How long for a Beginner Brake Job
#1
How long for a Beginner Brake Job
I am about to change my front brake pads. how long should this take to do both sides and what snags can I expect. Is this something a beginner should even attempt? and what are the best pads to get. I Just came back from midas and the tried to rape me for pads and rotors. They said i was looking at 750 for front and back and like 350 for the fronts alone. Is this normal???
#2
no they are ripping you off. u can do this very easily with proper tools. i changed my brake pads + rotors within 30 minutes each side. here's detail instruction:
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/300
good luck.
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/300
good luck.
#7
oh my god do it yourself... theres nothing better than doing your own work.. especially front brakes.. its sooooooooooo easy. Like the rice man said, sockets and dont forget a C clamp to push in the piston. Basically take off the two caliper bolts and the pads come off... I only usually take out the lower one and swing the caliper up with the top one still on, its easier that way. Before you put in the new ones press in the piston with the C clamp and re install the new brakes. Its as easy as that.
The rear ones you need a rear caliper piston tool. it looks like a cube and it attaches to your rachet. You line up the holes and screw it back in.
If you guys are really beginners and have NEVER done brake jobs, pick up a Haynes manual. Its worth its weight in gold. Take your time and use jackstands. And of course enjoy
The rear ones you need a rear caliper piston tool. it looks like a cube and it attaches to your rachet. You line up the holes and screw it back in.
If you guys are really beginners and have NEVER done brake jobs, pick up a Haynes manual. Its worth its weight in gold. Take your time and use jackstands. And of course enjoy
#8
Thanks everyone i did it and it wasnt hard at all. the hardest part was getting the caliper back. but once i figured that out it was no problem. I went with ceramic pads. they actually were the best at autozone. my next task it replacing the rotors. After doing the pads i cant imagine that would be any harder than changing the pads. **** midas and George Forman!!
#9
#10
OMG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
$750 for a front and back brake joB???????????????
OMG OMG OMG
Is that legal?
Yo mang, im sure its already been said, brakes are pretty easy and $750 HAHA.
Floor jack, jack stands, C-clamp, socket set, (i use needlenose vice grips to turn down the back calipers), & pads.
Clear fishtank type tubing makes easy no mess way to bleed the lines. Youll need like a empty soda botte to drain off into.
You could buy all the stuff you need to do the brakes for less than 100 bucks including the brake pads!!!
You have to do the front and the back with all wheel disk brakes.
BTW thanks for the laugh.....$750...........
$750 for a front and back brake joB???????????????
OMG OMG OMG
Is that legal?
Yo mang, im sure its already been said, brakes are pretty easy and $750 HAHA.
Floor jack, jack stands, C-clamp, socket set, (i use needlenose vice grips to turn down the back calipers), & pads.
Clear fishtank type tubing makes easy no mess way to bleed the lines. Youll need like a empty soda botte to drain off into.
You could buy all the stuff you need to do the brakes for less than 100 bucks including the brake pads!!!
You have to do the front and the back with all wheel disk brakes.
BTW thanks for the laugh.....$750...........
#11
Yeah Crazy right? I was thinking that I am in the wrong business. Most people probably dont specify what kind of pads or rotors they want so they probably put the cheapest pads on and rotors. Auto zone had pads for 14.99.
#13
great info. how far or how much do we need to turn the piston. is there a stop point?
USING A NEEDLE-NOSED PLIERS, SLOWLY TURN THE PISTON IN THE CALIPER CLOCKWISE. THE OUTER DUST SEAL WILL STICK TO THE PISTON AND DISTORT IF YOU TURN THE PISTON TOO FAST. MAKES SURE THE DUST SEAL IS IN ITS NORMAL FORM!
USING A NEEDLE-NOSED PLIERS, SLOWLY TURN THE PISTON IN THE CALIPER CLOCKWISE. THE OUTER DUST SEAL WILL STICK TO THE PISTON AND DISTORT IF YOU TURN THE PISTON TOO FAST. MAKES SURE THE DUST SEAL IS IN ITS NORMAL FORM!
Originally Posted by Chunger
#14
Originally Posted by joew
great info. how far or how much do we need to turn the piston. is there a stop point?
USING A NEEDLE-NOSED PLIERS, SLOWLY TURN THE PISTON IN THE CALIPER CLOCKWISE. THE OUTER DUST SEAL WILL STICK TO THE PISTON AND DISTORT IF YOU TURN THE PISTON TOO FAST. MAKES SURE THE DUST SEAL IS IN ITS NORMAL FORM!
USING A NEEDLE-NOSED PLIERS, SLOWLY TURN THE PISTON IN THE CALIPER CLOCKWISE. THE OUTER DUST SEAL WILL STICK TO THE PISTON AND DISTORT IF YOU TURN THE PISTON TOO FAST. MAKES SURE THE DUST SEAL IS IN ITS NORMAL FORM!
Usually just enough to fit in your new pads...
If you overshoot, no big.... the piston will come back out the 1st time you pump the brakes...
#15
Originally Posted by sagemistse
Thanks everyone i did it and it wasnt hard at all. the hardest part was getting the caliper back. but once i figured that out it was no problem. I went with ceramic pads. they actually were the best at autozone. my next task it replacing the rotors. After doing the pads i cant imagine that would be any harder than changing the pads. **** midas and George Forman!!
FYI
Ceramic pads aren't necessarily the best, even though they might be the most expensive. Like most parts on the car, it depends on how you use it. Ceramic pads are great for racing and alot of hard driving. Ceramic brakes work best after they have been heated up....which is not really how most people drive every time we get into our Max's. Semi-metalic would be a better choice.
-cap
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