Removing gauge needles

markus876 · 04-09-2004, 07:47 PM

I'm currently trying to get the needles off of my stock '95 gauge cluster. I used the guide here to get the cluster itself out of my car, and have since unscrewed the speedo and tach assemblies.

My question now is how can I safely remove the actual needle from the assemblies? Is it as simple as just pulling it straight up, or will that damage it? Is it different for the speedo/tach?

*Jepht20* · 04-09-2004, 08:22 PM

DO NOT just pull them straight up, you'll break them that way.

to take off the needles, open the casing of the cluster, remove the clear plastic and black bezel exposing the gauges & needles. now, you'll need a pair of pliers(sp?), and a marker.

with your hands, rotate the needle clockwise and just move it up safely away from the peg stop at zero. just basically keep it around 50 or wherever so it doesn't get in your way. use the pliers to remove the peg stop. it just pops out basically, and if you break it, superglue can help.

after the peg stop has been removed, let the needle fall. it will go to zero and then past it some. gently, move the needle counter clockwise until you feel the slight pressure at around 6/7 o clock. now, with the marker, mark where that needle is pointing to somewhere at the bottum of the gauge or on the white plastic bezel so you have a reference (calibration) point. **THIS IS IMPORTANT TO DO, DON'T FORGET**

now, with more pressure, continue rotating the needle counter clockwise. you will feel some resistance. do this about 7 full times or however long it takes for your needle to come off/up. this whole time, you should be slightly pulling the needle up but not too hard, it will come up and off eventually. congrats, the hardest part is over!

putting back on...
i generally try to point the needle back at the reference point, but it's not vital when you simply slide it back on. once you push it down and on (not too hard!), the calibration point might have moved. so...rotate the needle counter clockwise again feeling the resistance. do this until you reach the point you marked before (the original calibration/reference point you marked with the marker). stop the needle once it gets there. that point allows the needle to know where to move when you're driving so it is important.

now, rotate the needle clockwise up until about 60 and let it fall just to make sure it's working/falling correctly; it should be fine. now, again rotate and hold the needle up high so you can put the peg stop back in. pop it in, let the needle fall, and you should be all set.

i hope these are clear, if you have any questions, feel free to ask.

Disclaimer, this is only a guide, this method works for me but since i'm not there personally, you take all responsibility if you mess up or damage things on your car. it should work for you this way, but that's for just in case.

markus876 · 04-09-2004, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jepht20

Awesome how-to

You rule. Thanks a ton!

*Jepht20* · 04-09-2004, 08:44 PM

you're welcome. that was from the top of my head but unlike my school work, that info stays up there pretty clear. i have a copy via email that i sent to someone i have saved if you need it explained slightly more elaborate. that's essentially it and should be more than enough for you. i gathered my info from a few posts people had and figured out the rest for myself until i got it right.

perhaps we should sticky it?

let me know if you have any trouble and goodluck!

markus876 · 04-09-2004, 08:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jepht20

you're welcome. that was from the top of my head but unlike my school work, that info stays up there pretty clear. i have a copy via email that i sent to someone i have saved if you need it explained slightly more elaborate. that's essentially it and should be more than enough for you. i gathered my info from a few posts people had and figured out the rest for myself until i got it right.

perhaps we should sticky it?

let me know if you have any trouble and goodluck!

It's just what I needed to hear. Popped the stop out with leatherman pliers and then marked + unscrewed. I'm going to see if I can't use ye olde protractor and figure out how to get my gauges calibrated to start straight down (vertical). If it seems to work, I'm going to make some new overlays that would have the correct measurements for the vertical orientation.

If all of the above works out well, I'll write up an integrated write-up, including your procedure if thats cool with you, and then I'll post that here.

Here goes...

*Jepht20* · 04-09-2004, 09:14 PM

cool idea, sort of like toyota celica gauges...

hopefully for you it works, you'd just need to be very accurate otherwise they could be significantly off which wouldn't be good. goodluck with your project and hope to see good results!