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How to remove your door panels - A quick reference
I searched around for a bit today, and was unable to locate a guide detailing how to remove 4th gen door panels (most likely similar for other years). This is useful when installing new speakers, fixing window switches, installing car alarms, etc.
This was done on my 95 GXE (5speed Cali if you really want to know) on 3/21/04 while it was snowing outside (Ohio weather is crazy).
First off, locate small tray pictured here:
Pop off that screw cover, then take the screw out.
You can take out the whole tray if you need to (useful for keeping track of screws), though not nessesary.
Next locate the two screws on the bottom of the door panel pictured here:
Take both of those off as well.
Locate your door light, pictured here:
There is a small conector that attaches to it, and I popped off the plastic cover (take a small flat head to either left or right side of it), and removed the two screws holding it in place. This allowed me to pull it out, giving easy access to the attached connector. Alternatively, you can probably reach your hand under the door after you have completed the next step.
Next, apply pressure all along the door panel, start at the bottom, then do the sides. There are several pop-screws that will pop out with a bit of force. Also, having the window down helps a bit with removing the whole door panel.
The last thing to remove is the doorlock/window switch connector, which can be a little stubborn, be gentle so as to not break it.
Removing this black piece may also be of some use in particular projects, it easiy pops out with a flathead, shown here:
To reinstall, just reverse the steps. Pop the black panel back in place (if you removed it). Reattach both connectors. Align the door panel on the window lip, then pop the tabs back into place. Attach the bottom two screws, then attact the center screw & tray, replace screw cover, and you are done!
pics aren't broken... well sorta, they're still there, just right click and goto properties and go right to pic... they just don't allow linking from other sites.. awesome tutorial thanks a million!
anyone know where to pic up the I30 door handles ive been looking on ebay and can only find the J30 seller says they will fit on maxima no problem but iwant the I30 any suggestions
<-- Noob. I've got a tall order. Recently an uninsured motorist hit me on my drivers side seriously damaging my front and rear exterior side panels. I bought this car just weeks ago and my insurance hasn't come through yet, so I'm on my own in bringing her back to her beautiful self. Does anyone know somebody who could hook me up with a guide to removing the panels, possibly taking off the door, and banging out as much of this damage as possible? I'd start a thread, (not in here) but I don't have enough posts yet.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Some helpful hints for those who, like me, may try to do things in a different order or struggle to get it off. I did 4, 5, and then 3 of Caesar's post above. Then I removed and unscrewed the courtesy light in the door, a necessary step to get enough room to maneuver.
At that point, I could then lay on the ground and peer up and see how to get the door release thingy to pop out. It was much easier and less prone to damage to release it from the inside of the door.
Since I was doing the driver's side door, I also had the trunk popper button in the arm rest to deal with. I skipped #2 and instead just removed the wiring harnass from the back side of the trunk popper button. It was possible to leave the window controls connected and move the panel out of the way for what I needed to get at, but it could also be disconnected if necessary.
The "pop out" door handle cup does not pop out very easily, and if you force it you will break it in half.
Pry it gently forward and you will see the top clip point, toward the front of the car. Gently pry up on the clip with a small flat-tipped screwdriver while prying the cup away from the door with a wide-blade flat tip screwdriver, and it will come out nicely.
After I broke the first one and saw what was going on, the 2nd door was easy. 8-(
New Infinity Reference speakers sound a lot better than the stock non-bose paper cone speakers.
__________________
Two "new" 4th gen Maximas
1996 with 161,000 miles
1997 with 95,000 miles
*new* 2003 Altima 3.5 SE with 115,000 miles
(this car is built no where near as well as the Maximas)
Good info! Both of my back windows need help. The drivers side motor runs but the window only shifts slightly and the passenger side has no power at all (lock or window).
__________________
1990 Infiniti Q45 - Sold
1996 Lexus LS 400 - Sold
1996 Nissan Maxima SE 5MT - Proud owner
The "pop out" door handle cup does not pop out very easily, and if you force it you will break it in half.
Pry it gently forward and you will see the top clip point, toward the front of the car. Gently pry up on the clip with a small flat-tipped screwdriver while prying the cup away from the door with a wide-blade flat tip screwdriver, and it will come out nicely.
After I broke the first one and saw what was going on, the 2nd door was easy. 8-(
New Infinity Reference speakers sound a lot better than the stock non-bose paper cone speakers.
Ever A32 I've ever removed the door panel, the handle pulled right out
And 2 year old thread FTL.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
old thread, but he's right, those MFing handles are really hard to get out, and you have to give just the right amount of force, otherwise you'll break it.
