nissanfreak

iTrader: (4)

Today me and my dad got the front two shocks and springs on and we went ahead used the old dust boot. The boots seemed to be bearly hanging on. In other words, they were pretty rough looking. My question is since we already put them on there, is there like a dust cover I can buy and put over the existing one without having to remove the the shock and and spring again? Also would it still be aright to torque the top nut down to the 50 foot pounds while its already on the car or should I just go ahead and take it out and torque it down? Please let me know ASAP I want to get back on the road in my Max soon! Thanks in advance guys!

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

Are you lowering or just replacing worn out components?

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

You needed new boots, or at least to trim the top 1/2 of the bumpstop off of the OEM boots.

If it were me I woudl do the rear end right, then pull the front as soon as I got the chance to either cut the bumpstops or replace the boots with KYB boots.

Also, did you replace your strut bearings? How many miles on the car?

Brudaddy

iTrader: (2)

phenryiv1, would you recommend just cutting the original bumpstops on the dustboots or just paying like $60 more and getting some KYB dustboots?
I have not done mine yet, but when I do them, I want to be totally ready?

nissianfreak, please post any pics that you can throughout the process. I would love to see how all this is done and what the red looks like lowered some. I will do it soon.
Thanks...

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

Bruce- I know that you want to do it once and do it right, so I recommend dropping the $60 on new boots from KYB. You CAN trim the OEMs, btu it is much better to do it right w/ the KYBs where there is no room for error. Also, if you are at or near the 50K mark, you may want to sdo strut bearings as well.

The guy who installed the suspension on the I30 did NOT, and now I have to re-do it this spring with new bearings. Pain in the ****.

Lastly, if you can scrape up the cash, do motvational rear mounts. For $100, they make life much more comfortable, unless you drive on pristine roads.

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

You are not going to be able to reach them with the springs around them.

You will be very, very lucky if you do not develop suspension noise in the very near future. You really should have asked these questions BEFORE you started the install. You have a $500+ suspension in there, but you could wear it out much faster because you did not do $100 in maintainence to keep things operating as they should.

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

Well, rear suspension is a snap to remove and reinstall, so the strut mounts could wait. Definately replace the strut bearings. They are about $70 for the pair, and the front is a setup that you don't want to pull and replace more than you have to.

Also, KYB dustboots are universal, and they work with all types of struts, as far as I know. I know that they work with KYB (duh) and Tokico.

You have 2 options to buy them for a good price- Ange has a GD on them for $60 for the set, or you can order them from a local parts store if you know the proper part numbers for them to reference. They are post #48 of the FAQs, I believe. SB103 and SB108.

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

For the dustboots, it is not just the boots, but also the bumpstops. Not trimming your bumpstops limits suspension trave, which is not a good thing.

Brudaddy

iTrader: (2)

Does trimming the bumpstops cut the life of the dustboots short or not?
Is it just a necessity to keep the same amount of suspension travel when lowering?
I will probably end up with some Illuminas. I found some for a really good deal.

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

Ange is still selling them, or you can go to an advanced auto or autozone. Tell them that you need strut boots with the part numbers sb103 and sb108. In the FAQs there is a post explaining what all you have to order if they cannot reference those parts. 2 are from a 95 mustang and 2 are from a 95 miata, but I cannot remember which. I believe it is post # 48 in the FAQs.

An alignment does NOT require removing the struts in any way, so if you take them to a shop and have them installed it will cost you as much as a full suspension install. ALSO, if you do replace the strut boots, take some extra $ and replace your strut bearings. I believe it is $70 for the pair. If you do this, you will basically be refreshing your suspension for another 75,000 miles. It is an investment in the future of your car. Eventually, your original bearings will kick the bucket and you will have to replace them. The original owner of my car did not and now I have to do it. He had 55K when he did the install, now @ 100K there are problems.

I would do the strutboot and bearing install @ home and THEN get an alignment, OR go to a sears/ntb and get a LIFETIME alignment. That way you can get it re-aligned any time you have to fool w/ suspension. It is a little more $ up front, but worth it in the end. You could get is aligned now, save up the $ for the dustboots and bearings, then in 2-3 months install the boots/bearings, then get it realigned (free).

Actually, when I did my suspension I went to have it aligned and they said it was within factory specs, so I never actually had it done.

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

Find a diagram of the dustboots if you can. Someone on here has one. if you look @ OEM versus KYB, you will see that the part that you trim on the OEM is just extra rubber. A bumpstop is a rubber bumper that lessens the impact of bottoming out. They keep the strut piston from going ALL OF THE WAY into the strut body. the KYB "trimmed" (shortened, really) bumpstops still offer adequate protection when bottoming out while giving back 3/4"-1" of suspension travel that is lost when you go to a lowering spring.

You do not HAVE to keep the same amount of suspensin travel, btu for longevity of struts and overall ride comfort, it is best to have as much travel as possible (within reasonable limits, of course).

