
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.php?name=Comparison

Budget Y pipe and QTP electric cutout to a test pipe.
FYI: Also BOOSTED
Click here to see Video

97 short ram intake/y-pipe/apexi N1 catback

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qR-CDkPRayA

warpspeed y-pipe, stock cat, cattman catback

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YlxCQATyrv0

Budget Y
Stock cat
Magnaflow resonator
Stock Bpipe
Flowmaster 90 series resonator

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oLWwFe9ghZw

Cattman y-pipe
Apexi WS Catback (WS1 not WS2)
Stock cat.

Outside vid

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5vTsCYsMhVY

Inside vid

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0AMBeaT9Y4

95 GLE with Warpspeed Aluminized Y-Pipe:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a_Cpmq7aAMM

Same car after installng a Dynomax Super Turbo 17748 muffler:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WkmgtDkhKFE

It doesn't sound nearly as raspy in real life. It could just be that the microphone on the digital camera is sensitive to that specific frequency range.

Then again, it's kinda hard for me to rev the engine and stand behind my car at the same time, so I could be wrong.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RXo204c8UDw

Glasspack on my '98. Can't go wrong with the price - about $20.

Everything else is stock except the intake (K&N).

cam attatched to bumper
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=grPDI...elated&search=

outside view in diff car
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Sxc93Qy5Lg

outside view in diff car(2)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0UZf2EDsH2s

custom 2.5 exhaust from the cat back. done at my local muffler shop. i think it sounds better than most exhuast for the max. no muffler just a small resonator. hp gain of 32 with intake over stock nissan numbers but there just an average so i dont know the real gain

http://s212.photobucket.com/albums/c...t=S6300348.flv

3inch Warpspeed Y-pipe with no Exhaust whatsoever....

Recorded w/ Motorola Raza (crap phone)

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=534416

will add sound clips with the following:

Straight exhaust (2.5in) with stock muffler

and

Complete straight exhaust (2.5inches)
DynoMax Super Turbo Muffler (#17748)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZlFkPSD2FYs

driving sound- 1st 6 seconds.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=uh5Sm_APjWA

VQ30DE
Stock intake w/ Frankencar midpipe
OBX Headers w/ custom y-pipe
OE Cat
2.5" custom piping
OE resonator
dynomax superturbo muffler

vq30de smog test 30mph @ 3000> rpm

stillen pop charger, cattman axleback, SS ypipe, stock b-pipe

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-k1JzO5LGw

rev from hood.
same mods as above.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDIu_r90E1I

VQ30, popcharger & short ram, WS ypipe (heat wrapped), randomtech cat, apexi WS resonated catback - on dyno
http://home.insightbb.com/~random-bs/Marks-Maxima.avi

VQ30, HAI, and Megan Racing catback. Sounds a little bit better than other clips, but still shot with a terrible digital camera, I'll try and have a better quality video up soon.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y4suR4vPP4M

EDIT: Just installed a Warpspeed Y-Pipe. Still shot with a crappy digi camera. HAI, Megan Racing catback, and Warpspeed Y-Pipe.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPx8WQDoAik

Muffler Fujitsu :
http://www.geocities.com/q8source/fujitsu.zip

Cattman cat-back, stock cat, Cattman headers.
http://youtube.com/watch?v=HlUsDVPHf_w

budget y, ws cat, greddy sp2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0yljpHmPvbE

WOOLF (Brian Catts says they're very similar to his) equal-length 6-2-1 short headers and Y-pipe

Twin COBY (NZ Tuners) Resonators (cats not necessary in NZ)

RPS Cat-Back

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ArV72SaBXzo

There's an exhaust hangar that's loose near my resonators which is the rattle you hear just after start-up.

Blitz Jasma from a 300ZX 2.5" crush bent cat-back


that's the sound of a grinder about 3-4 bays down from where I was so you know the exhaust note isn't that loud even without the resonator.

Click here to see Video

97 Maxima with VQ30DE

warpspeed ypipe
warpspeed b pipe
magnaflow muffler

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBrYkwL5EiA

VQ30, OBX Headers, Custom 2.5" Ypipe, Test Pipes, Custom 2.5" Catback, 18" Resonator, Dynomax Super Turbo Muffler.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L2alpkCdOLw&feature=user

VQ3.5, JWT stage 1 cams, intake, hotshot headers, cattman catback, forget what kinda y pipe.

VQ30 XSpower headers (suck) stock cat, custom 2.5" catback with no resonator and xlerator muffler(same design as dynomax ultra flo) pretty buzzy. Will be swapping headers to cattman in the next couple weeks then repost.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLZdsnq2HHY

VQ30 WS y pipe, stock cat, stock B pipe, Greddy SP style muffler from ebay, frankencar intake... was our old 97se

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LlwSJXSTqds

Warpspeed Y, Pacesetter Monza in cabin:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYNiAsTSjNc

Ignore the dialog .

