How do I change ignition switch?
09-25-2005, 10:19 AM
#41
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Morristown, NJ
Posts: 173
I was installing my ignition switch today. I installed the new one but I think I grounded the switch by accident. The car does not even turn on at all. I reinstalled the old one and the same thing. I then checked each of the fuses. They are all good. Now I have a car that doesn't start. What did I do?? Am I screwed??? Any help would be appreciated!
09-25-2005, 10:24 AM
#42
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,207
Originally Posted by maxima_million
I was installing my ignition switch today. I installed the new one but I think I grounded the switch by accident. The car does not even turn on at all. I reinstalled the old one and the same thing. I then checked each of the fuses. They are all good. Now I have a car that doesn't start. What did I do?? Am I screwed??? Any help would be appreciated!
That sucks. You might be screwed because you burnt some fuse or wire somewhere. Before you go nuts check each and every fuse under the dash and under the hood.
Using a 12 volt test light check the harness where the ignition switch plugs into. The one corresponding to the white wire with a red stripe (might be different) should be constant 12 volts. If its not 12 volts then you have to figure out why this wire is not getting the juice it needs. Probably a bad fusible link.
Its a major problem if you cant find the short. Hopefully its just a fuse and you'll be on your way shortly.
Make sure your battery is good. The car is in park or neutral. And hope for the best
09-25-2005, 10:47 AM
#43
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Morristown, NJ
Posts: 173
Thanks PAREDLINE!! Well, I checked all of the fuses 2x and none of them seem blown. I have a small Analog multimeter but I don't even know how to use it.
If anyone could help either via aol-IM (anderma8) or phone, I'll call you or give you my #. I think I may be screwed!
If anyone could help either via aol-IM (anderma8) or phone, I'll call you or give you my #. I think I may be screwed!
10-01-2005, 03:52 PM
#44
over the last month or two, my ignition switch fuse has been blowing every few days. it stopped for almost 2 weeks and this morning it would blow the fuse every time i tried to start, so i can not start the car at all. could it be possible that i just need to replace the ignition switch itself? i replaced my starter 6 months ago so i am confident its not that
10-16-2005, 12:34 PM
#45
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chapel Hill, NC 27514
Posts: 398
Just changed my ignition switch, decided to take some pics since there are a few steps:
1) Remove two Phillips-head screws on lower left and right corners of panel below steering wheel. The top parts of the cover snap into slots in the dash, so you have to pull carefully on each edge to pop these clips out of the slots in the dash. (I think there are 4 of them.) It may help to take off the fuse cover at this point so you can sneak your hand in behind the panel and push it off vs. pulling.
2) Remove the 2-pin wire to the flasher unit.
3) Remove the metal brace below the steering wheel (two 10mm bolts)
4) You can now get to all 6 Phillips-head screws that hold the bottom half of the cover around the steering column to the upper half. When you remove these 6 screws, the cover around the ignition switch will fall out, you can snap this back in after you put the two halves back together.
1) Remove two Phillips-head screws on lower left and right corners of panel below steering wheel. The top parts of the cover snap into slots in the dash, so you have to pull carefully on each edge to pop these clips out of the slots in the dash. (I think there are 4 of them.) It may help to take off the fuse cover at this point so you can sneak your hand in behind the panel and push it off vs. pulling.
2) Remove the 2-pin wire to the flasher unit.
3) Remove the metal brace below the steering wheel (two 10mm bolts)
4) You can now get to all 6 Phillips-head screws that hold the bottom half of the cover around the steering column to the upper half. When you remove these 6 screws, the cover around the ignition switch will fall out, you can snap this back in after you put the two halves back together.
10-16-2005, 12:37 PM
#46
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chapel Hill, NC 27514
Posts: 398
5) Unscrew all 6 screws. You will need a relatively long screwdriver to get to 4 of them.
6) Once you take the lower half of the cover off, you can now get to the ignition switch assembly and harness (upper right to lower left).
There are two small Phillips-head screws that hold the ignition switch into the aluminum switch casing. You will need a fairly small screwdriver to remove these. The front one is fairly easy to get out but the rear one is a PITA because access is blocked by the dash. A right-angle screwdriver works well here if you have one, or use a screwdriver bit held by a pair of pliers. Either way, PITA.
