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I ocassionally have to "jiggle" the key in the ignition switch a little to get the car to start though it usually starts right up I don't want to wait until the situation progresses to a "non-start".
I got a "free/courtesy" check up at the dealer today and was told I need to replace the electrical portion of the ignition switch (PART#48750-1E411) . Anyone know how to replace this or have a link to a step-by-step on the subject?
Originally posted by fflan513 I ocassionally have to "jiggle" the key in the ignition switch a little to get the car to start though it usually starts right up I don't want to wait until the situation progresses to a "non-start".
I got a "free/courtesy" check up at the dealer today and was told I need to replace the electrical portion of the ignition switch (PART#48750-1E411) . Anyone know how to replace this or have a link to a step-by-step on the subject?
thx in advance for your help.
All you do is remove the cover plate around the steering wheel column. It is held on by 4 phillips type screws. You will need a long screwdriver to access these. Once the cover is removed, the ignition switch is on the left side of the steering wheel (opposite side of the cylinder switch). Disconnect plug harness and all connectors. Remove two outer screws on switch ( the ones with no wires attached to them). Slide switch out and replace with new one. Your done.
Thanks, I love it when it's a do-it-yourselfer. Sounds simple enough; I'll change it out tomorrow and post back.
Again thx.
Quote:
Originally posted by MIXXMAX All you do is remove the cover plate around the steering wheel column. It is held on by 4 phillips type screws. You will need a long screwdriver to access these. Once the cover is removed, the ignition switch is on the left side of the steering wheel (opposite side of the cylinder switch). Disconnect plug harness and all connectors. Remove two outer screws on switch ( the ones with no wires attached to them). Slide switch out and replace with new one. Your done.
Well, I replaced the ignition switch, it took about 40 minutes total; taking off the old one and doing the replacement. The car starts on every crank now.
One little detail, there are 6 phillips type screws and you need to remove a bracket under the steering column to remove the last two screws but that was no real trouble.
Thanks so much for your help. I'm very pleased the job is done and saved some "dealer" cash.
Below is a picture of the old switch (FYI):
Quote:
Originally posted by MIXXMAX All you do is remove the cover plate around the steering wheel column. It is held on by 4 phillips type screws. You will need a long screwdriver to access these. Once the cover is removed, the ignition switch is on the left side of the steering wheel (opposite side of the cylinder switch). Disconnect plug harness and all connectors. Remove two outer screws on switch ( the ones with no wires attached to them). Slide switch out and replace with new one. Your done.
Originally posted by fflan513 Well, I replaced the ignition switch, it took about 40 minutes total; taking off the old one and doing the replacement. The car starts on every crank now.
One little detail, there are 6 phillips type screws and you need to remove a bracket under the steering column to remove the last two screws but that was no real trouble.
Thanks so much for your help. I'm very pleased the job is done and saved some "dealer" cash.
Excellent posts. I might try this real soon, my switch is failing too. Thanx MIXXMAX. Anybody got pics? I just feel better if pics go along with the explanation...
__________________ Umm.... Metallica Rules... Say YES to deodorant ... and if you can roll you're eyes like this you must be a genious Maxima '96 Leather, Sunroof, Auto-Air. From Juarez, Mexico
Does this require a new key? My max does not start on the first try anymore, I have to do it at a certain angle. I think a new ignition switch should fix it, but I don't want to have another key.
Thanks for the advice and tips above. I just did mine in about 40 minutes. I noticed that I had to turn the key all the way firmly until it stopped before the car would start. I suspect it would have eventually stopped working altogether. Now the key works much better.
One more bit of advice that I found in my car... In addition to the metal bracket under the steering column, I had to remove the plastic cover underneath the dashboard around the fuse box (two more screws). This gave me access to the two screws holding the metal bracket.
Thanks to this thread I did not get raped by dealership. Towed the car to dealer parking area, bought the part for $35, installed it within an hour. Superb instruction, although I was very thankful I had the KYB AGX small flathead screwdriver. Without that, I would have not been able to take the assy off the cylinder block.
I spent more time putting everything together rather than taking them apart.
I really got to do this THANK YOU for starting this thread fflan513 I thought i was going crazy because i changed the starter and still the car has the similiar problem everyone here is having once it does'nt turnover the first time i kinda have to leave the key on ACC for a few secs then turn it again then it starts and the weird thing is that it dones that most of the time when the car is in the heat so I park it in the shade then everything is somewhat better
Huh!!! North Side I use to live on Broadway and Irving Pk I know where Kimball/Lawrence is when you buy the part let me know too and I buy it with you too. then we can install it
Thanks for the advice and tips above. I just did mine in about 40 minutes. I noticed that I had to turn the key all the way firmly until it stopped before the car would start. I suspect it would have eventually stopped working altogether. Now the key works much better.
One more bit of advice that I found in my car... In addition to the metal bracket under the steering column, I had to remove the plastic cover underneath the dashboard around the fuse box (two more screws). This gave me access to the two screws holding the metal bracket.
my 96 failed completely.....but for some reason i had to replace the whole cylinder....i think maybe i got robbed
Where are the moderators???? This guy should have been banned after his first reply when he first joined this forum! I'm totally in awe with his behavior and ruthless antics on someone else's thread!!!!! I believe he's broken every rule at least twice...????????
