recharging the A/C

MustangX · 05-13-2004, 05:20 AM

Hello everyone,

Okay it is HOT as hell these last couple days and I just ran out of A/C
I checked the FAQ's before posting, but I didnt find anything. so I need some help. I bought a recharging kit, but I am having trouble finding the correct A/C port to attach the kit to. Any help is much appreciated.

Thanks in advance

UncleMax98 · 05-13-2004, 06:25 AM

You need to charge into the low pressure port. Follow the metal AC hose. Along the way you will see a tap with a plastic cap on. There is a letter molded on the plastic cap. The one with the letter L is the low pressure port. The high pressure port has an H. They are different size anyway, you probably won't be able to plug in the wrong port.

Brudaddy · 05-13-2004, 09:46 AM

Do the 99's run on that new system that everything was converting to a little while back? I was kind of assuming this because you were going to do this yourself. I don't know though.
I just remember, I used to use that Freon, but they made it where you could not buy it anymore.

*Pearl99GXE* · 05-13-2004, 09:53 AM

Yes, the 99's run on the new stuff. I have a small leake some where and have to add a can of freon once a year. Easy to recharge, because the hose will only fit on the low pressure side. I believe it has the blue cap.

MustangX · 05-13-2004, 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UncleMax98

You need to charge into the low pressure port. Follow the metal AC hose. Along the way you will see a tap with a plastic cap on. There is a letter molded on the plastic cap. The one with the letter L is the low pressure port. The high pressure port has an H. They are different size anyway, you probably won't be able to plug in the wrong port.

Thanks dudes,

I'll try it tonight.... Freaking HOT and leather is not cool...

***gtr_rider*** · 05-13-2004, 11:28 AM

I like the link, in your sig

*DAVE Sz* · 05-13-2004, 02:00 PM

I hope you bought a kit that has a gauge on it. If you just have the hose and can you can overcharge the system and boom. You don't know whtether the system is completely empty or not. Better safe than sorry. Also if you accidently connect it to the HIGH pressure port the can explodes.

*nupe500* · 05-13-2004, 02:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slammed95

So how exactly does the procedure go? I'm assuming it's a pressurized bottle. So you just connect the hose and squirt the stuff in?

Just did this on my max...and what you do is first check what your levels are by using the gauge on the low side (as already mentioned). Just a precaution. Once you've done so...you connect your can of freon to the provided hose, and connect other end to the Low side again.

once connected...you turn the piercer...which pierces the can of freon, and then unscrew it to let the freon flow...once that starts, keep shaking the can..actually it is advised to get a warm towel to wrap the can in because it can get cold real quick...but continue shaking...until the can is empty...

BTW...the CAR MUST BE RUNNING AND THE AC MUST BE ON!!!!!...takes maybe 30 minutes with two cans...fully emptying the cans...

RI-Max · 05-13-2004, 02:39 PM

um if your ac is blowing warm air and your compressor is clicking on 2 off fast it means your low on freeon. also means u have a leak some where in the system..and if u over charge it you'll free the evaportaor.

boyzindahood978 · 05-13-2004, 02:48 PM

My AC blows warm air. I couldn't tell you how it was last summer because I didn't have it then. Either on defrost or AC I get a hissing noise from the passenger dash area. Sign of a leak??

MustangX · 05-13-2004, 04:37 PM

Ahhh nothing like cold A/C on a hot summer day.
I ended up buying a gauge to check the pressure.
The low A/C port is located near the P/S resevoir it is light blue cap marked "L"

Thanks again guys.

radar912 · 05-13-2004, 05:38 PM

I am in ontario canada, they dont sell the kits here I am told, lokking at 250.00 just to check and charge the system. My compressor runs but blows hot air, guessing its a slow leak, was warmer last year than the year before. The car is a 99 gle, can you run freon in this year or does it have to be the new stuff? If I can run freon, where can I get some, thks.

*DAVE Sz* · 05-13-2004, 07:40 PM

It is the new stuff. R134 or whatever it's called has been used for a long time already. Unless there is some new thing I haven't heard of yet use the r134 charge kits.

*Nismotic* · 05-13-2004, 09:37 PM

Good thread for the upcoming heat. I'll be doing this during the weekend

*nupe500* · 05-14-2004, 03:28 AM

R134 is the standard since early 90s so it applies to all cars...as far as the clicks or hissing that some are getting that is likely your compressor turning itself on...I hear mine once in a while and my AC is cold!!

**Stephen Max** · 05-14-2004, 04:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big D

I hope you bought a kit that has a gauge on it. If you just have the hose and can you can overcharge the system and boom. You don't know whtether the system is completely empty or not. Better safe than sorry. Also if you accidently connect it to the HIGH pressure port the can explodes.

The fittings for the high side and low side are different size. You would have to be pretty ingenious to figure out a way to connect the can to the high pressure side using the typical cheapo refill kit.

roadrunner · 05-14-2004, 04:40 AM

Question, if you need to add freon, does this mean there is definitely a leak somewhere, or is this something that generally needs to be added once or twice in the car's lifetime? I had to add some too, but this is the first time I've had to do this on my '96.

**Stephen Max** · 05-14-2004, 05:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roadrunner

Question, if you need to add freon, does this mean there is definitely a leak somewhere, or is this something that generally needs to be added once or twice in the car's lifetime? I had to add some too, but this is the first time I've had to do this on my '96.

If you ever need to add feon it's because some has leaked out. Every automotive AC system will develop leaks at the o-rings eventually. If all it takes is a can every summer to recharge the system, it's not worth (IMO) going in and replacing the leaking o-rings, unless you have an R-12 system.

