Camber adjustment after drop
09-23-2003, 08:18 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 89
Camber adjustment after drop
After I dropped the car and got new 17" wheels and tires,
and before I did an alignment (toe-in), I could see that
the camber was way off on one side. When I put in the
Maxspeed springs I moved the tops of the steering knuckles
out as far as they would go before tightening the bolts
to the struts, so I knew there was no more adjustment
available with the things the way they were. What to do?
Camber bolt? Plates? No, just file out the strut mounting
holes to allow the steering knuckle enough play to get
the camber within spec. Simple and effective as well as
safe as not much material has to be filed to elongate the
bolt holes. Just make sure the bolts are good and tight.
In another thread I explained how I did my own toe-in
adjustment. I also had a shop do an alignment so I could
be sure my method works OK. I believe it does. However,
the shop said that they could not get the camber on the
side I did not adjust to within spec. I have now fixed
that side as well. With the toe-in set by the shop, the
car pulled slightly to the right. They said it was due
to the camber being different on right and left side.
After I corrected the side I hadn't done previously,
there is no more pulling.
So, camber adjustment beyond what is normally available
without the use of special plates or bolts.
I noticed that this small camber adjustment caused a large
change of toe-in, so that had to be reset.
and before I did an alignment (toe-in), I could see that
the camber was way off on one side. When I put in the
Maxspeed springs I moved the tops of the steering knuckles
out as far as they would go before tightening the bolts
to the struts, so I knew there was no more adjustment
available with the things the way they were. What to do?
Camber bolt? Plates? No, just file out the strut mounting
holes to allow the steering knuckle enough play to get
the camber within spec. Simple and effective as well as
safe as not much material has to be filed to elongate the
bolt holes. Just make sure the bolts are good and tight.
In another thread I explained how I did my own toe-in
adjustment. I also had a shop do an alignment so I could
be sure my method works OK. I believe it does. However,
the shop said that they could not get the camber on the
side I did not adjust to within spec. I have now fixed
that side as well. With the toe-in set by the shop, the
car pulled slightly to the right. They said it was due
to the camber being different on right and left side.
After I corrected the side I hadn't done previously,
there is no more pulling.
So, camber adjustment beyond what is normally available
without the use of special plates or bolts.
I noticed that this small camber adjustment caused a large
change of toe-in, so that had to be reset.
09-25-2003, 04:40 AM
#4
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
Filing that hole is an excellent idea. Tell the shop that does your alignment that there is room for them to adjust your camber when you have your car aligned.
Set your toe yourself, then spend the 50 bucks to have a shop verify what you've done. If they have to move the knuckle to get camber corrected, your toe setting is going to be out again anyhow.
Set your toe yourself, then spend the 50 bucks to have a shop verify what you've done. If they have to move the knuckle to get camber corrected, your toe setting is going to be out again anyhow.
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