I put a shift knob from a Mitsu EVO on my 97 SE. It screws right on but the threads on the shaft are longer than the threads in the Mitsu knob. Also, the knob sits about 3/4" above the boot. I would like to cut about 3/4" off the shaft which would make it fit perfectly and give me a poor mans short shift kit. Anyone done something like this? How much did you remove and are there any drawbacks? Thanks-
cuttin ur stock shifter will not make ur throw shorter.....its only for looks....but i dont recommend taking off anymore than 1.5 inches...unless u have really long arms....hehe.....along with that if u cut ur shifter u wont have the threads anymore....u might need to retread them or just get a new universal knob...its up to u...i cut my stock shifter about an inch and replaced it with an aftermarket knob....
overall its ok but im plannin on picking up a B&M short throw shifter sooon
hell i cut off 2.5 inches, and it did make the throw alittle shorter. Not like my pacesetter, but a little noticable differance. it looked 1000x better.
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I checked on doing this little mod myself, and the threads (at least in my 96) were about an inch down on the stick, so if i cut an inch, i'd just cut all the thread off, making it useless if i wanted to use the thread to put the stock shifter back on...
so i plan on just getting a STS from custommaxima.com (i hear good things about that one) in a little while and just keep my stock one intact.
I cut mine 3" a few days after I saw ManualMax's thread. It feels pretty good and looks great. The shifts are a bit quicker but it's really a cosmetic mod.
I cut mine 3" a few days after I saw ManualMax's thread. It feels pretty good and looks great. The shifts are a bit quicker but it's really a cosmetic mod.
What knob did you use on there, and how did you secure it?
See that thread for why you are not correct. Not being smart, but it is a good assessment of why cutting a stock shifter DOES actually shorten throws, though not nearly by as much as does an aftermarket STS.
Those of you who cut your stock shifter, did you drill any "set" holes for the set screws in your aftermarket shift knob? And how tightly does the aftermarket knob fit on the shaft, since there is normally a rubber insert that grabs on the threaded part?
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2008 Subaru Legacy 2.5i SE 5MT (DD) 1992 BMW 318i 5MT (Project)
ive cut some shifters b4 and the only knobs that fit are the universal ones. they have 3-4 little allen wrench screws. if you get them tight, add some loc tite, you sould be set.
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i drilled little holes to where my screws form my shifter have alittl emore grip. thwat waht it does nt mover aorud. there is nothing more annoying than a shift knob that spins
Sorry for not replying Patrick. I re-used the stock shifter. Made a ring on the lever with a few layers of duct tape so that the boot doesn't slip. Put 2 layers of DT and some adhesive over the DT and just slipped the knob over. Feels very sturdy and doesn't move at all. If you're gonna cut it cut like 2 or 2.5". I think 3" was too much and 3.5" is WAY too much.
When i bought my car it had a crappy aftermarket shifter, which i replaced with a momo (for those of you who have a momo you know it comes with those rubber "condoms" that fit over the level to make it a snug fit inside the knob.) Well, this wasnt cutting it, and it just so happened the crappy aftermarket one used the same type of mechanism but had a hard plastic adapter of the exact same dimensions, i sliced up the lever with some little grooves made with a dremmel and then used a heat gun to slightly melt the plastic cap while it was sitting on the lever, which I intended to have it set in place melting into the grooved/threads etc (which worked amazingly.) Since it shrunk slightly i put the smallest condom on there and then put the knob on for a very very snug/solid fit before even putting in the set screws.
That sucker is rock solid, although my approach may have been somewhat unorthodox; it got the job done!
It's sitting on a B&M STS
As far as the people that say simply cutting down the stock shifter doesn't decrease your shifts, you're absolutely wrong. Think about the simple physics. The shorter the lever, the shorter your hand/arm must travel to get from one place to another. That's all there is to it.
Thus, above the pivot point, the shift lever DOES INDEED travel less distance, however, below the pivot point (where the base of the lever moves the change rod) still travels the same distance it did before of course.
So you can definitely call it a "poor mans STS" because it does decrease the distance your arm travels, whereas a real STS changes the pivot such that the lever below the pivot point travels up to 40% less (in the case of a B&M) causing much less movement in the lever above the pivot point as well.
A highschool reject could comprehend this, come on now...
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Thanks for the info on how you set yuor momo- good information! As to the rest of your post:
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomservo291
As far as the people that say simply cutting down the stock shifter doesn't decrease your shifts, you're absolutely wrong. Think about the simple physics. The shorter the lever, the shorter your hand/arm must travel to get from one place to another. That's all there is to it.
Thus, above the pivot point, the shift lever DOES INDEED travel less distance, however, below the pivot point (where the base of the lever moves the change rod) still travels the same distance it did before of course.
So you can definitely call it a "poor mans STS" because it does decrease the distance your arm travels, whereas a real STS changes the pivot such that the lever below the pivot point travels up to 40% less (in the case of a B&M) causing much less movement in the lever above the pivot point as well.
See that thread for why you are not correct. Not being smart, but it is a good assessment of why cutting a stock shifter DOES actually shorten throws, though not nearly by as much as does an aftermarket STS.
That whole thread was about the physics of simply shortenting the input shaft length and its impact on throw distance. You should have chimed in on that thread. Actually, it is not too late now...but thanks for the info, nonetheless.
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