Big_Ham

iTrader: (1)

So, I'm not feeling like such a maxima freak lately. I'm about ready to trade my car in. For the second time in a week the car didn't start for me. I'm at my wits end as the car has been to Nissan 5 times in the last week and a half and they can't figure it out.

Symptoms:
Car has 93000 miles.
Hard starts 96% of the time. This has been getting increasingly worse since November.
Twice now the car hasn't started.
Tonight the first crank it attempted to turn over. Turned the car off, then a VERY weak try at turning over. Tried once more ... didn't even try to turn over. Held the key and the RPM's were jumping all over the place ... all the way up to 3000RPM, but no engine noise. Finally had to push start it.

What's been fixed so far:
New plugs
New fuel filter
cleaned IACV
cleaned injectors
re-grounded ECU and upgraded firmware

Next step:
Nissan ordered an ECU. This should be here Tuesday. I'm obviously not going to pay $775 for a new ECU from Nissan if this winds up being the problem, I'll buy one from the junkyard, but I'm doubting this is the issue.

I may be missing a thing or two on the "fix" list - I've dropped $1900 in the last 6 weeks on this car ... other fixes were breand new power steering rack, CV joint and something else.

When it doesn't start, I do get a click ... it just doesn't turn over. When it does turn over it needs at least two cranks. The last time it didn't start, I let it sit for an hour, came back to it and it started.

Mods:
Stillen Y, Stillen B (resonated), straight pipe and a JWT HAI.

I can't continue like this. I need to get this shiz fixed but I don't even know where to start and that whole RPM jumping thing was REALLY wierd. Never saw that before. The one thing I can say for sure is that this is CLEARLY getting worse as time goes on. Once the car is started, it runs like a champ. My clutch sucks so I had horrible times at the track, but it really does run very well.

I need HELP! I've never been this desperate about a car. Nissan says they did all kinds of tests and can't find anything. What tests I'm not sure, but I have a good relationship with my Svc. Manager, so I can't imagine he's intentionally trying to screw me. Please ask questions if you have them, I'm going to pay close attention to this thread as I'm looking to get as many things to bring with me to Nissan as possible.

to those that help ...

96GreenMax

iTrader: (2)

shot in the dark maybe the anti-theft if your car has that?

TreeFarm

Wish I could help ya out, but unfortunatly I can't. Hope someone else will be able to toss out some valuable tips for ya.

(_8*(l)Homer

Sounds like all you need is a new starter. Or just rebuild your existing one like I did. Took about 1hr total with removal, cleaning which took 40 min, and re install.

Mine had similar symptoms.

maximka

i wouldnt mess with the car, i would take the mods off, sell it, and get another maxima! if you will keep the car, you will probably dump more money into it... it is just one of those unfortunate cars ...

mansurxk

iTrader: (14)

umm...yeah...what happens when a potential buyer wants to drive the car and it doenst start til the 3rd time....when you say it doesnt start, does it crank?, and that clicking noise, sounds like its something to do with the starter, next time it makes that clicking noise, try to smack the side with a rubber mallet see if it starts up after that

Big_Ham

iTrader: (1)

Egg-zactly.

Anyway ... I don't mind dumping some cash in the car if I have to as it's paid off and has been for 2 years. This is the first time I've dropped money into it (aside from mods) in those 2 years. So I'm still ahead at this point.

I have to get this fixed as mansurxk points out ... in order to sell the car, it kinda has to start. Otherwise I'll be selling my otherwise cherry Maxima for $3k instead of $7k. That doesn't sound like a very good deal.

That said ... the mods are probably coming out as soon as possible. I'll look for a really good deal on a car that I won't lose money on and drive it for a few months until I can decide what I really want.

Anyone have a factory '98 non-bose head unit they wanna sell me? How about just some plain old good advice about WTF is wrong with my car?

Signed,
Frustratedtoallhell

mansurxk

iTrader: (14)

i recall someoen saying that their fuse for a starter signal was burend out, the car apparently started, but after a few attempts, didnt make sense because the car shouldnt have started, but that did solve his problem, so it probalby doenst function in the manner that we think the fuse should

Iilac

iTrader: (65)

This has started to happen on my max as well. But mine started after I changed the battery but it still kinda does it. I have no clues and hopefully u will find a solution.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Crank angle sensor? Hell of alot cheaper than the ecu etc.....

Keith P

Another angle. Go through all of the engine electrical connectors you can get to. Check for debris in the connections and spray them with air or contact cleaner. Sounds intermitant, but can the engine vibration keep the contact good?

nupe500

iTrader: (13)

also...did you check the battery? You didn't mention that in your post? If it clicks...it sounds like no power...or maybe your battery cable has corrosion on it..

