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5TH gen pressure plate a success.

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Old 07-28-2006, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by JSutter
whats the specs for the stock PP?
95 thru 99 stock PP is 240 mm dia. with a 580 kg clamping force
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Old 07-29-2006, 06:27 AM
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Originally Posted by eng92
If you are limiting yourself to just those two, then the 2Y920 would be the better choice.
Well there is no other choice for an oem 5th gen pressure plate, right?
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Old 07-29-2006, 07:05 AM
  #83  
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Did mine back in March of this year. 5,000 miles later it is still grabbing strong(well it should). Very happy that I did this mod. At the time my clutch was slipping very bad. Couldnt even tap onto the gas without it slipping. What a difference it was when I first got it. Now I am used to it and it feels great.
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Old 07-31-2006, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by kingrukus
Well there is no other choice for an oem 5th gen pressure plate, right?
eng92: Some local guy on my local maxima board called a local shop and they told him that the 250mm pressure plate is actually used in frontiers, and they do not reccomend it. What are your thoughts?
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Old 08-01-2006, 04:53 AM
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Originally Posted by kingrukus
eng92: Some local guy on my local maxima board called a local shop and they told him that the 250mm pressure plate is actually used in frontiers, and they do not reccomend it. What are your thoughts?
Nissan uses several different 250 mm diameter disc and pressure plate combinations.

The 02 thru 04+ max all use a 250mm PP. The frontier PP is a different p/n than that used in any maxima.

I have a feeling that there may be an error in the FAST system for the clutch diameter and clamp force rating for the 01 AE edition. It differs from the specs given in the FSM and there would be no reason for Nissan to up the torque transmission capability so much without any change in engine output.
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Old 08-01-2006, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by eng92
Nissan uses several different 250 mm diameter disc and pressure plate combinations.

The 02 thru 04+ max all use a 250mm PP. The frontier PP is a different p/n than that used in any maxima.

I have a feeling that there may be an error in the FAST system for the clutch diameter and clamp force rating for the 01 AE edition. It differs from the specs given in the FSM and there would be no reason for Nissan to up the torque transmission capability so much without any change in engine output.
So the 30210-2Y920 was used in only AE's, or in all 01's?
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Old 08-01-2006, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by kingrukus
So the 30210-2Y920 was used in only AE's, or in all 01's?
30210-2Y920 superceded 30210-2Y910 which was used for production from Nov 2000 to June 2001.

30210-89F00 was used from April 1999 to Nov 2000.
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Old 09-23-2006, 06:07 PM
  #88  
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im sill confused on which one of these damn part #'s are the best one's to get. all this going back and forth shat is hard to sift thru...

so, if anyone can fill this in that's be g8.

Pressure Plate:
Clutch Disc:
Throwout Brng:30502-41U20

-Matt
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Old 09-25-2006, 12:24 PM
  #89  
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I am confused too now but only on this last page LOL.

I placed my order about a week ago from http://nissan-auto-parts-dealer.com/
On the part selection page I selected all three parts for a '01 Max. I just received my order.

30502-41U20 TO Bearing
30210-89F00 Pressure Plate
C0100-6E600 Clutch Disk

The last one is especially confusing because I have not seen anyone post that Part #
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Old 09-25-2006, 12:54 PM
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The clutch disc C0100-6E600 is the new part number that directly replaces the older part number 30100-2Y904.
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Old 09-25-2006, 12:59 PM
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I just want the list of the best part numbers for the Throwout Bearing, Pressure Plate, and Clutch Disc- the BEST ones whether they be for a 4th or 5th gen or whatever- just whatever I need to order to do the best 5th gen clutch upgrade to my 4th gen.
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Old 09-25-2006, 02:06 PM
  #92  
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for you 4.5 guys, do u recommend the 5th gen or exedy/act stage 1? I doubt no one has had the swap done long enuf to see the effects on the clutch.
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Old 10-31-2010, 03:15 PM
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ok so are these part numbers still valid or has there been some changing im driving a 99 se 5speed and the RMS is leaking on to the clutch causing it to slip id like to do this mod but i cant find any recent thread about it
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Old 10-31-2010, 09:25 PM
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Not one that enjoys tearing my transmission out often I opted to spend a couple hundred extra for an Advanced Clutch Technologies stage 2 set up for $450 and have hammered off 4 sets of tires (rotated near belts) over the last 5 years and it's still rock solid. It's not a bad idea to replace the tranny bearings with some high tensiles while you have it all apart if you plan on beating it up. Seals are a bare minimum....
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Old 04-06-2011, 05:37 PM
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Well if anyone is still coming back to this thread for info i am doing putting this disc and pressure plate in my 99 Maxima SE this weekend only thing i dont have is a clutch alignment tool but i may have one that will line it up from a friends clutch kit. if anyone is still interested in this upgrade i will reply when im on
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Old 04-06-2011, 06:18 PM
  #96  
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This thread is ridiculously old. Just get one from advanced or autozone or any other auto parts store.
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Old 04-06-2011, 09:41 PM
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You can borrow/rent the alignment tool from the autopart store like Oreilly Autozone.
Dr J
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Old 04-08-2011, 05:27 AM
  #98  
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i tried to they wouldn't sell me one without a clutch kit... i tried Autozone, Advanced Auto Parts, and Oreilly's im gona go to Napa today and see if they have it they close at 7pm here i didnt have time to get there the day i went. i have friends that work at advanced and oreilly's ill see if they will let me barrow one.

just for the record the 36mm cv nuts are a ***** to get off i had to put the breaker bar on the socket and drive the car forward (for the passanger side) and backwards (driver side) using the ground as my muscle to remove them. i tried electric impacts and manualy prying with the breaker bar and had no luck
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Old 04-08-2011, 04:12 PM
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The axle nuts are not supposed to be that tight. Either age seized them up or some asshat didnt have a torque wrench.
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Old 04-09-2011, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by JSutter
The axle nuts are not supposed to be that tight. Either age seized them up or some asshat didnt have a torque wrench.
LOL, seriously. Specs for the locknut are 174-231. I don't weight 231lbs, so I definitely need more than a 1ft long 'breaker bar'! Haha.