__________________ 1996 Maxima GXE "My boy blue"
TS ECU|RSB|FSTB|Leather/Heated Seats|12"sub-Alpines-Rainbow SLCs-Audison SRx2|Spoiler|5.5 Gen 17's|Custom Red Clears|Viper 771|R34 TSX Retro|5th gen muffler|300zx Fuel filter
Quote:
Originally Posted by pmohr
Oh I'll show you a dingy. A reaaaaaaaaaaal small one.
yeah, old thread, but i've always popped the lil' cover over the screw in the bottom of the door pull/cup, removed the screw and just lifted the cup out of the door (#3 above). the window switch holder, i leave in place and just unplug it once the panel is off. no need to fight with pulling it out of the panel unless replacing that part. biggest fight is bezel around door handle...still it's only a few seconds to remove. with the panel off you can push the switch hoder out from below easier by pressing the clips to release.
just my.02
Jeez pmohr, it's not like I resurrected an old thread, it's a STICKY and it never moves. I read it thoroughly before I removed the panel and NO ONE mentioned anything specific about the door-handle cup, other than "pop it out".
Well I can testify that if you just stick a screwdriver behind it and pry, you will break off the bezel if you do not unclip it first, depending on where the screwdriver makes contact with the cup.
But it's easy if you look for the clip on the door panel and pry it up a bit. BTW, there's a clip on the top and one on the bottom, but you only have to unclip one and it slides right out.
Nitromax, you are talking about the cup in the armrest. I am talking about the trim plate behind the actual door handle/lock, yes, the bezel you called it.
One other thing, I did not have to remove any of the P/W switches before removing the panel. You can unclip the connections on the back of the panel after you remove it from the door, and leave all the switches in place. That works for the trunk release, the drivers P/W switches, and the passenger P/W switch.
__________________
Two "new" 4th gen Maximas
1996 with 161,000 miles
1997 with 95,000 miles
*new* 2003 Altima 3.5 SE with 115,000 miles
(this car is built no where near as well as the Maximas)
Last edited by trooplewis; 03-29-2009 at 09:51 PM.
Jeez pmohr, it's not like I resurrected an old thread, it's a STICKY and it never moves. I read it thoroughly before I removed the panel and NO ONE mentioned anything specific about the door-handle cup, other than "pop it out".
Well I can testify that if you just stick a screwdriver behind it and pry, you will break off the bezel if you do not unclip it first, depending on where the screwdriver makes contact with the cup.
But it's easy if you look for the clip on the door panel and pry it up a bit. BTW, there's a clip on the top and one on the bottom, but you only have to unclip one and it slides right out.
It's not a sticky, it's in the stickies. Bit of a difference.
FWIW you did resurrect an old thread, the post before yours was in '07. And calm down, it's not like I raged on you for bumping it.
Indeed, if you go shoving screwdrivers everywhere, you're going to start breaking stuff, especially small trim pieces. Personally I don't even use tools, I just pull it off, and they always come right off for me.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
OK, I see that I did indeed bring it back to life...sorry bout that.
__________________
Two "new" 4th gen Maximas
1996 with 161,000 miles
1997 with 95,000 miles
*new* 2003 Altima 3.5 SE with 115,000 miles
(this car is built no where near as well as the Maximas)
I hated getting those stupid handle trims out. Never got easier. That was literally the hardest part of mounting my crossovers to my door panels... Everything else was a breeze :-(.
__________________
1987 Celebrity gone (140.2)
1998 Nissan Maxima Se (138.0) @35hz
jbl 1100.1
jbl 300.4
Inhuman 15
Why does the dude who made the thread 5 years ago remove the black mirror piece? Not necessary. Neither is the light piece, just unclip the connector. To plug it back in, use needle nose pliers.
Using this means the plastic clips and the spots they lock into never break.
Of course I've done alot of interiors so it may not be required for the one off interior job.
Looks like it would work, but it's just another Fing tool to buy
__________________ 1996 Maxima GXE "My boy blue"
TS ECU|RSB|FSTB|Leather/Heated Seats|12"sub-Alpines-Rainbow SLCs-Audison SRx2|Spoiler|5.5 Gen 17's|Custom Red Clears|Viper 771|R34 TSX Retro|5th gen muffler|300zx Fuel filter
Quote:
Originally Posted by pmohr
Oh I'll show you a dingy. A reaaaaaaaaaaal small one.
I just replaced my door speakers yesterday, and had a couple of things to add to this.
1) The door handle cup- really a PITA. Push the cup towards the front of the car, and pull out the back side. Now, you have 1 of 3 clips released. The next two oppose one another about 80% of the way towards the front of the cup, 1/4 inch back from the face of the cup on both the top and bottom. I used a small screwdriver and pried the black clip up to release the top. Once the top is released it comes right out.
2) I didn't need to remove the door light to change the speakers. Found out by forgetting to remove it...
3) GET THAT PANEL TOOL! With both doors I found that the lower two clips come out, but the upper two, broke right off, and stayed in the door (not the panel). I didn't think much of it initially, but now noise is coming through the top of the door panel where it's not held tightly to the glass anymore... :-(
At least I planned to go back and soundproof it.