nfafan

Hello all,
Searched the posts for something similar, came up empty.

Anyone have any ideas why the SLIP, TCS OFF, and the Service Engine Soon lights would suddenly come on after start-up?

This is what happened...

Ran the car this morning, fine. Started up later - - and was greeted with the lights.

Turned off car for a few mins, SLIP and TCS OFF are now gone, but SES light remains.

Also, car has 50,500 miles on it, no apparent problems leading up to this.

Mine is a Cali-spec 99 SE-L - NO VISIBLE screw inside ECU box so as to check for the MIL code on my own. At the mercy of the dealer.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

deeloc

there is a screw on the ecu. you have a plastic covering you need to get through if its the first time anybody is attempting to pull codes from the ecu. just push the screwdriver through the plastic cover and the screw is in there for sure

nfafan

Not on my 99 Cali-spec. BTDT. Been off/on this site for 3 years now, still can't figure out why some folks w/ Cali-spec 99's (w/ Y2K ECU?) can access a "screw" inside the ECU box.

I've checked mine - little access port hole like basic ECU - but nothing to screw or turn that is visible thru the hole.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

The screw in the 99 Cali Spec ECU's are very hard to see. It's recessed a bit further into the box. Use a small screwdriver and gently poke around in there and you'll feel it. Then follow the procedure to get the codes out.

nfafan

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=374481

My 99 Cali-spec has the Y2K ECU box, as do many other late 99s. I'm SOL for reading the Service Engine Soon code without a scan tool or the local Nissan dealer. No handy AutoZones where I live, Advance and NAPA have nothing.

So again, any ideas as to what may have caused the sudden appearance of the SLIP, TCS OFF, Service Engine Light when nothing else has apparently gone wrong?

Thanks!

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

On the 2k Maximas, those lights appearing suddenly typically indicate bad coil packs.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

You dont have a 5th gen ECU, they have a completely different harness.

C3nthusiast

iTrader: (3)

My car did the same thing a couple of times. It was a bad coil pack.

nfafan

behavior during a later start up attempt; the TCS OFF and SLIP lights were out, Service Engine light on, and car rough and stumbly. I just turned it off and will get it into the dealer ASAP.

Been reading a ton of posts, and my 99 is likely due its' turn in the barrel with the flaky coil packs.

I just can't understand how failing/failed coil packs would cause the TCS OFF and SLIP lights to come on in the first place - these are tranny and brake related, not ign system. Freakin' Nissan.

C3nthusiast

iTrader: (3)

The TCS is engine related. The fuel mix is richened when there is a SLIP. The brakes "are not" being applied to gain traction.

nfafan

Huh? Lemme 'splain how I understand it.

One would think TCS is a function of wheel SLIP/spin detection, causing TCS to apply or not apply ABS in an attempt to gain traction. And if throttle is needed or not, apply throttle kinda like cruise control.

Whereas coil packs are basic ignition. I mean, why fire the TCS OFF and SLIP lights to tell you somethings wrong with yer plugs or wires?

Zack342

iTrader: (89)

Its your Mass air flow sensor

C3nthusiast

iTrader: (3)

Next time it is wet outside. Come to a stop, turn the wheel all the way right like you are turning. Then punch it WOT. Does that feel like ABS to you or the engine bogging down? It's the engine bogging down not the ABS working.

Do you get a rumble at idle sometimes? If so it's your coil packs not the MAF.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

That thread only pertains to 5th gens. You have a 4th gen with a Cali-Spec ECU, same as mine. Trust me, there is a screw in there.

Your SOL for not listening to what we are telling you. All 4th gens have the ability to access the ECU and display error codes, even your "late model" Cali-Spec, which happens to be the same car I own. Now find the screw, it's recessed back in the box, you'll have to feel it out, then pull the codes and you'll know what went wrong with your car.

tweeter007

I had the same thing happening to me,it would happen repeatedly after ECU was reset.ECU code turned out a misfire caused by a bad coil. I changed all six coils, has not happened again since.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Read hte FAQ's it has pics of where screw is.

nfafan

OK, so we agree that our ECU boxes are not like that shown here:

http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecu.html

Just an "empty hole" with no visible screw head.

With no visible scew head, how can you "trust" what size scewdriver to shove in there, how far to shove in, and what you might possibly be turning it against? If I had a pre-Y2K ECU with visible scew, I'd be tweaking away, but at mucho-bux per ECU box, I'm inclined to not attempt to just poke around in there.

Regardless, I appreciate everyones input to this thread. Sounds like one or more of the coil packs have bit the dust.