7) Once you have removed the two small screws, remove the switch and unplug from the other end of the harness. My switch came with the fastener on the connector end that snaps into the metal brace under the steering column, so I removed the old one with a pair of pliers and snapped the new one into the hole, then plugged the harness together.
8) Reverse the steps 5-1 to re-assemble. The lower half of the steering column cover is a little tricky to get back on as it has fingers that snap over the steering shaft itself, along with keeping all the wires in the right places so they don't get pinched and aligning the top & bottom halves together. Once you've got everything realigned and you're sure you're not pinching any wires, you can put the 6 screws back in from the bottom side. Then snap the cover back over the ignition switch on the right side.
I found that I had a ProLock system spliced into my starter wire, but decided to leave it out and just install the stock ignition switch harness. I never even new it was there. Anyone want it?
6) Once you take the lower half of the cover off, you can now get to the ignition switch assembly and harness (upper right to lower left).
There are two small Phillips-head screws that hold the ignition switch into the aluminum switch casing. You will need a fairly small screwdriver to remove these. The front one is fairly easy to get out but the rear one is a PITA because access is blocked by the dash. A right-angle screwdriver works well here if you have one, or use a screwdriver bit held by a pair of pliers. Either way, PITA.
7) Once you have removed the two small screws, remove the switch and unplug from the other end of the harness. My switch came with the fastener on the connector end that snaps into the metal brace under the steering column, so I removed the old one with a pair of pliers and snapped the new one into the hole, then plugged the harness together.
8) Reverse the steps 5-1 to re-assemble. The lower half of the steering column cover is a little tricky to get back on as it has fingers that snap over the steering shaft itself, along with keeping all the wires in the right places so they don't get pinched and aligning the top & bottom halves together. Once you've got everything realigned and you're sure you're not pinching any wires, you can put the 6 screws back in from the bottom side. Then snap the cover back over the ignition switch on the right side.
I found that I had a ProLock system spliced into my starter wire, but decided to leave it out and just install the stock ignition switch harness. I never even new it was there. Anyone want it?
12-15-2005, 01:18 PM
#48
Cheapest/best tool is this website 
Post your problems here (car problems only...)
You can use those OBDII laptop softwares if you want to:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....obdii+software
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....obdii+software
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=216469
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=216469
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....obdii+software
Post your problems here (car problems only...)You can use those OBDII laptop softwares if you want to:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....obdii+software
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....obdii+software
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=216469
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=216469
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....obdii+software
05-11-2006, 08:41 AM
#49
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2
1997 Maxima GLE -- Car not starting...
Guys:
I know this thread is quite old, but I need your help!
My '97 Maxima is not starting up. A couple of days ago, I noticed the car was having startup problem, but then it happened in the past as well and I was able to start it by turning the key all the way and pressing the throttle repeatedly.
Now, i just washed my car, and to my surprise the car is not even cracking when I turn on the ignition key!
The symptom is that there is absolutely no cracking but a 'click' is heard assuming it is total silence in the surroundings.
My inital guess were the following:
(1) Battery problem
(2) Ignition switch malfunction
(3) Starter problem
I jumped started without any success. The battery light, interior and exterior lights turn on fine. So I ruled out the battery problem.
I then followed the instructions to replace the ignition switch. I bought brand new from a local Nissan dealer for $31.75. I put that in but still the same problem.
Now I am quite frustrated and do not have the patience and resources to look at the starter.
My main problem is that I am not able to pin-point the root cause of the problem and since the car cannot be started, I cannot take it to a garage.
Now, I just got AAA membership and will get the car towed!
Looks like a couple of $$$ worth of expense is heading my way!
NOTE: I did get the Alternator and Battery replaced from Sears Auto two years ago. At that point it was too late since my car stopped starting. I got ripped off at Sears Autos especially since I did not know about the NISSAN RECALL for 1997 Maxima Alternator problem.
Oh well, can any one suggest what could be the root cause other than the ignition switch and starter? Could it be a simple fuse that blew off or could it be the 'ignition lock' itself (where the key goes)?
