Bobo

Also, what was his opinion on replacing the rear O2 sensor? That should likely be done.

Armelius

Don't worry about an 02 sensor. Get the rest of the engine fixed. O2 is way down the line. Worry about the smoke and replace as much as you can with the engine. You would notice the water pump inop if you were dripping coolant when you are parked.

Sounbwoy

iTrader: (2)

Why should he NOT replace it? I seem to remember him thinking a VERY LARGE dollar amount may have to be spent. Since the car's at the shop AND he's getting stuff done, why not FIX it and make the car RIGHT? I'm not understanding....

mrgreek

iTrader: (1)

over 50? lets not forget what florida is known for...dont worry, i also am looking to retire in that state if i happen to leave ontario

mrgreek

iTrader: (1)

from wat i know about to maf sensor, it either works perfectly or not...cause its a very sensitive piece... i had to replace mine cause im a noob and i broke it accidently...also...if your maf sensor is ****ed does ur rmp max out at 2400-2500...cause thats a sure sign it is...however ...if it is only semi-screwed...and u still have to replace it...this part is ridicoulously priced ranging from 60 wreckyard- 400 dealer...id do it urself to save the 30 mins labour the mechanic may charge you...i dont know how much they charge in the states but ud be saving 30 where im from

(even though im canadian all my numbers were converted to USD for convenience)

multiplexor

another small update...

car is working 100% at the moment... I'm haveing absolutely no problem at all!

WTF?!? man this problem is WEIRD!!

either way, i'm going to start buying some new coil packs to slowly start replaceing the ones giving weird readings...

I'm also going to mentally prepare myself for the cost of changing a water pump... I'm losing coolant, and the mechanic said it's going on the fritz...

Also, this might be placebo... but i took off my intake / maf sensor completely... started the car and floored it a couple times... upon quicky tap of the accelerator, the car would buck and have a hard time catching air... no problemo sounds normal, since no maf sensor is currently on the car.... So I clean the maf sensor with a bit of water on a qtip.. i scrape off a good amount of oil/dirt... probably from the amsoil airfilter...
put it back together and try again, I swear my car feels more responsive. I floor it quickly and it seems to keep up, instead of a milli second of ""what you want me to do?" feeling... hehe

anywho... that's that

also bought myself some yoko ES 100's yesterday...

Curious, What do you guys recommend as a clutch? stock oem? Or simple vanilla ACT clutch?

Bobo

So what did you actually have done, multiplexor? I think you should replace that water pump sooner rather than later. And don't leave the clutch too long. I got stuck on the side of the road 15 years ago on a long weekend trying to go just a couple thousand miles more on a clutch than I should have - its not worth it and doesn't do wonders for the flywheel.

I didn't realize you needed new tires as well. It appears that your car has been neglected prior to you ever buying it and now you have to play catch up on repairs.

multiplexor

oh, i had bought new tires before but these were running low for this year. It was the year of tires changes in my case... I bought new winter tires along with new summers.

this is what the mechanic did... step by step:

once test drive was done and he saw it bucking stalling power lossing...
he brought into the garage, plugged consult-II to it. pulled the usual evap canister / rear 02 codes.

He unplugged a vaccum hose, which did nothing to the engine...

then like last time, he pulls my air filter out and says the same thing as the other guy... "it may not be letting enough air in, and it might be tooo oiled." with the air filter off, he revs the engine a couple times, monitors my maf. it's reading 75% the whole time, and now sudennly goes back upto 100%

He puts the air filter back in, and that's it...

oh wait, he taps the maf sensor with a screw driver, lightly.... then that's it...

I must say... WEIRD!!!

over all, keeping it overnight, looking at it for maybe 2 hours.... I got charged 106$ total... at the dealership... seems so low... heh

At this point, considering your advice, i think i'll get a new clutch first, before those coil packs :-)

Just need to find out if i should bother getting something just a "bit" better, or stick with oem...

As for radiator flush, I must admit as to not knowing the flush periods until you pointed it out here. With that said, I'll be doing this extremely soon. Thanks for that

so yeah, now my car is feeling 100%... hell even my clutch is actually gripping a bit more.. might be the warmer weather at the same time...

