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Old 07-14-2003, 06:15 PM   #1
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Micro-second pauses in acceleration - Going through HELL!

I got 55K on my 5-spd 99 SE-L. Changed the spark plugs today, checked the fuel injectors (which are in perfect condition), checked throttle body (perfectly clean) and I still experience micro-second pauses in acceleration...especially in the 3.5 to 6 RPM range. Any suggestions? I have no check engine light on and it's been happening for well over 4 months. Change my oil regularly, put only premium gas in etc. etc. What can be wrong? Max is all stock...except for a K&N cone filter. This is really ****ing me off now. I can't even race a stock accord because this **** slows me down. I seems as though the car chokes or something. I was thinking of a somewhat defective fuel pump but somebody told me if it was that, then I would experience a much bigger and noticable problem. Lastly, as suggested by others, the car does NOT burn more fuel then it ever did before.

HELP ME!
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Old 07-14-2003, 06:21 PM   #2
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Re: Micro-second pauses in acceleration - Going through HELL!

Quote:
Originally posted by I H8 COPS
I still experience micro-second pauses in acceleration...especially in the 3.5 to 6 RPM range. Any suggestions?
How, exactly, do you experience these pauses? Is it felt, or do you notice it on your speedometer? I noticed that my speedometer slows down sporadically between 55 and 60 mph.
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Old 07-14-2003, 06:28 PM   #3
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Does it feel like it's in sync with engine speed or is it more random?
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Old 07-14-2003, 07:00 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally posted by drewm
Does it feel like it's in sync with engine speed or is it more random?
It is quite random...however...it happens mostly between the 3 and 6 RPM range. The pauses are very noticeable...by that I mean i feel the pauses myself. Imagine you max accelerating all good and all of the sudden just choking (pause sort of thing...i don't know exactly how to describe it) during which it does not accelerate and lasts only like a 1/3 or 1/4 of a second...very very fast. And than it still accelerates and it happens again. On average when between the 3 and 6 RPM I will only experience like 2 pauses or so, regardless of what gear i'm in (that is why I emphasize RPM here instead of speed e.g. 50 or 60mph...NO) It feels like the fuel is being cut off somehow during that split second. It only happens, however, when I accelerate hard. If I were to accelerate in first from 1 to 6 rpm with an average or below average intensity...the microsecond pauses do not occur.
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Old 07-14-2003, 07:02 PM   #5
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Change your fuel filter. Check your ECU for the 0304 knock sensor code. Wrap the boots of your ignition coils in a layer of electrical tape, they may be shorting to the valve cover.
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Old 07-14-2003, 07:15 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by mzmtg
Change your fuel filter. Check your ECU for the 0304 knock sensor code. Wrap the boots of your ignition coils in a layer of electrical tape, they may be shorting to the valve cover.
You say to check the ECU for 0304 but it's been 4 months and the ECU did not throw a check engine light on even once. Also, where are the boots of my iginition coils located? R u saying that the stock rap sucks?
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Old 07-14-2003, 08:01 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by I H8 COPS


You say to check the ECU for 0304 but it's been 4 months and the ECU did not throw a check engine light on even once. Also, where are the boots of my iginition coils located? R u saying that the stock rap sucks?
The knock sensor code is a "ghost code" it will not cause the check engine light to come on. Check anyway.

Each ignition coil is attached to each spark plug with a long rubber connector, or "boot." Sometimes the rubber of the boot will deteriorate. This can cause the spark energy to short circuit to the valve cover instead of reaching the spark plug. Removing the coils and wrapping the boots with a layer of electrical tape can solve this problem, or at least rule it out as an issue.
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Old 07-14-2003, 09:16 PM   #8
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Check the Mass Air Flow sensor. If you recently put in a K&N cone filter, an excessive film of oil may have fouled the MAF heater element. If that is the case, it would cost near $400 to replace it. Install is a "do-it-yourself" item.