PM me the details on the illuminas.

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

KYB dust boots do NOT work w/ GC coilovers. You MUST cut and reuse the bumpstops from your OEM struts, but there will be NO dusboot on them.

Strut bearings are the bearing that sits at the top of the strut assembly. As the car turns left or right, the wheels turn in or out (depending on whiich way you are turning). THis causes the spring to coil mor tightly when turning one way and causes it to unciol when turning the other way. The bearings allow the whole coil to turn, as opposed to the spring coiling/uncioling.

This coiling/uncoiling can cause the spring to unseat, it can cause noise, and it can cause rubbing.

I will do what I can to search for this information, but search is sketchy, even for donors.

We really need a strut diagram in the FAQs.

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

A blindfolded monkey could trim the OEM ones.

They are shaped like an hourglass. You trim them at the thin part- the neck, if you will.

If the boots are still in okay shape it is fine to do that. Most peopl ego w/ KYB b/c they are cheaper than the OEM ones (Dealer-only items) and are already "trimmed."

Brudaddy

iTrader: (2)

Patrick, you are a plethora of information....

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

Yes. I woudl do bushings and bearings up front.

There is no way to used dustboots w/ GC coilovers. I installed a set last april and not only can you not use the dustboots, it TELLS you to cut the bumpstop OFF OF the dustboot, and then it tells you to trim the bumpstop. All of this is right in the directions to the GCs.

One additional note- you will have to grind a hexagional/octagional lip off of the AGX to fit the sleve onto the strut body. The instructions that come with the GCs recognize this and tell you how. It is not difficult, just be aware of it and have the tools ready. I woudl advise doing this in advance.

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ght=suspension
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ght=suspension
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ght=suspension
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ght=suspension
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ght=suspension
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ght=suspension

6 different threads with ish for you guys to read up on.

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

gtr_rider

iTrader: (50)

If they say you need one, then thats the way it goes

XeroX

iTrader: (13)

Ok. so the bushings...how often do these need to be replaced?

I just went to the dealer and put in an order for the front strut bearings...but i didnt get the bushing simply because i didnt think he knew what i was talking about, simply cause I didnt know what i was talking about lol..

on that diagram, what is the part? what is the correct name?

and what happens to those bushings? some people have told me to change and some have told me not too...

volkl77

Ok...Here ya go... Every part number you MAY want to replace if you want to completely renew your suspension.
A couple of notes here.
54034-A3203 (#14 on phenryiv1's diagram) is listed incorrectly on their website as the Upper Spring Sleeve where in fact it is the Upper Spring Seat Insulator, the big rubber donut that sits between the spring and the steel seat.
54040-31U02 (#13 on phenryiv1's diagram) is listed incorrectly as the rubber insulator but is in fact the steel Upper Spring Seat. Trust me on this, I found out the hard way. To their credit Courtesy sent the correct part and a return shipping label/call tag for the incorrect parts.
#17 on phenryiv1's diagram is the Strut Bearing. Its surprisingly small and made of a plastic material with roller bearings inside.
Keep in mind that you will need 2 of each item with the exception of the Energy parts. The $$ total at the bottom reflects the correct quantities.

Like most everyone will tell you, get the KYB Dust boots/bumpers from Ange at RedlineMax.com. Great folks there and as good a price as you will find.

Hope this helps

Cheers!


CourtesyParts.com 1.800.527.1909 or 1.972.644.3942

54325-A3201 [FRONT] Strut Bearing 1995-1999 Maxima $27.60
54034-A3201 [FRONT] Lower Spring Sleeve 1995-1999 Maxima $7.55
54034-A3202 [FRONT] Middle Spring Sleeve 1995-1999 Maxima $10.87
54034-A3203 [FRONT] Upper Spring Sleeve 1995-1999 Maxima $10.56
54329-A3201 [FRONT] Upper Spacer Gasket 1995-1999 Maxima $8.32
54050-A3201 [FRONT] Dust Boot/Bump Stop Assembly GXE/GLE 1995-1999 Maxima $12.31
54050-A3202 [FRONT] Dust Boot/Bump Stop Assembly SE ONLY 1995-1999 Maxima $12.31
55034-A3201 [REAR] Upper Spring Seat Insulator 1995-1999 Maxima $9.40
56217-A3201 [REAR] Upper Bushing 1995-1999 Maxima $2.12
56218-A3201 [REAR] Lower Bushing 1995-1999 Maxima $2.52
55031-A3201 [REAR] Spring Sleeve 1995-1999 Maxima $5.70
55338-A3201 [REAR] Upper Spacer Gasket 1995-1999 Maxima $17.14
55240-A3201 [REAR] Dust Boot And Bump Stop Assembly 1995-1999 Maxima $24.15
7-5118G Energy Suspension 20mm Front Sway Bar Bushing Set $12.95
G4803 Energy Suspension Bushing (4) - Front Sway Bar End Link 1995-1999 Maxima $5.96
7-3111G Energy Suspension Front Control Arm Bushing Set $30.00
Total: $350.01

volkl77

Ok... here's my opinion on what is essential to replace. Others may disagree. Again, any soft parts (rubber, poly, gaskets) will deteriorate with age and wear. You have it all apart once, may as well do it once.

