rhonster

My fuel filler pipe is the edition with 2 basic pipes going to the tank. One narrower return line. The EVAP is all separate. I have found a used one in very good condition, BUT, with 2 added smaller lines, about 1/4", come from near the filler opening, which i assume are part of the evap.
QUESTION:
1. Can I shorten the 2 smaller pipe lines and marry them with a U of gas line and not be setting off any ecu codes?
2. Does the main line and vent line to tank line up perfectly and/or is there any variables with the mounting bracket or OD of the pipes?

If anyone knows the answer, definitively, much appreciated. thanks.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

I repaired my gas fill pipe with a splice of fuel safe black hose. So the answer to your question would be yes, but make sure it's fuel safe hose.

rhonster

I'm still not sure that there might be an upper valve for the 2 smaller evap lines which could change the vacuum parameters with the capped line or augment the EVAP readings, in either case throwing an unwanted code and altering the fuel pressure. I have the fuel safe hose, that's not an issue. It's like at the top of the filler pipe, there are 4 pipes, not 2.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Why don't you just remove the assy and repair yours with fuel safe hose?
It easy to do, cost me all of 5 bucks.

rhonster

I have already done that, cost me $1 for used fuel safe hose, HOWEVER, as the fuel safe hose does not hold the wheel well liner to stock spec, I want the actual correct piece, hence the request for a "definitive" answer.

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

Well, the definitive answer would be to order back a new filler tube which should be ~$150.

rhonster

I have a line, from a pull yard, for a very clean entire piece for $5.99. It has the 2 extra lines and joint valve and I question if they can effectively be rendered non-functional without tripping a code. I am also wondering if the main under the car linkage points are exactly the same with the 2 line piece vs the 4line, like if you had read the first post.

A new aftermarket piece on line ranges from $90 to $120 delivered.

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

I did read it but couldn't you just block off the two extra lines with rubber stops for now and test?

rhonster

Yes, the piece would be taken out with the right size fuel safe hose and I would just tie both of the small lines off by looping a piece of hose back from one to the other. I don't know, though, if the top end valve, where those lines begin, has an opening to fresh air and I don't want to go to the trouble of pulling the piece out to find out I can't use it. Also, just eyeballing the piece from under the wreck, I'm not sure it matches up 100% to the tank the way my piece does.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Is it only me that see's the contradiction?

rhonster

I broke down and went to the dealer for a consultation. Nice guy teck, apparently i can seal off the 2 smaller evap lines without throwing a code as the system is sealed with the gas cap with no sub-surface ports, all other aspects of the piece are virtually the same as per installation.

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

Just as I stated...

rhonster

you said "rubber stops", which would be very difficult to find, let alone ones that are gasoline tolerant. My original idea was to use the gas hose that the cars have with this particular EVAP setup and simply loop it back with the clamps available and thereby causing a vacuum. As it turns out, the PullYard i go to rolled in a 98 overnite and it had the exact piece I needed, with no evap extra lines. I dont believe gas resistant rubber stops exist, as you suggested or rather stated. When it comes to safety issue parts, guessing really isn't an option.

caseymaxima

iTrader: (1)

My 2 cents.....When it comes to fuel related items, I would purchase a new piece from the dealer and simply be done with it.......correctly. I would never chance anything like this, $120.00 is cheap.

Zack

rhonster

I got an OEM piece for $5.99 plus tax from a car a year newer than mine and the part exhibits no rust other than a few spots in the bracket areas away from the gas and vent line. Its a pullyard where you pull the piece yourself so the labour costs are washed out. The $120 parts, online, are often refurbished oem parts where they clean them up and spray them paint or a rubber paint blend. Other suppliers make their own as aftermarket. My experience is that used oem parts are often better than new aftermarket parts. I don't really consider the part I am using a 'chancy', even rubber fuel line is secure, it just doesn't hold the well liner in quite as flush as a stock part. Some guys run without the liner, but thats kinda backwoods and not advised if you live where it snows. cheers.