Thanks in advance for your help!
I know this thread is quite old, but I need your help!
My '97 Maxima is not starting up. A couple of days ago, I noticed the car was having startup problem, but then it happened in the past as well and I was able to start it by turning the key all the way and pressing the throttle repeatedly.
Now, i just washed my car, and to my surprise the car is not even cracking when I turn on the ignition key!
The symptom is that there is absolutely no cracking but a 'click' is heard assuming it is total silence in the surroundings.
My inital guess were the following:
(1) Battery problem
(2) Ignition switch malfunction
(3) Starter problem
I jumped started without any success. The battery light, interior and exterior lights turn on fine. So I ruled out the battery problem.
I then followed the instructions to replace the ignition switch. I bought brand new from a local Nissan dealer for $31.75. I put that in but still the same problem.
Now I am quite frustrated and do not have the patience and resources to look at the starter.
My main problem is that I am not able to pin-point the root cause of the problem and since the car cannot be started, I cannot take it to a garage.
Now, I just got AAA membership and will get the car towed!
Looks like a couple of $$$ worth of expense is heading my way!
NOTE: I did get the Alternator and Battery replaced from Sears Auto two years ago. At that point it was too late since my car stopped starting. I got ripped off at Sears Autos especially since I did not know about the NISSAN RECALL for 1997 Maxima Alternator problem.
Oh well, can any one suggest what could be the root cause other than the ignition switch and starter? Could it be a simple fuse that blew off or could it be the 'ignition lock' itself (where the key goes)?
Thanks in advance for your help!
05-11-2006, 08:44 AM
#50
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,207
Problem is probably your starter. I had the same exact thing happen. The click you hear is the starter solenoid. That should push the starter cog out and then it spins and starts your car.
There's a problem in your starter motor. You can check to make sure your positive and negative battery cables have no corrosion but it's likely the starter motor.
I dont have a lot of time but I posted a thread a few days ago about checking your ground. A lot of our cars lose voltage and we leave it alone.
Low voltage kills starters.
There's a problem in your starter motor. You can check to make sure your positive and negative battery cables have no corrosion but it's likely the starter motor.
I dont have a lot of time but I posted a thread a few days ago about checking your ground. A lot of our cars lose voltage and we leave it alone.
Low voltage kills starters.
05-11-2006, 09:42 AM
#51
Originally Posted by netcrackerz
Guys:
I know this thread is quite old, but I need your help!
My '97 Maxima is not starting up. A couple of days ago, I noticed the car was having startup problem, but then it happened in the past as well and I was able to start it by turning the key all the way and pressing the throttle repeatedly.
Now, i just washed my car, and to my surprise the car is not even cracking when I turn on the ignition key!
The symptom is that there is absolutely no cracking but a 'click' is heard assuming it is total silence in the surroundings.
My inital guess were the following:
(1) Battery problem
(2) Ignition switch malfunction
(3) Starter problem
I jumped started without any success. The battery light, interior and exterior lights turn on fine. So I ruled out the battery problem.
I then followed the instructions to replace the ignition switch. I bought brand new from a local Nissan dealer for $31.75. I put that in but still the same problem.
Now I am quite frustrated and do not have the patience and resources to look at the starter.
My main problem is that I am not able to pin-point the root cause of the problem and since the car cannot be started, I cannot take it to a garage.
Now, I just got AAA membership and will get the car towed!
Looks like a couple of $$$ worth of expense is heading my way!
NOTE: I did get the Alternator and Battery replaced from Sears Auto two years ago. At that point it was too late since my car stopped starting. I got ripped off at Sears Autos especially since I did not know about the NISSAN RECALL for 1997 Maxima Alternator problem.
Oh well, can any one suggest what could be the root cause other than the ignition switch and starter? Could it be a simple fuse that blew off or could it be the 'ignition lock' itself (where the key goes)?
Thanks in advance for your help!
I know this thread is quite old, but I need your help!
My '97 Maxima is not starting up. A couple of days ago, I noticed the car was having startup problem, but then it happened in the past as well and I was able to start it by turning the key all the way and pressing the throttle repeatedly.