54325-A3201 [FRONT] Strut Bearing 1995-1999 Maxima $27.60
54034-A3203 [FRONT] Upper Spring Sleeve 1995-1999 Maxima $10.56 (Big rubber donut)
55034-A3201 [REAR] Upper Spring Seat Insulator 1995-1999 Maxima $9.40 (smaller rubber donut)
56217-A3201 [REAR] Upper Bushing 1995-1999 Maxima $2.12
56218-A3201 [REAR] Lower Bushing 1995-1999 Maxima $2.52
7-5118G Energy Suspension 20mm Front Sway Bar Bushing Set $12.95
G4803 Energy Suspension Bushing (4) - Front Sway Bar End Link 1995-1999 Maxima $5.96
7-3111G Energy Suspension Front Control Arm Bushing Set $30.00

Reuse the old spring insulators, the ones that wrap the coils at the top and bottom, or use the split electrical loom folks talk about
Get KYB Dust boots. They rock!
I believe the Energy parts really tighten things up, particularly the control arm bushings. If they are old and sloppy the control arm will tend to shift under stress and you will feel a lil shimmy. Not the easiest install because of the HUGE bolts and high torque you will have to deal with.

Cheers!

volkl77

One last detail.
54329-A3201 [FRONT] Upper Spacer Gasket 1995-1999 Maxima $8.32
55338-A3201 [REAR] Upper Spacer Gasket 1995-1999 Maxima $17.14
These two items sit between the whole strut assembly and the strut tower to prevent metal to metal contact. They are nessesary but I know some folks have used heavy gasket material and made their own for a couple of bucks.

maximus_pr

iTrader: (3)

#17 is the plastic bearing and for the Upper Spacer Gasket i used heavy gasket paper and worked extremely well find the thickest you can find it becomes thinner onec you adjust everything

MAXecutive

iTrader: (2)

I just need a little clarification, I will be using H&R/illuminas. If I use KYB sb103 and sb108, will I need to cut the bumpstops or they are already shorter and ready to install?

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

They come pre-shortened. I'd also recommend that you read a few of the sticky threads. They have good info for you as well.

MAXecutive

iTrader: (2)

Yea I read so much, but the thing is, everyone says do this and not that. Every thread gives you a good idea. Then you read the next one and its like wtf should I do. So KYB come ready to installed, thanks.

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

The KYBs will be ready to roll.

If yo uhave not already gotten ner strut bearings, I woudl consider doing that as well. The metal parts are all fine to reuse, but examine the rubber isolators before you throw things back together. If you are really tight on money, you can open up the bearings and re-grease them with lithuim grease, btu new ones are a smart route. I have done both.

Also, be sure that the "OUT" on the strut plates line up with the upper mounts on the front assemblies. You will see what I mean as you take them apart. Do one side at a time and you will be fine. Look around on here for the exploded diagrams of the suspension, if you have not already.

Ruthless

When I bought my Eibachs and Tokico's the Eibacks springs suggested cutting my bump stomp 2cm (hahahah imperial)

anyways, I dont think the bump stop is part of the dust boot. These guys are right tho, i think you should get new boots put on there. I didnt... but i taped my up the best i could and put the old ****ty ones on..... So far no problems and i have been bumpin them for about 2 years now... knock on wood

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

The trimming was if you used OEM or OEM replacement dustboots. The SB108 and SB103 are not really maxima parts- they are from/for a miata and a mustang, but their size is equal to that of the OEM ones with the trimming already done.

MAXecutive

iTrader: (2)

so is the diameter of the bumpstop smaller on the SB103 and SB108? Will it affect the functionality of the dustboot being that it is smaller?

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

It is the height, not the diameter that is different. It does not impact functionality.

hiren_patel_83

iTrader: (2)

jesus christ, it took me like at least 30 minutes to finish reading the threads lol.

But really good info from Patrick.

MAXecutive

iTrader: (2)

Can someone please name parts 13-18. Which ones are neccesary to change when dropping the car? Which ones are optional or 100% reusable?
I read all the stickies and still have that question stuck in my head.

Thanks

MAXecutive

iTrader: (2)

What parts are rubber on the strut/spring assembly for front and rear? I plan to replace all rubber components and re-use all metal. Therefore I need dust boots, upper spring rubber seat. Is the strut mounting insulator rubber???

Reference thread:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=491906

Note: Posts moved by phenryiv1 for consolidation.

Tripower

Yes it is. The isolators are hard rubber imbedded in a metal shell.

MAXecutive

iTrader: (2)

So does it make sense to replace that part?