BTW, just for the record, changing this switch gave me back at least 10 lb-ft. The reason I said this because, whenever I drive my gf's max, her SE would accelerate in 4th gear even though the rpm stays almost constant (try 60mph in full locked, i.e. 5th gear, and then try to depress the pedal enough to make the tranny downshift to 4th).
However, it apparently still kept its "symptom", which makes the car unable to start. A quick remedy by pressing the brake and running the auto stick through all selections (PRND21) still works, so I believe there's another switch that connects the ignition to tranny lever position sensor that's loose or start to fail.
That would have to wait for another day. In the mean time, I am enjoying my "new" Maxima. Boy oh boy, now I could drive it properly. It's a strange thing to note that I could feel the extra "oomph" in this car when I upgrade its electrical stuff. First it was the alternator and now this. I have Y and UDP, but now the car IS faster.
Found it at everythingnissan.com, and yes, it was $55.46. I wonder what this switch looks like...... $55 is pretty pricey (I know....everything being relative), but I will investigate this with my Haynes manual.
Thanks for your pointer though, it was really helpful. Mine is 97 GXE Auto, but it should all be the same for all years.
Would a faulty neutral safety switch restrict me from actually turning the key? I sometimes have to jiggle/move the wheel to get the key to actually go from the off to any other position.
Would a faulty neutral safety switch restrict me from actually turning the key? I sometimes have to jiggle/move the wheel to get the key to actually go from the off to any other position.
No, I don't think so. If you lock the wheel when it's off, you have to joggle the wheel to turn the key on.
Yes, I have been 'joggling' the wheel when this happens, but each time its becoming more of a pain in the @ss, taking longer to get the key to turn.. my friends can't even start my car ne more, like trying to hit its' damn g-spot
Yes, I have been 'joggling' the wheel when this happens, but each time its becoming more of a pain in the @ss, taking longer to get the key to turn.. my friends can't even start my car ne more, like trying to hit its' damn g-spot
G-spot ey.... step away from the vehicle
If you lock the steering wheel before you put the key in to start the car, you'll have to turn the wheel a little before the key turns.
Unfortunately that's how the cars were designed. This has nothing to do with your neutral switch. All of our cars do this.
Does anyone have a step-by-step writeup of the ignition switch replacement with photos? I'd like to have one to go by. If there isn't one, I'll make it as I go along and post it online somewhere.
My ignition switch is getting to the point where I have to turn it to "start" and then pull up on the key to get it to start. Then it fires right up.
As for the neutral safety switch - the point of this switch is so that you can only start the car in neutral or in park. When the car is in R, D, 2, or 1, it should not be able to start. If the car was in gear while you started it, the car might move and potentially cause an accident or run over a little kid or something. A buddy of mine had a POS '91 Firebird (3.1L V6 Automatic) that (among other more serious problems) only started in reverse, so you had to be extra careful...
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1996 Maxima GXE, Retired at 240k after rear ended
2005 Ford Focus ST
1972 Ford F100 LWB Custom
gah, I know damm well about the wheel lock, and how it works. Its not acting normal, taking much more effort/jiggling to turn the key. Hard to explain over the net
Does anyone have a step-by-step writeup of the ignition switch replacement with photos? I'd like to have one to go by. If there isn't one, I'll make it as I go along and post it online somewhere.
My ignition switch is getting to the point where I have to turn it to "start" and then pull up on the key to get it to start. Then it fires right up.
Its really easy to change the switch. Its not something that can really be written up. Its like changing a tire. Once you do it you're surprised how easy it is. Just need a phillips screwdriver and a 10mm socket.
Does anyone have a step-by-step writeup of the ignition switch replacement with photos? I'd like to have one to go by. If there isn't one, I'll make it as I go along and post it online somewhere.
My ignition switch is getting to the point where I have to turn it to "start" and then pull up on the key to get it to start. Then it fires right up.
As for the neutral safety switch - the point of this switch is so that you can only start the car in neutral or in park. When the car is in R, D, 2, or 1, it should not be able to start. If the car was in gear while you started it, the car might move and potentially cause an accident or run over a little kid or something. A buddy of mine had a POS '91 Firebird (3.1L V6 Automatic) that (among other more serious problems) only started in reverse, so you had to be extra careful...
It sounds like your problem is with the key cylinder, not the ignition switch. The ignitions switch is only a contact-like switch for different points on the key cylinder switch (acc,on, start, etc.) while turning the key. You might want to look into this if you have to lift up on the key in order to start. Or, maybe, even better yet, get a multi-meter and check the voltage across the contacts of the ignition switch while turning the key at all points of the key cylinder. Also, check to see if the contacts are even good around the ignition switch.
It sounds like your problem is with the key cylinder, not the ignition switch. The ignitions switch is only a contact-like switch for different points on the key cylinder switch (acc,on, start, etc.) while turning the key. You might want to look into this if you have to lift up on the key in order to start. Or, maybe, even better yet, get a multi-meter and check the voltage across the contacts of the ignition switch while turning the key at all points of the key cylinder. Also, check to see if the contacts are even good around the ignition switch.
Crap, if it's the key cylinder, that means I need a new key, right? I'd also presume that that's a dealer part?
Before I jump to conclusions I'm going to have to test everything, as you suggested. I'll have to save that project for next weekend...
Say YES to deodorant 
... and if you can roll you're eyes like this you must be a genious 
Maxima '96 Leather, Sunroof, Auto-Air. From Juarez, Mexico
I'd also presume that that's a dealer part? 
Linear Mode
