(4) Drain and replace engine oil/filter.
Water Pump Installation
(5) Install the water pump.
Place the new inner and outer O-ring seals on your new or reused water pump. Coat the seals with coolant. Once again, turn and rotate the water pump into position--paying particular attention NOT to let the new seals come into accidental contact with any metal surface or they can be easily damaged--and very gently push into place. While doing this, you will have to push the limp timing chain up and out of the way. Reinstall the 3 short retaining bolts with washers, again being careful not to drop anything into the timing chain cover. Make sure the timing chain falls clearly over the teeth of the water pump gear and turn the crank pulley 20 degrees clockwise to tighten up the timing chain Again, verify that the gear teeth are firmly engaged with the timing chain.
(6) Install the timing chain tensioner.
To reinstall the timing chain tensioner, you must compress the piston all the way into the tensioner body and prevent it from "unloading" by inserting a pin or a small paper clip end into the small pin-sized side hole near the front opening. I would recommend attaching a string to the pin or paper clip in the event that it should fall out and accidentally fall into the timing chain cover. Next, you must position the compressed tensioner back into position by pulling back on the timing chain guide which has since fallen in the way. Then reinstall the two long retaining bolts. This can be frustrating because of the limited space and because this is mainly done by feel. Again (I can't say this enough), do not let the bolts or their washers to fall into the timing chain cover and be careful not to accidentally pull the pin/paper clip out, unloading the tensioner. Once successfully bolted up, you can then remove the pin/paper clip. The piston should pop out and contact it's similarly cylindrical counterpart on the chain tensioner guide.
(7) Replace covers.
First clean both timing chain tensioner and water pump access covers and mating surfaces on the timing chain cover of any old gasket material. Use a degreaser (I used brake cleaner) to make sure no oil residues have fouled the surfaces. Apply high-temp RTV gasket sealant (ie. Permatex) to the cover borders and reattach and bolt securely. Note: this can be quite difficult and messy because of the limited space--have paper towels or cleaning wipes handy! Allow the sealant sufficient time to cure.
(8) Final steps.
Replace alternator belt and tensioner pulley. Replace coolant. I would recommend filling the coolant reservoir a little ABOVE the "max" line in anticipation that a significant amount will be drawn into the cooling system to replenish the coolant that was lost to spillage when the pump was removed.
Start up the car. Do NOT be alarmed to hear a horrific chain rattling noise. The noise will eventually quiet but may not go away even when idling for a while. Rest assured that the noise will go completely away after a short drive around the block. You may also hear a gurgling/bubbling sound as the water pump is pumping coolant AND some air in the system. After a long drive to get the engine nice and warm (consider turning the heater on to speed the flow of coolant), recheck the level of the coolant reservoir and add coolant if necessary. NEVER remove the radiator cap when the engine is still warm.
To create more working room, it is also optional to remove the passenger side motor mount. You can also remove the power steering reservoir to move the hose out of the way. As was previously mentioned, you can also remove the power steering belt. Lastly, it is also possible that removing the crank pulley will also create more working room but that is a little more extreme.
Finally thanks to Stephen Max and others who shared their water pump changing experience previously--definitely helped me.