I doubt it would be the knock sensor. A knock detection would reduce the power but it wouldn't result in pulsating power as you describe.

The fuel injectors and filter could also be a likely cause. An electrical issue or clogging could cause the issue you describe.
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Old 07-14-2003, 09:24 PM   #9
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I have the same problem ,changed spark plugs ,knock sensor, fuel filter.still hesitates
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Old 07-15-2003, 12:54 AM   #10
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What kind of spark plugs are you using? If they aren't NGKs that's your problem right there.
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Old 07-15-2003, 03:24 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by drewm
What kind of spark plugs are you using? If they aren't NGKs that's your problem right there.
Nope...I'm using the NGK's. I always go with the originals.

Quote:
Originally posted by chris j vurnis
Check the Mass Air Flow sensor. If you recently put in a K&N cone filter, an excessive film of oil may have fouled the MAF heater element. If that is the case, it would cost near $400 to replace it. Install is a "do-it-yourself" item.
And about the K&N cone filter oil getting on the MAF heater element...how can I check if that is the case? Where is this element anyway?
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Old 07-15-2003, 06:35 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by I H8 COPS
And about the K&N cone filter oil getting on the MAF heater element...how can I check if that is the case? Where is this element anyway?

If you remove the MAF and look into it, you can see the sensing element. It's a couple of small wires in a little hole, right in the middle.

You can try cleaning the MAF by gently rinsing the element with rubbing alcohol.

Also, check the ground connection to the MAF as described here:
Do Hids Have High/ Low Beam ??
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Old 07-15-2003, 09:58 AM   #13
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I have had this same problem for about 4 months as well. I have a 99 se 5 speed. I noticed the problem before I put on my intake on. I thought it was bad gas but with the intake on you can hear it make a popping sound. It is only at about 3500 - 6 and only at WOT. It happens randomly. I talked to my mechanic and he said that it is one of my coil packs going. If you keep on the throttle while it is doing this hesitation the check engine light will blink but not stay on and the ECU doesn't store a code. I red a post a while ago from some who had the same problem and they eventually just gave in and bought 6 coil packs and the problem went away.
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Old 07-15-2003, 10:18 AM   #14
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I agree, it's a misfire probably do to a coil pack.
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Old 07-15-2003, 11:53 AM   #15
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The thing that really sucks is that it won't do it while reving the motor so you couldn't check voltage on the coil pack. It only does it while the car is moving. I think mine is about to go so then I will know which one. From my research, apparently with 99's it will more then likely be coil pack 2. That is apparently the one that fails.

If anyone knows a way I can figure out which coil pack it is I would appreciate it.

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Old 07-15-2003, 12:39 PM   #16
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Unplug the knock sensor harness just forward of the TB and plug a 470k resistor across the terminals (so that the computer sees the resistor). If your hesistation is gone then the problem is narrowed to the kncok sensor circuit. if the hesitation is still rpesent then the knock sensor circuit is eliminated.

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Old 07-15-2003, 01:36 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by slop00
The thing that really sucks is that it won't do it while reving the motor so you couldn't check voltage on the coil pack. It only does it while the car is moving. I think mine is about to go so then I will know which one. From my research, apparently with 99's it will more then likely be coil pack 2. That is apparently the one that fails.

If anyone knows a way I can figure out which coil pack it is I would appreciate it.

Slop
Those coil packs...is that the long rubber thing on top of the spark plug? Should I replace them all? If so...how much are these? Also...how can the coil packs go bad...I mean they look OK to me.
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Old 07-15-2003, 03:29 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by slop00
The thing that really sucks is that it won't do it while reving the motor so you couldn't check voltage on the coil pack. It only does it while the car is moving. I think mine is about to go so then I will know which one. From my research, apparently with 99's it will more then likely be coil pack 2. That is apparently the one that fails.

If anyone knows a way I can figure out which coil pack it is I would appreciate it.