Now, i just washed my car, and to my surprise the car is not even cracking when I turn on the ignition key!
The symptom is that there is absolutely no cracking but a 'click' is heard assuming it is total silence in the surroundings.
My inital guess were the following:
(1) Battery problem
(2) Ignition switch malfunction
(3) Starter problem
I jumped started without any success. The battery light, interior and exterior lights turn on fine. So I ruled out the battery problem.
I then followed the instructions to replace the ignition switch. I bought brand new from a local Nissan dealer for $31.75. I put that in but still the same problem.
Now I am quite frustrated and do not have the patience and resources to look at the starter.
My main problem is that I am not able to pin-point the root cause of the problem and since the car cannot be started, I cannot take it to a garage.
Now, I just got AAA membership and will get the car towed!
Looks like a couple of $$$ worth of expense is heading my way!
NOTE: I did get the Alternator and Battery replaced from Sears Auto two years ago. At that point it was too late since my car stopped starting. I got ripped off at Sears Autos especially since I did not know about the NISSAN RECALL for 1997 Maxima Alternator problem.
Oh well, can any one suggest what could be the root cause other than the ignition switch and starter? Could it be a simple fuse that blew off or could it be the 'ignition lock' itself (where the key goes)?
Thanks in advance for your help!
06-13-2006, 08:07 PM
#56
for anyone who has done this was this the only symptions of the ign. switch problem. jiggleing the key in the ignition to start it ? did you guys aleast get power to radio and everything else or not?
06-14-2006, 06:45 PM
#58
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 210
Originally Posted by JaTaN
Car is running and then you turn it off. Then you try to start it again right away and it doesnt (you have to wait for a little while for a restart) - that was my prob
Mine started happening sporatically with the engine hot or cold. I just thought at first it was the car getting old. I never waited a little I just kept turning the ignition both ways (From off to on) until it started.
09-23-2006, 07:47 PM
#59
Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 84
Hi
I got my max yesterday. My first max ever
) Very excited.
First off several questions:
My car had all the symptoms of ignition switch problems which are:
Trouble starting (like you have to turn the key harder
several tries to do it
only when you juggle the key it would start
I went to CAP and got a ignition switch (not Nissan one but a "STANDARD" brand." It was 25.99
So tonight I went ahead and unscrewed the panels and I see the old ignition switch. I unscrew 2 little screws and take out the round part. Then I go to disconnect the connectors and thats where the confusion starts. The switch on the car had the regular ignition switch from the round thing to a connecor, But 2 wires didnt go to connector they go somewhere deep down.
Let me explain little better
/ connector is here
O is the round thing O----
\two wires from connector go deep down there.
noone mentioned those 2 wires and how to take them off. i tried to look where they go but could not trace them. And second, if I did take them off I didnt have the wires on the new ignition switch. so I take the new ignition switch and install it
And try to start up the car, first it starts with the first turn. But then I try it again and it does same thing. It still takes few tries to get it started. It feels like it got better though. So its either:
Brand new ignition switch is bad
Or its something else
Can it be the cylidner switch thing?(where the key goes)
The car has brand new starter in August.
Can it be the battery for some reason? Any suggestion fellows? Thank you =)
I got my max yesterday. My first max ever
) Very excited. First off several questions:
My car had all the symptoms of ignition switch problems which are:
Trouble starting (like you have to turn the key harder
several tries to do it
only when you juggle the key it would start
I went to CAP and got a ignition switch (not Nissan one but a "STANDARD" brand." It was 25.99
So tonight I went ahead and unscrewed the panels and I see the old ignition switch. I unscrew 2 little screws and take out the round part. Then I go to disconnect the connectors and thats where the confusion starts. The switch on the car had the regular ignition switch from the round thing to a connecor, But 2 wires didnt go to connector they go somewhere deep down.
