Intel

iTrader: (2)

Maybe this is just how my old maxima was and our van and my moms car but when its somewhat cold out the trannys all shift hard 1-2 till things warm up. I know this explains nismo3366 problem. These are all older cars with anywhere from 60k to 200k in mileage and it was just something that is accepted. For the others my thought is that it might have to do with the solenoid.

link to some common problems

Oblongshapes

iTrader: (1)

Read back in the post a bit... I explain the modulator..actually just read this.. it uses engine vacuum to determine engine load to boost the line pressure of the tranny. When you are going faster you need the bands and clutches to have more holding power to keep the planetary gearset in place (gears inside) because theres more torque on these pieces. Theres a diaphram inside of it that flexes with engine vacuum that moves a lever that moves a spool valve that goes to your accumulators (control the feel of the apply clutch). That diaphram after the years becomes brittle and start to fail (check for ATF at the hose going to the modulator for failure). Also, just not the diaprham fails, the part the inserts into the tranny to push the spool valve can get bent, it doesnt take much to make that rod have resistence, sometimes you cant even see the bend its so slight, but its there. If you or a mechanic was working by it, it could have been bumped and bent....

Learning is Fun!
any questions

ThurgoodJenkins

Yes, that's called vacuum modulation. Earlier in the thread someone said they looked it up and the Maxima uses the TPS to determine line pressure. It's either one or the other, can't have both.

thefed

Sooo, Maybe The Tps Needs Readjusted? I'll Take It To The Stealer....just Kidding. Anyone Have A Good Write Up On Tps Adjustment?

s0ber

iTrader: (7)

http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/tps.html

sMel

I have the same problem with my I30'96 , 115K. Two trusted mechanics told me to live with it.
I checked the resistor, it's OK. Not sure about TPS. The link above says I should experience rpm drops, but I don't.
Will be interesting to find an inexpencive solution, though.

jt151

I've been having this problem for a couple of months now. First, it started with just the hard shift between 1st and 2nd. Now, I've got a stutter and jerk around 1500-2000 rpms. The problems seems to be specific to 1st gear. Shifts are fine when starting in 2nd Gear. I still have not found a solution and sorely feel that it's a bad transmission . The following is a list of things I've done and checked in no particular order:
- New NGK Platinum Sparks
- New Nissan OEM Fuel Filter
- New PCV Valve
- Oil Change
- Fuel System Cleaning
- Knock Sensor Replaced
- Drop Resistor Replaced (Automatic Transmission Control Resistor)
- Fuel injectors checked OK
- Ignition Coils Checked OK
- TPS adjusted in Spec
- Throttle cable and cruise control adjusted
- IAC and TB Cleaned
- MAF and AIT Sensors in spec
- O2 Sensors checked OK
- Engine Coolant Sensor Checked OK
Is there anything that I might have missed? Anyone else got something to add to this list that may actually fix the problem? I've got a Stillen POP Charger and 167,000 miles

Oblongshapes

iTrader: (1)

well my bad, i dont have an auto, so i didnt know..... So test your TPS with a DVOM, if not get a new one. And if that doesnt do it your accumulator or its seal might be bad which would mean an overhaul.

MaxKlinger

Maybe I'm blind and don't see it on your list, but did you try getting your transmission and torquer converter flushed?

browne

i got the same prob.. i got 90,000 miles. getting fluids changed tomorrow.

jt151

I had my transmission flushed at 110,000 miles...that was only 57,000 miles ago. It didn't even seem to need it when I did it at 110,000. Surely I wouldn't need another one already. Besides, I can see where that will smooth the shifts but will that solve the stut..stut...stutter problem, too? Let me know what you all think before I take it to do a stealership diagnostics tomorrow.

vuvu

Would someone post the part number for the dropping resistor ??? Mine measured at 11 Ohms, is it good or bad? I also talked to on dealer and they have no idea about what the drop resistor is !!!!

Thanks

jt151

I'm not sure what the measurement would be but the official name for the drop resistor is called the Automatic Transmission Control Resistor. Ask them for that...it should be around $40.

Here's an update on my situation...Got a flush today (what the hell, why not). The engine stutter is now worse and no longer isolated to 1st Gear. Anytime I'm accelerating between 1500 and 2500 rpms, the car starts choking. You'd think I had hydraulics the way it bounces and jerks. By disconnecting the "drop" resistor, I was also able to determine that the jerking doesn't seem to have anything to do with the shift points. Any suggestions?...Anyone?...Anyone?

jt151

Son of a !@#$%...Finally took it to the stealership and they found a break in the wire leading from the MAF Sensor. They said the MAF would cut on and off everytime the wire got jiggled (like at shift points and bumps in the road). She's running smooth as ever now. I got charged 4hrs labor for $266.00...I'm just glad it wasn't the tranny.

ThurgoodJenkins

4 hours to repair a MAF wire?

jt151

Yeah...they said they had to track down where the break was...Stealerships, you can always count on them to rip you off. That's why I tried everything I could before having to take it in to them.