Big_Ham

iTrader: (1)

Battery and battery cable are fine. I have juice ... the battery shows 12V at rest and I can use the stereo, headlights, etc.

This morning the car once again will not start up. It's completely dead. I'm working from home today thank god, but now I"m REALLY stuck in the house. This is an awful feeling.

Jeff - where is the crank angle sensor? Would that really cause the car to not start?

Additionally, if the starter was bad, would I get the "click" when I go to start the car even tho it doesn't turn over?

Dreizehn

iTrader: (4)

The crank position sensor is located on the under side of the crank pulley. I'll email you a pic.

MaximamixaM

I'd still wonder about the battery-is it new or old? Radio and headlights take 12v, but not as much AMPs as the starter. Will the car start with a jump start? Have you had the alternator/battery/starter checked by autozone,etc. If it push starts, it seems like it must be a starter problem. I'd check neutral safety switch, battery, starter, make sure the alarm isn't screwed up, check all fuses and relays. If not all that consider the ignition switch.

MaximamixaM

a weak battery can cause a clicking sound, but no cranking. If all that fails, consider the crank angle sensor. Does anyone know what the tach reads to get it's signal?

DaBombX

iTrader: (1)

I don't recall any clicking noise when my starter was dying. But it's really easy to check, like everyone was saying. Tap on it. I used a socket wrench.
Here's Motorvate's pictures to help you locate the starter.
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/516

If your car starts up after tapping, it's a good bet that your starter's dead. (like mine did).

Wish I could help you out more.

Keith P

I think the tach signal is actually coming from ecu (?).

The starter solenoid can click, but the actual contacts could be bad.

Have someone hold the ignition switch on while lightly hitting it the previously mentioned rubber mallet.

Also, batteries can show correct voltage, but the amp draw can be seriosly impeded by sulfite buildup on the positive plates. Can be made worse by adding tap water to the cells. Have each cell gravity tested.

Intel

iTrader: (2)

I also would say crank position sensor on my moms car(not a maxima but similar setup) it was very intermittant and did very similar things to what you said. It would not work but then an hour later crank up no problem. It would mostly not work in wet conditons or high humidity and once we fixed it the car worked just fine.

Big_Ham

iTrader: (1)

Did it. No go. I suspected the starter myself because I remember seeing the mororvate site before and reading he had problems. Thanks tho.

Weasel

iTrader: (2)

You've got PM...

Big_Ham

iTrader: (1)

Ignition switch was just replaced as they say it was going bad and thought that was the source of all of this. Not sure how you can tell it's going bad, but I'll leave that one alone ...

Haven't tried to jump it to be honest. I figured in the 5 trips to the dealer and the gambit of tests they ran through that they would have taken 5 minutes to check the battery and alternator, but I will check with them when I bring them the car tomorrow.

I'll also mention the neutral safety switch. Not sure they checked that or the crank angle sensor.

Intel: I'll mention CPS, but I think they checked that one.

KeithP: they actually suspect the ECU for good reason then, huh? Maybe I need to locate one ... anyone know how much for one at a junkyard?

Oh, and for all you battery comments, this is a 2 year old Optima yellow top battery. My last one lasted 6 years and 2 cars and was drained 20x more than this one. Not to say I won't check it out and make sure they tested it, but I would be shocked if that was the problem.

Thanks everyone for all your helpful comments, they are very much appreciated. Keep them coming, we need to keep these dealerships on their toes. ;-)

Big_Ham

iTrader: (1)

You do too ...

maximum810

Starter solenoid maybe?

Pappa Grande

Not sure either, but you should really check the Starter then battery then alternator. If you can rules those 3 out first.

rguida

iTrader: (1)

from what I am reading it looks like it is simply the battery....even though 12 volts is read...(like someone said earlier) your amperage can be very low....and not holding a charge.....batterys are fairly cheap....buy a new one and test it out, if its not eh problem then bring it back.....that definately sounds like it though.....



or possibly both alternator/batter???

Big_Ham

iTrader: (1)

Wound up being the starter. I think my biggest misconception is that I thought when a starter went bad, it went completely bad all at once and since this was a slow degradation of the starter, neither I nor the dealer thought it could be the starter. It finally took the car not starting to suspect the starter. I got LOTS of other work done in the interim, and after discussing with DaveB, it seems most of it was worthwhile doing and not really so much the fault of Nissan considering the symptoms.

Thank you EVERYONE very much for all of your help with this, know it's appreciated.

Gen8888

Big_ham what were your symptoms again? Did your car crank at all or was it just dead, no crank?

Big_Ham

iTrader: (1)

Problem started back in Oct-Nov 03. Car was basically having intermittent hard starts. As of Wednesday of this past week, it always started. It took that long to go from intermittent to plain ole' failing. Worse part of those 6 months has been the last month or more.