UncleMax98 · 05-14-2004, 05:53 AM

Do we need to add oil along with the refrigerant? Maybe every third can or so? What kind of refrigerant? Autozone has many types, POE, PAG 46, PAG 110, etc.

**Stephen Max** · 05-14-2004, 06:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UncleMax98

Do we need to add oil along with the refrigerant? Maybe every third can or so? What kind of refrigerant? Autozone has many types, POE, PAG 46, PAG 110, etc.

Oil will not leak out as easily as the freon, and probably doesn't ever need to be added unless you have a massive leak, such as when completely disconnecting a line with the system pressurized. Then the force of the freon escaping can take oil with it.

You can add oil if you want, but it takes up space that could be used for freon and your AC efficiency will suffer.

Brudaddy · 05-14-2004, 06:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nupe500

R134 is the standard since early 90s so it applies to all cars...as far as the clicks or hissing that some are getting that is likely your compressor turning itself on...I hear mine once in a while and my AC is cold!!

This has not been standard since the early 90's in cars. It has been standard since about the late 90's (maybe back to 96, 97). I agree with the comments on the compressor.

Quote:

Originally Posted by radar912

I am in ontario canada, they dont sell the kits here I am told, lokking at 250.00 just to check and charge the system. My compressor runs but blows hot air, guessing its a slow leak, was warmer last year than the year before. The car is a 99 gle, can you run freon in this year or does it have to be the new stuff? If I can run freon, where can I get some, thks.

You cannot even buy the old kind of "freon" anymore, I don't believe. They made it illegal and you now have to convert it over. Something about it harming the environment or something.

*nupe500* · 05-14-2004, 10:11 AM

[QUOTE=Brudaddy]This has not been standard since the early 90's in cars. It has been standard since about the late 90's (maybe back to 96, 97). I agree with the comments on the compressor.

You are correct...my bad..

"Their manufacture is being discontinued as of January 1, 1996! R-12 is a CFC and often referred to as CFC-12."

funny thing is my 95 is R-134a..

Brudaddy · 05-14-2004, 11:17 AM

Well, Nissan was ahead of other manufacturers for a while in a lot of things. For instance, Maximas and other Nissans were getting 4 wheel disc brakes long before some other makes. I mean, I sold Chryslers last year, and the base model PT Cruiser still had rear drum brakes. That sucks.

Either that, or someone that had the car before you converted it knowing that everything was going that way.

*DAVE Sz* · 05-14-2004, 11:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stephen Max

The fittings for the high side and low side are different size. You would have to be pretty ingenious to figure out a way to connect the can to the high pressure side using the typical cheapo refill kit.

Every can of r134 has that warning on it so apparently there are some dumb asses out there that can get that done.

jguillory · 05-14-2004, 01:33 PM

Every new car sold in the US since the 1993 model year uses R-134A as required by law; Some manufacturers starting using it earlier, but I don't think Nissan did...

You can still buy R-12, although I don't think it is made anymore; and most shops will still be able to service older systems - the refrigerant is just really expensive - likely >$50 a lb versus ~$6-10 per lb for R-134A.

davey6693 · 05-14-2004, 01:38 PM

There's not much info for max owners on a/c service. I'm putting together a complete reference and a how-to that will be finished in early July when I overhaul my a/c.

A couple of pointers for people using the can:
1. The low pressure side gauge is pretty much useless because our compressor is a variable displacement unit that tries to maintain a constant low side value. If you don't have a set of pressure gauges that can measure the high and low side pressures, your best bet is to measure the outlet vent temperature in the cabin.

2. DON'T TURN THE CAN UPSIDE DOWN. If you have done that and nothing bad happened, you're lucky! The compressor can only accept refrigerant as a gas, not a liquid. If liquid is introduced into the compressor you might end up busting it for good, just like me.

3. Don't use ANY can with stop leak in it. The reasons are covered here.

These cans are generally not a good idea and they're called a death rig for a reason - but when a/c repairs are so expensive it's pretty hard to talk yourself out of shoving a can in there to see what happens. Like I say, been there myself.

Spaniard · 05-14-2004, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davey6693

There's not much info for max owners on a/c service. I'm putting together a complete reference and a how-to that will be finished in early July when I overhaul my a/c.

A couple of pointers for people using the can:
1. The low pressure side gauge is pretty much useless because our compressor is a variable displacement unit that tries to maintain a constant low side value. If you don't have a set of pressure gauges that can measure the high and low side pressures, your best bet is to measure the outlet vent temperature in the cabin.

2. DON'T TURN THE CAN UPSIDE DOWN. If you have done that and nothing bad happened, you're lucky! The compressor can only accept refrigerant as a gas, not a liquid. If liquid is introduced into the compressor you might end up busting it for good, just like me.

3. Don't use ANY can with stop leak in it. The reasons are covered here.

These cans are generally not a good idea and they're called a death rig for a reason - but when a/c repairs are so expensive it's pretty hard to talk yourself out of shoving a can in there to see what happens. Like I say, been there myself.

Phew glad I read that post!

Brudaddy · 05-19-2004, 01:32 PM

yeah, thanks, davey.
Good post.

**Stephen Max** · 05-20-2004, 03:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jguillory

You can still buy R-12, although I don't think it is made anymore; and most shops will still be able to service older systems - the refrigerant is just really expensive - likely >$50 a lb versus ~$6-10 per lb for R-134A.

I just bought 3 14 oz cans of R-12 for $60 this week. My mechanic friend charges $100 per can!!!

R-12 is not being made in the US and most industrialized countries. But it is still being made elsewhere. China, no doubt.