Let me explain little better
/ connector is here
O is the round thing O----
\two wires from connector go deep down there.
noone mentioned those 2 wires and how to take them off. i tried to look where they go but could not trace them. And second, if I did take them off I didnt have the wires on the new ignition switch. so I take the new ignition switch and install it
And try to start up the car, first it starts with the first turn. But then I try it again and it does same thing. It still takes few tries to get it started. It feels like it got better though. So its either:
Brand new ignition switch is bad
Or its something else
Can it be the cylidner switch thing?(where the key goes)
The car has brand new starter in August.
Can it be the battery for some reason? Any suggestion fellows? Thank you =)
09-23-2006, 08:37 PM
#60
DanGK:
It's been a while since I changed mine, but I did not remember the two wires you mentioned. It was straight plug and play for me (mine was Nissan).
Now, about the symptoms... my car has that one too (even when I replaced the ignition switch) and it's because of safety switch. This switch is buried within the tranny console, and functions as a detector whether it's safe to start the car based on the gear selection (you could start the car in P or N, but not when the car is in D, R, 1 or 2). So, sometimes even when you put the car in N/P, the switch is so worn out that it reports the selector is not in P/N.
The cost of this safety switch is over 50 dollars if I remember correctly, so I decided to live with it.
This only happens once in a blue moon though... like once every 50 starts or more.
Hope this helps.
It's been a while since I changed mine, but I did not remember the two wires you mentioned. It was straight plug and play for me (mine was Nissan).
Now, about the symptoms... my car has that one too (even when I replaced the ignition switch) and it's because of safety switch. This switch is buried within the tranny console, and functions as a detector whether it's safe to start the car based on the gear selection (you could start the car in P or N, but not when the car is in D, R, 1 or 2). So, sometimes even when you put the car in N/P, the switch is so worn out that it reports the selector is not in P/N.
The cost of this safety switch is over 50 dollars if I remember correctly, so I decided to live with it.
This only happens once in a blue moon though... like once every 50 starts or more.
Hope this helps.
09-23-2006, 09:07 PM
#61
Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 84
Originally Posted by ardika
DanGK:
It's been a while since I changed mine, but I did not remember the two wires you mentioned. It was straight plug and play for me (mine was Nissan).
Now, about the symptoms... my car has that one too (even when I replaced the ignition switch) and it's because of safety switch. This switch is buried within the tranny console, and functions as a detector whether it's safe to start the car based on the gear selection (you could start the car in P or N, but not when the car is in D, R, 1 or 2). So, sometimes even when you put the car in N/P, the switch is so worn out that it reports the selector is not in P/N.
The cost of this safety switch is over 50 dollars if I remember correctly, so I decided to live with it.
This only happens once in a blue moon though... like once every 50 starts or more.
Hope this helps.
It's been a while since I changed mine, but I did not remember the two wires you mentioned. It was straight plug and play for me (mine was Nissan).
Now, about the symptoms... my car has that one too (even when I replaced the ignition switch) and it's because of safety switch. This switch is buried within the tranny console, and functions as a detector whether it's safe to start the car based on the gear selection (you could start the car in P or N, but not when the car is in D, R, 1 or 2). So, sometimes even when you put the car in N/P, the switch is so worn out that it reports the selector is not in P/N.
The cost of this safety switch is over 50 dollars if I remember correctly, so I decided to live with it.
This only happens once in a blue moon though... like once every 50 starts or more.
Hope this helps.
Oh I have a standart by the way
The new ignition switch is normal, 1 round end and 1 plug end. The NISSAN switch that was on the car has 2 wires going deep inside.
Do you know if manual trans. have the neutral safety switch also? Thanks
09-23-2006, 09:13 PM
#62
DanGK:
Yes, the manual has the switch also...but NOT the same as auto (mine).
Go to allnissanparts.net and go to order parts, search for part (mechanical), enter your car info and put "neutral safety switch".
The manual one is much less expensive than auto (I just looked).
Yes, the manual has the switch also...but NOT the same as auto (mine).
Go to allnissanparts.net and go to order parts, search for part (mechanical), enter your car info and put "neutral safety switch".
The manual one is much less expensive than auto (I just looked).
09-24-2006, 05:46 AM
#63
Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 84
Thanks for the tip!
Any other ideas guys? I will test another battery today. The battery might be weak. Can it be the ignitoin cylinder?
