Galo

So, guys....I need some help here and, given that the Gen 4 and Gen 5 Maxes have essentially the same front suspension, I have posted this in both the Gen5 forum -where I usually hang out- and here in the Gen 4 forum.

Over the last 3k miles (for me, six months) I've gradually developed what to most people (except for the **** moi) would be considerered an almost imperceptible shimmy at the 57-65 MPH range.

Yes, I know, it's tire balance, say you. I said the same thing except that my wheel & tires have roadforced (twice) and have tested perfectly -three are under 8 lbs of road force, the two with the lowest road force ( 4and 6 lbs) are in the front of the car and balancing has been done to the nearest tenth of an ounce instead of to the more normal quarter of an ounce....bottom line, it's definitely NOT a wheel & tire issue.

The rotors are perfect, I took a dial caliper to them and run-out on one rotor was .0014" and the other .0019" -both as near as perfect as can be, so the shimmy is definitely NOT a brake warpage issue.

Knowing that then Gen6 Maxes have notoriously suffered from shimmy, I checked the data bases and there is indeed a TSB for the Gen6's (TSB #04085) that calls for exactly what I did, meaning, road forcing the wheels using a Hunter 9700, bla bla bla. However, should the road force process fail to correct the shi,,y, that TSB also directs the techs to tighten the steering rack adjustment bolt and gives the location/procedure to do that, which is turning a large, 24mm bolt located on the left side of the steering rack assembly clockwise a quarter turn.

Well, definitely the steering rack on our cars is different, because there is no large, 24mm bolt on our steering racks anywhere close to the position it should be as suggested by the Gen6 TSB. So, does anyone know where that adjustment bolt is located on our steering racks? Anyone who has a shop manual can find this out....can anyone help??

Thanks

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ack+adjustment

The TSB is here:
http://www.davidgeesaman.com/maxima/00-037B_1.PDF
http://www.davidgeesaman.com/maxima/00-037B_2.PDF

The illustration in the TSB shows the adjustment nut rotated to face the mechanic. It's actually 180° from that - the adjustment nut faces the driver, against the frame of the car. Without detaching the rack from the steering column, I think you need to special tool to fit in that tiny space. It's really a poor setup. I also had them replace the rack bushings, but that was $$ since he had to drop the y-pipe (never removed before) to get to the pass side bushing. They didn't need replacing in the end.

I will say though that this only reduced my problem. I'm currently replacing the LCA bushings with the ES type, replacing balljoints, and inner tie rod ends. If UPS had delivered my tie rod ends, I'd have a final answer on Monday, but it's not to be. I suggest attacking the inner/outer tie rod ends, balljoints, and bushings first.

Dave

Galo

Dave...this is exactly what I was looking for....THANKS

This TSB also proves to me that it in indeed steering rack friction that it out of spec that's causing my problem because my car -again, perfectly aligned and all that- tends to 'center' the steering very quickly after a turn, something which the TSB states could be impacted if the friction is set too high....now I know why that feels different as well.

Well, I dont have any of the special tools, so.....I will ask my dealer if they have the tools and have them quote me the job based on the service manual's labor hours and I'll go from there. If it's ridiculous, then I'll see about getting the tools myself.

From what you have observed from your by now rather intimate relationship with the steering rack, with the right tools, would you rate this as easy or difficult from an access perspective? I'm a pretty competent wrench, so....other than my bad back, I dont think this would be a problem, but.....your opinion is needed

Thanks again, regards

PAREDLINE

Before you go and do all that make sure you check the easy and obvious stuff first. Are the tires in good condition? Has the tread separated from the belts? Have you checked the tie rod ends?

I had a guy who got 4 new tires, balanced, an alignment, new brakes and rotors and he still had a shimmy.

Turned out to be the outer tie rod ends.

Another cause for shimmy in our cars could be a bad ball joint.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

If you can locate the SSTs, you're not in for much work. But without the SSTs, you need to move the rack away from the frame and that's a pain. Dealers (without the tools) quoted 1-2 hours.

If you find a source for the tools, please let me know. When the guy did mine he didn't read carefully and reset it to the old spec, not the one in the TSB. Just don't buy the pull scale - it's just a f**king fishing scale. Get a fishing scale for 1/3 the $$.

Dave

Galo

Thanks again, Dave.

Now, would'nt the dealer know where to get the tools?? Why would the TSB point them to a set of tools made out of Unobtanium?

To the other post above., my car just turned 30k (yes, not a typo, 30k) miles....everything else is completely tight, as it should be at that mileage.

Between the brake kit and the very light SSR wheels, I've reduced unsprung weight by almost 18 lbs per wheel in the front which is something that will significantly contribute to enhanced longevity of these components -tie rods, ball joints, etc- so.....it will be a looong time before I need to worry about these other parts -I hope

Here are some pics of my ride, the brake kit, etc:

http://www.cardomain.com/id/elgalo