Bobo

Don't bother flushing the radiator unless you're going to replace the water pump at the same time or you're just going to have to add more antifreeze later.

mrgreek

iTrader: (1)

f@ck...it took me a while to read everything...i read all 3 pages to get the flow lol...

also, let me start by saying, how do u monitor a maf?

anyways...from what i know i think i can explain the maf sensor problem ur having...

the two wires that detect watever on the inside go up into that box that is fused on top of it...inside that box there are 3 metal pieces attached to the connecting thing/switch/majiger/ ( i cant believe i cant find the right word)...since its reading 75% or watever... and then when he taps or watever for 100%...i can only assume 1/3 (it might be 1/4) of those metal things are broken...of course...u can never (underline that) see these metal things because you can't look into that fused box on the maf...unless u break it...which i did...

"good times"
p.s.-> just some comic relief
murdoch...im going back home this weekend to pick up my maxima...i havent had it for 2 weeks so i've basically just been reading the forums here without posting much...
of course when i see it, my passion will rise and even though nothing is wrong with it (except absolute pressure sensor) im sure ill find something to post...

multiplexor...the best thing that can happen to you is...find an .orger in ca (which is a lot) and ask him to help installation in exchange of "good times" hahaha

multiplexor

hehehe Good times

That's what i'm wondering... maybe i'm hitting a bump or something and it disconnects something in the maf sensor box... I dunno...

I'm not sure how that would explain the white smoke which pops up at the same time though.... Maybe because of the sensor malfunction it causes the engine to poorly burn fuel and just cause white smoke.....

Any thoughts on this part?

rmurdoch: Cool. I'm going to look into getting a new clutch and getting the water pump done around the same time. Thanks for the note. :-)

I might just have the weirdest maxima ever... hehe

mrgeek: a maxima... in canada... man it's rare! hehe we're slowly starting to become more popular though.... but it's till hard to find another modded max, althought bad.... it's nice to be unique

multiplexor

OH! to answer your question, the guy plugged the CONSULT-II into my car and was reading my maf sensor. I'm going to check my haynes on how to do this myself, if possible.

Bobo

Not to sound like a broken record but I think your car has been neglected since day 1. Unfortunately, multiplexor, you may have to beg, borrow or steal the money and bite the bullet and get that car fixed before you are stuck on the sideway in the middle of nowhere looking for a tow truck. I know its going to be costly but you probably need at a minimum: new coil packs, new water pump, radiator flush, new clutch, possibly new MAF. It may not be an either/or situation. They all may need replacement now.

Also what kind of plugs did you put in: NGK coppers (if so they may need replacement), NGK platinums (should be ok), something other (get rid of them and put in NGK coppers ASAP (because they're cheaper than platinums and would be easier on your budget at this time).

mrgreek

iTrader: (1)

as of the white smoke...when i broke my maf sensor i had white smoke...but that was because i also cleaned the throttle body...which im guessing is why i had the white smoke...

did u clean the trottle body and maybe spray a lot of liquid and then didnt push the gas a little to completely clean it out? i dont know...ive been here a month and dont know ****...juts shooting ideas

Bobo

Don't discredit yourself, mr geek, you're becoming a mechanical wizard, lol!

What ever happened to that other wizard Armelius...still safely locked up?

multiplexor

sweet stuff,

I checked with the gf's dad who works at NAPA... he'll be getting me 6 new coil packs for 60.55 each... (3 for 60.55, 3 others for 65.83)

beats the dealership price of 137 and the car-parts price of nearly 200$ each...

So that'll be outta the way...

I'll pickup a coolant temp sensor for 22$ at the same time...

I'm considering maybe replacing the maf sensor "just in case" considering he can pick a new one up for 127.79$... I thought these things were 400$?!?!?

Like mentionned, a water pump as well... 65$... i just have no idea how much it is to install one of these things

clutch, what the hell? with these ultra gripping tires, and possibly the warmer weather, the clutch is NOT slipping at all the the moment. When i drop it in gear perfectly, I tried a couple WOT's to test, and no slipping... last driver probably had installed a crappy clutch or sumthin? Wish i knew more about these...

Out of all these items, the water pump will be installed by a professional...