Update: Its not the battery. I just jumped the car from another car and on 3rd try it started. Hmm Can it be the ignition cable? or does it sound like neutral safety switch
I turn the key and the car cranks but doesnt start. Sometimes it would ALLLMost start and then die. When it starts it runs flawless though.
Any other ideas guys? I will test another battery today. The battery might be weak. Can it be the ignitoin cylinder?
Update: Its not the battery. I just jumped the car from another car and on 3rd try it started. Hmm Can it be the ignition cable? or does it sound like neutral safety switch
I turn the key and the car cranks but doesnt start. Sometimes it would ALLLMost start and then die. When it starts it runs flawless though.
06-21-2007, 07:45 AM
#66
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 21
Just did mine and car started on first turn. Many thanks!
Couple points. I had to remove the covering over the fuses to reach the 5th and 6th screws of the column(some people mentioned only 4 screws, I def had 6). To unscrew the two switch screws, you need a very short screwdriver for one of the two screws. I resorted to taking a X bit from my drill and doing it like that, I had no screwdriver short enough. Putting back the two covers around the steering column was also a little annoying. There are a lot of wires on the right hand side and I had to make sure they were all tucked through the appropriate opening. Even then, I had bent a couple of the plastic pins from doing it wrong at first so I had to make sure I restraightened them and then it went properly into place.
That's all.
Thanks again!
(front brake pads later today, w00t)
Couple points. I had to remove the covering over the fuses to reach the 5th and 6th screws of the column(some people mentioned only 4 screws, I def had 6). To unscrew the two switch screws, you need a very short screwdriver for one of the two screws. I resorted to taking a X bit from my drill and doing it like that, I had no screwdriver short enough. Putting back the two covers around the steering column was also a little annoying. There are a lot of wires on the right hand side and I had to make sure they were all tucked through the appropriate opening. Even then, I had bent a couple of the plastic pins from doing it wrong at first so I had to make sure I restraightened them and then it went properly into place.
That's all.
Thanks again!
(front brake pads later today, w00t)
06-21-2007, 01:07 PM
#67
Originally Posted by tjg_marantz
Just did mine and car started on first turn. Many thanks!
Couple points. I had to remove the covering over the fuses to reach the 5th and 6th screws of the column(some people mentioned only 4 screws, I def had 6). To unscrew the two switch screws, you need a very short screwdriver for one of the two screws. I resorted to taking a X bit from my drill and doing it like that, I had no screwdriver short enough. Putting back the two covers around the steering column was also a little annoying. There are a lot of wires on the right hand side and I had to make sure they were all tucked through the appropriate opening. Even then, I had bent a couple of the plastic pins from doing it wrong at first so I had to make sure I restraightened them and then it went properly into place.
That's all.
Thanks again!
(front brake pads later today, w00t)
Couple points. I had to remove the covering over the fuses to reach the 5th and 6th screws of the column(some people mentioned only 4 screws, I def had 6). To unscrew the two switch screws, you need a very short screwdriver for one of the two screws. I resorted to taking a X bit from my drill and doing it like that, I had no screwdriver short enough. Putting back the two covers around the steering column was also a little annoying. There are a lot of wires on the right hand side and I had to make sure they were all tucked through the appropriate opening. Even then, I had bent a couple of the plastic pins from doing it wrong at first so I had to make sure I restraightened them and then it went properly into place.
That's all.
Thanks again!
(front brake pads later today, w00t)
08-15-2007, 09:09 PM
#70
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 1
Moderators, I think it would be helpful to throw the instructions on page one, with pictures (shown here) into one thread, lock it, and swap the link in the how-tos from this thread to that one... just a thought
08-31-2009, 05:06 AM
#71
Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 29
I did a search and ran into this thread. I'm havng some type of ignition problems, I thnk. Basically when I'm driving along my radio head, clock, climate controls unit and wipers if on, suddenly turn off while driving. Everything else stays on and car is still driving fine. My solution to getting everything back on is to barely nudge the key backwards toward ACC, but not actually in the ACC position and everthing turns back on. I can actually create the problem also. Instead of moving the key backwards from the ON position while drving, I can nudge the key forward even while I'm drving, as if I were to start the car but not that much forward and the radio/clock/climate controls turn off. What is causing this? Is it the ignition switch? Or something inside the ignition where the key is in?