Slop
Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't it make sense to buy one coil pack and test it out by replacing each of the 6 sequentially and having a test drive after each replacement? Then we could see which one is bad or which one is good by process of elimination. Saves us 5/6 of the price for all...right?
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Old 07-15-2003, 03:55 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by slop00
The thing that really sucks is that it won't do it while reving the motor so you couldn't check voltage on the coil pack. It only does it while the car is moving. I think mine is about to go so then I will know which one. From my research, apparently with 99's it will more then likely be coil pack 2. That is apparently the one that fails.

If anyone knows a way I can figure out which coil pack it is I would appreciate it.

Slop
That's amazing.... that it always happens to be the #2 coil, because that's the one on my 99 that went out also.

For the orig poster, it's here:

1 3 5
2 4 6
front of car

I'd definately try to swap that one out with a new one first.

Also, the front bank and rear bank coils are different, so you can't swap between front and rear.
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Old 07-15-2003, 06:34 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by drewm


That's amazing.... that it always happens to be the #2 coil, because that's the one on my 99 that went out also.

For the orig poster, it's here:

1 3 5
2 4 6
front of car

I'd definately try to swap that one out with a new one first.

Also, the front bank and rear bank coils are different, so you can't swap between front and rear.
Thanks...that really helps! I'll start with # 2.
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Old 07-15-2003, 09:38 PM   #21
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hmm

I just thought of something...what if I wrap the defective ignition coil in electric tape? You think that might temporarily help dipict the defective coil? Or will electric tape do nothing to prevent say a misfire that is already happening?
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Old 07-15-2003, 10:27 PM   #22
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Re: hmm

Quote:
Originally posted by I H8 COPS
I just thought of something...what if I wrap the defective ignition coil in electric tape? You think that might temporarily help dipict the defective coil? Or will electric tape do nothing to prevent say a misfire that is already happening?

Quote:
Originally posted by mzmtg

Each ignition coil is attached to each spark plug with a long rubber connector, or "boot." Sometimes the rubber of the boot will deteriorate. This can cause the spark energy to short circuit to the valve cover instead of reaching the spark plug. Removing the coils and wrapping the boots with a layer of electrical tape can solve this problem, or at least rule it out as an issue.
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Old 07-16-2003, 03:11 PM   #23
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WOW

wrapped ignition coil #2 with electric tape today. Wrapped it all around...very nicely with lots of layers etc. All I have to say now is W O W ! It freakin worked! My pauses stopped! It's very weird because when I took the ignition coil #2 out (the one most people told me will most likely be defective for some odd reason) the rubber and everything on the coil seemed perfectly normal. I did not see any deteriorating rubber or anything of that sort. I guess it somehow misfired even though you could not see any defects with a naked eye. AMAZING!

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Old 07-16-2003, 08:06 PM   #24
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In the last 2-3 weeks I think I had what you are talking about happen to me in my 96 SE 5spd. It kind of feels like you hit a very small patch of ice. I know that sounds weird but that's the closest thing I can think of that feels like this hesitation. It only seems to do this on WOT like mentioned before on my max too. Let us know if you do anything to try to correct it and if it works or not.
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Old 07-16-2003, 09:29 PM   #25
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I have the same hesitation issue right now. You get on the gas and you start accelerating, but then there is this momentary lag for just an instant, and then you're back to accelerating again, right? If so, I'm getting this from lower RPM's also, not just above 3k.

Coil #6 went bad awhile ago. Replaced. Hesitation still there occasionally. Knock sensor is now bad. Bypassed temporarily with 470k resistor. Hesitation still there. More frequently. Tracked timing on OBD-II logger while driving. Lag does not follow timing advance/retard (thought it might have been related to the knock sensor), so it's not that.

I'll try this Coil #2 trick with wrapping the boot.


While I'm ordering my knock sensor, I think I'll probably order another a front and a rear coil for not if but WHEN I need them, and some other stuff too.
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