PB Blaster is your friend!

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Old 04-09-2011, 01:17 PM
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I parted out a 99 with relatively new hub bearings. I used a 5 foot long pipe and it wouldnt budge. I broke every breaker bar I had at the time. I had to take a cut off wheel to the nutt.
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Old 04-09-2011, 02:07 PM
  #102  
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Glad it was just a part-out! I think my worst was the rear engine mount bolts. Extension bars long enough to clear the fender, and then breaker bar extended to about 10ft. There was so much flex in the 'system' that it nearly didn't work!

I'm old school, I don't use air tools. Which woulda made getting those bolts off the flywheel so much easier. Doing it by hand, gotta jam a flathead screwdriver into the teeth to stop the flywheel from turning.

Dr J
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Old 04-12-2011, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by JSutter
The axle nuts are not supposed to be that tight. Either age seized them up or some asshat didnt have a torque wrench.
some asshat didnt have a torque wrench but had a big air wrench and ran it up and left it as it was

I finished all the work on sunday night i replaced the clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing and retainer clip, clutch slave cylinder, rear valve cover gasket, intake manifold gasket and throttle body gasket, power steering pump and hoses(worst part of the whole job), cv axle seals, y pipe exhaust gaskets and O2 sensor, some other random things i cant think of at the time and i changed all the fluids including the coolant.

it took me about 2 days because i found this and thought i had a problem

after driving around to a bunch of pick a part places and salvage yards to find out if this was normal (no one had any 5 spds) i ended up taking it to an import mechanic and he took one look and told me it was just a hole to release some of the pressure inside the transmission so i drove home drank a 20 pack with a few buds and got it put back in
then this is what the clutch and presure plate look like after i installed it

the clutch cover (pressure plate) that was in it had no vent holes and only 4 single springs and the new one had vent holes and i believe 6 double springs on the clutch disk.

iv driven maybe 100 miles on it now and i love it it grabs really good i beat on it a little (i couldnt resist!) and it grips hard through 1st and there is a loud screech on hard shift to second. no slip what so ever! it engaged right when i let it up off the floor at first but now its letting out about right i may need to adjust it some in the near future but so far it is amazing!
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Old 04-13-2011, 01:46 PM
  #104  
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I dont think that hole is to relieve pressure. Thats what the breather hose is for. If that was a vent, then gear oil would spew onto the clutch.
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Old 04-13-2011, 08:36 PM
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thats what i thought but it hasn't slipped any yet. it looks like it was machined but idk... it defiantly scared the hell out of me seeing that hole there. its running fine no problems yet im going to bleed the the clutch and re adjust the peddle hight this weekend its getting a little squish in it. and my power steering pressure hose is leaking... i dont think i want to take it out again it was not an easy job, for me anyway
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Old 04-13-2011, 09:41 PM
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Don't worry, each time you take it out, you get faster and better at it.
Dr J
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Old 04-15-2011, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by ThurzNite
Don't worry, each time you take it out, you get faster and better at it.
Dr J
lol i know what you mean i can take an engine out and rebuild it but that stupid pump is in a ridiculous place to began with... maybe ill just take it out next time i need to get to the rear valve cover gasket lol i was literally 4 or 5 bolts and some electrical connectors away from being able to lift it out it would be muhc easier to work on on an engine stand. once this cars working 100% im gona be rebuilding my supra toy wanted a 240sx but it was 2k more expensive and like 100 hp less and n/a.

all i need now is a some KYB AGX drop springs a stillin tower bar and my max will be happy again.

P.s. this clutch is amazing!
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Old 04-19-2011, 06:25 PM
  #108  
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That hole is just there to help you knock out the input shaft seal during a rebuild. It's not a vent or anything.

It's not a bad idea to replace the tranny bearings with some high tensiles
WTH is a "high tensile"?

David
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Old 04-20-2011, 01:56 PM
  #109  
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Thats the stuff you put on a christmas tree.
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Old 04-20-2011, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by GeoKohler
replace the tranny bearings with some high tensiles while you have it all apart if you plan on beating it up.
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
WTH is a "high tensile"?
Originally Posted by JSutter
Thats the stuff you put on a christmas tree.
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&s...tinsel&spell=1

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&s...le&btnG=Search

Tinsel vs tensile?

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Old 04-20-2011, 07:39 PM
  #111  
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Guess I wasnt funny
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Old 04-21-2011, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by JSutter
Guess I wasnt funny
Adds how many hp on the butt dyno?

Dr J
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Old 05-17-2011, 10:52 PM
  #113  
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got about 1k miles on the clutch now and its finally settled in. its great it grips like no other and the pedal feel is just like the stock clutch feel. hell iv even noticed better gas mileage with this clutch but thats probably b/c the other one was toasted lol if you want the stock feel with more clamping force this is defiantly the way to go.

241,000 miles and counting still runs like a bat out of hell! my buddy has a Mazda Miata he raced me in the other day its funny how slow those cars are, but i wish my max handled like it does its like a damn go cart.
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