08-31-2009, 05:48 AM
#72
Talk about epic revivals...
When everything comes back on is your security LED on? I honestly have no idea why it comes on but it when everything dies on me while I'm trying to start/drive the car the security light stays on while I"m driving.
When this happened to me, I checked my battery terminal and it was corroded to holy hell. Cleaned it and I don't have any problems.
And for future reference, Pmohr has made a nice tutorial video on youtube for replacing the iggy switch.
When everything comes back on is your security LED on? I honestly have no idea why it comes on but it when everything dies on me while I'm trying to start/drive the car the security light stays on while I"m driving.
When this happened to me, I checked my battery terminal and it was corroded to holy hell. Cleaned it and I don't have any problems.
And for future reference, Pmohr has made a nice tutorial video on youtube for replacing the iggy switch.
Last edited by aackshun; 08-31-2009 at 05:52 AM.
04-08-2010, 06:34 AM
#74
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 1
Hi all,
I have a 1998 SE Automatic. Last night I started the car and I noticed it took a bit more effort to turn the key to start the car. I took my kids to a movie and upon returning to the car I could not turn the key at all. The wheel is locked, but seems to have a bit more "play" in the wheel than when it's in it's normal locked position. It also seems as if the key is a bit loose in the ignition (key) housing. I tried jiggling the key while manipulating the wheel for close to 20 minutes with no luck. I also tried a different key. Power is fine as all interior and exterior lights work. I do get the beeping sound when the key is in the ignition.
I'm not sure if this is an ignition switch problem or something bigger that may require more work in the column. I have the Haynes manual and that is leaving me with more questions than answers.
Any help would be appreciated.
I have a 1998 SE Automatic. Last night I started the car and I noticed it took a bit more effort to turn the key to start the car. I took my kids to a movie and upon returning to the car I could not turn the key at all. The wheel is locked, but seems to have a bit more "play" in the wheel than when it's in it's normal locked position. It also seems as if the key is a bit loose in the ignition (key) housing. I tried jiggling the key while manipulating the wheel for close to 20 minutes with no luck. I also tried a different key. Power is fine as all interior and exterior lights work. I do get the beeping sound when the key is in the ignition.
I'm not sure if this is an ignition switch problem or something bigger that may require more work in the column. I have the Haynes manual and that is leaving me with more questions than answers.
Any help would be appreciated.
04-24-2010, 10:58 AM
#75
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 1
Hey everyone 1st post but need help. My sons 96 quit yesterday at the gas station and he has been having all these issues described with his car prior. Steering wheel wont unlock, can't mash the button on the shifter and having to wiggle the key. I went to advance and bought the ignition switch assembly for 140.00. instead of just tearing out the old one because it looks rivited to the colum I unhooked the two wires and the nuetral safety cable from the old one and hooked them to the new one. But when I stuck the key in it statered beeping at me and I noticed the security light beeping fast and also the little green light that goes on the key switch is beeping. Anybody have a clue. It's like the security has been set off and I can't reset it. Not even by hooking everything back to the old assembly.
06-03-2012, 05:16 PM
#77
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 4
sure glad this info is here!!!
Maxima forums saves my bacon yet again.
panels needs to be removed in this order.
1. remove largest panel first, left in picture. two screws, top has plastic tabs
2. next is steel panel immediately underneath. two screws. note orientation to assist putting back.
3. finally remove 6 screws. top plastic comes off along with plastic piece surrounding key. note routing of wiring to assist putting back.
4. remove two tiny screws holding switch. lower steering column to assist reaching rear screw. which has very little room.
5. insert new switch and put screws back in and plug in. old plastic attachment will need to be cut off.
6. reassembly in reverse ... fin.
took me about 1.5 hours from beginning to finish.
Maxima forums saves my bacon yet again.
panels needs to be removed in this order.
1. remove largest panel first, left in picture. two screws, top has plastic tabs
2. next is steel panel immediately underneath. two screws. note orientation to assist putting back.