Finally, I can't remember exactly what brand i had installed in regards to the spark plugs. BUT they were good quality ones. I do remember that much hehe
BUT just in case, I'll possibly get some NGK's. I'm not sure the regular price, but i can get them for 11.32 each. (though it's written "pack of 4" on this sheet of paper here)....

oh and since the dealeship visit, still not ONE single problem with the car... either the car HATES dealerships like we hate doctors, or..... hehehe

multiplexor

K I just did a search, and for the spark plugs, I remember now, having gone to the nissan dealership to pick them up.. Which means I believe they are NGK's.

I also believe those last for like 60-70k right?

I got them back in 2k1, when the car had 83k on it... not 88 as i thought originally.

Bobo

So your plugs are likely platinum and only have about 42K on them. Just take them out and have a look at them. I read somewhere not to clean them. A friend cleaned mine a few weeks ago on a wheel and we just put them back in after 58K and they're good to go, OEM platinums in since day 1 10.5 years ago and the car idles perfectly.

Don't forget to do the pH test on the radiator. Any rad shop will do this for you for nothing.

Good luck!

multiplexor

man, incredible the price markup.... my gf's dad just re-quoted my in mitsubishi coil packs... 50$ a piece... that's in CDN dollars!!! brand spanking new... that's nuts!

Also, i've ordered a new water pump... another 60$ brand spanking new... i'm just worrying about installation cost... then again with the money i've saved on all the parts, who cares... hehe.

I'm just amazed atthe markup... dealarship for nearly 100$ more... car-parts store for 150$ more... crazy!!!

Bobo

Are you sure you're being quoted the correct coil packs? I take it your gf's dad knows what he is doing. Can't he turn you on to someone who can give you a hand with some of the mechanical stuff.

Don't forget to check the radiator coolant when you change the water pump. I suspect the rad should be flushed.

multiplexor

yeah I confirmed the coil packs tonight actually... He had a NAPA catalogue with pics of each part... sure enough the mitsubishi's were the exact same type..

On that same note, they also had some Hanshin's... DO NOT get these kind... they are supposedly compatible, but from the pics, they are much much shorter than the mitsu's...

But yeah, all prices are employee priced, thus the huge discount...

Like you said, once the water pump gets replaced, i'll drain/replace the radiator fluid at the same time.

I was just amazed at the prices!
hell I can pickup a brand new MAF for about 100$

multiplexor

It shouldn't be too bad, the only big job is the water pump.... this I can definetly not do myself

Problem is finding a reputable mechanic in the area... Since I have the part, I could theoretically go to the dealership... they'll simply charge me 10$ more an hour, but i'll know that they're doing a good job... i've seen mechanics work on my brakes and take forever just because they want to clock in that extra hour.... :-/

eh i'll hunt around for this one...

multiplexor

update... as usual

Replaced the coil packs with the mitsubishi's... engine is a back to a normal smooth sounding engine when reved. could be placebo, but i feel a bit more torque... possibly because the spark is harder and cleaner? I dunno... there's no noticeable difference in my power... it just feels like there's more torque...

I've also got the water pump, so i'll get that changed probably this or next week. I didn't get the chance to check the spark plugs yet though... I don't have the right tool to get down in there...

multiplexor

oh... heh i inquired for a clutch replacement through my gf's dad...

About 137$ CDN for a new clutch... problem is... what type of quality is it..... :-/

Bobo

I'm not sure about the cost of clutch components as I haven't had to replace a clutch in any car I've owned for about 15 years. Did you enquire about replacing the pressure plate and release/throw out bearing at the same type? All 3 should be replaced when the job is being done, not just the clutch. You should also have the flywheel inspected and resurfaced if necessary. Just replacing the clutch alone is a waste as you have to pull the transaxle to replace the clutch and should do the whole nine yards when you've got it out.

Also don't chintz out on the quality of the parts as you will want them to last.

multiplexor

Yeah, when possible i like to get atleast quality parts

I figured when getting a new clutch, it usually involves replacing/fixing the components you mentionned, but i'll take these down as a note....

I'm thinking my clutch may not have last extremely long, for the main reason that this is my first manual transmission verhicle... :-) It took me a while to develop a good technique for shifting... hell I used to rev to 2.5 to 3k just for first gear... lol.... we live we learn

I'm looking into getting maybe an ACT stage 1 or stage 2 clutch... The one just above oem.... I don't want anything race like, just a bit more grip...

Thanks