CaptainFill

iTrader: (1)

I ran the OBD-II on the Max and ive got P0325 (knock sensor) and P1335 (crankshaft position sensor (ref)).

I replaced my knock sensor but the code persists even though I reset the codes. Is it possible to short out a knock sensor? I possibly attached the two leads together and/or reversed polarities. Would that kill my knock sensor?

Next is the crank position sensor, is there a way to fix it or is it a replace only? I get bad backfires and VERY hesitant starting,I often need to give it gas.

Thanks

andrei3333

for the KS there is a resistor mod in the stickies, also try cleaning the contacts of the ground wire wit ha wire brush

CaptainFill

iTrader: (1)

I just read the resistor mod and since I just bought a brand new KS id rather try and get that to work. I also examined the grounds and they are lookin good and clean.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

I would try changing the ks wire before doing the resistor mod...You need a new crank sensor if it's shot. Like other sensors...if it's shot its shot.

CaptainFill

iTrader: (1)

The sensor I bought came with a new wire tail. I assume it is ok. Ill look at getting a new crank sensor.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

oh ok if it came with a new wire its fine. Try changing the crank sensor and see if the ks code goes away. It probably won't but you can try.

CaptainFill

iTrader: (1)

The crank code came after I took out the injector, cleaned it and put it back in. That somehow caused backfiring and hesitant starts, something just got thrown out of whack. I dont know how the crank sensor went bad, if theres a way to reset it it may fiix itself.

Does anybody know where the sensor is?

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

It's on the front of the trannsmission bellhousing, clean the grounds klocated on the IM first and replace that injector, are you having hard starts? hard starts from that fuel injector problem can trip the crank sensor. Code doesn't always mean replace sensor. Do you have an ohm-meter to test the cps?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

There's crank POS and REF, one is directly under the crank pulley, and the other is mounted to the block right where the block and bellhousing meet next to the front motor mount.

BTW, if you have hesitant starts, backfiring, and you otherwise have a slow startup, the ECU can throw a CPS code because it's reading position from the pulley at a speed far below what it considers to be possible. I found that out when I was researching my own problem, which turned out to be the CPS not...plugged in all the way.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

oh snap, yeah wrong one.....

CaptainFill

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys, it is the REF. Out of the sheer possibility that I lost a sensor right after I messed with the injector I think the sensor is fine... but just got tripped out of whack.

I do have an ohm meter... is there a guide out there to determine what levels it should be at?

So the REF CPS is in the front next to the front motor mount?

If I unplug the CPS, try to start, plug in and restart will that jack something up of might it knock some sense into it?

Just a bit more info... i idle at 760rpm.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Nope, that's the cam sensor, the ref cps is located directly under the front crank pulley, you'll need to go underneath to see it. Download the fsm off of phatg20.net and go to the page 338 section EC

CaptainFill

iTrader: (1)

As an update the problem was the CSPS was caked with crease and gunk reducing its magnets efficiency to pick up what it needs to. Its all good now, starts well and no misfires just by a simple cleaning that took 10 minutes.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Cool, props on the follow-up also, that's ****ing awesome!

sergofast

iTrader: (22)

Ive been having simular problems with my CPS aswell and before when I asked no one seamed to know what to do. I also am having problems starting sometimes and will have to turn the car over twice before it starts but when i turn the key a second time it always fires right up. The car runs fine idles normal but still this p1336 code. But mine is the POS not the REF sensor.

I have replaced the sensor and checked all of the wires just as the FSM said to do and all was good. The only thing left to do is to replace the timing ring on the flywheel...but i dont really see how that could go bad unless something physically hit it. Im getting ready to do a tranny swap and figured i would replace this ring but im almost positive this isnt what is throughing the code.

Can any of you point me in the right direction. what else could it be?