3. finally remove 6 screws. top plastic comes off along with plastic piece surrounding key. note routing of wiring to assist putting back.
4. remove two tiny screws holding switch. lower steering column to assist reaching rear screw. which has very little room.
5. insert new switch and put screws back in and plug in. old plastic attachment will need to be cut off.
6. reassembly in reverse ... fin.
took me about 1.5 hours from beginning to finish.
Last edited by _cy_; 06-03-2012 at 07:43 PM.
06-27-2012, 07:27 PM
#78
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 1
THANK YOU GUYS FOR KEEPING THIS THREAD ALIVE!
I HAVE A 96' MAX THAT I AM FIXING TO DO THE IGNITION SWITCH REPLACEMENT TO..
I JUST GOT STRANDED FOR ABOUT AN HOUR AT THE GAS STATION BEFORE JIGGLING WOULD WORK.
HAVEN'T DRIVEN THE CAR IN ABOUT 3 MONTHS AND IT WAS IDLING A LITTLE FUNNY SO I WENT TO O'RIELLY'S AND GOT SOME SEA FOAM TO RUN THROUGH THE GAS AND CRANKCASE..CAME OUT,THE CAR STARTED FINE WITH A LITTLE WIGGLE. DROVE TO THE STATION DOWN THE STREET AND SHUT HER OFF WHILE I PUTTING THE SEA FOAM IN AND PUMPING SOME GAS..WHEN IT CAME TIME TO JIGGLE SHE WASN'T HAVING ANY PART OF IT...KEPT TRYING EVERY FEW MINUTES UNTIL "BAM" SHE STARTED..DROVE HER DOWN THE INTERSTATE ABOUT 15 MILES AND THE IDLE CLEARED UP...I HAD FORGOTTEN HOW FAST THIS CAR IS!
ANYWAY, I AM GLAD THIS THREAD IS HERE. THANKS!
I JUST GOT STRANDED FOR ABOUT AN HOUR AT THE GAS STATION BEFORE JIGGLING WOULD WORK.
HAVEN'T DRIVEN THE CAR IN ABOUT 3 MONTHS AND IT WAS IDLING A LITTLE FUNNY SO I WENT TO O'RIELLY'S AND GOT SOME SEA FOAM TO RUN THROUGH THE GAS AND CRANKCASE..CAME OUT,THE CAR STARTED FINE WITH A LITTLE WIGGLE. DROVE TO THE STATION DOWN THE STREET AND SHUT HER OFF WHILE I PUTTING THE SEA FOAM IN AND PUMPING SOME GAS..WHEN IT CAME TIME TO JIGGLE SHE WASN'T HAVING ANY PART OF IT...KEPT TRYING EVERY FEW MINUTES UNTIL "BAM" SHE STARTED..DROVE HER DOWN THE INTERSTATE ABOUT 15 MILES AND THE IDLE CLEARED UP...I HAD FORGOTTEN HOW FAST THIS CAR IS!
ANYWAY, I AM GLAD THIS THREAD IS HERE. THANKS!
10-02-2014, 08:40 AM
#79
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 7
Many thanks!
Once again you guys came through for me. Needed to jiggle the key on my 98 GLE and got progressively worse as time passed. The switch did the trick (got an aftermarket intermotor at Auto Zone for 32.00).
Only thing I would add is to be careful when removing the fuse panel as there is a switch attached to it.
Thanks again!
Scott
Only thing I would add is to be careful when removing the fuse panel as there is a switch attached to it.
Thanks again!
Scott
05-17-2015, 06:58 AM
#80
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 1
Nissan Maxima 1996
This is a great feed on changing an ignition switch. I have a 1996 Nissan Maxima and it is very hard to start especially when the weathers warmer. Sometimes it won't start for 5 or 10 minutes, sometimes right away. I have to press the key all the way in an push and turn at same time, maybe it's the angle. This feed was very helpful even though it's from 2005. So I think I'll try to change the electrical part of switch. Thanks for keeping it up.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
shilov
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
13
02-19-2024 09:40 PM
mikeg75
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
12
11-30-2015 05:12 PM