VQ30, PR CAI, CE Y-pipe, testpipe, Greddy SP2

http://youtube.com/watch?v=W9TxrxSSzWY

VQ30, Hotshot headers, testpipe, resonator, no muffler

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bV805cv_oyk

VQ30, hotshot headers, testpipe, resonator, dynomax ultraflo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oKhR99Adx18

VQ30, Hotshot headers, testpipe, resonator, JDM evo 3 Fujitsubo muffler
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CY4vJ9Jjzc4

VQ30, Hotshot Headers, Testpipe, Resonator, Joosten Performance N1 Muffler (catback really)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zNLztlUqY8o

4 banger sentra
http://s45.photobucket.com/albums/f9...nt=v_00237.flv

K&N Stillen Short ram intake, Budget y-pipe, 2.5" B non resinator Pressure bent(I know, I know) B pipe with Magnaflow 18" muffler with 4" magnaflow Tip. Stock headers and stock Cat.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9osuwSEDLos

98 se 5 spd, Place Racing CAI, Stillen Y-pipe, Resonated test pipe, Greddy SP1 cat-back
http://video.cardomain.com/clip.aspx...665FDD5981AD99

VQ30DEK
Short ram intake
Cattman Headers/Y-pipe
Stock cat
Megan Racing cat back.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pEgZejVPZAE

Warpspeed y-pipe
2.5in Walker Cat
2.5in custom bent exhaust w/ 14in resonator
Dynomax Superturbo muffler #17748

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OrJYziNTMrs

warpspeed y pipe
2.5in custom piping
no cat. no res.
Xlerator muffler (crappy muffler..needs to be changed!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JpaojHyWeJY

ok...got the muffler changed..to a bosal performance muffler..got it from a friend..just need a resignator n then i should be set...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iV2SN...e=channel_page

Stillen Hi-Flow Short Ram Intake
Cattman Y
Stock Cat
Budget B (single resonator)
HKS Rear Section

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Bht_...eature=channel

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

HAI, NWP Intake Spacer Kit, Warpspeed Y-Pipe, Stock Cat, Stock Catback.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gc9U9dr7OaM&fmt=22

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

HAI, NWP Intake Spacer Kit, Warpspeed Y-Pipe, Stock Cat, Stillen Rear Section.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U7hk1w_fT4k&fmt=22
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rP5v-X1CAfM&fmt=22

maxima.713

iTrader: (7)

stock headers and y-pipe without cat and no muffler just a 2 1/2inch pipe with a tip.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPQ93WLOU6Y

part1 fly by
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9RH6U_DGfvc

part2 reving it
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4R8CYDl8u34

fly by at 130mph
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PIhGEhQCjms

blac99max

stock headers and ypipe. custom 2.5 exhaust to vibrant muffler
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IIu2_VGcU_Y

flyineagle96

nice thread
heres mine

MrDicks95SE

iTrader: (23)

stock intake box
frankencar midpipe
OBX 3-2-1 modified long runner headers
custom 2.5" ypipe
2.5" testpipe
custom 2.5" catback
Magnaflow 14" resonator
unknown muffler (old magnaflow?)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xIH-uQeyIJQ

maxed_out_99

short ram intake, shorty headers, y-pipe, 2.5" cat back with a magnaflow muffler

infinimax96

Short Ram Intake, Stock headers, Stock y-pipe, Stock cat, Stainless steel 2.5" catback with OBX-R Seamless Series H5 4.5" tip.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1HI7p...O4tVkuxOweERO1

Shift_Max

iTrader: (18)

3" piping with Magnaflow resonator and HKS Carbon-Ti Muffler. Filmed with Go-Pro Hero 2 at 720p 30fps. Didn't take into account the exhaust gasses so excuse the blurry parts of the video.

pflicht

iTrader: (2)

a lot of these clips no longer have good links unfortunately... we need more clips

trev0006

This setup sounds very nice, just the right amount of popping when decelerating.



[quote=Shift_Max;8353343]3" piping with Magnaflow resonator and HKS Carbon-Ti Muffler. Filmed with Go-Pro Hero 2 at 720p 30fps. Didn't take into account the exhaust gasses so excuse the blurry parts of the video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZNYSt...layer_embeddedtirescars

Nissanserguy

iTrader: (14)

Maybe someone can add all the gaskets and part numbers for all the exhaust components. I need that. lol

WendysMaxima

Stock headers, open aftermarket y pipe

CichlidKid

iTrader: (1)

Figured I'd post mine up since the majority of these links do not work anymore