Thanks for the ideas all!

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...8&postcount=25

kc10fish

iTrader: (1)

before the stealership try buying an OBDII code reader. nissan is going to charge you 100 bucks just to look at it. use that $ and get the reader then you can test your own crap !

Zack342

iTrader: (89)

go to autozone they will read the code for free. I'm positive its the Maf

nfafan

Dropped the car at the local Ni$$an dealer. $82.00 later they found a P1320 code stored, and nothing else.

Checked ABS system, wiring harness, cleared code, road tested, no reocuurance, no more TCS OFF, SLIP, Svc Engine lights.

Drove a few miles around town, no more lights. But.. did seem to detect a bit of stumble very breifly while reversing out of a parking spot.

Any bets on how many hours it will be before the SES light comes back on?

At least it would have been nice to throw a secondary code indicating which cylinder coil pack was going...

Safe to assume the consensus is to change them all (and all plugs) and be done with it for a few more miles?

TIA,
Steve

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

Coil packs. You could have listened to us the first time and put that $82 towards the coils. You can get coils at a discount from www.midwaypartsteam.com - ask for Dan Tech. He'll get you good prices and great service. I believe the Mitsubishi's are the preferred coils in terms of longevity. Cheers.

nfafan

True, but... The hoped for/expected result of a dealer Consult visit was hoped to have been something more informative than just a P1320 alone, like maybe; the secondary code (P0300-P0306) pinpointing which of the 6 cyls were the problem.

Regardless, Nissan's own info says to replace ALL 6 packs - when maybe only one is failing. A freakin expensive proposition even at discounted parts prices.

I'm surprised that the dealer didn't just tell me that and sell me on the service.
Anyway, yes, now I need to get all 6 replaced unless it goes nuts again and another visit will show just which cylinder coil pack is the true culprit.

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

No problems Just trying to save you some money Anyway - you won't regret doing the coil pack swap - your car will feel new!

syracusemax

I posted this in another thread. I had the same symptoms, was told i needed to replace my engine harness because of an intermittant open circuit for $2300! I figured it was the coil packs because it's always the coil packs. Hope your luck isn't as bad. Btw, anyone know a less expensive alternative to replacing the engine harness.-

nfafan

Just a suggestion on the harness, maybe you could get lucky with a Max that was rear-ended and "totaled", leaving an otherwise good engine harness available. At $2300, it better be strands of Unobtanium element.

Anyway, so your symptoms were similar?

Today the prob re-occurred "live" and in real-time, after hours of driving yesterday without issue after picking up the car from the dealer:

Was driving along at highway speeds, then suddenly, SLIP, TCS OFF, SES lights came on - but no drivability issues.
As speed dropped due to traffic, sure enough; the shuddering of an engine miss. (Was beginning to think a coil could be having heat-related issues.)
This went on for a bit, but smoothed out at speed.

Later, after a stop light, no more shudder. After restart from parking at an office, the SLIP and TCS OFF were now gone, just the SES light was on.
And no more "shuddering" miss.
Hours of stop/go short trips later, no issues except for the constant SES light.

This sound like your problem? Dealer told me that they checked (assume visual and wiggling of wires) the wiring, found nothing wrong.

Will have to look myself, and look into ordering coil packs.

Thanks for the info!
Steve

nfafan

Prob seems to occur with heat. Was fine, then after several miles the SLIP, TCS OFF came on, along with a stumble. After a bit, the 2 lights went out and stumble went away.

Picked up OBD2 scanner from Wally World; P1320 (that was originally seen) followed by P0302, (Cyl 2 misfire detected).

Pulled Cyl 2 coil and wrapped in hi-temp electric tape, will clear ECU codes and take it for another ride to see if heat induces SLIP, TCS OFF lites and stumble.
If so, will swap coil pack with adjacent cyl, clear codes, see if prob follows coil. If so, replacing coil, but if stays with same cyl - back to drawing board.

nfafan

Final update...
Not trying to bore everyone, just figured I'd post as much symptoms as possibel for the next person that runs into this..

The tape-wrap trick made no differance, if any, occured even faster.

Scan code showed it returned to same P1320 with a P0302.

Cleared code, swapped Cyl 2 coil with Cyl 4 coil - problem followed the coil to Cyl 4; next drive gave me a P1320 with a P0304.

Called Garrand's Nissan ((518) 561-1210 - no association, just best price I found from calling around) and ordered a new coil for the left side of engine; $56.52 with free shipping.

Thanks all for the input to thios long-ased thread!